市场情报 JNA September/October 2022 | 47 For instance, Art Nouveau jewellery from celebrated maisons like Lalique, Fouquet, Tiffany, Gaillard and Gautrait, to name a few, is becoming as rare as highly sought-after paintings. “A Lalique ring, which cost around US$15,000 about 20 years ago, can now command a price as high as US$100,000 or more,” revealed Alexandris. There is also renewed affinity for 1980s-inspired jewellery, which are revered for their bold and colourful designs and wearability. Despite its grandiose and dramatic appearance, jewellery from the 1980s retains its distinct sense of sophistication as demonstrated by pearls interspersed with yellow gold, which were the dominant designs of the decade, noted Alexandris. Jewellery culture With the rise of social media and other digital platforms, information has become easily and readily accessible to today’s consumers. This phenomenon is benefiting jewellery companies that wish to introduce a younger generation of buyers to the exquisite world of fine and antique jewellery. Alexandris explained, “We have immense access to data, pictures and other vital information nowadays. This is crucial to educating younger buyers and widening their view and appreciation of jewellery and gemstones in general as well as jewellery art, history and manufacturing.” Sparkling future Business remains strong in the major markets of the US, Europe and Asia but opportunities abound in emerging jewellery hubs such as Dubai, according to Alexandris. The company is planning to join jewellery trade exhibits in Dubai to familiarise itself with this market. Gemolithos currently has a presence in London, Germany, Malaysia, Hong Kong and China and recently opened a sales office in Switzerland to serve its VIP customers. Also in the offing is a new, one-of-a-kind jewellery line, which alongside its expansive collection of antique and period jewellery, will further broaden its product offerings to its clients. The company earlier expanded its product portfolio to offer natural fancy colour diamonds, gaining further acclaim in the fine jewellery space. Amid continued macroeconomic and geopolitical headwinds, Alexandris is banking on the enduring allure of fine jewellery coupled with jewellers’ pliant nature to boost consumer demand. “We must be flexible and learn to adapt to market-moving changes and evolving buyer preferences,” he noted. “People buy jewellery because it makes them happy. Nowadays, jewellery has become more meaningful. We should capitalise on this and help wearers express themselves through jewellery.” 面对环球卫生及经济挑战，首饰业又再一次证明 其韧性之高。此等因素及业界发展影响了消费 者的表现，购买模式及偏好，让创新的珠宝商 看到新的机遇，Gemolithos创办人兼首席执行官Ioannis Alex 作 an 为 dr 著 is说名 到古 。董及复古首饰专家，Alexandris认为市场 对源自新艺术运动及美好年代的首饰兴趣增加，前景一 片光明。因着其稀有度，独特工艺及无可比拟的品质，此 等首饰的价格正在上升。 Lalique, Fouquet, Tiffany, Gaillard和Gautrait等经典 牌子的新艺术运动首饰已变得像名画般珍贵。 Alexandris分享说“二十年前，一枚Lalique戒指价钱 大约是15,000美元，现在已经升至100,000美元以上。” 另外，Alexandris留意到市场对受80年代启发-设计大 胆，色彩缤纷而容易佩戴的首饰又再度掀起热潮。在夸张 的外表下，80年代的首饰保留着独特的精致感，例如是 该时期常见的黄金搭配珍珠的设计。 首饰文化 随着社交媒体及其他数字平台兴起，今天的消费者更 容易掌握资讯。这对于希望把高档古董首饰带给年轻卖 家的珠宝商十分有利。Alexandris解释，“我们现在能获 得海量数据，影像及其他重要资讯，对教育年轻买家，开 拓他们的视野及欣赏珠宝宝石和珠宝艺术，历史及制造 极为重要。” 闪耀未来 Alexandris指欧美及亚洲等主要市场业务维持稳健。 新兴市场如迪拜则机遇蓬勃，使他们打算参加迪拜展以 进一步熟悉此市场。 Gemolithos现时在伦敦、德国、马来西亚、香港及中 国内地皆设有营业点，最近在瑞士成立了销售办公室招 待贵宾顾客。他们将推出设计独一无二的新系列，连同其 古董及特定时期首饰，以进一步扩大客户群。 他们较早前把产品种类拓展至天然彩钻系列，令其高 档珠宝市场的地位更上一层楼。 面对宏观经济及地缘政治的逆风，Alexandris把希望 寄托在高档珠宝的恒久魅力及珠宝商的柔韧特性，推动 消费者需求。“我们必须灵活变通，学习适应大转变，以 迎合卖家多变的喜好”他强调。“人们买首饰是因为这令 他们欢欣快乐。今天首饰变得更有意义，我们应该加以利 用，帮助佩戴者透过首饰表达自己。” Ioannis Alexandris, founder and CEO of Gemolithos Gemolithos创办人兼首席执行官Ioannis Alexandris
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