市场情报 JNA March/April 2023 | 55 Chen Weiyang, founder of Erdong Jewellery 耳东珠宝创始人陈唯阳 Grace Tang, founder and art director of Grace Tang Fine Jewelry Grace Tang高级珠宝创始人兼艺术总监Grace Tang Pan Yuhang, founder of Pans Jewelry 璞安珠宝创始人潘昱行 China is witnessing the unprecedented rise of a new consumption habit that favours designs and products reflecting Chinese cultural traditions. Colloquially known as “Guochao,” which translates to “national wave,” this trend is soaring in popularity among younger consumers. Guochao’s ascent was driven primarily by Chinese celebrities who started wearing clothes incorporating Chinese cultural elements with modern design concepts. Inspired by their idols, fans quickly followed suit, and the trend soon pervaded major consumption categories, including the jewellery segment. A whitepaper on China’s cultural consumption market in 2020/2021 published in 2022 by the Brand Building and Cultural Innovation Department of the National Gems & Jewelry Testing Co Ltd said Guochao’s fame is proof that traditional culture is now becoming trendy. The report also revealed that there are about 260 million Generation Zs in China who grew up in an era of rapid technological advancement and in generally affluent households. They also receive ample attention from family members, being an only child. They are also more prone to seeking recognition online. Given such an upbringing, Gen Zs are mostly complacent and exhibit distinctive personalities and strong self-esteem. They focus more on experiences and are eager to get recognised. This demographic is also becoming a leading force in China’s economy and future. Aesthetic design The designer’s voice is palpable in Guochao-inspired jewellery designs, said Pan Yuhang of Pans Jewelry. According to him, the so-called national wave comes in two phases. Stage one is when a certain concept has been widely disseminated and can be recognised by most people. This is accompanied by identifiers such as colours and emblems – dragons, cherry blossoms, cowboy hats, to name a few. “We can immediately associate these with specific countries. This can quickly lead to a wave of trends and become fashionable,” revealed Pan. “Stage two, meanwhile, requires a deeper understanding of the culture, which is more abstract and may not be easily recognisable at a glance.” The designer said his most recent collection focuses on combining shapes of humans with mountains and rocks to express the intangible connection between man and nature. This type of design strongly resonates with Chinese buyers even though it may not be suitable for export to countries that have no affinity with Chinese culture. Jewellery is an indispensable treasure in the history of Chinese art, remarked Grace Tang, founder and art director of Grace Tang Fine Jewelry. She said, “The design, material selection, craftsmanship and techniques are all colourful chapters that can be admired, but it is a pity that many ancient techniques have already been lost.” Tang’s jewellery pieces take cues from traditional Chinese art but also feature modern style elements to symbolise a link between the past and the present. It is also akin to an “artistic dialogue” that travels through time and space, she added. “Guochao is a comprehensive manifestation of national confidence and creative strength,” the jeweller said. “In recent years, Guochao, as an intellectual property (IP), has been operating prosperously in various market segments.” According toTang, young people gravitate towards luxury Guochao jewellery that are lighter in weight, affordable and easy to match with clothes. Jewellery collectors, meanwhile, have at their disposal a variety of choices, depending on the level of artistry and craftsmanship.
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