焦点 JNA March/April 2023 | 21 Jewel of Africa is involved in a variety of charitable programmes, including a skills development initiative in cutting and polishing gems for underprivileged refugees with the United Nations High Commissioner for Refugees (UNHCR). Mina Stones Founder Lotanna Amina Okpukpara added, “By providing technical, financial and social inclusion support, we are helping miners and their communities receive equitable value for their resources and this is at the core of our sourcing process.” Harsh realities For the vast majority in the industry though, the incentive to buy cheap gems will always be strong, perpetuating a system of getting the lowest price at all costs and doing little or nothing to improve conditions throughout their supply chain. This traps people in poverty when communities are selling out of desperation. Responsible sourcing is not a silver bullet. Marcena Hunter, senior analyst with Geneva-based NGO Global Initiative, said, “On the mining side, one has to look beyond the legality of the operation to whether it translates into local development gains. On the flip side, the few artisanal mining-focused initiatives that exist in the industry are benefitting a limited group of people. It is a very small portion of the market and will not move the needle in the larger scheme of things.” Insistence on traceability can sometimes push miners out of the supply chain due to lack of education and access to technological tools, empowering criminal actors, she added. Another challenge the industry faces is dealing with countries where, for many, undervaluation of goods at the time of export or smuggling of rough gemstones has become the norm. Responsible merchants looking to import gems at fair values and via legitimate channels find themselves at a disadvantage. Independent geologist and mining consultant Zoe Harimalala Tsiverisoa, who is based in Madagascar, said, “Clients do not do due diligence regarding the items they buy, so sellers do not care about doing things properly. Responsible sourcing is possible and being carried out by select partnerships in the region.” Seasoned gem merchant Guy Clutterbuck who has spent considerable time living and working alongside miners and merchants in Afghanistan, Brazil, Asia and Africa, encourages the gemstone sector to learn from the wine industry, which incorporates the story of the vineyard and the terroir of the host region in its narratives. For wines, this detailed level of storytelling is not considered marketing but an essential element to continuously attaining a higher value, he noted. “With an ever-shrinking world, customers will increasingly want to know not only the geographic origin of their gemstone but the entire story related to its journey from mine to market. Responsible sourcing is no longer a choice but a necessity,” Clutterbuck said. At some level, it seems as if responsible players in the industry are working within their silos. The large-scale mining companies and their auction partners are in one bucket, and members of the RJC and other associations have their own ecosystems. Dotting the rest of the landscape are niche mineto-market projects created by gem merchants, manufacturers and retailers that support a responsible story for their customers. Sixteen years ago, barring one or two exceptions, none of these existed. Border restrictions during the pandemic and higher travel costs have increased the industry’s dependence on reliable channels for responsible sourcing. Those pondering their next move can reflect on Villegas’ words, “There are many paths to positive social impact. Find out what countries your supply is coming from, then the specific region, and try to start there. Responsibility begins with your own supply chain.” Agricultural project at Gemfields’ Kagem emerald mine in Zambia Gemfields在赞比亚卡棋穆祖母绿矿的农业项目 Rough emerald grading at Gemfields’ Kagem emerald mine in Zambia Gemfields公司在赞比亚卡棋穆祖母绿矿 进行祖母绿原石分级 Emerald sorting at Belmontmine inBrazil 巴西Belmont矿的祖母绿分拣工作
RkJQdWJsaXNoZXIy NjAxOTU=