DESIGN 48 | JNA January/February 2023 Stacking and dangling Tassels, chandelier earrings or fringe designs in diverse styles ranging from ethnic jewels to minimalist pieces will also make a comeback, according to Yan. These are evident in the collections of jewellers Ambersouk, Rainbow K, Sharon Khazzam, Leon Yvonne, Guzema Fine Jewelry and Jade Ruzzo, to name a few. Stacking and layering is also trendy again, with layered and jumbled pearl necklaces becoming hugely popular. In fact, big, bold bangles and cuffs were seen on many Fall/ Winter 2022-2023 fashion runways. The “curated ear” is another form of stacking featuring layered or stacked ear piercings on the lobe. Personalisation is the driving force behind consumers’ growing need for modern, more expressive jewellery pieces, O'Steen explained. Consumers want to be on-trend while also standing out. Sustainability 2.0 A new level of sustainability takes jewellery design one step further as it is not just about sourcing but experimenting with unconventional materials, noted de Luca. These include synthetics, organic materials combined with different alloys, and plated or coloured metals. “The design does not need to look organic; the intrinsic value lies in the used materials,” she remarked. Yan agreed, adding that jewellers will continue redefining the notion of preciousness by using various alternative and non-conformist materials like salvaged wood and natural sea elements. Reusing and upcycling alongside the use of organic silhouettes and textured gold will be an ongoing theme in jewellery design, she added. Designers like Alighieri, Lenka Kerlicka, Patcharavipa, Polly Wales and Ellis Cameron are among a new breed of jewellers who will continue to promote the sustainability narrative. Many designers are incorporating unusual materials like wood, ceramic, shell, lucite, glass, horn and patinated copper, among others, into their collections, disclosed O’Steen. These designs are unusual, larger in scope, unique and eye-catching – moving away from traditional styles to a more contemporary feel. More than aesthetics however, these designs connote accountability and sustainability. “More andmore consumers are asking where the gems and metals come from, opting to make eco-conscious choices with their discretionary spending. Recycled metals and traceable gemstones are in the spotlight,” continued O’Steen. Mao added that lab-grown diamonds and recycled stones could further fuel the sustainability movement alongside vintage and antique jewellery. Inghirami added there is growing demand for vintage jewellery among younger buyers since it is viewed as a sustainable choice with a rich and diverse story, and high emotional value. Vintage engagement rings, for instance, are rising in popularity among modern couples. Earrings by Sole Yeung Sole Yeung耳环
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