DIGEST 8 | JNA March/April 2023 Coloured gemstones (Picture courtesy of Gübelin) 彩色宝石（图片来源：古柏林） Serpenti jewellery by Bulgari 宝格丽的Serpenti系列珠宝 Bulgari’s famed Serpenti icon is celebrating its 75th anniversary this year. The icon of endless metamorphosis, Serpenti slithered its way into the brand’s lexicon in 1948 as jewellery watches that wrapped around the wrist. Over the decades, it has interpreted the spirit of every age, becoming a symbol of female empowerment from generation to generation – from the figurative jewels with Gold jewellery demand fell 3 per cent year-on-year in 2022, due largely to steep declines in the Chinese market that was weakened by Covid disruptions, said the World Gold Council. But despite the 15 per cent decline in Chinese demand throughout the year, strong rises in gold prices in key markets as well as robust sales during India’s festive season brought demand close to pre-Covid levels. Sizable gains were also observed in the UAE, Saudi Arabia, Turkiye, Vietnam, Thailand, Indonesia and Australia, among others. Gübelin Gem Lab has launched Gemtelligence, an AI-powered system that uses machine learning to determine the origin of emeralds, rubies and sapphires. It can also detect heat treatments in rubies and sapphires. The system ensures consistency and precision in the analysis of coloured gemstones, said the lab, which is celebrating its 100th anniversary in 2023. rubies, emeralds or diamonds for eyes in the 1950s to the sleek ultramodern Serpenti Viper silhouette of today. 今年，宝格丽著名标志Serpenti将庆祝其75周年。作为无尽 蜕变的标志，Serpenti于1948年以缠绕在手腕上的珠宝腕表 问世，进入品牌辞典。几十年来，它诠释了每个时代的精神， 成为一代又一代女性赋权的象征——从1950年代用红宝石、 祖母绿或钻石做眼睛的具象珠宝，到今天的超现代Serpenti Viper剪影。 世界黄金协会表示，2022年的黄金珠宝需求同比下降了 3%，主要是由于受疫情影响的中国市场的急剧下滑。虽然 中国的需求在全年下跌了15%，但是主要市场的金价强劲 上涨，加上印度节日期间的销情畅旺，使需求接近疫情之 前的水平。阿联酋、沙特阿拉伯、土耳其、越南、泰国、印度 尼西亚和澳大利亚等国也出现了可观的增长。 古柏林宝石鉴定所推出了Gemtelligence，这是一个由AI驱 动的系统，运用机器学习来确定祖母绿、红宝石和蓝宝石 的产地，还能识别红宝石和蓝宝石的热处理。该系统确保了 彩色宝石分析的一致性和精确性，鉴定所称。古柏林将在 2023年庆祝其成立100周年。 AI 75 3%
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