设计 JNA January/February 2023 | 47 The changing concept of fluidity New York-based jewellery communications consultant for Luxury Brand Group Duvall O'Steen said the concept of gender-fluid designs is gaining steam in the jewellery industry. This type of jewellery tends to feature neutral stones like diamonds, pearls and colourless gems that signify versatility and an on-the-go lifestyle. Geometric shapes, iconic motifs such as stars or Zodiac signs, and unembellished styles further define the genderfluid look. Designer Chris Ploof, for instance, refuses to compartmentalise his buyers as women or men, but simply as people who appreciate his artistry. The US-based jeweller specialises in Damascus steel, mokume-gane – a Japanese metalworking procedure – and meteorite inlay. His rings have amassed a huge following, thanks to their inimitable, versatile designs. Ploof recently launched a glow-in-the- dark collection. De Luca meanwhile explained that the very concept of fluidity has also evolved throughout the years. Fluidity can now pertain to age, culture, inclusivity and diversity. It can likewise be taken literally through body jewellery, or pieces that “morph” and become one with the wearer, including tribal and indigenous jewellery from Africa or India that are translated into unexpected, futuristic ways Pearl era Men wearing jewellery will also continue to be a trend throughout 2023. They however do not just wear jewellery; they wear pearls and proudly. Peggy Grosz, senior vice president of pearl specialist Assael, revealed that a wider variety of men are adorning themselves with pearl jewellery. “We see men of all ages and professions appreciating how pearls are attractive, sustainable and biogenic gifts of nature, not just men who identify with a different sexual orientation,” shared Grosz. Laura Inghirami, an Italy-based jewellery opinion leader and founder of consultancy DonnaJewel agreed, adding that pearls are headlining various design reinventions by major jewellery houses, which give the lustrous gem a more modern appeal. O'Steen, for her part, calls it the “pearl revolution.” She further explained, “Pearls have become popular among men, thanks to celebrities such as Harry Styles, ASAP Rocky, and Pharrell Williams.” Newfound joy In a post-pandemic world, colourful and artistic jewellery pieces increasingly spark joy in the wearer. Gemmologist Isabella Yan, who also founded Artsmeetsjewellery.com, explained that “kaleidoscopic jewels” have evolved into a meta-palette of electric-neon shades. “We see this in the use of chrome metals, aluminum and titanium cast in iridescent shades,” noted Yan. “It is a trend that has become ubiquitous and accepted by the general sophisticated consumer.” Examples of these are Swarovski's Dulcis collection and the vibrant works of jewellers such as Eera, Hugo Kreit, Claire Webb and Austy Lee. Helen Mao, a jewellery advisor and curator, meanwhile suggested Cindy Chao and Kelly Xie as go-to designers for buyers wanting coloured gem-studded high jewellery. According to de Luca, mood translates into colour and energy. She said, “People love to wear one bold colour or combinations of colours in clothing, accessories and jewellery. It is an expression of oneself in modern times.” Shotgun barrel rings by Chris Ploof Chris Ploof霰弹枪管戒指 Tahitian pearl jewellery by Assael Assael大溪地珍珠首饰 Coloured gemstone bracelet by Kelly Xie Kelly Xie彩色宝石手链
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