JNA January/February 2023 | 37 JNA 40周年 外，更大的挑战是说服这些消费者选择 珠宝，而不是其他奢侈品或项目(如精 巧电器或旅游)。珠宝需要超越个性化， 反映客户的生活的价值和意义才是致 胜之道。 6Purchase drivers 购买驱动因素 A significant portion of jewellery sales are self-purchases, a segment that is likely to continue growing in the years to come. Consumers are buying jewellery to reward themselves for their successes, commemorate special events or simply select the item that best fits their style. Some couples are even shopping together for engagement rings, which may eliminate the element of surprise but guarantees satisfaction. 很大部分珠宝销售是以自购为目的，在 未来几年可能继续增长。消费者购买珠 宝是为了奖励自己的成功、纪念特殊事 件或者只是选择最适合自己风格的物 品。一些情侣甚至一起选购订婚戒指， 惊喜因素不足，但保证满意度满分 7New sales channels 新的销售渠道 Social media and livestreaming are the sales channels of tomorrow for young consumers and the young at heart. Digital natives flock to social media for the latest trends and buys. Online jewellery shops on Instagram, WeChat and other Chinese social platforms have accumulated a steady supply of customers that grew even more during the digital days of the pandemic. Livestreaming likewise generates substantial sales, particularly in China where popular hosts and enticing products draw in shoppers. 社交媒体和直播是年轻消费者和心态 年轻人士未来的销售渠道。数字原生代 涌向社交媒体，了解最新的趋势和购 物。Instagram、微信和其他中文社交 平台上的线上珠宝店已经积累了稳定 的客户，在疫情的数字化时代，此类客 户增长更多。直播也带动了可观的销售 额，特别是在中国，网红和诱人的产品 吸引大量观众和消费者 8KOLs and KOCs 网红 Key Opinion Leaders (KOLs) and Key Opinion Consumers (KOCs) have become a powerful marketing strategy for brands and companies, thanks to their solid following. New rules requiring disclosure for paid endorsements notwithstanding, KOLs and KOCs provide substantial brand awareness and recognition from target audiences in a world ruled by social media, celebrity endorsements and influencer marketing. 关键意见领袖(KOL)和关键意见消费者 (KOC)已经成为品牌和公司的强大营销 策略，这归功于他们坚实的追随者。尽 管新规则要求披露付费代言，但在一个 由社交媒体、名人代言和网红营销统治 的世界里，KOL和KOC提高了大量品牌 的知名度和得到目标受众的认可。 9Alternative sources of funding 其他资金来源 Grants, finance funds and even crowdsourcing campaigns have injected capital into the gem and jewellery industry, after the exodus of several banks in the last few years. Special loans using gemstones as collaterals also exist to provide financial support to the trade. Fintech companies likewise offer assistance. 虽然在过去几年中，有几家银行退出了 珠宝业务，但是赠款、融资基金，甚至是 众包活动都为宝石和珠宝行业注入了 资金，也有使用宝石作为抵押品的特别 贷款，为行业提供财务支持。金融技术 公司也提供金融解决方案。 10AI in jewellery trade 人工智能在珠宝行业 Artificial Intelligence (AI) is powering diamond grading solutions, yielding faster and consistent results. Sarine and GIA are putting the advantages that AI brings to full use in their grading products. AI is likewise revolutionising the jewellery retail sector by automating processes, enabling virtual try-on and visualisation services and facilitating bespoke and personalised functions. 人工智能( A I )正在为钻石分级解决 方案提供动力，获得更快和一致的结 果。Sarine和GIA正在将AI带来的优势， 充分用于其分级产品。AI同样也在通过 自动化流程、实现虚拟试戴和可视化服 务，以及促进体验式功能来革新珠宝零 售行业，而这仅仅是个开始。 11Smart manufacturing 智能制造 AI also figures in smart manufacturing, which relies on digital technologies to transform the traditional jewellery production process. Aside from AI, smart factories integrate other emerging technology such as Robotic Process Automation to create jewellery. Automation can be extended to companies’ back-office and management systems for a fully digital operation. AI也出现在智能制造中，依靠数字化技 术来改变传统的珠宝生产过程。除AI外， 智能工厂还整合了其他新兴技术，如机 器人流程自动化。自动化可以扩展到公 司后台和管理系统，实现完全的数字化 操作。 123D printing 3D打印 3D printing is poised to revolutionise jewellery manufacturing in precious metals. While still costly, as economies of scale make prices for powder more competitive, jewellers will be able to bypass common manufacturing challenges to produce innovative pieces. 3D打印有望彻底改变贵金属珠宝制造。 虽然成本仍然很高，但随着规模经济使粉 末的价格更具竞争力，珠宝商将能够绕 过常见的制造难题，生产出创新的作品。 13Online trading platforms for gemstones 宝石的网上交易平台 Online trading platforms have moved into gemstone territory led by Gembridge and GemCloud. Though coloured gemstones are a much more varied breed than diamonds, technological advances in colour
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