FOCUS 10 | JNA March/April 2023 GemFair’s land reclamation project in Sierra Leone. Picture courtesy of GemFair.JPG GemFair在塞拉利昂的土地再利用项目。图片由GemFair.JPG提供 ESG and sustainability have become a hot topic in the gem and jewellery world, spawning a plethora of initiatives, seminars and articles on the subject. Amid growing concern on the state of the environment, the jewellery sector is under pressure to not only behave ethically but to prove ROI for sustainability initiatives. Environmental, Social and Governance (ESG) is a strategic framework that measures how businesses integrate these pillars in their operations and business model. It is part of a much larger umbrella of sustainability. “Many people are surprised to learn that sustainability is not just about the environment. It includes global economic justice, human rights, labour relations and corporate social responsibility,” explained Barbara Wheat, executive director of Ethical Metalsmiths (EM). This ranges from a company’s carbon footprint, commitment to sustainability, transparency, and workplace culture to inclusion and diversity matters. It is an overall ethos that has been increasingly important in the gem and jewellery industry. Socially conscious consumers Today’s consumers are far more conscious of the ramifications of their purchase, holding brands responsible for progressing the world’s state of sustainability. Consumers shopping for high-end jewellery and watches are increasingly favouring brands that act responsibly, value diversity, and have a compelling and credible brand presence both online and offline. According to Feriel Zerouki, senior vice president for Corporate Affairs of De Beers Group, this macrotrend is only set to gather pace as it is being led by the younger generations who have a deep concern for social issues and who exhibit stronger preferences for sustainably sourced products. Iris van der Veken, executive director of Watch and Jewellery Initiative 2030, added “We live in the era of transparency. The new consumer and the evolving regulations on transparency reporting will accelerate this movement. Millennials and Gen Z consumers now look first for a brand that they identify with, that they like, and that 珠宝行业的环境、社会和治理 ESG in the jewellery trade The rise of conscious consumerism is putting Environmental, Social and Governance (ESG) matters into sharp focus. Despite continuing challenges of compliance and effectiveness, ESG initiatives in the gem and jewellery industry are gaining ground, thanks to industry bodies and corporate commitment. 有意识的消费主义的兴起使环境、社 会和治理(ESG)事项成为焦点。尽管在合规性和有效性方面持续存在挑战，但是鉴于行业机构和企 业的承诺，宝石和珠宝行业的ESG倡议正在取得进展。 | Isabella Yan |
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