JNA 40th ANNIVERSARY 40 | JNA January/February 2023 28Making the cut 注重切工 Unusual and eclectic cuts for coloured gemstones oblige shoppers’ thirst for novelty and selfassurance. That extra special detail always goes a long way. 不寻常和不拘一格的彩色宝石切割满 足了购物者对新奇和自我肯定的渴求， 额外的特殊细节在长远上作用很大。 29Experiential retail 体验式零售 Physical stores are evolving beyond transactions to lifestyle destinations as shoppers demand memorable shopping experiences. Online connectivity and social access are now bare minimums in the face of augmented reality, bespoke services and in-store masterclasses that can enhance client engagement and loyalty. 随着购物者对难忘的购物体验的需求， 实体店正在超越交易而演变为生活方 式的目的地。当增强现实技术、定制服 务和店内大师班能够提高客户的参与 度和忠诚度时，在线连接和社交访问现 在是最基本的条件。 30Smart, multifunctional jewellery 智能、多功能的珠宝 Combining fashion and function, smart jewellery gives a new dimension to wearable tech, from health-tracking pendants to necklaces that double as a messaging app and as a camera. What about a smart ring that sends notifications, displays messages and turns into an earphone when needed? Or a bracelet or ring that acts as a remote control for one’s camera phone? The possibilities are endless. 结合时尚和功能，智能珠宝为可穿戴 技术提供了一个新的维度，健康追踪吊 坠、可用作简讯APP和相机的项链、能发 送通知、显示信息并可变身耳机的智能 戒指、可以用作相机手机遥控器的手镯 或戒指，可能性是无穷无尽的。 31Cultural elements 文化元素 In the Guochao trend that has been sweeping China, elements of traditional Chinese culture are given a modern twist and incorporated in present-day products, jewellery included. Millennials and Gen Zs are among the trend’s strongest supporters, fuelled by a strong wave of national pride. Such close-tohome themes increasingly appeal to consumers. International players must however be careful not to cross the line into cultural appropriation. 在席卷中国的国潮中，中国传统文化的 元素被赋予了现代色彩，并融入到当今 的产品中，包括珠宝。在强烈的民族自 豪感浪潮的推动下，千禧一代和Z世代 是这一趋势的最有力支持者。这种贴近 家庭的主题越来越吸引消费者。然而， 国际参与者必须注意不要越过文化挪 用的界限。 32Online auctions 网上拍卖 Auction houses took to the Internet when the Covid lockdowns shuttered physical sales. This new business model proved effective and, by all accounts, will remain part of their business strategies. Christie’s allows clients to bid online through its mobile app and its WeChat mini program, while Phillips Jewels reports unprecedented online bidding activity at its auctions. 当疫情封城关闭了实体销售时，拍卖 行就走上了互联网。这种新的商业模式 被证明是有效的，而且从各方面来看， 将继续成为其商业战略的一部分。佳 士得允许客户通过其移动应用程序和 微信小程序进行在线竞拍，而Phi l l ips Jewels则报告称其拍卖会上的线上竞 拍活动前所未有。 33Cryptocurrency payments at auctions 拍卖会上的加密货币 支付 In June 2021, an anonymous buyer bought a 100-carat pear-shaped D-colour flawless diamond for US$12.3 million at Sotheby’s. This was the highest price achieved for any jewellery or gemstone purchased with cryptocurrency –something worth keeping an eye on. 2021年6月，一位匿名买家在苏富比拍 卖会上以1,230万美元买下了一颗100 克拉的梨形D色无瑕钻石，是以加密货 币购买的珠宝或宝石所的最高价格。同 年9月，在苏富比的香港拍卖会上，一条 Harry Winston的标志性钻石项链“钻 石：耀目∞”成为第一件提供加密货币 支付选项的珠宝。虽然那场面向使用加 密货币支付的买家的拍卖会只卖出了8 件作品中的一件，但它标志着珠宝拍卖 的新时代，连同加密货币的命运一起值 得密切关注。 34Vintage rules 复古规则 The hold of the past remains strong as antique and vintage jewellery pieces continue to captivate the market. Smaller and wearable designs are particularly in demand. Proving the timelessness of truly exceptional design, vintage-inspired pieces also move well, with Art Deco patterns, fine enamel work and chunky retro styles bridging the past and the present. 怀旧使古董和复古珠宝继续吸引着市 场。较小的和可穿戴的设计尤其受到欢 迎。真正卓尔不凡的设计的永恒性得到 了验证，复古风格的作品也长足发展， Luiza Kamalova / Shutterstock.com
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