JNA July/ August 2023

创新科技 JNA July/August 2023 | 47 | Olivia Quiniquini 程爱莉 | The new platinum electroforming bath developed by Pino Aliprandini opens up new design, manufacturing and pricing possibilities for platinum jewellery. 栢莱开发的新型铂金电铸浴,造就了铂金首饰设计、制造和定价上的崭新可能性。 Pino Aliprandini (HK) Ltd has developed a new platinum electroforming bath that is set to revolutionise platinum jewellery production. Since electroforming yields hollow pieces, at least 100 microns are required to protect jewellery from damage. The new solution enables a thickness of up to 150 microns without any brittleness, quite a feat considering that previous attempts at platinum electroforming could only achieve optimal thickness of 5 to 10 microns, noted the company’s managing director Sam Chong. This breakthrough – the product of over five years of research and development – allows jewellery manufacturers to produce lighter pieces, introduce more styles such as bigger and chunkier looks, create jewellery with smoother surfaces and save on material costs. Solid jewellery pieces such as charms and beads that would have weighed 12 grams can now be produced with just 1.2 to 1.5 grams of platinum, according to Chong. The engaging designs and competitive prices of electroformed platinum jewellery will also attract more consumers to the category, he continued. New possibilities According to Chong, the platinum electroforming bath is likely to cost around twice the market price of platinum as it consists of a Pino-developed platinum complex combined with its proprietary formulation. “This is ideal for jewellery retailers and chains with their own production facilities as they can create the pieces and sell these directly to their customers in all their stores,” he said. Chong already counts some major Hong Kongheadquartered retail chains among his clients for this product and is eyeing similar companies in China and India. He also welcomes manufacturers seeking to develop their platinum business and create new styles like lighter wedding bands and fashionable platinum pieces. Now that it has perfected its electroforming bath for platinum, Pino is working hard to bring to market its next gamechanger – solutions for gem-set platinum jewellery, which are likely to launch by year-end. 栢莱化工有限公司推出了全新的铂金电铸浴产品, 彻底提升铂金首饰的生产工序。 由于电铸产品呈空心状态,因此铸层至少需 要100微米厚才能妥善保护首饰表面。该公司董事总经理庄 龙三指出,全新电铸液可制作厚度达150微米的成品,完全解 决表面脆裂的问题。鉴于昔日的铂金电镀只能实现5至10微 米的厚度,这可说是一项技术突破。 这项突破——是超过五年的研发成果,使珠宝制造商能 够生产更轻盈的首饰,同时推出更大型的设计,也能令珠宝 表面更光滑并节省物料成本。庄龙三指出,现在只需1.2到1.5 克铂金,就可以生产以往重达12克的首饰部件,如吊饰和珠 子等。他补充说,电铸铂金首饰款式迷人,而且价格具竞争 力,也将吸引更多消费者购买。 开拓源源商机 据庄龙三所称,这款铂金电铸液采用栢莱自家开发的铂 化合物及其专利配方制成,因此成本有可能是铂金市场普遍 价格的两倍左右。他说:“对于拥有自家生产设施的珠宝零售 商和连锁店来说,这是一个理想的选择,因为他们有能力制 作珠宝,并直接销售给所有门店的顾客。” 一些总部位于香港地区的大型零售连锁店,已被他列入 该产品的客户群,他同时正在物色中国内地和印度的同类型 公司。他也欢迎一些寻求发展铂金业务和开发新款式的制造 商加入客户群,例如是计划生产更轻盈的婚戒和时尚铂金首 饰的公司。 随着铂金电铸液技术得以完善,栢莱正致力将针对宝石 铂金首饰的新品推出市场,并有可能在年底前面世。 栢莱在铂金电铸技术上取得突破 PINO achieves breakthrough in PLATINUM ELECTROFORMING

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