MARCH/APRIL 2023 ISSUE #438 US$15 in the jewellery trade 40 market-shaking stories from JNA 40篇震撼市场的报导 珠宝行业的 环境、社会和治理 ESG Guochao: Tradition meets modernity 国潮—传统文化与现代美学的结合
CONTENTS Issue #438 | MARCH/APRIL 2023 18 Responsible sourcing in the coloured gemstone business 彩色宝石行业的负责任采购 8 DIGEST 市场指标 8 Gübelin Gem Lab launches AI system for coloured gemstone analysis 古柏林宝石鉴定所推出AI驱动的 彩色宝石分析平台 25 PERSPECTIVE 精辟视野 25 RJC’s responsibility in the ESG dialogue RJC于环境、社会和治理范畴的 责任与承诺 10 FOCUS 焦点 10 ESG in the jewellery trade 珠宝行业的环境、社会和治理
30 JNA 40th ANNIVERSARY SPECIAL JNA 40周年专题报道 30 JGW celebrates four decades with Extraordinary 40 programme 环球盛事 | 九月香港珠宝首饰展览会 在庆祝四十周年之际向40名成就斐然的 业界翘楚致敬 On the Cover 封面 Zambian emerald and diamond ring; fancy intense brownish-yellow diamond ring with Burmese rubies; fancy intense yellow and white diamond ring; and pinkish-red 'Cherry Blossom' Burmese ruby and diamond ring from Picchiotti's XpandableTM Collection 赞比亚祖母绿配钻石戒指；浓彩棕黄色钻戒镶配了缅甸红宝石；浓彩黄钻与白钻戒 指；以及Picchiotti's XpandableTM系列的粉红调“Cherry Blossom”缅甸红宝石钻戒 Digital version 电子版： https://news.jewellerynet.com/en/publications 44 A captivating confluence of art and jewellery 艺术与珠宝浑然一体 34 40 market-shaking stories reported by JNA 《JNA亚洲珠宝》40篇震撼市场的报导 48 MARKET INTELLIGENCE 市场情报 48 Post-pandemic Thailand retains edge in jewellery trade 疫后泰国珠宝业维持优势 53 FURA Gems spurs growth of coloured gemstone sector FURA Gems带动彩宝业蓬勃发展 54 Guochao: Tradition meets modernity 国潮——传统文化与现代美学的邂逅 40 DESIGN 设计 40 Sparkling symbiosis 璀璨耀眼 蕴含意义
Every care has been taken to ensure the accuracy of the information in JNA. However, the publication of such information is at the sole discretion of the publisher. The publisher and the editorial team shall not be held responsible or in any way held liable for any errors, omissions or inaccuracies in this publication, or for any consequences arising therefrom. The contents of this publication are protected by copyright and cannot be reproduced, photocopied, transmitted or posted in any form without the prior written consent of the publisher. 本公司已尽力确保《JNA亚洲珠宝》所刊登的内容正确无误。如因错漏而引致任何损失，本公司概不负责。本公司保留刊登有关资料的一切权利。版权所有，如未获得本公司事先之书面允许，不 得以任何方式翻印、仿制或转载本刊物任何部份之文字或图片。 Printed by Asia One Printing Limited,13/F, Asia One Tower, 8 Fung Yip Street, Chai Wan, Hong Kong. 印刷商: 宏亚印务有限公司香港柴湾丰业街8号宏亚大厦13楼 Associate Publisher & Editor-in-Chief Olivia Quiniquini 副出版人及主编 程爱莉 EDITORIAL 编辑部 Deputy Editor Bernardette Sto. Domingo 副编辑 杜明高 Assistant Digital Product Manager William Yick 助理数码产品经理 易昌耀 ADVERTISING 广告部 Assistant Director Christine Sinn 区域营业总监 冼蕙珠 Digital & Sales Manager Ken Chan 数码业务及销售经理 陈赞健 MARKETING 市場推广部 Senior Marketing & Communications Manager Ronny Pang 高级市场及传讯经理 彭秋影 Marketing & Communications Executive Vincent Wong 市场及传讯主任 黄志伟 PRODUCTION 制作部 Production Manager Jennifer So 制作部经理 苏丽娟 Senior Designer Eva Kam 高级设计师 甘铭灵 Assistant Exhibition and Media Service Manager Bonnie Law 助理展览和媒体服务经理 罗凤伦 ADVERTISING REPRESENTATIVES 广告代理 China 中国: 广州代表处胡淑晶 | Tel 电话: (86) 20 8666 0158 Email 电邮: [email protected] Germany 德国: Liz Dobelmann | Tel 电话: (49) 721 384 1881 Email 电邮: [email protected] Italy 意大利: Mauro Arati | Tel 电话: (39) 02048517853 Email 电邮: [email protected] Japan 日本: Nobuaki Nito | Tel 电话: (81) 3 52961020 Email 电邮: [email protected] Taiwan 台湾: Rita Hung | Tel 电话: (886) 2 2738 3898 Email 电邮: [email protected] Thailand 泰国: Anna Vichvech | Tel 电话: (66) 2 036 0500 Email 电邮: [email protected] US 美国: Bonnie Chan | Tel 电话: (1) 347 906 4693 Email 电邮: [email protected] President & CEO - Asia Margaret Ma Connolly 亚洲主席及行政总裁 马颖 Senior Vice President - Asia David Bondi 亚洲高级副总裁 庞大为 Director of Jewellery Fairs Celine Lau 珠宝展览部总监 刘小雯 Published by Informa Markets 出版 1701-1705, China Resources Building, 26 Harbour Road, Wanchai, Hong Kong 香港湾仔港湾道26号华润大厦1701-1705室 Email 电邮: [email protected] JewelleryNet.com
DIGEST 8 | JNA March/April 2023 Coloured gemstones (Picture courtesy of Gübelin) 彩色宝石（图片来源：古柏林） Serpenti jewellery by Bulgari 宝格丽的Serpenti系列珠宝 Bulgari’s famed Serpenti icon is celebrating its 75th anniversary this year. The icon of endless metamorphosis, Serpenti slithered its way into the brand’s lexicon in 1948 as jewellery watches that wrapped around the wrist. Over the decades, it has interpreted the spirit of every age, becoming a symbol of female empowerment from generation to generation – from the figurative jewels with Gold jewellery demand fell 3 per cent year-on-year in 2022, due largely to steep declines in the Chinese market that was weakened by Covid disruptions, said the World Gold Council. But despite the 15 per cent decline in Chinese demand throughout the year, strong rises in gold prices in key markets as well as robust sales during India’s festive season brought demand close to pre-Covid levels. Sizable gains were also observed in the UAE, Saudi Arabia, Turkiye, Vietnam, Thailand, Indonesia and Australia, among others. Gübelin Gem Lab has launched Gemtelligence, an AI-powered system that uses machine learning to determine the origin of emeralds, rubies and sapphires. It can also detect heat treatments in rubies and sapphires. The system ensures consistency and precision in the analysis of coloured gemstones, said the lab, which is celebrating its 100th anniversary in 2023. rubies, emeralds or diamonds for eyes in the 1950s to the sleek ultramodern Serpenti Viper silhouette of today. 今年，宝格丽著名标志Serpenti将庆祝其75周年。作为无尽 蜕变的标志，Serpenti于1948年以缠绕在手腕上的珠宝腕表 问世，进入品牌辞典。几十年来，它诠释了每个时代的精神， 成为一代又一代女性赋权的象征——从1950年代用红宝石、 祖母绿或钻石做眼睛的具象珠宝，到今天的超现代Serpenti Viper剪影。 世界黄金协会表示，2022年的黄金珠宝需求同比下降了 3%，主要是由于受疫情影响的中国市场的急剧下滑。虽然 中国的需求在全年下跌了15%，但是主要市场的金价强劲 上涨，加上印度节日期间的销情畅旺，使需求接近疫情之 前的水平。阿联酋、沙特阿拉伯、土耳其、越南、泰国、印度 尼西亚和澳大利亚等国也出现了可观的增长。 古柏林宝石鉴定所推出了Gemtelligence，这是一个由AI驱 动的系统，运用机器学习来确定祖母绿、红宝石和蓝宝石 的产地，还能识别红宝石和蓝宝石的热处理。该系统确保了 彩色宝石分析的一致性和精确性，鉴定所称。古柏林将在 2023年庆祝其成立100周年。 AI 75 3%
市场指标 JNA March/April 2023 | 9 Online Trade Updates 新闻快讯 KGK expands production in Thailand KGK在泰国扩大生产力 JTR launches donation drive for Earthquake Support Campaign JTR呼吁各界捐助地震救援工作 Diamond finance initiative from Sarine, Delgatto Sarine及 Delgatto联手推出独特 钻石融资方案 KGK Group is building a second jewellery manufacturing facility in Thailand, which will triple its production capacity and employ an additional 600 skilled workers. KGK集团正在泰国建造第二所珠宝制造设施，使 生产力达到目前的三倍，并增聘600名熟手技工。 The Turkish Jewellery Exporters’ Association (JTR) is appealing for donations for emergency relief efforts following the 7.8 magnitude earthquake that hit Turkiye and Syria on February 6. 土耳其和叙利亚于2月6日发生7.8级强烈地震及 多次余震，震央位于土耳其卡赫拉曼马拉什地区。 土耳其珠宝出口商协会(JTR)因此发起一项慈善 捐助活动，以支持当地的紧急救援工作。 Sarine Technologies Ltd and Delgatto Diamond Finance Fund are partnering on an innovative service that uses mapping technology to evaluate rough diamonds to be used as collateral. Sarine Technologies Ltd与Delgatto Diamond Finance Fund (DDFF)推出一项创新服务，利用测 绘技术评估毛坯钻石，以便在融资过程中将其用 作抵押。 Our digital platform provides additional content for an even more comprehensive industry perspective. Scan the QR code for the full story and more trade news. 我们的数字平台载有更多更全面的 行业视角报道，请扫瞄二维码查看 全文和更多行业信息。 news.jewellerynet.com/en/jnanews Expected decline in silver jewellery demand this year as consumption stabilises in key markets after the pandemic, according to the Silver Institute. Demand in India is likely to ease back to regular levels after hitting a record high in 2022, while sales in the US are forecast to dip due to economic concerns and normalised travel spend. Prices of fancy colour diamonds across all colours and sizes rose 3.9 per cent in 2022, led by the strong performance of yellow diamonds, data from the Fancy Color Research Foundation showed. The Fancy Color Diamond Index (FsCDI), which tracks pricing data for fancy yellow, pink, and blue diamonds, showed a 4.6 per cent rise in all yellow diamond categories, followed by an increase of 3.9 per cent and 1.8 per cent in pinks and blues, respectively. 据白银协会称，随着主要市场的消费在疫情之后趋于稳定，预计今年的 银饰需求将下降。印度的需求在2022年创下历史新高后，可能会放缓到 常规水平，而美国的销售估计将由于对经济的担忧和旅游消费正常化而 下滑。 彩钻研究基金会(FCRF)透露，在黄钻表现强劲的牵头下，所有颜色和尺 寸的彩钻价格在2022年平均上升了3.9%。彩钻价格指数(FsCDI)追踪及 记录黄钻、粉红钻和蓝钻的价格数据，显示所有黄钻种类的价格上涨 4.6%，其次是粉红钻和蓝钻，分别上涨3.9%和1.8% 10% 3.9%
FOCUS 10 | JNA March/April 2023 GemFair’s land reclamation project in Sierra Leone. Picture courtesy of GemFair.JPG GemFair在塞拉利昂的土地再利用项目。图片由GemFair.JPG提供 ESG and sustainability have become a hot topic in the gem and jewellery world, spawning a plethora of initiatives, seminars and articles on the subject. Amid growing concern on the state of the environment, the jewellery sector is under pressure to not only behave ethically but to prove ROI for sustainability initiatives. Environmental, Social and Governance (ESG) is a strategic framework that measures how businesses integrate these pillars in their operations and business model. It is part of a much larger umbrella of sustainability. “Many people are surprised to learn that sustainability is not just about the environment. It includes global economic justice, human rights, labour relations and corporate social responsibility,” explained Barbara Wheat, executive director of Ethical Metalsmiths (EM). This ranges from a company’s carbon footprint, commitment to sustainability, transparency, and workplace culture to inclusion and diversity matters. It is an overall ethos that has been increasingly important in the gem and jewellery industry. Socially conscious consumers Today’s consumers are far more conscious of the ramifications of their purchase, holding brands responsible for progressing the world’s state of sustainability. Consumers shopping for high-end jewellery and watches are increasingly favouring brands that act responsibly, value diversity, and have a compelling and credible brand presence both online and offline. According to Feriel Zerouki, senior vice president for Corporate Affairs of De Beers Group, this macrotrend is only set to gather pace as it is being led by the younger generations who have a deep concern for social issues and who exhibit stronger preferences for sustainably sourced products. Iris van der Veken, executive director of Watch and Jewellery Initiative 2030, added “We live in the era of transparency. The new consumer and the evolving regulations on transparency reporting will accelerate this movement. Millennials and Gen Z consumers now look first for a brand that they identify with, that they like, and that 珠宝行业的环境、社会和治理 ESG in the jewellery trade The rise of conscious consumerism is putting Environmental, Social and Governance (ESG) matters into sharp focus. Despite continuing challenges of compliance and effectiveness, ESG initiatives in the gem and jewellery industry are gaining ground, thanks to industry bodies and corporate commitment. 有意识的消费主义的兴起使环境、社 会和治理(ESG)事项成为焦点。尽管在合规性和有效性方面持续存在挑战，但是鉴于行业机构和企 业的承诺，宝石和珠宝行业的ESG倡议正在取得进展。 | Isabella Yan |
焦点 JNA March/April 2023 | 11 Iris van der Veken, executive director of Watch and Jewellery Initiative 2030 钟表与珠宝2030倡议执行董事Iris van der Veken they want to wear. This younger consumer is looking for purpose and authenticity. In practice, this means companies have to act and to show measurable progress over time in all aspects of sustainability. Accessible, comparable, transparent data is key.” Zerouki reported that in a recent De Beers Group research, 36 per cent of women and 39 per cent of Gen Z now specifically seek information on a brand’s ethical credentials when buying diamond jewellery. “Furthermore, 40 per cent of women overall said that knowing about the positive impact of diamonds on local communities would make them more likely to buy diamonds, while this proportion went up to 50 per cent for Gen Z consumers. This highlights a real opportunity for diamond brands to capture value differentiation by connecting clients to their diamond’s provenance and its positive impact,” she said. Industry action Luxury companies and associations are leading by example to inspire and promote their ESG goals to the wider jewellery community. Geneva-based Watch and Jewellery Initiative 2030, founded by Kering and Cartier, is guided by the UN Global Compact’s Ten Principles and 17 Sustainable Development Goals. It aims to bring together watches and jewellery brands across the globe to begin a collective journey towards a low-carbon future and ensure the industry creates positive outcomes for the planet and for people along the value chain. Launched in October 2021, its members include illustrious brands like Gucci, Pomellato, Qeelin, Cartier, Chanel Watches & Jewellery, Boucheron, Swarovski, Rosy Blue and Dimexon, to name a few. The initiative focuses on three thematic priorities – building climate resilience, preserving resources and fostering inclusiveness. Transparent measurement and disclosure of sustainability performance is now deemed to be an essential part of effective business practices and a necessity for maintaining trust in business. The Watch and Jewellery Initiative collaborated with ESG Book, a global leader in sustainability data, research and technology to launch a focused workstream that includes large brands, manufacturers and suppliers to develop a solution on reporting based on international best practices. “Next step is piloting the framework and, depending on the learnings, we will explore how to scale up this solution. We are also working on a special education journey for SMEs in collaboration with United Nations Global Compact as we believe it is critical to bring everyone on the journey of sustainability,” Van der Veken revealed. De Beers Group is invested in the future by ensuring all the diamonds it discovers create a positive impact for people and the localities where they are found. “We have an immense responsibility to support our host countries and communities not just through employment, local procurement and tax payments but also by fostering wider socioeconomic development that supports sustainable, thriving communities and economies. We also understand that we have a unique opportunity as an industry leader to support enhanced ESG practices within the sector more broadly,” said Zerouki. De Beers’ ESG strategy, called ‘Building Forever,’ consists of four key pillars, namely leading ethical practices, protecting the natural world, supporting thriving communities and accelerating equal opportunity. As a result of the desire of consumers to know more about the origin of their diamond, De Beers has rapidly accelerated its industry blockchain traceability programme TracrTM to underpin consumer trust and aims for full traceability by 2030. It also pledges to help support the formalisation of the artisanal diamond mining sector. We have an immense responsibility to support our host countries and communities not just through employment, local procurement and tax payments but also by fostering wider socioeconomic development that supports sustainable, thriving communities and economies. – Feriel Zerouki, senior vice president for Corporate Affairs, De Beers Group
FOCUS 12 | JNA March/April 2023 Zerouki said, “While we do not operate in this sector directly, it is an important source of global diamond supply and an even more important source of livelihood for millions of people, often in some of the poorest parts of the world. We want to help foster the sector’s development as a legitimate and trusted source of supply and will do this through the continued expansion of our dedicated GemFair artisanal and small-scale diamond mining (ASM) programme, currently operating in Sierra Leone.” GemFair aims to help formalise the ASM sector. EM, founded in 2004, is a community of buyers, suppliers and emerging and established jewellery designers who are committed to fostering transparent, responsible and environmentally sound practices for all facets of the gem and jewellery industry. Through education, connection and action, EM’s mission is to inspire responsible jewellery practices. “EM members are mainly smaller business entities such as bench jewellers and artisans who share the organisation’s vision of creating a jewellery industry where a beautiful product does not bear a human or environmental toll,” said Wheat. While they may not have the ESG challenges as larger companies, EM members may have an advantage since implementing sustainable business practices is easier to adopt and track as a small-business owner, she added. EM recently launched an innovative jewellery recycling and community mining project, Radical Jewelry Makeover (RJM), an initiative developed to raise awareness of the connection between mining, metalsmithing, activism, collaboration and art. Christina T. Miller Consulting and its team of professional consultants have been pioneers in this space since 2004. “We focus on the distinct activities brands can do to improve their own impacts. We are aiming for change, not protection from the cost of the issues,” said award-winning sustainable jewellery consultant Christina Miller who works with clients to address the environmental and social impacts of their business, as well as to consider how business practices (governance) should be changed to help meet goals in those areas. “We go beyond helping our clients meet industry standards and certifications to making sure that the foundational ethical framework that they apply to their business translates through their sourcing and other business decisions,” she added. “We are realistic about the tensions between the cost of implementing ethical frameworks and the potential impact to shareholder profits, but we chose to focus on changing practices and on businesses that are committed.” Fairmined options The mining of gold is increasingly under scrutiny for its association with human rights abuses, and mercury pollution. With the Russia-Ukraine war, jewellers are also under pressure to distance themselves from gold and diamonds coming from Russia. We live in the era of transparency. The new consumer and the evolving regulations on transparency reporting will accelerate this movement… In practice, this means companies have to act and to show measurable progress over time in all aspects of sustainability. Accessible, comparable, transparent data is key. – Iris van der Veken, executive director, Watch and Jewellery Initiative 2030 Jewellery by Dana Bronfman Dana Bronfman的珠宝
焦点 JNA March/April 2023 | 13 Conflicting assertions about the positive impact of recycled gold has also been denounced since much of the illegally mined gold is being laundered as recycled gold and subsequently enters the supply chain. This has prompted a shift towards Fairmined gold, a label that certifies gold from empowered, responsible artisanal and small-scale mining organisations. Wheat shared, “Some jewellers who are EM members offer a choice to clients and let them choose. The cost of Fairmined is sometimes prohibitive for the client, but by providing information about Fairmined, they are able to influence consumer choices.” Increasingly, jewellers and independent designers are seeing value in collaborating with mining communities that are committed to ethical and sustainable practices. They are ever more aware of where their raw materials come from and demand full transparency. Polly Wales, Pippa Small, Ming Lampson, Dana Bronfman, and Saskia Shutt are among the brands that have chosen to use certified metals extracted by miners working on a small scale. Miller commented, “Fortunately, we are seeing progress in gold mining. The Initiative for Responsible Mining Assurance (IRMA) for industrial-scale operations and the Fairmined Standard for artisanal and small-scale mines have helped gain more insight into what the ground conditions are and where improvement still needs to be done. By encouraging jewellers to purchase from artisanal and small-scale miners with certifications like Fairmined and Fairtrade, jewellery businesses can support miners and verify their gold is responsibly produced. However, this does not mean zero negative impact.” Prevailing challenges As the narrative surrounding global climate change continues to mount and consumers increasingly want to align their purchases with their values, brands are responding by making sustainability commitments, setting climate goals and vowing to minimise their environmental impact. However, as consumer interest continues to grow so has the act of greenwashing, which Miller defines as the practice of advertising or misleading consumers into believing a product is more sustainable than it is or making environmental claims that cannot be substantiated. “There is a lack of consensus on the definitions of commonly used marketing terms and a lack of data around how to measure and compare the GHG emissions of recycled gold versus newly mined gold, or the carbon impacts of lab-grown diamonds versus newly mined diamonds. Environmental claims are being made that are challenging to substantiate," she explained. The best way to combat greenwashing is for the general public to ask the right questions. “If a company makes a public claim, they should be able to provide proof of that claim and answer questions that may arise from that claim. If your questions are met with vague answers, marketing jargon or no answer at all, that should raise suspicion of greenwashing,” Miller said. Tackling greenwashing is also one of the topics EM addresses on a regular basis. “Members share information via our member forum, which helps them to recognise greenwashing and avoid making product claims or statements that are misleading, unsubstantiated and even false, as is found in the market today," said Wheat. Noting that trust is based on responsible actions, Van der Veken said companies need data transparency with detailed precision along the entire value chain to understand their operations better. “Our aim is to shape a credible ESG framework based on international best practice. Our first kick off workstream has started and we will report on our progress accordingly. Getting accurate, quality ESG data is a must. This is a process that takes time and will take a lot of education throughout the supply chain,” she disclosed. Gemmologist and veteran gem explorer Yianni Melas strongly believes in giving back to the communities through education. His goal is to work with groups that focus on education versus ethical certification. GemFair sold its first parcels of ethically sourced, traceable ASM diamonds via De Beers Group Auctions in October 2021. Picture courtesy of GemFair.JPG 2021年10月，GemFair通过戴 比尔斯集团拍卖会出售了第一批道德来源的、可追踪的ASM钻石。 图片由GemFair.JPG提供 36 Percentage of women who specifically seek information on a brand’s ethical credentials when buying diamond jewellery, according to research by De Beers Group. 据戴比尔斯集团最近的一项研究结果显示，36%的女性在 购买钻石首饰时，尤其关注有关品牌的道德证明信息。
FOCUS 14 | JNA March/April 2023 ESG和可持续发展已经成为宝石和珠宝世界的热门 话题，催生了大量有关倡议、研讨会和文章。在对环 境状况日益关注的情况下，珠宝业面临压力，不仅要 有道德地行事，而且要证明可持续发展举措的投资回报率。 环境、社会和治理(ESG)是一个战略框架，衡量企业如何 将这些支柱纳入其运营和商业模式中。它是更大的可持续 性架构的一部分。 “许多人惊讶地发现，可持续发展不光是环境问题, 它 还包括全球经济正义、人权、劳工关系和企业社会责任，”道 德金工(EM)的执行董事Barbara Wheat解释说。这包含从公 司的碳足迹、对可持续发展的承诺、透明度、工作场所文化 到包容性和多样化事项。这是一种在宝石和珠宝行业日益 重要的整体精神。 具有社会意识的消费者 如今的消费者对他们购买行为的影响力有更多的意识， 他们要求品牌对世界的可持续发展状况负责。购买高端珠 宝和手表的消费者越来越青睐那些负责任的、重视多样性 的、在线上和线下都有令人信服的品牌形象的品牌。据戴比 尔斯集团负责企业事务的高级副总裁Feriel Zerouki称，这一 大趋势只会加快步伐，因为它是由一群对社会问题有深切 关注的年轻人领导的，这一代对可持续来源的产品表现出 更强 钟烈 表的 与偏 珠好 宝。2030倡议的执行董事Iris van der Veken补充 说：“我们生活在透明的时代。新的消费者和不断变化的透 明度报告法规将加速这一运动。如今，千禧一代和Z世代的 消费者首先物色一个他们认同、喜欢、想穿戴的品牌。这些 年轻的消费者正在寻找目标和真实性。在实践中，这意味着 公司必须采取行动，并在可持续发展的所有方面显示可衡 量的进展。可获取的、可比较的、透明的数据是关键。” Zerouki报告说，在戴比尔斯集团最近的一项研究中，目 前36%的女性和39%的Z世代在购买钻石首饰时尤其关注有 关品牌的道德证明信息。她说：“此外，40%的女性表示，了解 钻石对当地社区的积极影响，会使她们更有可能购买钻石， 而Z世代消费者的这一比例更高达50%。这凸显了钻石品牌 获取价值差异的真正机会——通过将客户与他们的钻石出 处及其积极影响联系起来。” 行业行动 奢侈品公司和协会正以身作则，激励并向更广泛的珠宝 界推广其ESG目标。 总部设在日内瓦的钟表与珠宝2030倡议由开云集团和 卡地亚创立，以《联合国全球契约》的10大原则和17个可持 续发展目标为指导。它的目的是将全球的钟表和珠宝品牌 聚集在一起，开始一个面向低碳未来的集体旅程，确保该 行业为地球和价值链上的人们创造积极的成果。它于2021 年10月推出，其成员包括杰出的品牌，如Gucci、Pomellato、 Qeelin、Cartier、Chanel Watches & Jewellery、Boucheron 、 Swarovski、Rosy Blue、Dimexon等等。该倡议重点关注三个 主题优先事项——建立应对气候变化能力、保护资源和促进 包容 如性 今。 ，透明地衡量和披露可持续发展绩效,已被视为有效 商业践行的一个重要部分，也是维持商业信任的必要条件。 钟表与珠宝2030倡议与可持续发展数据、研究和技术方 面的全球领导者ESG Book合作，启动了一个包括大型品牌、 制造商和供应商在内的重点工作流程，以制定基于国际最 佳践行的报告解决方案。“下一步是对该框架进行试点，根 据调查结果，我们将探索如何扩大这一解决方案的规模。我 He said, “Traceability does not give back to the source. Education does. Anyone giving back or participating in projects that give back in education related to the gem and jewellery industry is helping with sincere ‘giving back’ beneficiation. Our industry should focus on setting up education for self-sustaining ecosystems of everything related to jewellery at the mines. This includes education for cutting gems, designing, casting and manufacturing and especially gem setting.” Diversity and inclusivity are also becoming significant on the ESG agenda, as businesses strive to reflect their customers and communities. There has been a host of new associations, initiatives, platforms and programmes to address women’s work and BIPOC (Black, Indigenous and People of Colour) members in the jewellery industry. These range fromgoverning bodies likeCIBJO (TheWorld Jewellery Confederation), Women’s Jewelry Association (WJA) and Diversity Action Council (DAC) to independent initiatives launched by designers such as the Bijules Incubator, Black in Jewelry Coalition and Tiffany Atrium and retailers like Greenwich St. Jewelers and MatchesFashion who are paving the way by working with designers from diverse backgrounds and running programmes that focus on mentorship and education. Many of these platforms offer a transparent voice and open conversation about the challenges of navigating through the industry. 40 Percentage of women who said that knowing about the positive impact of diamonds on local communities would make them more likely to buy diamonds, according to research by De Beers Group. 据戴比尔斯集团最近的一项研 究结果显示，40%女性若了解钻石对当地社区的积极影响，会 使她们更有可能购买钻石。 Sphene and pink sapphire ring in Fairmined ecological gold from Saskia Shutt 使用Saskia Shutt的Fairmined生态金的榍石和粉色刚 玉戒指
焦点 JNA March/April 2023 | 15 们还在与《联合国全球契约》合作，为中小企业开展特别的 教育之旅，因为我们认为将每个人带入可持续发展的旅程 是至关重要的。”Van der Veken透露。 戴比尔斯集团正投资未来，确保其发现的所有钻石为人 民和钻石发掘地创造积极的影响。 “对于支持我们的东道国和社区，我们有巨大的责 任，不仅是通过就业、当地采购和纳税，而且还通过促进 更广泛的社会经济发展，支持可持续的、繁荣的社区和经 济。”Zerouki说：“我们也明白，身为行业领导者，我们有一个 独特的机会，在行业内更广泛地加强ESG实践。” 戴比尔斯的环境、社会和治理战略称为“建设永恒” (Building Forever)，包括四个关键支柱，即领导道德践行、保 护自然世界、支持繁荣的社区和加速机会平等。 由于消费者希望更深入了解其钻石的来源，戴比尔斯已 经迅速加快了其行业区块链可追溯性计划Tracr™，以巩固消 费者的信任，并争取在2030年实现完全可追溯性。它还承诺 支持手工钻石开采群体的正规化。Zerouki说：“虽然我们不 直接在这个群体经营，但它是全球钻石供应的一个重要来 源，也是数百万人更重要的生计来源，这些人往往生活在世 界一些最贫穷的地区。我们希望促进该行业的发展，使其成 为合法和可信赖的供应来源，并将通过继续扩大我们专门 的GemFair手工和小规模钻石开采(ASM)计划来实现这一目 标，该计划目前在塞拉利昂运作。”GemFair旨在协助ASM群 体的正规化。 EM成立于2004年，是一个由买家、供应商, 以及新晋和成 熟的珠宝设计师组成的社区，他们致力为宝石和珠宝行业的 所有方面培养人才，实行透明、负责任和环保的作业方法。通 过教育、联系和行动，EM的使命是激发负责任的珠宝实践。 “EM的成员主要是小型企业实体，如珠宝镶嵌师和工 匠，他们与本组织的愿景一致，即是让珠宝业在创造美丽产 品的同时,不会损害人类或环境，”Wheat说。她补充道，他们 可能没有大公司那样须面临ESG挑战，对EM成员也许是一 个优势，因为作为制造商和小企业东主，可持续的商业践行 更容易被采纳和跟踪。EM最近推出了一个创新的珠宝回收 和社区采矿项目——激进珠宝改造(RJM)，这一举措是为了 提高人们对采矿、金工、行动主义、合作和艺术之间联系的 认识 自。 2004年以来，Christina T. Miller咨询公司及其专业顾 问团队一直是这一领域的先锋。“我们专注于品牌可以推行 的独特活动，以改善他们自己的影响力。我们的目标是改 变，而不是避免问题所涉及的成本”，屡获殊荣的可持续珠 宝顾问Christina T. Miller说，她与客户一起解决其业务对环 境和社会的影响，并考虑应如何改变商业践行(治理)以帮助 实现这些领域的目标。 “我们不但帮助客户达到行业标准和认证，还确保他们 应用于业务的基本道德框架中,并通过他们的采购和其他业 务决策加以体现。”她补充道：“我们对实施道德框架的成本 和对股东利润的潜在影响之间的紧张关系持现实态度，但我 们选择把重点放在改变做法，以及那些有决心的企业上。” Fairmined（公平开采）选项 因为与侵犯人权和汞污染有关，黄金开采日益受到关 注。随着俄乌战争的爆发，珠宝商们也面临着与来自俄罗斯 的黄金和钻石保持距离的压力。 此外，关于回收黄金的积极影响的矛盾说法也被谴责， 因为许多非法开采的黄金被洗白，成为回收黄金进入供应 De Beers Group’s GemFair programme aims to advance the artisanal and small-scale diamond mining (ASM) sector. Picture courtesy of GemFair.JPG 戴比尔斯集团的GemFair计划旨在推动 手工和小规模钻石开采(ASM)行业。图片由GemFair.JPG提供 Jewellery by Dana Bronfman Dana Bronfman的珠宝
FOCUS 16 | JNA March/April 2023 About the author 笔者简介 Isabella Yan is a British gemmologist and independent journalist specialising in fine gems and jewellery. Based in Thailand, she is the creator of Art Meets Jewellery, an online publication that looks at the world of jewellery and gems through the eyes of an artist. In 2021, she launched the Women’s Series that aims to celebrate and amplify women’s voices in all facets and levels of the industry. Isabella Yan 是英国宝石学家和独立记者，专责研究高级宝石与珠宝，同时亦是泰国Art Meets Jewellery 的创办 人。 Art Meets Jewellery 在网上出版，以艺术家的眼光审视各种珠宝和宝石。 Isabella 在2021 年推出了“女性系列”，旨在宣扬与扩 大女性在行业中不同范畴的声音。 链。这促使人们转向使用Fairmined(公平开采)的黄金，此种 标签证明黄金来自赋权的、负责任的手工和小规模采矿组 织。Wheat分享道：“一些EM成员珠宝商向客户提供选项，并 让他们选择。Fairmined的成本有时让顾客望而却步，但通过 提供有关Fairmined的信息，他们可以影响消费者的选择。” 越来越多的珠宝商和独立设计师看到了与致力于道德 和可持续做法的采矿社区合作的价值。他们越发意识到他 们的原材料来自哪里，并要求完全透明。Polly Wales、Pippa Small、Ming Lampson、Dana Bronfman、Saskia Shutt等品牌 都选择使用由小规模矿工开采的认证金属。 Mi l l e r评论说：“幸运的是，我们正在看到黄金开采 方面的进展。针对工业规模运营的‘负责任采矿保证倡 议’(IRMA)和针对手工和小规模矿山的‘Fairmined标准’，有 助于更深入地了解实地状况和仍需改善的地方。通过鼓励 珠宝商从获得Fairmined(公平开采)和Fairtrade(公平贸易)等 认证的手工和小规模矿工那里购买，珠宝企业可以支持矿 工，并核实他们的黄金是负责任地出产的。然而，这并不意 味着消极影响为零”。 普遍存在的挑战 随着围绕全球气候变化的说法不断增多，消费者渐渐希 望他们的购买行为与价值观相符，品牌正在通过做出可持 续发展的承诺、设定气候目标和承诺将其对环境的影响降 到最低来作出回应。然而，随着消费者的关注不断上升，漂 绿行径因此有增无减，Miller将其定义为：宣称或误导消费 者，使其相信产品比实际情况更可持续，或做出无法证实的 环境“ 声对 明于常。 用营销术语的定义缺乏共识，对于如何衡量和 比较回收黄金与新开采黄金的温室气体排放，或实验室培 育钻石与新的矿产钻石的碳影响缺乏数据。宣称正在开展 的环保工作很难得到证实。”她解释说。 应对漂绿行径的最好方法是让公众提出正确的问题。 “如果一家公司公开宣称，他们应该能够提供所宣称内容 的证据，并回答可能产生的问题。”Miller说：“如果你的问题 得到的是模糊的回答、营销术语，或者根本没有答案，这应 该引起对漂绿行径的质疑。” 解决漂绿问题也是EM定期处理的议题之一。“会员通过 我们的会员论坛分享信息，这有助他们识别漂绿行径，避免 像今天市场上出现的那样，做出误导性的、没有证据的甚至 是虚假的产品声明或陈述。” Van der Veken指出，信任是基于负责任的行动，公司需 要在整个价值链上有详细精确的数据透明度，以清晰地了 解他们的运作。“我们的目标是在国际最佳实践的基础上塑 造一个可信的ESG框架。我们首次启动的工作流程已经开 始，我们将相应地报告进展。获得准确、优质的ESG数据是必 须的。这是一个需要时间的过程，需要在整个供应链中进行 大量的教育。”她透露道。 重大进展 宝石学家和资深宝石探险家Yianni Melas坚信要通过教 育来回馈社会。他的目标是与专注于教育与道德认证的团 体合作。他说：“可追溯性并不能回馈源头，但是教育可以。 任何回馈或参与与宝石和珠宝行业相关的教育回馈项目， 都有助于真诚的‘回馈’选矿。我们的行业应该专注在矿区 建立所有与珠宝有关的自我维持的生态系统的教育。这包 括切割宝石、设计、铸造和制造，特别是宝石镶嵌的教育。” 因为企业努力反映他们的客户和社区的情况，多样化 和包容性也正在成为ESG议程上的重要内容，有许多新的 协会、倡议、平台和方案面向珠宝业中的妇女工作和BIPOC (黑人、原住民和有色人种)成员。这些机构包括CIBJO、妇 女珠宝协会(WJA)和多元化行动委员会(DAC)等管理机 构，以及Bijules Incubator、Black in Jewelry Coalition和 Tiffany Atrium等设计师发起的独立倡议，还有Greenwich St. Jewelers和MatchesFashion等零售商，他们通过与来自 不同背景的设计师合作并开展注重指导和教育的项目来铺 路。其中许多平台提供透明观点和公开对话，讲述在本行业 中运作的挑战。 Photo credit 图片来源：GemFair.JPG
FOCUS 18 | JNA March/April 2023 What does responsible sourcing of gemstones entail? Does it start and stop at the integrity of the gem material? Is there room for the realities of underdeveloped economies? Some believe the industry uses culture and poverty as an excuse to justify the lack of responsible behaviour. But if everything is brushed under the culture carpet, how will matters ever improve? Others bristle at the mere mention of a mining company. Learning from the past is vital for future growth and improvement. But is using a historical reference in a modern context responsible? The foundation of responsible sourcing must be the integrity of the gemstone. This entails using accurate language to describe the stone, and full disclosure of enhancements or treatments done to improve its appearance. Supporting the industry in this first layer of the responsibility cake are organisations such as CIBJO (The World Jewellery Confederation), which has published guidelines known as Blue Books for Coloured Gemstones and for Responsible Sourcing. The gemstone book details nomenclature for description of stones and disclosure of treatments and provides vital information to aid responsible behaviour. In the Responsible Sourcing Blue Book, CIBJO clarifies that The Responsible Sourcing Policy is guidance for responsible business practices and supply chain due diligence: It is not a system to address traceability of precious metals or gem materials to a mine source and cannot be described or interpreted as a chain of custody. The US Federal Trade Commission (FTC) has published Green Guides, which provide detailed information related to responsible behaviour. The Jewelers Vigilance Committee (JVC) has created an all-in-one resource book: “Understanding the FTC Guidelines.” Unlike CIBJO, FTC is empowered by law to punish offenders. | Richa Goyal Sikri | Provenance Proof Marketplace As consumer scrutiny of jewellery’s impact on people and the planet intensifies, JNA explores how miners, dealers and jewellers alike are working towards sustainable supply chains and greater transparency and accountability in the sector. 随着消费者日渐关注珠 宝对人类和地球的影响，《JNA亚洲珠宝》探讨采矿企业、经销 商和珠宝商如何向可持续供应链方向努力，并实现更高行业 透明度和责任感。 彩色宝石行业的负责任采购 Responsible sourcing in the coloured gemstone business
焦点 JNA March/April 2023 | 19 The next layer in the responsibility cake is certification and endorsement. Here, membership in trade bodies such as the American Gem Trade Association (AGTA), CIBJO, the International Colored Gemstone Association (ICA) and the Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC) can help. For a standalone entrepreneur, comprehensive guideline documents, audits and membership-based organisations can be daunting. To address this, the Coloured Gemstone Working Group (CGWG) created The Gems & Jewellery Platform in 2021. This is a digital space where anyone can access free resources and capacity-building tools to learn about responsible behaviour and implement best practices within their business. CGWG was created in 2015 by Tiffany & Co, Swarovski, Richemont, LVMH, Kering and Gemfields. The Muzo Companies joined in 2017, Chopard in 2019 and Audemars Piguet in 2022. Pioneers While many initiatives are recent and still developing, certain individuals and organisations have been at the forefront of responsible supply chains for decades. Columbia Gem House wrote its company protocols regarding responsible sourcing 21 years ago after working on a project in Madagascar for the World Bank related to poverty alleviation via gemstones. When company founder Eric Braunwart ruined one of his Ferragamo shoes stepping into an open sewer in Antananarivo, he realised his one shoe cost more than the average annual income in Madagascar at the time. “That is when we started looking at how our decisions could bring more benefits to the cutters and the miners. Supportive supply chain best describes what we do, whether working directly with a miner or an agent, to better understand the conditions under which a gem was extracted. Tracing gemstones means nothing unless you are willing to act on issues if you see them come up,” Braunwart remarked. Emerald miner Belmont was also ahead of its time, spearheading sophisticated mining initiatives for over four decades. On top of other measures to reduce emissions, it will start operating its own 1.5MW photovoltaic power plant this year, allowing its mine to run on renewable solar energy. The company aims to achieve net-zero emissions in the near future. Belmont President Marcelo Ribeiro said, “Although our industry has been talking about sustainability and traceability for many years, it is very conservative and different markets are in different levels of maturity regarding this subject. This is a theme that is just gaining relevance.” Gemfields, meanwhile, is the only gem mining company to regularly publish detailed auction results, bringing muchneeded transparency to the rough gemstone sector. To magnify their charitable work in Africa, it established the Gemfields Foundation in January 2021 and, that July, introduced ‘G-Factor for natural resources,’ a measure for calculating the percentage of a nation’s natural resource wealth that is shared with the host government, which they voluntarily publish. According to CEO Sean Gilbertson, Gemfields believes that gemstone resources belong to and are the birthright of the host nation’s citizens. The miner sees itself as the temporary custodian with a duty to deliver the maximum benefit from those resources – monetarily, socially, developmentally and environmentally. “If one avoids shortcuts, be it in the approach to health and safety, environmental best practice or full compliance with mining laws, then it is always going to be more expensive. Our approach has inevitably ruffled the feathers of parties who have benefitted historically from the ‘grey areas’ afforded by what has in the past been a complex and ‘opaque’ industry. There remains a strong financial incentive to buy cheap gems from spurious sources, and often the mine of origin is not known,” shared Gilbertson, adding that Gemfields is keen to instil in the industry a “mine-of-origin” model rather than the prevailing “country-of-origin.” Tech solutions Technology and digital marketplaces also facilitate responsible sourcing. The Emerald Paternity Test by Provenance Proof provides a foolproof mine-to-market chain of custody. Launched in 2017 with Gemfields and Belmont, the process involves immersing rough emeralds at the mine of origin in a solution containing nanoparticles, which get embedded in the natural fissures of a rough emerald, surviving the cutting and polishing process that Water project by Fura Gems Fura Gems的水利项目
FOCUS 20 | JNA March/April 2023 sapphires is an attractive feature for many buyers. Most Montana sapphires require heat treatment but, for some, the lower risk in comparison to buying from Africa where it is more challenging to trace the stones to the mine and extraction circumstances, outweigh the unusual pale-green and blue-green colours of the Montana production. Another venture in the West offering responsibly mined, traceable rubies and pink sapphires is Greenland Ruby. Like rubies from Mong Hsu in Burma, almost all of Greenland's production is heated with borax. Some would immediately label them as glass-filled but there is a technical difference between “heated with borax” and “glass-filled” rubies, as the company explains on its website. “I recently saw top-quality 6mm red ruby beads from Longido, Tanzania,” explained gem merchant Jeffrey Bergman SGC SSEF. “They were unheated and cost US$20 per bead, which would have been US$200 if they were from Greenland.” The morale of the story is that stones traceable to a responsible source, combined with a good dollop of sales and marketing will fetch a premium, irrespective of their unconventional colour and treatment. Looking east, Fuli Gemstones offers responsibly mined peridot from the foothills of China’s Changbai mountains. Established in 2015, the vertically integrated company currently supplies peridots from its bulk-sampling operations. Once full-scale mining starts, it aims to become a dominant player for peridot. Fuli has already begun to reshape the demand landscape for peridot, aggressively marketing itself as a responsible mine. Community impact Other mine-to-market initiatives include Moyo Gems, which offers retailers and jewellery manufacturers the opportunity to source directly from small-scale mining communities in East Africa. Virtu Gems is an online source connecting miners and cutters in Africa to the industry and consumer-at-large. Cristina Villegas, director, Sustainable Markets for the NGO PACT said, "It is important to clarify that gemstone suppliers do not have to create a fancy responsible sourcing programme. They should understand their sources, choose one thing to work on with a mining community then document, commit, grow, and communicate to customers." Gem Legacy, founded by US-based merchant Roger Dery, works at a grassroots level to provide basic tools to informal and small-scale mining communities and supports schools and skills development in East Africa. Nigeria-focused Mina Stones and Zambia-based Jewel of Africa actively support the gemstone community in their respective countries. “Most artisanal miners have traditionally been villagers discovering gemoutcrops while on hunts after the harvesting season is over and before the planting season begins,” revealed Jewel of Africa Co-Founder Rashmi Sharma. “We are committed to ensuring that the communities we work with benefit from our purchases and that our activities comply with laws and regulations.” transforms the rough into a facetted gem. This is supported by a digital ledger or Provenance Proof blockchain. Once set and sold in a jewel, customers can bring the jewel for testing to check the mine of origin. But whether technology translates into responsible sourcing depends on the behaviour of the stakeholders involved and the integrity of the information provided. Provenance Proof Director Klemens Link said, “Our latest venture is the Provenance Proof Marketplace, which gives the gem industry access to buy transparently traded gems. We believe provable transparency and traceability empowers trust. It is also important for us that the artisanal mining sector is not excluded.” To that end, many initiatives by Provenance Proof remain free-of-charge. This year, it will be adding more third-party verified information on stakeholders and on asset level, for instance, through gemmological laboratories, auditing organisations, non-governmental organisations (NGOs) or government authorities. Mining operations Fura Gems, which operates large-scale emerald, ruby and sapphire mines in Colombia, Mozambique and Australia, has fast-tracked growth by taking over prevailing mining operations and deposits. Its Australian mine is already an RJC member, and Fura has registered with RJC with the aim of completing certification for the group and all its other operating sites by the end of 2023. Montana in the US has emerged as a key source for responsibly mined sapphires, courtesy of Potentate Mining, which owns around 90 per cent of the most prolific deposit in the Rock Creek region. Due to strict environmental regulation and higher costs of a first-world economy, Potentate runs a lean operation and has undertaken several conservation initiatives such as using recycled water to process production and, despite the 3,300 acres at their disposal, not disturbing more than five acres at a time without rehabilitation of the land. Potentate's offering of traceable, responsibly mined Donna Hourani x Gemfields earrings 耳环
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