JULY/AUGUST 2023 ISSUE #440 US$15 ASEAN’s glittering potential 东盟的闪亮潜力 Rebuilding momentum in China 中国重塑发展势头 Meet the “Extraordinary 40” “非凡40”菁英 (Part 2 第二部分)
CONTENTS Issue #440 | JULY/AUGUST 2023 16 Glowing opportunities in ASEAN jewellery industry 东盟珠宝业蓬勃发展的机遇 9DIGEST 市场指标 9 GIA makes inroads in sustainability goals GIA在可持续发展目标方面取得进展 24 DESIGN 设计 24 New era of sophistication 散发知性美的珠宝新时代 10 FOCUS 焦点 10 Emerging realities influencing China's jewellery sector 新现状影响中国珠宝业
47 INNOVATION 创新科技 47 Pino achieves breakthrough in platinum electroforming 栢莱在铂金电铸技术上取得突破 44 PERSPECTIVE 精辟视野 44 IGDA: Growing the market for LGDs 拓展实验室培育钻石市场 29 JNA 40th ANNIVERSARY SPECIAL JNA 40周年专题报道 29 Meet the "Extraordinary 40" “非凡40”菁英 30 Ahmed Bin Sulayem: Engineering Dubai’s next-level growth 迪拜发展进程的重要推手 31 Cao Thi Ngoc Dung: Business versatility in the jewellery sector 成就遍及珠宝业各领域 32 Yoram Dvash: Making history in the diamond trade 写下钻石行业辉煌历史 33 Raphael Gübelin: Building a legacy of traceability and transparency 可追溯性及透明度之传承 34 Emil Güzeliş: Producing a brilliant future for Türkiye 为土耳其创建闪亮未来 35 Richard W. Hughes: Sharing the passion for gemmology 分享对宝石学的热爱 36 Johannes Keilmann: The virtuoso of international gem fairs 国际宝石展会翘楚 37 Dong Liusheng: Blazing a trail in China’s diamond market 开创中国钻石市场 38 Lawrence Ma: At the forefront of Hong Kong’s diamond regime 站在香港钻石制度的前沿 39 Paolo Passuello: Showcasing “Made in Italy” jewellery 展现意大利珠宝的优势 40 Clement Sabbagh: Creating new growth horizons in gem trade 为宝石业创建发展新领域 41 Prida Tiasuwan: Inspiring vision-driven leadership 高瞻远瞩的领导者 42 Robert Wan: Staunchest advocate of Tahitian pearls 热心推广大溪地珍珠 43 Stephen Webster: Revolutionising the art of jewellery design 珠宝设计艺术的革新者 On the Cover 封面 Fine jewellery in white gold from the Amalfi Collection of German fine jeweller Stenzhorn. The diamond-studded pieces take inspiration from the sights, smells and sounds of the picturesque Amalfi coast in Italy. Shaped like tree leaves, the mesmerising array of diamonds in the jewellery pieces bring to mind a journey along winding coastal roads where hidden azure bays and colourful villages lay. 这些白金首饰来自德国高级珠宝品牌Stenzhorn的Amalfi系列。意大利阿马尔菲海 岸秀丽的风景丶迷人的香气及声音，成为了珠宝设计的灵感泉源。这系列的首饰呈 现优雅的叶片形状，并缀以闪烁瑰丽的钻石，让人想起沿着蜿蜒曲折的海岸出游， 探索蔚蓝海湾及色彩缤纷的小村庄。 Digital version 电子版： https://news.jewellerynet.com/en/publications 48 MARKET INTELLIGENCE 市场情报 48 HK jewellery manufacturers: Exploring new trends and possibilities 香港地区珠宝制造商： 探索新趋势和机遇 53 Ushering in a new era of sapphires 迈进蓝宝石的新时代 54 Market takes a greater shine to fine coloured gems 优质彩宝热度飙升 58 JGW returns to Hong Kong JGW重返中国香港举行 60 JGAB: Reviving market appetite for refined gems and jewellery 恢复对优质宝石和珠宝的市场需求
Every care has been taken to ensure the accuracy of the information in JNA. However, the publication of such information is at the sole discretion of the publisher. The publisher and the editorial team shall not be held responsible or in any way held liable for any errors, omissions or inaccuracies in this publication, or for any consequences arising therefrom. The contents of this publication are protected by copyright and cannot be reproduced, photocopied, transmitted or posted in any form without the prior written consent of the publisher. 本得公以司任已何尽方力式确翻保印《、J仿N制A亚或洲转珠载宝本》刊所物刊任登何的部内份容之正文确字无或误图。片如。因错漏而引致任何损失，本公司概不负责。本公司保留刊登有关资料的一切权利。版权所有，如未获得本公司事先之书面允许，不 Printed by Asia One Printing Limited,13/F, Asia One Tower, 8 Fung Yip Street, Chai Wan, Hong Kong. 印刷商: 宏亚印务有限公司香港柴湾丰业街8号宏亚大厦13楼 Associate Publisher & Editor-in-Chief Olivia Quiniquini 副出版人及主编 程爱莉 EDITORIAL 编辑部 Deputy Editor Bernardette Sto. Domingo 副编辑 杜明高 Assistant Editor Sharon Kwok 助理編輯 郭芷雯 Assistant Digital Product Manager William Yick 助理数码产品经理 易昌耀 ADVERTISING 广告部 Assistant Director Christine Sinn 区域营业总监 冼蕙珠 Digital & Sales Manager Ken Chan 数码业务及销售经理 陈赞健 MARKETING 市場推广部 Senior Marketing & Communications Manager Ronny Pang 高级市场及传讯经理 彭秋影 Assistant Marketing & Communications Manager Monica Kwok 市場及傳訊助理經理 郭君寧 Marketing & Communications Executive Vincent Wong 市场及传讯主任 黄志伟 PRODUCTION 制作部 Production Manager Jennifer So 制作部经理 苏丽娟 Senior Designer Eva Kam 高级设计师 甘铭灵 Assistant Event and Media Service Manager Bonnie Law 助理项目及媒体服务经理 罗凤伦 ADVERTISING REPRESENTATIVES 广告代理 China 中国: 广州代表处 胡淑晶 | Tel 电话: (86) 20 8666 0158 Email 电邮: [email protected] Germany 德国: Liz Dobelmann | Tel 电话: (49) 721 384 1881 Email 电邮: [email protected] Italy 意大利: Mauro Arati | Tel 电话: (39) 02048517853 Email 电邮: [email protected] Japan 日本: Nobuaki Nito | Tel 电话: (81) 3 52961020 Email 电邮: [email protected] Taiwan 台湾: Rita Hung | Tel 电话: (886) 2 2738 3898 Email 电邮: [email protected] Thailand 泰国: Anna Vichvech | Tel 电话: (66) 2 036 0500 Email 电邮: [email protected] US 美国: Bonnie Chan | Tel 电话: (1) 347 906 4693 Email 电邮: [email protected] President & CEO - Asia Margaret Ma Connolly 亚洲主席及行政总裁 马颖 Senior Vice President - Asia David Bondi 亚洲高级副总裁 庞大为 Director of Jewellery Fairs Celine Lau 珠宝展览部总监 刘小雯 Published by Informa Markets 出版 1701-1705, China Resources Building, 26 Harbour Road, Wanchai, Hong Kong 香港湾仔港湾道26号华润大厦1701-1705室 Email 电邮: [email protected] JewelleryNet.com
市场指标 JNA July/August 2023 | 9 US$95.9M 9,590萬美元 50% Online Trade Updates 新闻快讯 De Beers opens Tracr to the trade 戴比尔斯开放Tracr平台予钻石 贸易业界 Consumption, tourism lift HK jewellery sales 旅游业及消费复苏提振香港地区 珠宝零售 IGI verifies largest LGD at 50.25 carats IGI验证最大顆的50.25克拉LGD De Beers Group is now letting companies across the diamond value chain join Tracr, its scaled diamond provenance and traceability programme. 钻石矿业巨头戴比尔斯集团现向钻石价值链中的 公司开放Tracr，一起加入全面且规模化的钻石产 地和溯源项目。 Jewellery sales in Hong Kong rose considerably during the first four months of the year on the back of continued improvements in consumer sentiment and tourism. 香港地区珠宝及其他奢侈品在今年首四个月的零 售额大幅上升，归因於消费意欲持续改善及访港 旅客人数增加。 The International Gemological Institute (IGI) has certified the 50.25-carat Shiphra lab-grown diamond produced by Ethereal Green Diamond LLP – the first LGD to surpass the significant “half-century” mark in carat weight. 国际宝石学院(IGI)认证了由Etheral Green Diamond LLP生产的50.25克拉夏皮拉(Shiphra) 实验室培育钻石—这是首颗克拉重量超过“半百” 里程碑的实验室培育钻石。 Our digital platform provides additional content for an even more comprehensive industry perspective. Scan the QR code for the full story and more trade news. 我们的数字平台载有更多更全面的 行业视角报道，请扫瞄二维码查看 全文和更多行业信息。 news.jewellerynet.com/en/jnanews Target cut in greenhouse gas emission by 2030 set by the Gemological Institute of America (GIA), according to the first GIA Sustainability Report. The research includes Environmental, Social and Governance data for all GIA affiliates in the nine countries where it operates. Total sales generated from Sotheby’s Magnificent Jewels sale in New York, its highest total for a jewellery auction. The 52.22-carat Estrela De Fura and the 10.57-carat Eternal Pink diamond each sold for US$34.8 million. 根据GIA美国宝石研究院的可持续发展报告，GIA订下在2030年或之前 温室气体排放量减少50%的目标。这项研究包括GIA在九个国家中营运 的所有附属机构的环境丶社会和治理数据。 纽约苏富比瑰丽珠宝拍卖会录得9,590万美元总收入，成为其珠宝拍卖会 史上最高成交纪录。领衔拍品52.22克拉的Estrela De Fura和10.57克拉的 永恒粉钻石，均以3,480万美元成交。 实验室培育钻石大奖 India-based Cupid Diamonds (GoGreen Diamonds) received a “Largest Exporters of Lab-Grown Diamonds” award at this year’s edition of the India Gem & Jewellery Awards (IGJA) held on April 23 in Mumbai. The award, presented to Cupid Diamonds Managing Director Tony Mehta, was given out for the first time at IGJA 2023 to shine a spotlight on industry leaders in the booming lab-grown diamond sector. IGJA is organised by the Gem & Jewellery Export Promotion Council. Mehta said Cupid Diamonds' solid reputation as one of the most trusted lab-grown diamond exporters globally stems from its dedication to customer service, sustainability and commitment to excellence. The vertically integrated company was established in 2015. 今年4月23日于孟买举行的印度宝石及珠宝大奖(IGJA))的盛会上，印 度公司Cupid Diamonds (GoGreen Diamonds)获颁授“最大型实验室 培育钻石出口商”殊荣。随着实验室培育钻石行业蓬勃发展，IGJA因而 在2023年首次设立这个奖项，以表扬行业领导者的成就，奖项由Cupid Diamonds执行总监Tony Mehta在典礼上亲自领取。IGJA由宝石和珠宝 出口促进委员会(GJEPC)主办。Mehta表示，Cupid Diamonds作为全球最 可信赖的实验室培育钻石出口商之一，其优良声誉源于对客户服务、可持 续发展和追求卓越的贡献。该公司是一家成立于2015年的垂直整合企业。 LGD award
FOCUS 10 | JNA July/August 2023 | Julius Zheng 郑嵘 | Diamond brooch with a 1.16-carat fancy pink diamond by Rosy Clouds Colored Diamonds 罗希克劳珍稀彩钻的钻石胸针，主石是1.16克拉的粉彩钻 A profound shift in consumer preferences, business channels and growth strategies are reshaping the landscape of China’s jewellery and gemstone sector as the country pushes forward in the wake of the Covid pandemic. 随着中国在新冠疫情后的发展，消费者 的偏好、商业渠道和增长策略方面的深刻转变，正在重塑中国珠宝和宝石行业的格局。 新现状影响中国珠宝业 China’s jewellery sector Emerging realities influencing
焦点 JNA July/August 2023 | 11 Diamond ring with a 1-carat emerald-cut fancy vivid purplish pink centre gem by Rosy Clouds Colored Diamonds 罗希克劳珍稀彩钻的1克拉祖母绿 切工艳彩紫粉钻戒指 China’s economy is clearly on the mend after the damaging effects of Covid-19 but some aspects of trade and commerce, especially in the jewellery industry, seem forever changed. According to industry players, recurring outbreaks – the most devastating of which occurred in 2022 – coupled with restrictive Covid measures had indirectly ushered in a new business normal. For instance, a prevailing buyer sentiment characterised by high savings and low spending remains evident in major sectors of the jewellery trade, particularly in the bridal market. Online shopping, meanwhile, has become even more mainstream. Stone Xu, chairman of China-based diamond jewellery retailer Zbird, explained, “As a result of the Covid-19 outbreak in 2022, the proportion of online purchases soared significantly, with the advent of livestreaming and the everincreasing number of consumers buying goods through this channel.” Product preferences have likewise changed. Rings remain a must-purchase in the bridal jewellery market, but businesses are seeing a shift in consumer choices for everyday jewellery. Buyers are gravitating towards colourful pieces that celebrate individuality hence stronger demand for coloured gemstone products, traditionally crafted gold jewellery and enamel jewellery. According to Xu, coloured gemstones is a popular livestreaming category. Meanwhile, many diamond retailers are expanding their product offerings to include coloured gemstones based on rising market demand. Coloured gemstones also provide greater diversity and higher margins and can cater to buyers with different budgets. Xu added that majority of consumers in China directly associate diamonds with love and wedding rings, so they believe one diamond is enough to last them a lifetime. However, as consumers’ spending power and desire to wear jewellery daily increases, coloured gemstones are gradually coming to light as a top consumer choice. Some coloured gemstone categories have had a strong following in China for quite a while, including quartz and chalcedony as well as jadeite and nephrite. Now, the so-called Big Three in the gemstone world – ruby, sapphire, emerald – are gaining more traction. Another well-loved category is pearl jewellery, which has been much favoured since ancient times. Consumer education on coloured gemstones has also improved over the years. Consumers buy coloured gemstones for investment and collection purposes, and for everyday wear. With the rise of online sales and livestreaming businesses, commercial-grade coloured gemstones rose in popularity among consumers, and these include spinel, tourmaline, chrysoberyl, opal, tanzanite, topaz, moonstone and chalcedony, to name a few. Cautious buying Retailers remarked that diamond demand remains lower than pre-Covid levels, adding that a significant drop in prices since last year heavily affected decisions of diamond dealers and retailers when rebuilding inventories. Wu Peng, general manager of Jinghua Jewellery, said several large retailers who used to source diamonds in large quantities monthly would now make purchases once every two or three months. Some retailers even launched a price bidding system among their suppliers. Diamond brooch by Rosy Clouds Colored Diamonds 罗希克劳珍稀彩钻的钻石胸针
FOCUS 12 | JNA July/August 2023 stone and recutting it, or getting it certified. They also have the option to sell the loose stone or reset it. With the resumption of international travel, buyers are expected to start purchasing second-hand and estate goods from Japan again. Buying recycled diamonds to recut to 3EX diamonds has likewise become a successful venture for small-scale diamond cutting workshops in China. Face-to-face business The return of in-person trade events and exhibitions is seen to further aid buyers in reigniting their businesses. Physical shows are where they discover new products, trends and services, meet with existing and potential suppliers, and close deals. Another important function of trade fairs is testing and establishing new price levels. Hong Kong shows held in March this year saw the return of Chinese B2B buyers to the international market. This however did not translate to actual sales, according to exhibitors, as Chinese buyers were not too accepting of existing high prices of goods. The maiden edition of Informa Markets’ Jewellery & Gem ASEAN Bangkok (JGAB) in April 2023, meanwhile, witnessed more buying activity with the slight softening of prices. Buyers attending JGAB also seized an opportunity to buy from the source at the renowned gemstone market of Chanthaburi in Thailand. Industry players in China said travel challenges hindered in-person business with overseas suppliers as flights between China and other countries, the US in particular, had yet to resume completely. At press time, Chinese and American airlines operated 24 direct flights per week between China and the US, compared to dozens of daily direct flights pre-pandemic. Fewer flights also mean pricier airfare. “Therefore, we do not see the full numbers of foreign suppliers coming to China yet as it is still expensive to travel abroad,” said Geng of Huabi Diamond. Travelling to India, on the other hand, also remains challenging due to hurdles in visa applications. Industry players however remain upbeat about solid market recovery, with Chinese jewellers at the ready to fulfill rising demand. “While the online communication channels that we have adopted during the pandemic remain effective, face-to-face meetings and product viewings remain invaluable to our business. We are happy that these are back. There is huge demand that needs to be fulfilled,” shared Chen of Rosy Clouds Colored Diamonds. Jinghua Jewellery, which operates 23 stores in Qingdao, Shandong province, is part of the Jinghua Group, one of the first members and shareholders of the Shanghai Diamond Exchange (SDE). According to Lydia Geng, president of diamond wholesaler and SDE member Huabi (HB) Diamond, recent buying activities revealed that diamonds of 0.005 to 0.02 carat and 0.03 to 0.07 carat, bearing G to H colours and SI clarity grades are highly sought after, with considerable price increases. These categories are suitable for the manufacturing of lower-priced diamond jewellery that are mostly sold online. Melee diamonds are also used in highend jewellery. “We have observed increased inventory buying for diamonds below 1 carat while demand for over 1-carat diamonds is relatively slow,” Geng added. Chen Zuwei, president of fancy colour diamond specialist Rosy Clouds Colored Diamonds, meanwhile observed that demand for top-quality, investment-grade fancy colour diamonds has witnessed a resurgence after the pandemic, backed by restored confidence among wealthy consumers. Zuwei explained, “The fancy colour diamond market in China is still developing. Blue and yellow diamonds are popular while Argyle pinks and even reds are attracting considerable attention.” New channels Consignment sales for livestreaming is a rising phenomenon in China’s jewellery trade. Retailers would borrow goods from suppliers and show these to consumers via livestreaming sessions. Any purchase could immediately be carried out but will only be completed once full payment is received. This form of sales usually applies to lowerpriced jewellery pieces. Close-outs have also become a reliable source of goods for buyers, specifically those who are adept at sorting and evaluating jewellery pieces. The purchase of close-out items is considered a smart and practical move amid massive shutdowns of jewellery retail stores during and even after the pandemic. The goods are often mixed, ranging from loose diamonds of various sizes, shapes and grades to plain or gemstone-studded jewellery pieces. Since close-out items are usually not best-sellers, buyers face the challenge of getting creative and selling them at a profit either as a finished jewellery piece or perhaps taking out the centre
焦点 JNA July/August 2023 | 13 在经历了新冠疫情的负面影响之后，中国经济得 以显著恢复，然而在某些商贸范畴，尤其是珠宝 业似乎被永久改变了。据业内人士称，疫情反复 (2022年情况尤为严峻)，叠加防疫措施，间接迎来了业务新 常态。 例如，被形容为高储蓄、低消费的买家情绪在珠宝贸易 的主要领域（尤其是在婚庆市场）依然大行其道。与此同时， 在线购物愈发成为主流。 中国在线钻石零售商钻石小鸟的董事长徐磊解释说：“由 于2022年的疫情再次爆发，在线购买的比例明显上升。随着 直播的出现，通过这一渠道购买商品的消费者数量急增。” 买家对产品的偏好也同样改变了。戒指仍然是婚庆珠宝 市场的必购品，但众多企业观察到，消费者对日常佩戴珠宝 的选择产生了变化。买家倾向于购买那些彰显个性的、缤纷 的宝石首饰，包括彩色宝石珠宝、古法黄金类产品，以及珐 琅类首饰。据徐磊董事长指出，彩色宝石在直播销售中是一 个受欢迎的类别。 与此同时，许多钻石零售商正在扩大产品类别，将需求 日益上升的彩色宝石纳入库存。彩色宝石也提供了多样性 和更高的利润率，并可满足不同预算的买家。 徐磊补充道，中国内地的大多数消费者直接将钻石与爱 情和结婚戒指联系在一起，因此认为一颗钻石能满足一生 的需求。不过，随着消费者的消费能力和对日常佩戴珠宝的 需求增加，彩色宝石逐渐成为消费者的首选。 一些彩色宝石类别在中国内地拥有大量捧场客，包括石 英、玉髓类别以及翡翠，还有和田玉类别。如今，三大彩色宝 石(红宝石、蓝宝石、祖母绿)正在获得更多的关注。另一个受 欢迎的类别是历史悠久的珍珠首饰，可以追溯到中国古代。 多年来，关于彩色宝石的消费者教育也得到了提升。消 费者购买彩色宝石的目的是投资和收藏，兼有日常佩戴。随 着线上销售和直播业务的兴起，商业级彩色宝石在消费者 中的美誉度上升，这些宝石包括尖晶石、碧玺、金绿宝石、欧 珀、坦桑石、托帕石、月光石和玉髓等等。 采购趋于谨慎 零售商表示，钻石需求仍然低于疫情之前的水平，加上 去年以来价格的大幅下降，严重影响了钻石经销商和零售 商重建库存的决定。 京华珠宝总经理吴鹏表示，几家大型零售商过去每月都 会大量采购钻石，目前则是两三个月采购一次。一些零售商 甚至推出了面向供应商的价格竞标系统。 京华珠宝隶属于京华集团，在山东省青岛市有23家门 店，该集团是上海钻石交易所(SDE)的首批会员与股东。 (Clockwise) Diamond ring with a rare 3-carat Argyle pink diamond, Panther brooch with a 2-carat fancy pink diamond, and leaf-shaped brooch with a 1-carat fancy red diamond, all by Rosy Clouds Colored Diamonds (順時針方向起) 來自罗希克劳珍稀彩钻公司的 系列︰彩钻戒指，镶嵌极罕见的3克拉阿盖尔粉 红钻石；2克拉中彩粉钻豹子胸针；以及树叶形 胸针，小甲虫背部镶嵌一颗1克拉红钻
FOCUS 14 | JNA July/August 2023 据钻石批发商华比钻石(SDE会员)总裁耿莉军称，最近 的采购活动显示，0.005至0.02和0.03至0.07克拉、G至H颜 色、SI净度的钻石受到热捧，价格有相当幅度上涨。该类别适 合制造主要在网上销售的低价位钻石首饰，这些米粒钻也 被用于高端珠宝。 “我们观察到1克拉以下钻石的库存采购量增加，而对1 克拉以上钻石的需求则相对疲软，”耿莉军补充说。 同时，专业经营彩钻的罗希克劳珍稀彩钻公司总裁陈祖 伟观察到疫情之后，在富裕消费者信心恢复的支撑下，顶级 品质、投资级彩钻的需求已经复苏。他解释道：“中国的彩钻 市场仍在发展中，蓝色和黄色钻石很受欢迎，而阿盖尔粉钻 甚至红色钻石也吸引了相当多的关注。” 新的销售渠道 直播寄售服务是中国内地珠宝贸易中日渐普遍的现象。 零售商向供应商暂借货品，并通过直播向消费者展示。在收 到消费者的付款后，交易随即达成。这一模式通常适用于价 格较低的珠宝。 闭店货品也成为买家的可靠货源，尤其是那些擅长分拣 和评估首饰的买家。疫情期间甚至疫情之后，珠宝店大规模 关闭，在此情况下，采购闭店货品被视为一个明智和实用的 举措 。 这些货品通常规格各异，从各种尺寸、形状和等级的钻 石裸石到素金或宝石镶嵌首饰。由于闭店货品通常不是畅 销品，买家面临的挑战是如何发挥创造力以获得利润——将 它们制作为成品珠宝出售，或将主石取出重新切磨，或者送 检做证书。买家可以选择出售裸石或重新镶嵌。 随着国际旅行的恢复，预计买家会重新开始采购来自日 本的二手产品和财产首饰。采购回收钻石并且重新切磨成 3EX钻石，也是国内小规模钻石切磨工坊成功的业务尝试。 面对面的业务 业界认为面对面的商业活动和商贸展的回归，将进一步 协助买家重振业务。实体展会是买家发现新产品、新趋势和 新服务的地方，能够与现有和潜在的供应商会面，并达成交 易。商贸展的另一个重要功能是测试和建立新的价格水平。 今年3月举行的香港展见证了内地B2B买家重返国际市 场。然而参展商表示，这并没有转化为实际销售，因为中国 内地买家不太接受现有货品的高价格水平。 同时，2023年4月，在Informa Markets主办首届东盟珠 宝首饰展览会(JGAB)上，随着价格水平稍微下降，采购活动 有所增加。参加JGAB的买家还抓住机会，在泰国著名的尖 竹汶宝石市场上进行源头采购。 业内人士表示，由于中国内地和其他国家(尤其是中美 之间)的航班尚未完全恢复，与海外供应商洽商交易仍然是 一项挑战。 目前在中美之间每周有24个直飞航班，而在疫情之前， 每天就有几十班。航班减少也意味着机票价格更昂贵。华比 钻石耿莉军总裁说：“因此，我们未能见到全数的外国供应 商前来中国，因为出国旅行的费用仍然很高。” 另一方面，由于签证申请方面的障碍，前往印度仍然困 难。然而，业内人士对市场稳定复苏保持乐观，内地珠宝商 已准备好满足不断增长的需求。 罗希克劳珍稀彩钻公司陈祖伟总裁分享道：“虽然我们 在疫情期间采用的在线沟通渠道依然有效，但面对面洽商 和看货，对开展业务仍然非常宝贵，我们乐见这一方面得到 恢复。目前有庞大的需求有待满足。” About the author 笔者简介 Julius Zheng is a jewellery industry analyst and senior consultant to several important firms and institutes. Actively engaged in industry matters, he has developed various projects that connect China’s diamond and jewellery sectors with international markets. Formerly general manager of Rapaport China, he has over 20 years’ experience in the international diamond and jewellery industry. 郑嵘，行业分析师、项目专家与资深顾问。曾在北美和中国的钻石、珠宝企业任职，长期发展连接中国和国际市 场的项目，有20年以上的国际工作经验。曾任国际钻石价格表发布机构Rapaport中国区创始总经理。 A group of gemstone brokers in Chantaburi, Thailand showing their gems to Peng Hongli (seated), president of Shanghai Fountain Jewellery during a recent buying trip. Photo courtesy of Julius Zheng 在近期的泰国尖竹汶采购行程中，一群宝石经纪人向上 海福泰珠宝总裁彭红黎（坐姿）展示宝石。图片由郑嵘提供
FOCUS 16 | JNA July/August 2023 | Bernardette Sto. Domingo 杜明高 | Member states of the Association of Southeast Asian Nations (ASEAN) continue to demonstrate steady growth and recovery amid ongoing macroeconomic and geopolitical challenges. Data from the International Monetary Fund showed that ASEAN’s gross domestic product (GDP) grew 5.7 per cent in 2022, with the gradual reopening of markets and resumption of travel. At the 42nd ASEAN Summit in Indonesia in May 2023, the group revealed that the ASEAN economy is targeted to grow by 4.7 per cent in 2023 and 5 per cent in 2024, propelled by robust domestic consumption, exports and accelerated recovery in services. Southeast Asia is also home to major manufacturers and exporters in the gemstone and jewellery trade, according to Suttipong Damrongsakul, chairman of the ASEAN Gems and Jewellery Association (AGJA). Low cost of doing business, talented manpower, manufacturing expertise and a market of around 680 million people also make the ASEAN market extremely competitive. Southeast Asian jewellers are upbeat about business prospects moving forward, supported by renewed plans to transform ASEAN into a global centre of jewellery manufacturing and gemstone production. 东盟珠宝商对业务前景持乐观态度，并重新 计划将东盟打造成珠宝和宝石制造中心。 东盟珠宝业蓬勃发展的机遇 ASEAN jewellery industry Glowing opportunities in Flags of the 10 ASEAN member-countries 东盟10个成员国的国旗
焦点 JNA July/August 2023 | 17 The region likewise holds an advantage in raw material sourcing, logistics, training institutions and gemmological services, with the presence of reputable laboratories in the region, shared Damrongsakul, who is also managing director of Thailand-based Gemopolis – a 25-hectare industrial zone dedicated to the jewellery manufacturing industry. Since its inception in 1990, Gemopolis has consistently attracted foreign investors wanting to set up manufacturing facilities in Thailand. The massive industrial estate currently houses more than 300 jewellers, over 95 per cent of which are from 29 overseas destinations. These include Europe, India, the US, China, Russia, the United Arab Emirates, Japan, South Korea, Australia, Malaysia, Singapore and Hong Kong. Gemopolis is also expanding – a testament to dazzling opportunities in the jewellery sector in Southeast Asia. The group is constructing two freezone projects in a 15,000-sqm area devoted to small- and medium-sized companies and some larger entities. “This space will also offer facilities for trading and workshops, not just manufacturing,” Damrongsakul told JNA. “The new zones will be completed by end-2023 and investors can move in and start operations by March 2024. We continue to develop the infrastructure, transportation and services in Gemopolis to serve newcomers.” Ermin Siow, advisor of the Federation of Goldsmiths and Jewellers Association of Malaysia, likewise attested to the growing importance of ASEAN in the global jewellery and gemstone sector. And Malaysia is among the region’s leading players. According to Siow, Malaysia produces mostly plain gold jewellery, which comprises 80 per cent of its total jewellery production. Of this, 90 per cent is 22-karat gold jewellery. It also manufactures gem-set pieces with diamonds, sapphires, rubies, emeralds, pearls and jade. The country exports the majority of the jewellery it produces to the Middle East, Singapore and Hong Kong. This year, it expects a 5 per cent growth in gross domestic product, which adds to its competitiveness as a market. Malaysia also does not impose goods and services and value added taxes and import duties for gold and jewellery. “Malaysia is the fourth largest jewellery market in ASEAN, behind Indonesia, Vietnam and Thailand. We are also business-friendly, but the market is small. To be successful, you need to find the right partner,” added Siow. “We also conduct two to three jewellery shows a year as a way for potential buyers to get to know the Malaysian market.” The Philippines, meanwhile, offers business opportunities for those looking to take advantage of its growing domestic jewellery market. According to Mia Florencio, president of The Guild of Philippine Jewelry Inc, working with the right partner is key to succeeding in the Philippine jewellery sector. She added that the local sector is suffering from the loss of skilled talents to destinations like the Middle East and China. “This also presents an opportunity for foreign suppliers to tie up with Philippine companies to sell locally. There is a big domestic market in the Philippines,” Florencio said at a seminar on the sidelines of the first Jewellery & Gem ASIA Bangkok (JGAB) in April 2023. Around 680M 约6.8亿 Combined population of the 10 ASEAN members as of 2022, according to the United Nations’ Economic and Social Commission for Asia and the Pacific 东盟10个成员国2022年的总人口，数据来自联合国 亚洲及太平洋经济社会委员会 Viandexdoc_Shutterstock.com Gold jewellery shop in Indonesia 印度尼西亚的金饰店
FOCUS 18 | JNA July/August 2023 Damrongsakul said, “Transitioning from OEM to ODM is a crucial component of modernisation efforts in ASEAN’s jewellery industry. Branding and creating designs with a focus on the Southeast Asian market is the future. This is the direction we are looking at.” He also highlighted China’s increasingly important role in advancing ASEAN’s growth potential. China is ASEAN’s largest trading partner, with bilateral trade reaching US$669 billion in 2021 – a year-on-year rise of 29 per cent, data from the World Economic Forum stated. Speaking at JGAB 2023, Simon Chan, CEO of China Gems & Jade Exchange, said jewellery and gem trade opportunities between ASEAN and China can be further strengthened. China’s GDP exceeded forecasts in the first quarter of 2023, rising by 4.5 per cent while jewellery retail sales rose 14 per cent in Q1. Coloured gemstone trade is likewise a promising sector in China, buoyed by solid demand for rubies, sapphires and emeralds. “Jewellery and gems have also evolved from being fine gifts for loved ones to investment options,” revealed Chan. Damrongsakul revealed that AGJA is also seeking support from China on trade and technology. For his part, Siow said ASEAN members can also benefit from China’s jewellery manufacturing expertise. “China is ahead of most markets in plain gold jewellery manufacturing. In the past, we would look at Italy or Turkiye as industry leaders in plain gold jewellery. Now, China is making a name for itself on this front. They have advanced manufacturing technology. They are also an export leader,” noted Siow. Moving forward, AGJA will continue to advocate for a unified tax system and free flow of goods in Southeast Asia to bolster regional trade. Damrongsakul said the association will represent its members in bilateral trade talks and government dialogues to help push for this unified economic bloc. According to Siow, prospects are bright for the ASEAN jewellery and gemstone trade on the back of sustained demand for top-quality jewellery pieces. This appetite for luxury jewellery only grew stronger during and after the pandemic, owing to the market’s desire to celebrate people and occasions, he added. Le Yen, general director of the Vietnam Gemstone Jewelry & Art Crafts Association International Trade Center, Revival of AGJA Renewed efforts are underway to transform ASEAN into a highly functioning regional hub for jewellery design, manufacturing and exports as well as coloured gemstone production. At the forefront of this undertaking is AGJA, which comprises stakeholders from Southeast Asia’s thriving jewellery and gemstone industry. ASEAN comprises Brunei, Cambodia, Laos, Indonesia, Malaysia, Myanmar, the Philippines, Singapore, Thailand and Vietnam. AGJA also has members from Japan, China, South Korea, Türkiye, Hong Kong, India, Australia and New Zealand. Established in 2018, AGJA has a clear and purposedriven mandate: To foster seamless jewellery and gemstone trade in the region through a unified tax system, among other proposals; provide a platform for knowledge-sharing and technological development; and further build ASEAN jewellers’ OEM/ODM expertise. The group’s plans were however put on hold in 2019 when the Covid-19 pandemic hit, crippling global economies alongside travel and trade. Now, AGJA is reviving its operations after a three-year hiatus, according to Damrongsakul. Siow revealed that AGJA is set to be relaunched this September at the Bangkok Gems & Jewelry Fair, which is organised by the Department of International Trade Promotion, Ministry of Commerce, Thailand and The Gem and Jewelry Institute of Thailand (Public Organization). AGJA is also looking to China for support. In particular, the group is aiming to take part in Shanghai Gems and Jade Exchange’s annual China International Import Expo, which is held every November. Similarly, AGJA aims to reconnect with the Dubai Multi Commodities Centre, which had earlier expressed interest in hosting AGJA’s annual conference – a significant aspect of the association’s programme – in Dubai, continued Siow. “All these planned activities will be instrumental in our return,” remarked Damrongsakul. “It is crucial for us to be able to organise an event where our members can come together and touch base with other industry stakeholders.” Regional strength One of AGJA’s core objectives is to foster design and brand-building initiatives to elevate the ASEAN jewellery sector to the next level. Plain gold jewellery 素金首饰
焦点 JNA July/August 2023 | 19 shares this sentiment, adding that buyers started gravitating towards higher-end gems and jewellery during the pandemic. “From experience, we observed more robust demand for expensive jewellery even during challenging times because these items are often seen as investments,” she continued. China’s reopening will also bode well for ASEAN. Damrongsakul noted, “The purchasing power of Chinese buyers is growing from strength to strength, specifically the Gen Z. They are starting to buy more jewellery. We can capitalise on this opportunity.” 金饰，其余则是镶有钻石、蓝宝石、红宝石、翡翠、珍珠和玉 石的珠宝。 该国将大部分珠宝出口到中东、新加坡和香港地区。今 年，马来西亚预计其国内生产总值(GDP)将增长5%，这将提 升其市场竞争力。另外，马来西亚对黄金和珠宝不征收货物 和服务税，增值税及进口关税。 Siow说：“马来西亚是东盟第四大珠宝市场，仅次于印度 尼西亚、越南和泰国。我们实行商业友好政策，但市场规模 较小。因此，要取得成功，就必须要找到合适的合作伙伴。” Siow补充说，“我们每年还举办两到三个珠宝展览，以便潜 在买家更了解马来西亚市场。” 与此同时，菲律宾的国内珠宝市场不断增长，也为业者 提供了商机。 The Guild of Philippine Jewelry Inc.主席Mia Florencio 称，与合适的伙伴衷诚合作，也是在菲律宾珠宝行业取得成 功的要点。她表示，高技能人才流失至中东和中国的情况， 令当地行业蒙受困扰。她补充道：“但外国供应商也可把握 与菲律宾公司合作的机会，在当地进行销售。菲律宾的国内 市场相当庞大。” AGJA的复兴 现时，东盟珠宝与宝石协会(AGJA)正重新努力地将东盟 打造成为珠宝设计、制造和出口，以及彩色宝石生产的地区 中心。该协会由东南亚珠宝和宝石行业的利益相关者所组 成。东盟成员国包括文莱、柬埔寨、老挝、印度尼西亚、马来 西亚、缅甸、菲律宾、新加坡、泰国和越南。AGJA还有来自日 本、中国、韩国、土耳其、香港地区、印度、澳大利亚和新西兰 的成员。 AGJA成立于2018年，旨在透过统一税务体系及其他 倡议来促进东盟的无缝珠宝和宝石贸易，提供知识分享和 技术发展平台，并建立东盟珠宝商的代工生产 / 自主设计 (OEM / ODM)的专业知识。 然而，由于2019年爆发的新冠疫情导致全球经济、旅游 和贸易陷入困境，AGJA的计划因而被推迟。Damrongsakul 指出，AGJA暂休三年后正恢复运营。 Siow表示，AGJA将于今年9月在曼谷宝石和珠宝展览会 上重新启动。这个展览会是由泰国政府商务部国际贸易促 进部，以及GIT泰国珠宝学院策划的。 AGJA计划参与由上海宝玉石交易中心于每年11月举办 的中国国际进口博览会，因此将会寻求中国的支持。 同样地，AGJA希望与迪拜多种商品交易中心(DMCC)重 新建立联系，迪拜曾表示有兴趣举办AGJA的年度会议，这 将会是AGJA计划中重要的一环。Damrongsakul表示：“所有 这些活动将对我们的复兴起着关键的作用。对我们来说，组织 东盟成员国一直在宏观经济和地缘政治挑战中保 持稳定增长和复苏。国际货币基金组织表示，随 着市场重新开放和旅游恢复，2022年东盟的国内 生产总值(GDP)增长了5.7%。 在2023年5月印度尼西亚举行的第42届东盟峰会上，东 盟表示，受到强劲的国内消费、出口和服务业所推动，其经 济有望能在2023年增长4.7%，并在2024年增长5% 。 东盟宝石与珠宝贸易协会(AGJA)主席Suttipong Damrongsakul表示，东南亚还拥有重要的宝石和珠宝制造 商及出口商。低成本的经营环境、人才优势、制造业专业知 识，以及约6.8亿人口的市场使东盟市场更具竞争力。 Damrongsakul续表示，东盟在原材料采购、物流、培训机 构和宝石鉴定服务方面同样富有优势，该地区亦拥有声誉良 好的宝石鉴定所。此外，Damrongsakul也是泰国宝石城的总 经理。泰国宝石城是一个占地25公顷的工业区，专用于珠宝 制造业。 自1990年成立以来，泰国宝石城一直吸引着那些希望在 该国建立制造设施的外国投资者，工业园区内目前拥有300 多家珠宝商，其中超过95%来自欧洲、印度、美国、中国、俄罗 斯、阿联酋、日本、韩国、澳大利亚、马来西亚、新加坡和香港 地区等29个国家和地区 。 泰国宝石城的规模也在扩充，现时正为中小型企业和一 些大型企业建设两个自由贸易区项目，占地15,000平方米， 展示了东盟珠宝行业的发展机会。 Damrongsakul向《JNA亚洲珠宝》表示：“这些空间为贸易 和工作坊提供设施，不仅仅是为了制造业，”Damrongsakul续 说，“新区将于2023年底竣工，投资者可以在2024年3月开 始运营。我们将继续发展泰国宝石城的基础设施、交通和服 务，以提供更好的服务予新来者。” 马来西亚金钻珠宝商公会联合总会顾问Ermin Siow，同 样证实了东盟在全球珠宝和宝石行业中日益重要的地位。 Siow表示，马来西亚是该地区的主要参与者之一，专门 生产素金首饰，并占其总珠宝产量的80%。其中90%是22K Gemstone market in Chanthaburi, Thailand 泰国尖竹汶市的宝石市场
FOCUS 20 | JNA July/August 2023 一场让我们的会员能够与其他行业利益相关者会面和重新联 系的活动是十分重要的。” 区域实力 AGJA希望推动设计和品牌建设，从而将东盟的珠宝行 业提升到另一个水平。 Damrongsakul说：“从代工生产(OEM)转型为自主设计 (ODM)，对于东盟珠宝行业现代化尤其重要。以东南亚市场 为重点的品牌推广和设计是我们未来的方向，这正是我们 所关注的。 ” 他还强调中国在推动东盟增长潜力方面有着重要的角 色。根据世界经济论坛的数据显示，中国是东盟最大的贸易 伙伴，2021年双边贸易额达到6,690亿美元，同比增长29%。 与此同时，中国宝玉石交易中心的首席执行官陈昱，也 对中国珠宝首饰行业的机遇给予肯定。中国在2023年第一 季度的GDP上升了4.5%，升幅超出预期。第一季度的珠宝销 售额则上升14%。中国的彩宝行业在红宝石、蓝宝石和祖母 绿需求的带动下，前景一片光明。陈昱透露：“珠宝和宝石从 前只是赠送挚爱的礼物，但现在已演变成投资品。” Damrongsakul说，AGJA还希望得到中国在贸易和技术 方面的支持，而Siow表示东盟成员国可以从中国的珠宝制 造业专业知识中获益。 “中国在素金首饰制造方面领先于大多数市场。过去，我 们曾把意大利或土耳其视为素金首饰行业的领导者。现在中 国拥有先进的制造技术，同时亦是出口的领导者。” AGJA将推动东南亚实现统一的税务体系和商品自由流 动，以促进区内贸易。Damrongsakul表示，AGJA将代表其成 员参与双边贸易谈判和政治会谈，从而推动建立这个统一 的经济区块。 Siow表示，由于高品质珠宝的需求持续，东盟的珠宝和 宝石行业有望进一步发展。 他補充說，在疫情期间和之後，随着人们对庆祝人和事 的欢欣场合增加，对奢侈珠宝的需求只会更加强劲。 越南宝石珠宝及艺术手工制品协会国际贸易中心的总 经理Le Yen也表示，买家在疫情期间开始购买更高品质的 宝石和珠宝。 她继续说道：“即使在艰难时期，我们看到昂贵珠宝的需 求仍然上升，因为这些东西通常被视为一项投资。” 中国重新开放也对东盟带来好处。Damrongsakul指出： “中国买家的购买力正在增强，尤其是Z世代。他们开始购 买更多珠宝，我们可以好好地利用这个机会。” 4.7% and 5% Respective growth projections for the ASEAN economy in 2023 and 2024, which ASEAN revealed at the 42nd ASEAN Summit in Indonesia in May 2023 东盟在2023年和2024年的经济增长预测，数据由东盟在 2023年5月在印度尼西亚举行的第42届东盟峰会上发布 Second from left: Simon Chan, CEO of China Gem & Jade Exchange; Ermin Siow, advisor of Federation of Goldsmiths and Jewellers Association of Malaysia; Mia Florencio, president of The Guild of Philippine Jewelry Inc; and Suttipong Damrongsakul, chairman of ASEAN Gems and Jewellery Trade Association (AGJA) at the Jewellery & Gem ASIA Bangkok 2023 左二起：陈昱（中国宝玉石交易中心首席执行官） 、萧德明（马来西亚金钻珠宝商公会联合总会顾问）、Mia Florencio (The Guild of Philippine Jewelry Inc主席)、以及东盟宝石与珠宝贸易协会 (AGJA)主席Suttipong Damrongsakul在JGAB 2023参与专家论坛。
ADVERTORIAL 22 | JNA July/August 2023 As jewellery industry trends continue to evolve, branded jewellery is expected to be a major growth engine in the coming years. Effective branding builds strong consumer relevance and connectivity, which younger consumers appreciate, according to the latest insights from the 2023 Platinum Jewellery Business Review, organised in London by Platinum Guild International (PGI), the global marketing organisation dedicated to creating and strengthening the market for platinum jewellery. “The value of branding is well understood and developed in other luxury categories such as fashion but lags behind in jewellery. PGI leverages consumer research and insight to develop a brand application framework to unlock these opportunities. We have been working with our partners to ensure branded platinum collections with strong storytelling, designs, and new technologies meet the aspirations of our consumers,” said Huw Daniel, CEO of PGI. China: Fashion-forward platinum brand speaks to young Chinese women, delivering results amidst uncertainties China ranks first among all jewellery markets in the world, but growth has shifted from Tier 1 and 2 cities to lower-tier cities. During this transition, China is moving towards large jewellery retail chains that are quick to use more branded jewellery. 2022 was an extremely challenging year for the Chinese economy and consumers, with approximately two fiscal quarters of stifled business activity. Consumer confidence continued to weaken on the back of multiple sporadic 2023 Pt Moment® Collection Branded Collections Drive the Future Growth of the Platinum Jewellery Industry 品牌化系列推动铂金首饰行业未来增长
软文 JNA July/August 2023 | 23 随着珠宝行业趋势不断演变，品牌化系列珠宝将 成为未来几年的主要增长引擎。国际铂金协会 (PGI®)作为全球性营销服务机构，一直以来致 力于创造和推动铂金首饰市场的发展。协会在伦敦发布的 2023年《铂金首饰年度商业评论》中提到，有效的品牌塑造 能够加强与年轻消费者之间的关系与情感联结，并得到其 认可。 国际铂金协会(PGI®)首席执行官唐昊诚(Huw Daniel)先 生表示“: 品牌化的价值在时装等其它奢侈品领域已得到了 充分的诠释与发展，但在珠宝领域仍有差距。国际铂金协会 (PGI®)充分利用消费者研究和洞察，帮助构建品牌化系列首 饰的应用框架，以解锁新机遇。协会与行业伙伴齐心协作， 以确保我们的品牌化系列铂金首饰具备强故事性、设计感 和新技术，来满足消费者的愿望。” 各国铂金首饰行业市场回顾 中国是全球珠宝消费市场中排名第一的国家，其发展也 从一二线城市转向更低线城市。在这一转变过程中，随着中 国大型珠宝零售连锁品牌的蓬勃发展，越来越多的品牌化 系列珠宝推向市场。 2022年对中国经济和消费者来说是极具挑战的一年。 新冠疫情的多次零星爆发，消费者信心持续减弱，制造商展 厅和零售店的客流量也都遭受了严重冲击。2022年铂金首 饰加工量同比下降32%，不足50万盎司。由于店铺客流量受 影响，零售商更谨慎地补充产品库存，试图将其保持在最低 水平。 尽管近期有复苏迹象，但2023年仍存在不确定性。从长 远来看，引入高端铂金产品将对消费者和珠宝行业产生持 续吸引力。「铂金时刻®」系列等品牌化系列一直在为疫情后 的珠宝消费复苏做出贡献，这也是协会未来持续发展的方 向。该品牌化系列的目标受众为年轻女性，她们希望以自己 独特的当代女性特质去拥抱坚韧与优雅。「铂金时刻®」系列 为该目标人群提供高性价比的非婚庆贵金属首饰选择，以 满足其需求。 凭借设计创新和新技术运用，该品牌化系列在2022年推 出了超过150款新品，销售门店从2018年的约50家扩展到 2022年的1,800家。尽管受到新冠疫情和疫情防控措施的影 响，「铂金时刻®」系列的销售量在2020年至2022年间，年均 复合增长率仍达到11%。 品牌化的铂金首饰系列在其他主要铂金市场也取得了 成功。在美国，品牌系列“Platinum Born”为市场提供了时尚 的铂金首饰选择。在此之前，美国的铂金首饰市场以婚庆类 别为主导，选择十分有限。 在印度，铂金首饰市场保持强劲增长，其中“Men of Platinum”铂金男士系列瞄准当地约1,220万年轻富裕的都 市男性，借助代言人的明星效应，传递价值观，推动合作伙 伴利润增长。同时在日本，“Platinum Woman”系列因其价 格实惠和产品年轻化，能切实满足新生代铂金首饰重度消 费者的需求。 唐昊诚先生表示：“虽然为了满足当地消费者需求，我们 在不同国家的战略有所差异，但品牌化系列显然是铂金首 饰行业未来的主要增长引擎。” COVID outbreaks. Traffic to both manufacturing showrooms and retail stores was significantly affected. Platinum jewellery fabrication slumped by 32 per cent year-on-year to less than half a million ounces in 2022. With store traffic being severely affected, retailers were reluctant to replenish products and instead sought to keep stock levels to a minimum. Uncertainty remains in 2023 despite some recent recovery, but in the long term, the introduction of premium platinum products will create appeal to both consumers and the jewellery trade. Branded collections such as Pt Moment® have been contributing to the post-COVID recovery in China and will continue in the future. Aiming at young women who want to embrace tenacity and elegance with their own take on contemporary femininity, this branded collection offers affordable non-bridal precious jewellery options that fit their needs. Powered by design innovations and new technologies, the branded collection featured more than 150 SKUs in 2022, and increased distribution from around 50 doors in 2018 to 1,800 in 2022. The sales volume of Pt Moment® grew at a CAGR of 11 per cent during 2020-2022, despite the COVID outbreaks and pandemic-control measures. New segments Branded collections also prove successful in other key platinum markets namely the US, India and Japan. In the US, the branded collection Platinum Born presents fashion-forward options in a market previously dominated by platinum bridal jewellery. Over in India, the fastest-growing platinum market, the Men of Platinum branded collection trains its sights on the country's 12.2 million young, affluent, urban men. Meanwhile, Platinum Woman offers affordable and youthful collections for the next generation of platinum jewellery buyers in Japan. Daniel said, “While our approach differs from country to country in order to meet the needs of local consumers, it is clear that branded collections are a major growth engine for the future of the platinum jewellery industry.” Huw Daniel, CEO of Platinum Guild International 国际铂金协会(PGI®)首席执行官唐昊诚先生
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