JNA January/ February 2023

JNA January/February 2023 | 41 JNA 40周年 装饰艺术风格的图案、精美的珐琅工艺 和厚重的复古风格联接了过去和现在。 35Jewellery styles 珠宝风格 Ear jewellery dominated the Covid-19 era of digital meetings. As in-person interactions return, styles are bolder and more expressive. Brooches provide a pop of colour and character. Men are expanding their watch, chain and bracelet tandem with pearl necklaces, silver or platinum earrings, diamond ear studs and fancy brooches. And gender-fluid designs break down barriers of style and tradition. 耳饰在新冠疫情的数字化会议时期占 主导地位。随着人际交往的回归,风格也 更加大胆和富有表现力。胸针提供流行 颜色和个性。男士们正在用珍珠项链、银 或铂金耳环、钻石耳钉和花式胸针突破 手表、项链和手链的穿戴范围。而性别多 元化的设计打破了风格和传统的障碍。 36Cross-sectoral collaborations 跨界合作 Jewellery is expanding its horizons, with collaborations in different lifestyle spaces such as fashion, NFTs and art. Not only are jewellery designs influenced by trends in these sectors, such relationships are deepened by fashion-label pop ups in jewellery stores, fine art-inspired jewellery collections and concert tie-ups for client loyalty programmes, among others. Select jewellery brands are also finding a home in concept stores with curated themes. 珠宝正在扩大视野,在不同的生活方式 空间进行合作,如时尚、NFT和艺术。珠 宝设计受到这些行业趋势的影响,通过 珠宝店的时尚品牌快闪店和客户忠诚 度计划的音乐会合作等方式,深化这一 合作。部分珠宝品牌也在具有特定策划 主题的概念店中找到了空间。 37Digital and expanded certificates 数字化证书和扩展证书 Certification, often the bedrock of client trust, is taking new forms and covering new areas. GIA is turning all its certificates digital, starting with its popularDiamondDossier that isnowonly available in digital format. Gemmological laboratories are offering more detailed certificates for lab-grown diamonds and gems, and new certificates and grading reports are being introduced for fields such as colour standards for gemstones and even sustainable mining. 作为不少客户信任的基石,认证正不断 采取新形式,并涵盖新领域。GIA正将其 所有证书数字化,首先是受欢迎的钻石 鉴定精简版报告,现在只提供电子版。 宝石学鉴定所正在为实验室培育的钻 石和宝石提供更详细的证书,并且正在 为宝石的颜色标准、甚至可持续采矿等 领域推出新的证书和分级报告。 38Non-traditional traditions 非传统的传统 While classics will always be appreciated, today’s social citizens are perennially in pursuit of novelty. This philosophy is fuelled by the desire for significantly distinctive personas. Engagement rings, which first expanded from diamonds into coloured gemstones, are now embracing new styles such as toi et moi designs. Rubies, emeralds and sapphires remain the leading royalty of the coloured gemstone world but share the limelight with princes and princesses such as Paraiba tourmaline, spinel and Santa Maria aquamarine. 虽然经典永驻,当今社会公民同样追求 新奇,在个人形象方面追求与众不同。 首先从钻石开始,扩展到彩色宝石,现 在正在拥抱新风格,如toi et moi(你和 我)设计。红宝石、祖母绿和蓝宝石仍是 执掌宝石世界的皇族,然而帕拉伊巴碧 玺、尖晶石和圣玛丽亚海蓝宝石等王子 公主也分享显赫。 39New generation of leaders 新一代领导人 Second-, third- and fourth-generation leaders are bringing their family enterprises to new heights. Armed with a jewellery pedigree honed by the finest universities and perfected on the job, this younger breed of leaders is bold enough to innovate and cautious enough to pursue sustainable growth. The industry stalwarts of tomorrow are also invigorating the fields in which they operate with a collegial zeal and visionary ambition. 第二、三代甚至第四代领导人将家族企 业提升到新高度。年轻领导人拥有珠宝 商血统,受名校磨练,在工作中精进。他 们大胆创新,又足够谨慎,追求可持续 增长。未来的行业中坚力量也正以学院 热情和远大抱负为行业注入活力。 40Trade collaborations 行业合作 Trade organisations and associations are taking the lead on many business, technical and strategic issues to bolster their sector’s prospects. Collaborating with industry partners, providing platforms for discussion and coordinating with fellow trade bodies help ensure sustainable development and growth avenues. The industry is strong when united and such leadership is needed to maintain growth in an ever-evolving market. 行业组织和协会正在商业、技术和战略 方面发挥主导作用,提升行业前景。与业 内伙伴合作,提供讨论平台,并与同业行 业机构进行协调,有助于确保可持续发 展和增长途径。团结则强,在不断发展 的市场中保持增长需要这样的领导力。 Scan to view detailed report on 扫描以在线查看详细报告 JewelleryNet.com

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