JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2023 ISSUE #437 US$15 2023 outlook shaping the market of tomorrow 2023前景展望 40股塑造未来市场的动力 forces 40 JWA Dubai Celebrating the Honourees of the 2023 Special Edition 恭贺2023年特别版大奖 获嘉许者
CONTENTS Issue #437 | JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2023 8 DIGEST 市场指标 8 Hong Kong jewellery sales dip in November 2022 香港地区去年11月珠宝零售额下跌 25 JWA DUBAI 2023 25 Celebrating the Honourees of the 2023 Special Edition 恭贺2023年特别版大奖获嘉许者 10 FOCUS 焦点 10 Jewellery trade: Optimism amid uncertainties in 2023 珠宝行业：在2023年的不确定因素下 保持乐观 16 Brilliant possibilities in jewellery auction sector 珠宝拍卖业的璀璨机遇 28 Brand of the Year – Retail: 年度零售品牌： Dhamani Jewels 30 Outstanding Enterprise of the Year: 年度杰出企业： Pure Gold Jewellers 32 Outstanding Coloured Gemstone Enterprise of the Year: 年度杰出彩宝企业： Belmont Emeralds 34 Young Entrepreneur of the Year: 年度青年企业家： Kobi Sevdermish, Advanced Quality ACC Ltd
36 JNA 40th ANNIVERSARY SPECIAL JNA 40周年 36 40 forces shaping the market of tomorrow 40股塑造未来市场的动力 Digital version 电子版： https://news.jewellerynet.com/en/publications 46 Multidimensional design trends to rule 2023 多維度设计將帶領2023潮流 56 Miranda Group lays out its business strategy 美宏达集团制定商业战略 58 Diamonds slowly regain their sparkle in China 中国钻石市场逐渐复苏 52 MARKET INTELLIGENCE 市场情报 52 JGT Dubai kickstarts trade comeback in 2023 迪拜JGT振兴2023年珠宝业贸易 42 DESIGN 设计 42 Red exuberance 大热红调
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DIGEST 8 | JNA January/February 2023 The Blue Lagoon ring by Gübelin Jewellery 古柏林珠宝的蓝色珊瑚礁(The Blue Lagoon)戒指 17% (Sorbis / Shutterstock.com) (Tobias Arhelger / Shutterstock.com) Hong Kong jewellery sales in November 2022, which represent an 8.3 per cent decline, data from the city's Census and Statistics Department showed. By comparison, sales in October last year had risen 13.6 per cent to HK$4 billion (around US$514.15 million), buoyed by governmentissued consumption vouchers. Hong Kong said further relaxation of Covid restrictions alongside an increase in tourist arrivals could support consumption moving forward. Weight in carats of a rare Burmese sapphire that is the centre gem of the “Blue Lagoon” cocktail ring by Gübelin Jewellery. The ring, inspired by the shapes, colours and structures of the Mergui Archipelago off the coast of Myanmar, is surrounded by a sweeping coterie of sapphires, tourmalines and diamonds in a sophisticated mixture of cuts. Burmese sapphires are highly treasured for their rich, deep shades of blue. According to Gübelin Jewellery, artisans spent over 300 hours creating the unique jewellery piece. Increase in global auction sales at Christie’s in 2022 to US$8.4 billion, with the art market accounting for US$6.22 billion, followed by the luxury category (jewellery, watches, handbags and wine) at US$988 million, representing 21 per cent and 2 per cent increases, respectively. Rival auction house Sotheby’s meanwhile projects total consolidated sales to reach new heights of US$8 billion for 2022, with fine art and luxury auction sales currently standing at US$6.4 billion. 香港政府统计处公布的2022年11月珠宝零售额，同比倒退 8.3%。比较之下，去年10月的零售额受特区政府发放的消费 券带动，因而上升13.6%至40亿港元(约5.1415亿美元)。特区 政府发言人表示，进一步放宽疫情限制和更多旅客访港，将 有望刺激消费活动。 古柏林珠宝“Blue Lagoon”鸡尾酒戒指的稀有缅甸蓝宝石主石之克拉重量。 这枚戒指的灵感来自缅甸丹老群岛的各种形态、色彩和层次结构，主石周围 环绕多排蓝宝石、碧玺和钻石，展现繁复多姿的切割工艺。该公司指出，工匠 们总共花上超过300个工时，才能完成这件独一无二的珠宝作品。 佳士得2022年的全球总成交额增幅，金额增至84亿美元。当 中艺术品占62.2亿美元，其次的奢侈品(珠宝、手表、包袋和 酒类)占9.88亿美元，增幅分别为21%和2%。另外，苏富比则 预计2022年的综合总成交额达到80亿美元新高，其中艺术 品和奢侈品的拍卖额目前为64亿美元。 HK$2.91B (around US$372.22M) 29.1亿港元 (约3.7222亿美元) 10.65 carats克拉
市场指标 JNA January/February 2023 | 9 5.4% Online Trade Updates 新闻快讯 GIA unveils fully digital Diamond Dossier GIA推出数字版钻石报告 I-PRIMO opens SEA flagship store I-PRIMO开设东南亚旗舰店 Steady sales at De Beers' 10th cycle 戴比尔斯第十周期成绩反映需求持续 The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) has officially launched a fully digital Diamond Dossier, marking a significant turn in the global diamond trade’s digital transformation. 美国宝石研究院(GIA)正式推出全数字版钻石鉴 定精简版报告(Diamond Dossier)，为全球钻石行 业数字化转型立下里程碑。 Renowned Japanese bridal jewellery brand I-PRIMO has bolstered its Asian presence with the opening of its first Southeast Asia flagship store in Singapore. 日本婚庆首饰品牌I-PRIMO在新加坡开设了第一 家东南亚旗舰店，以开拓其在亚洲的版图。 Rough diamond sales at De Beers Group’s final sales cycle of the year reached US$410 million, up from year-ago figures on the back of pre-holiday stocking and buyers preparing for China’s reopening. 戴比尔斯集团今年最后一个销售周期的毛坯钻石 销售额达到 4.1 亿美元，超出去年同期，并可归因 于买家在节日季度前补充货源和为中国市场重新 开放做好准备。 Our digital platform provides additional content for an even more comprehensive industry perspective. Scan the QR code for the full story and more trade news. 我们的数字平台载有更多更全面的 行业视角报道，请扫瞄二维码查看 全文和更多行业信息。 news.jewellerynet.com/en/jnanews Projected silver jewellery demand in million ounces in 2022, indicating a 29 per cent surge from 2021, according to the Silver Institute’s Interim Silver Market Review presented in New York last November. The institute attributed this to strong inventory replenishment ahead of the Indian festive and wedding season, following heavy stock depletion in 2021. Overall demand for silver is expected to have reached a new high of 1.21 billion ounces in 2022, up 16 per cent from the year before, driven by increases in industrial use, jewellery and silverware offtake and physical investment. Year-on-year drop in US jewellery sales during the holiday period of November 1 to December 24, 2022, according to Mastercard SpendingPulseTM, which measures in-store and online retail sales across all forms of payment. The figures are not adjusted for inflation. Overall US retail sales meanwhile rose 7.6 per cent. Steve Sadove, senior advisor for Mastercard and former CEO and chairman of Saks Inc, said, “Retailers discounted heavily but consumers diversified their holiday spending to accommodate rising prices and an appetite for experiences and festive gatherings post-pandemic.” 2022年11月1日至12月24日的假日季节期间，美国珠宝零售额之同比下 降幅度。数据由万事达卡SpendingPulseTM结集所有支付方式的实体店 和线上零售额所得，并未根据通货膨胀进行调整。与此同时，美国整体零 售额则增长了7.6%。万事达卡高级顾问兼Saks Inc前首席执行官及主席 Steve Sadove表示：“零售商虽然大幅打折，但消费者亦以不同方式进行 假日消费，以应对物价不断上涨的压力，并满足疫情后对休闲体验和节 日聚会的渴求。” 去年11月世界白银协会于纽 约发布的《白银市场中期评 估报告》中，预计2022年白银 首饰的需求量(以百万盎司为 单位)，比2021年飙升29%。 该协会指出，继库存在2021 年大幅消耗后，印度市场在 节日和婚礼旺季前呈现大量 补充库存的现象，因此推高 需求量。受工业用途、珠宝及 银器销售，以及实物投资增 加的推动，2022年的白银总 需求量估计达到12.1亿盎司新高，同比上升16%。 235 Moz Silver ring 银戒指
FOCUS 10 | JNA January/February 2023 Industry stakeholders are banking on continued improvements in global businesses and consumption sentiment to fuel jewellery and gemstone sales in 2023. With China – an influential jewellery and gemstone market – gradually reopening, demand could further strengthen by the second quarter of the year amid ongoing headwinds in the US and Europe, revealed diamond and coloured gemstone suppliers. Jewellers welcome China’s lifting of strict lockdown and quarantine regulations in early December 2022 as it exits its strict zero-Covid policy. Hong Kong, meanwhile, further eased restrictions on arrivals, ending its “0+3” medical surveillance regime. There is also growth to be had in the high-end gemstone and jewellery segment, driven by affluent consumers whose purchasing power remains impervious to market-moving challenges. The rarer the gem, the more coveted it will be among big-ticket buyers, according to gemstone dealers. Retailers have high expectations, too, with major jewellers anticipating a steady turnaround in consumption and economic activity. The sector also stands to benefit from the market’s growing desire to celebrate occasions and experiences with jewellery and from the rise in prominence of a younger generation of financially independent and discerning clientele. The year 2023 will also mark further developments in digitalisation and sustainability as companies update their business strategies to progressively incorporate these movements in their day-to-day activities. Jewellery collections, meanwhile, are expected to mirror evolving 珠宝行业：在2023年的 不确定因素下保持乐观 Optimism amid uncertainties in 2023 Jewellery trade: Jewellery and gemstone traders are confident of a meaningful and sustainable market reopening in 2023, driven by buyers’ strong affinity for jewellery in the face of ongoing geopolitical and economic instability. 在买家对珠宝有强烈渴求的推动下，纵使迎向持续的地 缘政治和经济不稳定因素，珠宝和宝石贸易商对市场在2023年有意义和可持续地重开保持信心。 | Bernardette Sto. Domingo 杜明高 |
焦点 JNA January/February 2023 | 11 The Chinese market returning to normal will bring about massive demand in the second quarter of 2023. I expect China to bounce back – same with the US after it opened post-Covid. Chinese consumers will return and will want to buy diamonds. We anticipate a very good year. – Yoram Dvash, president of the World Federation of Diamond Bourses Dvash attributed downturns in recent months to dwindling demand amid business and Covid-related uncertainties in China and the US, describing this as the market “abating” after a boom. Growth in 2023 hinges upon markets fully returning to pre-pandemic activities, continued the WFDB official. Hong Kong further easing its Covid policies is a move in the right direction as China could soon follow suit. “The Chinese market returning to normal will bring about massive demand in the second quarter of 2023,” he explained. “I expect China to bounce back – same with the US after it opened post-Covid. Chinese consumers will return and will want to buy diamonds. We anticipate a very good year.” The industry is also counting on China’s reopening to stir up demand and consumer spending in the neighbouring markets of Asia, which will be advantageous to the jewellery and diamond industry, continued Dvash. Even with pandemic-related restrictions, buyers would still look for top-quality, Gemological Institute of America (GIA)-certified diamonds of 2 carats and above, revealed Nelson Shah of Sunrise Diamonds Ltd of Hong Kong. “We specialise in GIA diamonds, which are constantly sought after in the trade. These include fancy-shaped diamonds of 2 carats and up in D to G colours, and flawless to VS1 clarity grades,” added Shah. Industry players expect this trend to persist in 2023, but majority of the growth will depend on the Chinese economy and further changes to its Covid policy. Meanwhile, exceptionality is the name of the game in the fancy colour diamond business, with the rarest and most stunning stones continuing to enjoy solid demand from collectors and the high-end market in general. consumer behaviours and preferences – perhaps leaning more towards designs that are expressive, more grounded and incredibly meaningful to the buyer. Resilient diamonds Industry players described 2022 as a relatively good year for the diamond sector despite a slowdown in the second quarter of last year. According to Yoram Dvash, president of the World Federation of Diamond Bourses (WFDB), 2022 saw a generally solid demand for all sizes, colours and clarities. Major markets however reported lacklustre diamond trade towards the end of the year – India and Israel both saw high double-digit dips in polished exports. Rough diamond sales at De Beers’ 2022 Sightholder auctions remain positive though, exhibiting steady year-onyear growth, which the miner traced to robust consumer demand. At its 9th sales cycle, De Beers raked in US$450 million, up 2.7 per cent from the same period in 2021.
FOCUS 12 | JNA January/February 2023 According to Paul Chieveley-Williams of Belgium-based Diamwill, the fancy colour diamond business performed strongly in 2022, led by renewed interest in yellow diamonds, followed by pinks. With the 2020 closure of the Argyle diamond mine, which accounts for over 90 per cent of the world’s natural pink diamond supply, demand for diamonds in light, saturated pinks only strengthened further. Chieveley-Williams explained, “Everyone talks about blue and pink diamonds, but yellows are coming back to the fore, thanks to big brands frequently using them in their new collections.” Prices, specifically for premium-quality goods, have risen by around 15 per cent compared to pre-Covid levels, he added. Fancy colour diamonds are also viewed as ideal and cost-effective alternatives to white diamonds, especially in light of supply constraints arising from the Ukraine war. Diamwill’s major clients are from the US and Germany, revealed Chieveley-Williams, adding that the industry is hoping for the Asian market to pick up in 2023. Luxury gems Dealers are generally very optimistic about the fancy colour diamond sector in 2023, continued ChieveleyWilliams. One promising aspect of the business is the market’s growing penchant for rarity and unmatched artistry in their choice of gemstones and jewellery design. “Fancy colour diamonds, especially the larger ones, are pieces of art. They are so rare that buying them is almost the same as owning a Van Gogh or a Michelangelo painting,” shared Chieveley-Williams. “Craftsmanship, expertise and beauty – these make fancy colour diamonds irreplaceable.” The sector will receive steady support from a more discerning and sophisticated clientele, led by affluent and knowledgeable Asian consumers, the diamond specialist said. “Asians tend to be very well-informed. They have an eye for exceptionality,” he noted. Rahul Jain, director of gemstone company Caram eK, likewise sees the high-end market as a bright spot in the international gem and jewellery industry in 2023. “The luxury sector is expected to be more stable amid ongoinguncertainties. Big-ticket consumers are less affected by price hikes. There is also an element of collectability to special, finer-quality gems. Bespoke jewellery pieces will also do well this year,” shared Jain. He expects buyers to carry on investing in art, gemstones and jewellery amid continued economic and political instabilities. Colourful projections Clement Sabbagh, president of the International Colored Gemstone Association, is counting on sustained recovery in major economies coupled with improving consumption sentiment to support the coloured gemstone business in 2023. Ruby, sapphire and emerald – collectively known in the trade as the “Big Three” – are likely to fuel growth, as top markets the US, Europe and Asia continue sourcing these gems. The industry has been witnessing high double-digit price hikes for premium gemstones over the past two years, indicating a persistent uptick in the market, noted Sabbagh, adding that prices are likely to increase further, especially for top-quality gems. “Our outlook is positive, with the big three – sapphire, ruby and emerald – leading business recovery,” he remarked. “The market is more cautious because of macroeconomic uncertainties and fears of recession in 2023, but we remain upbeat about prospects in the gemstone trade.” Besides the big three, other gemstones are likely to remain popular in 2023, including spinel; tsavorite; tourmaline in different shades of green, blue and red; Paraiba tourmaline and aquamarine. These gems had a strong following in 2022 and this trend is expected to continue in 2023. Some gemstones however are more difficult to source nowadays, which could lead to further price hikes. Meanwhile, red gemstones are also poised to gain more traction in 2023, with the Pantone Color Institute naming Viva Magenta – a shade displaying vivid crimson hues – as colour of the year. Radiating vigour and vibrancy, Viva Magenta is expected to inspire jewellery designs highlighting the beauty of ruby and rubellite as well as red spinel and garnet. Also falling within this colour category are rhodochrosite and red jasper, among others. Jain of Caram eK said market appetite for peridot is also on the rise alongside spinels; tourmalines bearing minty, bluish-green hues; and vivid orange stones like mandarin garnet and imperial topaz. Pearl outlook The pearl sector is also relying on China’s reopening to further promote sales. George Kakuda, chairman of the Japan Pearl Exporters Association (JPEA), explained that the Japanese pearl business is back on the track, buoyed by steady demand from Japan, China, the US and Europe coupled with a softening of the Japanese yen. Japanese Akoya and white South Sea pearls were the stars of the industry last year, he added.
焦点 JNA January/February 2023 | 13 Kakuda said he expects solid demand to continue in the first half of 2023, but the market’s direction will largely depend on China’s economic performance. JPEA is likewise looking forward to a more dynamic 2023 as it plans to organise more pearl auctions throughout the year. For instance, multiple white South Sea pearl auctions will be held simultaneously in March 2023. A B2B pearl fair, which allows online and in-person trading, is also in the offing. JPEA held the first edition of its B2B fair in October last year. “We have tested the market on whether wholesale trade of pearls can take place online and we have proven its effectiveness,” revealed Kakuda. “We would also like to promote the pearl trade in Kobe, which is a highly convenient market. In addition, we will also strengthen our sustainability initiatives in pearl farming and pearl processing.” Jewellers Tom Heyman, third-generation jeweller and co-president of renowned luxury jeweller Oscar Heyman, is confident about prospects for the jewellery sector in 2023, driven largely by the market’s growing fascination for finer-quality, everyday jewellery. The company, which has been around for 110 years, is also seeing heightened desire among today’s buyers to celebrate occasions such as birthdays, engagements and holidays, and commemorate these through jewellery. Designer Tayma Page Allies, founder and creative director of Tayma Fine Jewellery, shared this sentiment, adding that jewellery has always captivated men and women for thousands of years and this aspiration and appreciation for bespoke, gem-studded pieces will only grow stronger. Allies observed a growing fascination for bright green tourmaline and peridot as well as hot orange spessartite garnet and pink tourmaline. Opals too are finding favour among buyers. Nature-inspired jewellery pieces, for instance, will continue to be highly sought after in the Hong Kong market, she revealed. 持份者认为，全球业务和消费情绪的日趋改善，将 推动2023年的珠宝和宝石销售。钻石和彩色宝石 供应商透露，随着中国——一个具影响力的珠宝 和宝石市场逐渐重新开放，在美国和欧洲的持续逆风中，需 求可能在今年第二季度进一步加强。 珠宝商们欢迎中国在2022年12月初取消严格的封城和 防疫规定，清零政策放松。与此同时，香港地区再度放宽对 入境者的限制，结束了“0+3”医学监察制度。 在富裕消费者的推动下，高端宝石和珠宝领域也有增 长，他们的购买力仍然不受市场变化的挑战影响。据宝石交 易商称，越是稀有的宝石，越受大额买家的垂青。 同时，零售商也有很高的期望，主要的珠宝商预计消费 和经济活动将稳步转好。人们日渐采用珠宝庆祝各种场合 和经历的愿望，经济独立、眼光敏锐的年轻一代客户的崛起 等，都是零售商于巿场获益的原因。 除此之外，2023年还将标志着数字化和可持续性的进一 步发展，因为是公司将更新其业务战略，逐步在日常工作中 实践这受大众关注的项目。同时，珠宝系列有望反映出不断 变化的消费者行为和偏好——也许更倾向于具有表现力的 设计，对购买者有着更接地气及不可思议的意义。 钻石行业的韧性 业内人士形容2022年是钻石行业相对较好的一年，尽 管去年第二季度有所放缓。根据世界钻石交易所联合会 (WFDB)主席Yoram Dvash所述，消费者在2022年对所有尺 寸、颜色和净度的需求普遍稳固。 然而，主要市场在年底时报告钻石贸易不景气——印度 和以色列的抛光钻石出口都出现了高两位数的下滑。 不过，戴比尔斯2022年的看货商拍卖会上的毛坯钻石销 售仍然是积极的，呈现出稳定的同比增长，该矿商将此归因 于强劲的消费者需求。在第9个销售周期，戴比尔斯公司营 业额为4.5亿美元，比2021年同期上升了2.7% 。 Dvash将最近几个月的下跌是由于中美贸易，以及与防 疫相关的不确定性导致，他把这现况描述为市场在繁荣之 后的“走弱”。WFDB官员续说，2023年的增长取决于市场 能否完全恢复到疫情前的活动。香港地区进一步放宽其防 疫政策是一个正确的方向，因为中国内地可能很快会仿效。 “中国市场恢复正常，将在2023年第二季度带来大量需 求，”他解释说。“我预计中国会反弹——美国在后疫情时代 开放后也是如此。中国的消费者会回来，并有意购买钻石。 我们预计会有一个非常好的年份”。 该行业还指望中国的重新开放能激起亚洲周边市场的 需求和消费支出，这对珠宝和钻石行业是有利的，Dvash补 充道。香港Sunrise Diamonds Ltd.的Nelson Shah透露，即使 碰上与防疫相关的限制，买家仍然会寻找顶级的、经美国宝 石学院(GIA)认证的2克拉及以上的钻石。 “我们专门经营附有GIA鉴定报告的钻石，这些钻石在 贸易中不断受到追捧，当中包括2克拉及以上的花式切割钻 石，颜色为D到G，净度为VS1。”Shah补充说。 业内人士估计，这一趋势将在2023年持续下去，但大部 分增长将视乎中国经济和他们对防疫政策的进一步修改。 同时，独一无二是彩钻业务的特点，最稀有和最令人惊 叹的宝石继续享有收藏家和一般高端市场的坚实需求。 据总部位于比利时的Diamwill公司的Paul ChieveleyWilliams称，2022年彩钻业务表现凌厉，主要是消费者对黄 钻重新产生兴趣，其次是粉钻。随着占世界天然粉红钻石供 应量90%以上的阿盖尔钻石矿在2020年关闭，人们对淡色 调、饱和粉红钻石的需求只会加强。
FOCUS 14 | JNA January/February 2023 玺；帕拉伊巴碧玺和海蓝宝石。这些宝石在2022年有大量的 追随者，预计这一趋势在2023年将继续下去。然而，有些宝 石现在更难采购，这可能导致价格持续攀升。 同时，红色宝石也准备在2023年大放异彩，彩通色彩研 究所将Viva Magenta(非凡洋红)——一种鲜艳深红色彩命 名为年度代表色。Viva Magenta散发着活力和生机，预料将 激发珠宝设计，凸显红宝石和红碧玺，以及红色尖晶石和石 榴石的美态。属于这一颜色类别的还有红柱石和红碧玉等。 Caram eK的Jain说，市场对橄榄石的需求也在上升，同 时还有尖晶石；带有薄荷色、蓝绿色的碧玺；以及橘色石榴 石和帝王托帕石等鲜艳的橙色宝石。 珍珠行业展望 珍珠业则依靠中国的重新开放以促进销售。日本珍珠出 口商协会(JPEA)主席George Kakuda解释说，在日本、中国、 美国和欧洲的稳定需求和日元走软的推动下，日本的珍珠 业务已重回正轨。他补充说，日本Akoya珍珠和白色南洋珍 珠是业界的明星。 Kakuda预计2023年上半年将继续保持稳固的需求，但 市场的走向将主要取决于中国的经济表现。 JPEA期待着更有活力的2023年的来临，因为该协会已 计划在全年筹办更多的珍珠拍卖会，多场白色南洋珍珠拍 卖会将于2023年3月同期举行。另外，JPEA还计划举办一个 B2B珍珠展，允许在线和现场交易。该协会于去年10月举办 了第一届B2B展会。 “我们已经测试了珍珠批发贸易是否可在网上进行，我 们已经证明了其有效性，”Kakuda透露。“我们也希望在神 户促进珍珠贸易，这是一个非常便利的市场。此外，我们还 将加强我们在珍珠养殖和珍珠加工方面的可持续性举措。” 珠宝商 著名珠宝商Oscar Heyman的第三代传人兼联合主席 Tom Heyman对2023年珠宝行业的展望充满信心，他认为 驱动力主要源自市场对更精致的日常珠宝的迷恋。 这家已经有110年历史的公司还注意到，如今的买家对 庆祝生日、订婚和节日等场合的愿望越来越强烈，并以珠宝 来纪念这些难忘的时刻。 Tayma Fine Jewellery的创始人兼创意总监Tayma Page Allies也有同感，她补充说，几千年来，珠宝一直吸引着男人 和女人，这种对定制的、镶有宝石的珠宝的渴望和欣赏只会 愈发 而强烈。 Allies则观察到，人们对亮绿色的碧玺和橄榄石，以及 热橘色的锰铝榴石和粉红色的碧玺趋之若鹜。欧泊也得到 了买家的爱戴。她透露，例如受自然启发的珠宝作品，将继 续在香港地区市场上受到追捧。 Chieveley-Williams解释说：“每个人都在谈论蓝色和粉 红色的钻石，但由于大品牌在其新系列中经常使用黄色，这 色调又再次成为人们关注的焦点。”他补充说，与疫情之前 的水平比较，价格——特别是优质商品的价格——已经上涨 了约15% 彩钻也。 被视为白钻的理想和具有成本效益的替代品，特 别是考虑到乌克兰战争造成的供应限制。Chieveley-Williams 透露，Diamwill的主要客户来自美国和德国，但补充说该行 业希望亚洲市场在2023年回升。 奢华宝石 经销商普遍对2023年的彩钻行业非常乐观，ChieveleyWilliams续说，市场在选择宝石和珠宝设计时，对稀有度和 无可比拟的艺术性青睐有加，这是令行业充满展望的一个 元素“ 。彩钻，尤其是较大的彩钻，是艺术的结晶。它们是如此 罕见，以至于购买大颗彩钻，几乎等同拥有一幅梵高或米开 朗基罗的画作，”Chieveley-Williams分享道。“工艺、专业知 识和美感——这些使彩钻变得无可替代。” 钻石专家说，该行业将从更有鉴赏力和更有见识的客户 群中获得稳定的支持，由富裕和知识渊博的亚洲消费者领 导。“亚洲人往往是非常懂行的，”他指出：“他们有一双辨识 卓越的眼睛。宝石公司Caram eK的主管Rahul Jain同样认 为，高端市场是2023年国际宝石和珠宝行业的一个亮点。 “在持续的不确定性下，奢侈品行业预计将更加稳定。 高额商品的消费者受价格上涨的影响较小。对于特殊的、质 量较好的宝石，也有收集的因素。定制的珠宝作品今年也会 做得很好，”Jain分享道。他预计，在持续的经济和政治不稳 定中，买家将继续投资于艺术品、宝石和珠宝。 多彩展望 国际有色宝石协会主席Clement Sabbagh寄望主要经济 体的持续复苏，加上消费情绪的改善，以支持2023年的彩色 宝石业务。红宝石、蓝宝石和祖母绿——在业界被统称“三 大宝石”很可能会推动增长，因为美国、欧洲和亚洲等顶级 市场继续采购这些宝石。 Sabbagh指出，在过去两年中，该行业一直见证着优质 宝石价格以高两位数上升，表明市场持续增长，他补充说， 价格可能会逐步上扬，特别是顶级宝石。 他说：“我们的展望是积极的，三大宝石——蓝宝石、红宝 石和祖母绿，将引领业务复苏。“由于宏观经济的不确定性 和对2023年经济衰退的担忧，市场更加谨慎，但我们对宝石 贸易的展望仍持乐观态度。” 除了三大宝石外，其他宝石在2023年可能仍然受欢迎， 包括尖晶石、沙弗莱石、不同色调的绿色、蓝色和红色的碧 1.4% Hike in prices of fancy yellow diamonds in the third quarter of 2022, buoyed by strong market demand, data from the Fancy Color Research Foundation showed. Yellow diamonds registered the highest increase during the period in review. Average prices tracked using the Fancy Color Diamond Index were up 1 per cent across all fancy colour diamond colours and sizes in Q3. 彩钻研究基金会的数据显示，受到强劲的市场需求带动，2022年第三季度的黄钻价格上涨了1.4%。在本报告所述期间， 黄钻价格的增幅最大。而在第三季度，使用彩钻指数追踪的所有彩钻颜色和尺寸的平均价格均上升了1%。
软文 JNA January/February 2023 | 15 铂金是奥斯卡·海曼公司(Oscar Heyman)的传统和 愿景的核心，这家历史悠久的奢华珠宝公司以最 美丽的宝石为特色，制作瑰丽珠宝。 创始人Oscar Heyman和兄弟们在20世纪00年代起学习 珠宝制作技术，并师承Fabergé。因为铂金的美观、强度和质 量，当时各大品牌纷纷将其用于镶嵌宝石的珠宝作品，以及 装饰艺术的设计。他们的铂金专业知识构成了公司的基础， 并于1912年成立，作为领先奢华珠宝品牌的制造商，建立了 “珠宝商的珠宝商”的声誉，随后发展成为一个同样著名的 独立品牌。多年来，铂金在奥斯卡·海曼公司的几大里程碑 设计中出现过，例如其经典的花卉设计和为传奇的爱情之 钻Taylor-Burton设计的项链，至今仍是该品牌珠宝美学的一 个重 据要 主组 席成部分。 Tom Heyman介绍，铂金使该品牌能够不断创新， 探索如何弯曲和扭转金属以镶嵌宝石，从而硏发出崭新的 瑰丽款式。它的延展性、稳定性和强度，使其能够制作复杂 精巧的珠宝。同时，铂金的几个部件可以焊接在一起，运用 在项链和手镯的细线加工中，能够打造出更加细致的作品。 “铂金确实是我们的核心。在大多数情况下，铂金适用 于大部分宝石和珠宝。我们可以放心地把一颗30至40克拉 的D级无瑕钻石镶嵌在铂金吊坠镶座上，毫无顾虑。由铂金 制造的珠宝作品，予人一种代代相传的安全感和信心，”他 解释道。“几乎在所有情况下，我们甚至不会讨论在新设计 中使用哪种金属，而会默认采用铂金。” 多年来，铂金行业的开拓者们不断探索新的技术和制造 方法，如铸造、3D打印和粉末冶金技术，以拓展铂金首饰的 领域。国际铂金协会(PGI®)坚定不移地履行其使命，竭力支 持行业创新和协助铂金首饰设计达到新高度。 Platinum is central to the heritage and vision of Oscar Heyman, the storied luxury jewellery house that produces magnificent creations featuring the finest of gemstones. Founder Oscar Heyman and his brothers learned their jewellery-making skills and had an apprenticeship with Fabergé in the 1900s when major brands widely used platinum in their gem-set jewellery pieces and Art Deco designs due to its beauty, strength and quality. Their platinum expertise formed the foundation of the company when it launched in 1912 as a manufacturer for leading luxury jewellery names, establishing a reputation as “the jeweller’s jeweller,” before evolving into an equally prestigious independent brand. Platinum figured in several Oscar Heyman milestones over the years such as its classic floral designs and a necklace for the legendary Taylor-Burton Diamond and, to this day, remains an integral part of the brand’s jewellery aesthetic. According to chairman Tom Heyman, platinum enables the brand to be innovative and explore ways to bend and twist the metal to inlay gemstones and produce new spectacular designs. Its malleability, stability and strength allow the production of sophisticated jewellery. Several pieces can be soldered together while thin wirework in necklaces and bracelets result in exquisite creations. “Platinum is really central to who we are. It is the appropriate metal in most cases for most stones and for most pieces of jewellery. We can confidently set a 30- to 40-carat D-colour flawless diamond as a pendant in a platinum setting without any concerns. Platinum gives a sense of security and confidence that the jewellery piece will be handed down from generation to generation,” he explained. “In almost all situations, we do not even discuss which metal to use for a new design. It is by default platinum.” Through the years, the pioneers in the platinum industry continually explore new technologies and manufacturing methods such as casting, 3D printing and powder additive technology to stretch the boundaries of platinum jewellery. Platinum Guild International (PGI) remains steadfast in its mission to support trade innovation and help platinum jewellery design reach new heights. Platinum jewellery manufacturing at Oscar Heyman; TomHeyman, chairman of Oscar Heyman 奥斯卡·海曼的铂金珠宝制作过程; 奥斯卡·海曼的主席TomHeyman Oscar Heyman: Over a Century with Platinum Platinum’s strength, stability and flexibility make it the metal of choice of luxury jewellery brand Oscar Heyman. 铂金的强度、稳定性和灵活性使其成为 奢华珠宝品牌Oscar Heyman的首选金属。 OSCAR HEYMAN: 钟情铂金逾百年
FOCUS 16 | JNA January/February 2023 If results of last year’s jewellery auctions are any indication, then 2023 is shaping up to be yet another favourable year for this vital sector in the international gemstone and jewellery industry. According to major auction houses, sales in 2022 benefited from the market’s growing fascination for exceptional and valuable gems as buyers increasingly favour provenance, compelling narratives and inimitable quality when making buying decisions. Among last year’s top-performing lots were ultra-rare fancy colour diamonds, large white diamonds and an eclectic collection of diamond- and gem-studded jewellery, and signed pieces. These results indicate consumers’ enduring preference for top-quality, collectible items as well as the resilience of perennial favourites such as diamonds and the coloured gemstone trio of rubies, sapphires and emeralds, and other emerging gems. Other promising developments in the auction sector are the rise in prominence of Asian collectors as well as digital transformations. Solid growth in jewellery auction sales is also hinged upon further relaxation and total lifting of Covid restrictions around the world. Coveted jewels Five of Sotheby’s top 10 most valuable items sold at auction last year were in the luxury category and from these were two phenomenal diamonds, revealed Uni Kim, jewellery specialist at Sotheby’s. The Williamson Pink Star diamond sold in Hong Kong for US$57.8 million and now holds the world record for any diamond and gemstone price per carat at auction. The De Beers Blue diamond meanwhile achieved US$57.5 million also at Sotheby’s Hong Kong. According to Kim, fancy colour diamonds are desired for their exceptional hues, with the rarest of the rare finding favour among collectors. Diamonds were also the stars of Christie’s auctions – the Fortune Pink diamond, which fetched US$28.8 million in Geneva, became the largest pear-shaped, fancy vivid pink diamond ever to be sold at auction at 18.18 carats. The Rock, the largest white diamond ever offered at auction at 228.31 carats, meanwhile attained US$21.7 million at Christie’s Geneva. Top-performing lots in Hong Kong included an exceptional jadeite bead necklace and an exquisite | Bernardette Sto. Domingo 杜明高 | 珠宝拍卖业的璀璨机遇 jewellery auction sector Brilliant possibilities in Rarity, provenance and refined designs will continue to drive demand for jewellery pieces at auction, with the further easing of Covid restrictions fuelling stronger sales throughout the year. 稀有性、原產地和精致设计将带动拍卖会上竞投者对珠宝的需求，而新冠 疫情限制的进一步放宽，将推动 2023 年的拍卖活动交出更亮丽的成绩。
焦点 JNA January/February 2023 | 17 diamond rivière necklace, which were snapped up for US$8.8 million and US$6 million, respectively. In November 2022, Christie’s offered jewellery pieces from an impeccably curated collection of Hong Kong actress Rosamund Kwan. The collection, featuring a variety of gemstones and jewellery pieces by Cartier, Buccellati, Bulgari, Van Cleef & Arpels, Louis Vuitton and Boghossian, captivated an international audience and achieved over US$11 million. Signed jewels also drew attention at Sotheby’s auctions, including a Van Cleef & Arpels turquoise parure and the Les Oiseaux Libérés’ diamond, emerald, sapphire and motherof-pearl bracelet and earrings by Cartier. According to Kim, rarity and provenance are high on the list of buyers when bidding for jewellery items. “We are consistently seeing a drive for the most collectible pieces that are getting harder to find,” she noted. “Pink diamond demand has increased since the closure of the Argyle diamond mine in Australia, and specimens with a strong saturation paired with good clarity are usually one of a kind.” Interest in Kashmir sapphires, Burmese rubies and Colombian emeralds without treatments are similarly on the uptick as these gems become scarcer by the day. Vickie Sek, chairman of jewellery department at Christie’s Asia Pacific, said results of its major auctions demonstrate the perpetual charm of refined jewellery pieces and extraordinary gems amid global uncertainties. “In addition, they demonstrate the allure of singleowner collections that have been passionately assembled by an individual with a sophisticated eye and a superb sense of style,” noted Sek. Gems and vintage jewellery The Hong Kong government’s decision to loosen up pandemic regulations last year allowed more international clients to travel to Hong Kong for auction previews, according to Charlene Lau, head of department at Phillips Jewels in Hong Kong. “We have seen more clients participating in our November 2022 fall auction compared to our June auction, resulting in a 125 per cent increase from the previous season,” disclosed Lau. Ruby, sapphire and emerald remained “very resilient,” with stellar performances by top-quality gemstones. Among the highlights of Phillips Jewel’s offerings last year were an emerald and diamond ring (HK$1.03 million/ US$131,755); a fancy intense pink diamond and diamond ring (HK$ 7.14 million/US$913,350); a fancy vivid yellow diamond ring (HK$2.39 million/US$305,729); and a 26.12carat unmounted round brilliant-cut diamond (HK$19.61 million/US$2.5 million). Stewart Young, Bonhams director of jewellery and head of department, Asia, also attested to solid market demand for diamond, ruby, sapphire and jadeite. Paraiba tourmaline is also a rising star in the auction world. At its Hong Kong and Jewels and Jadeite sale in June 2022, Bonhams sold a rare Paraiba tourmaline and diamond ring of 5.09 carats for HK$2.96 million (around US$378,657) and a 63.01-carat Paraiba tourmaline and diamond ring for HK$1.38 million (approximately US$176,536) in November last year. “Exceptional stones still attract collectors and connoisseurs and generate high prices at auction,” remarked Young. “We also see increasing prices and extremely strong results for fancy colour diamonds while larger-carat gemstones with high degree of clarity are still highly sought after.” Young likewise cited robust buyer interest in heritage names such as Cartier, Tiffany & Co and Van Cleef & Arpels. Bonhams successfully auctioned off a privately owned collection of exceptional Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co pieces in Hong Kong last November, achieving HK$8 million (about US$1.02 million). The 11.15-carat Williamson Pink Star diamond sold at Sotheby’s Hong Kong for US$57.8 million 重11.15克拉的Williamson Pink Star钻石在香港苏富比以5,780万美元成交 Exceptional stones still attract collectors and connoisseurs and generate high prices at auction. We also see increasing prices and extremely strong results for fancy colour diamonds while larger-carat gemstones with high degree of clarity are still highly sought after. – Stewart Young, Bonhams director of Jewellery &Head of Department, Asia
FOCUS 18 | JNA January/February 2023 Asian collectors’ spend on jewellery in Christie’s AsiaPacific salesrooms rose 10 per cent in 2022 from prepandemic 2019 as they continue to participate in major luxury sales abroad. “Asians contributed nearly half of the bought hammer value to our Geneva Luxury Week sales in November 2022, and this included the successful bid for the Fortune Pink diamond by a buyer from APAC,” revealed Sek. APAC buyers contributed US$1.8 billion or 26 per cent to Christie’s global auctions in 2022 – the highest annual contribution on record since 2015. Digital initiatives Moving forward, digitalisation will remain a crucial part of auction houses' business strategies. Christie’s, for instance, is investing heavily in digital initiatives, especially in Asia, according to Francis Belin, president of Christie’s Asia Pacific. The auction house is making online bidding more accessible than ever as clients can now bid via Christie’s Live mobile app. It is also the only international auction house to allow bidding directly through its WeChat Mini Program, explained Belin. It will likewise continue to livestream its sales events across multiple platforms through Christie’s Live and its WeChat channel. “An increasing number of clients and art and luxury enthusiasts are tuning in to our dynamic live sales – for example, during our Hong Kong Autumn Auctions, we partnered with Douyin (China’s version of TikTok) and our livestream viewership reached a monumental high of 38 million viewers,” shared Belin. Christie’s is also aiming to further cultivate its social media platforms in Asia by engaging audiences through informative, high-quality content. It currently has 230,000 followers on WeChat; 200,000 on RED; 61,000 on Weibo; and 1.7 million on Instagram, which is a dedicated platform for Asia, Korea and Japan. Sotheby’s is also a driving force in digital innovations in the auction market since pre-Covid. According to Kim, demand is consistent in the company’s digital platforms, which will continue to be an integral part of its events. Antique jewellery meanwhile made waves at UK-based Fellows’ sales events, according to Fellows Auctioneer and Business Development Manager Nicola Whittaker. Buyers were also on the lookout for trendy stones like tourmalines and contemporary pieces from renowned jewellers like Tiffany & Co and Cartier. Among the company’s top offerings in 2022 were fine jewellery pieces such as an early to mid-20th century platinum old-cut diamond single-stone ring, with circular-cut diamond foliate gallery and shoulders that sold for £90,000 (around US$108,421); an Art Deco platinum diamond geometric bracelet by Cartier, which fetched £55,000 (around US$66,257); and a rectangular-shape diamond “Lia” ring by Cartier, which achieved £96,000 (around US$904,241). Antique pieces also performed well, including a late 19th century 18-karat gold floral band ring; a 19th century gold star locket; a late Victorian 18-karat gold old-cut diamond snake ring; and an early 20th century gold rose-cut diamond jabot pin brooch. Fellows also observed soaring interest in moonstones and tourmalines. “The main bright spot for us was welcoming people back into our offices in Birmingham and London – whether that was our events, having people in the room for live auctions or valuation days,” shared Whittaker. Asian collectors Notwithstanding global economic instability and the Covid crisis, Sotheby’s has grown consistently since 2019, with bidders from Asia becoming a force to reckon with in the auction business. Kim said Asians account for over 60 per cent of total bidders in Hong Kong auctions, followed by the US and Europe, signalling the depth of demand for highquality gems and jewellery in the region. Asians are gravitating towards unique pieces including period jewels such as a Belle Époque diamond pendent necklace by Cartier. Sek of Christie’s affirmed the growing influence of Asian buyers in jewellery auctions, not only in Hong Kong but overseas, including London, Geneva and New York. This exquisite diamond rivière necklace sold for US$6 million at Christie’s Hong Kong © Christie’s Images Limited 2022 这条钻石项链在香港佳士得以600万美元成交
焦点 JNA January/February 2023 | 19 Sotheby’s Buy Now online platform, for example, allows collectors to buy and sell beyond the traditional auction calendar, granting them a 24/7, 365-day access to luxury, fine and decorative art and objects at a variety of price points. Kim said 91 per cent of its auction bids are placed online. Digital initiatives are also critical elements of business generation campaigns, promotion and selling, according to Lau of Phillips Jewels. “PhillipsJewels’ fall auction in2022sawanunprecedented level of online bidding activity, with 78 per cent of total participants participating online,” shared Lau. “Expanding our online auctions since 2021 has successfully attracted a new generation of international bidders. We will continue to develop our online capabilities in the years to come.” 2023 onwards Christie’s is cautiously optimistic about business in 2023 but steady demand in Asia, coupled with significant improvements in travel restrictions in Hong Kong, China and the wider region, could bode well for growth in Asia, explained Belin. With travel almost back on track, the company is gearing up for in-person events once again. “While there may undoubtedly be some hesitancy in the market, we will continue to engage and empower collectors through inspiring and educational non-selling exhibitions and initiatives, and thoughtfully curated sales,” he added. Whittaker of Fellows is also taking into account global uncertainties that could continue to impact the auction business, but this should not be a deterrent to success. Throughout the year, the company will focus on delivering a positive auction process for bidders and vendors. Fellows is holding more than 120 auctions in 2023. Sotheby’s meanwhile is more upbeat about 2023 as the company celebrates its 50th anniversary in Asia. Cementing its commitment to further growing its business in the region is the opening of a new state-of-the art exhibition space in Hong Kong in 2024 and a new headquarters in Shanghai. “We hope to be able to lead a strong year with our exhibitions and auctions throughout Asia as the market opens in Hong Kong and beyond. We are also optimistic about our future growth in Hong Kong and China,” remarked Kim. Lau of Phillips Jewels revealed that international clients are increasingly viewing jewellery as a collecting category, the same way as fine art, and this trend is expected to continue in 2023. “In turbulent times, collectors/investors look for new opportunities to preserve and grow their wealth, so they buy exceptional jewels and gems to build or boost their collections,” she noted. A gemstone’s origin alongside its natural beauty sans any treatment will continue to influence buying decisions at auctions. Kashmir and Burmese sapphires, “Pigeon’s Blood” Burmese rubies, Colombian no-oil emeralds with high degrees of clarity as well as fancy colour diamonds will also be highly coveted, added Lau. Bonhams’ Young said jewellery trends will take cues from the fashion industry in 2023. For example, pearls and brooches are currently making waves in fashion circles, and Bonhams has witnessed rising appetite for these items in recent sales. Heritage names are also expected to perform well in the market as much as the individual stones. “Collectors who are already investing in high-quality gemstones will continue to do so in 2023. There is an understanding that very high-quality and rare pieces, which appear at auction do not come to the market often and buyers are therefore keen on securing them regardless of the overall market sentiment,” explained Young. The Rock, the largest white diamond ever offered at auction at 228.31 carats, sold for US$21.7 million at Christie’s Geneva © Christie’s Images Limited 2022; the 15.10-carat De Beers Blue diamond achieved US$57.5 million at Sotheby’s Hong Kong; an emerald and diamond ring offered by Phillips Jewels inHong Kong; the 18.18-carat Fortune Pink diamond fetchedUS$28.8million at Christie’s Geneva © Christie’s Images Limited 2022 The Rock，一颗228.31克拉的白钻，在日内瓦佳士得以2,170万美元成交; 重15.10克拉的De Beers Blue钻石在香港苏富 比以5,750万美元成交; 富艺斯珠宝在香港地区拍卖的祖母绿钻石戒指; 重18.18克拉的Fortune Pink钻石在日内瓦佳士得以2,880万美元成交 <35% Increase in number of new buyers at Sotheby’s in 2022 despite the challenging market 尽管面对市场挑战， 苏富比于2022年的新买家人数仍录得此增长
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