SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2022 ISSUE #435 US$15 China trade eyes growth post-lockdown 中国珠宝业 解封后寻求稳定发展 Branding for success in the LGD space 建立成功实验室培育钻石品牌 Influencer marketing in luxury jewellery 奢侈珠宝业的网红营销
CONTENTS Issue #435 | SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2022 10 MARKET INDICATORS 市场指标 10 Signet buys online jeweller Blue Nile Signet收购珠宝电商Blue Nile 26 PERSPECTIVE 精辟视野 26 KGK thrives in the next normal KGK在新常态下茁壮发展 12 FOCUS 焦点 12 Changing tides and innovative minds in China’s jewellery market 中国珠宝市场的潮流变化与创新思维 20 China eyes stability in diamond trade 中国着眼钻石业务稳定性
On the Cover 封面 Gatsby diamond earrings, High Jewelry yellow and white diamond rings, Gatsby diamond band, and My Move fluorescent yellow and blue bracelets with diamond accents from Messika's Summer 2022 Collection (Photo credit: Arnaud Pyvka) 梅西卡(Messika)的Gatsby系列钻石耳环、High Jewelry系列黄色和白色钻石戒 指、Gatsby系列钻石戒指以及My Move系列带有钻石装饰的荧光黄色和蓝色手链 （图片来源：Arnaud Pyvka） Digital version 电子版： https://news.jewellerynet.com/en/publications 30 STRATEGY 企业策略 30 Influencer marketing in luxury jewellery sector 奢侈珠宝业的网红营销 40 Brilliance of bejewelled creations 瑰丽的珠宝创作 48 JGW Singapore sets stage for grand industry reunion JGW新加坡展搭建舞台助业界再次汇聚 52 Growing LGD capabilities LGD专家致力提升生产能力 54 Branding for success in the LGD space 建立成功实验室培育钻石品牌 46 MARKET INTELLIGENCE 市场情报 46 Gemolithos steers jewellery business to new heights Gemolithos带领业务创高峰 36 DESIGN 设计 36 The richness of rarity 奇妙绚丽的珠宝世界
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ADVERTORIAL 8 | JNA September/October 2022 A pioneer of remarkable industry innovation, Platinum Guild International (PGI) is spearheading the sustainable growth of China’s platinum jewellery sector and relentlessly supporting trade partners in the development and promotion of their branded platinum jewellery collections. At the 2nd China International Consumer Products Expo (CICPE) in July 2022, PGI highlighted its undisputed expertise, profoundmarket knowledge, expansive network and culture of innovation that make it the ideal partner for companies seeking to grow their platinum business. The association also cast the spotlight on platinum’s distinctive qualities of strength and representation of emotional significance, while showcasing beautiful platinum jewellery pieces in its engaging open-design, 360-degree booth. In addition, PGI and the National Gemstone Testing Center (NGTC) jointly organised a platinum antiques area at the booth, taking the opportunity at CICPE 2022 to inform interested parties of the business opportunities available in the field of platinum jewellery. Pt Moment® increases retailer access to branded collection strategy CICPE also witnessed the launch of the 2022 Pt Moment® Collection for the China market. Platinum Guild International at the 2022 China International Consumer Products Expo 国际铂金协会 (PGI®) 参展2022年中国国际消费品博览会 国际铂金协会（PGI®）凝心聚力 共筑首饰发展新格局 PGI spearheads innovation and collaboration for sustainable jewellery development Compelling designs, innovative technology, immersive consumer experiences and stronger trade collaborations underpin the growth of China’s platinum jewellery market. 以出色的设计、创新的技术、身临其境的体验和更强大的业内伙伴合作， 全面驱动中国铂金首饰市场的持续发展。
软文 JNA September/October 2022 | 9 First introduced in 2019, PGI’s branded collection strategy helped develop China’s platinum jewellery sector and largely drove the rise of branded collections in the country’s jewellery industry. In 2021, the strategy gained ground as PGI worked with trade partners to boost the quality and quantity of branded collections across occasions and categories, from bridal jewellery and gifts to men’s collections and unisex pieces. This year, PGI reinforced and expanded the Pt Moment® Collection to target younger female consumers in China. The collection’s novel designs for 2022 align with its brand narrative of jewellery for empowered women exuding femininity and strength as embodied by platinum. PGI ensures long-term support for the collection, providing retail partners with exclusive, diversified marketing resources and assets that educate consumers on the unique qualities and charms of platinum jewellery, effectively growing demand for the product category. Building winning alliances to drive multidimensional industry evolution In recent years, PGI’s trade collaborations have reached new heights of quality, efficiency and effectiveness. And in 2022, it is intensifying its efforts to assist its industry partners in promoting their branded platinum jewellery collections. At CICPE 2022, PGI showcased the platinum collections of Japanese wedding ring specialist I-PRIMO and leading online diamond jeweller Blue Nile in a dedicated international brand zone at its booth. Moving forward, PGI will actively work with more business partners, leveraging its industry expertise and vast resources to provide them with continuous, multifaceted support as they further enhance their platinum jewellery business. The association is committed to building momentum for consumer demand and exploring new marketing opportunities to expand the platinum jewellery market for the benefit of its current and potential industry partners. It encourages and supports the development of compelling platinum jewellery designs created with innovative technology and techniques to offer consumers a more expansive range of jewellery thereby opening new avenues of growth for the trade. As part of its innovation agenda, PGI also seeks to collaborate with brands outside the jewellery industry to widen the appeal and reach of platinum in the market. 2022年7月，国际铂金协会（PGI®）参展第二届中国国际 消费品博览会（以下简称“消博会”）。作为行业革新先行 者，协会旨在以2022年消博会平台为新契机，展示自身 的创新内驱专业的知识、前瞻性的计划和深厚的资源，以 及国际铂金协会（PGI®）近年来在行业的发展成果，期待 成为行业同仁共同开拓创新业务的最佳合作伙伴。 在这个全球消费精品展示及交易的重要平台上，国 际铂金协会（PGI®）全开放式设计升级企业展位，并在现 场隆重呈献全球首发的“2022铂金时刻®系列”首饰，还 联合合作伙伴设立国际品牌专区。此外，国际铂金协会 （PGI®）与珠宝国检集团（NGTC）国检教育联手在现场打 造铂金古董首饰专区，希望以消博会这个平台作为契机， 为业内人士及有意开拓铂金首饰领域的潜在合作伙伴展 示铂金首饰的魅力及发展机会。 品牌化战略赋能“铂金时刻®系列”新品首发 自2019年，协会即开始践行铂金首饰品牌化战略， 帮助推动铂金首饰市场乃至整个珠宝行业的品牌化发 展。2021年，无论是婚庆或礼赠，还是针对不同性别群体 （包括女性、男性，甚至中性）推出的品牌化铂金首饰系 列，其数量和品质均呈现持续增长态势，有效触发零售商 间良好的涟漪效应。 而此次推出的2022“铂金时刻®系列”新品再升级，不 但延续了“温柔自有力量，因铂金更坚定”的品牌主张，还 向更年轻的女性消费群体推广，同时协会也为该系列长 期合作的零售商提供专属的、多元的市场宣传资源及创 意营销素材，积极增强消费者对铂金的认知和关注度，从 而提振需求，让合作伙伴的铂金首饰业务蒸蒸日上。 团结伙伴合作共赢 多维度推进行业革新 近年来，协会与业内伙伴的合作也迈向了提质增效、 全面推进的新阶段。国际铂金协会（PGI®）也乐于为伙伴 们提供多方位和持续性的支持，助力其推广品牌自有的 铂金首饰系列产品，借此多维度推动珠宝行业的发展。 为此，这次协会在消博会现场与日本定制婚戒专业品 牌I-PRIMO，以及全球知名在线钻石珠宝品牌Blue Nile携 手设立国际品牌专区，以创新设计和革新技术为驱动，将 铂金首饰的坚韧之美展示给广大消费者，帮助合作伙伴 寻求机会推展新业务。 针对新消费环境下的其他行业伙伴，国际铂金协会 （PGI®）也积极发挥其丰富的行业资源与专业优势，提升 铂金首饰产品的设计，开拓营销的新动能和新空间，引领 其它行业伙伴灵活拓展铂金首饰业务。 未来，国际铂金协会（PGI®）将进一步与更多业务伙伴 携手共进，为合作伙伴开拓铂金业务提供多方位、持续性 的支持，带领合作伙伴在产业革新领域不断升级，共同推 动铂金首饰行业的蓬勃发展。 Platinum jewellery from I-PRIMO and Blue Nile I-PRIMO及Blue Nile的铂金首饰
10 | JNA September/October 2022 MARKET INDICATORS Signet Jewelers Ltd Lucara Diamond Corp’s Karowe mine in Botswana Lucara Diamond Corp位于博茨瓦纳的Karowe矿场 Limited-edition Fabergé eggs from its objet d’art collection Fabergé的objet d’art系列限量版彩蛋 Jump in Lucara Diamond Corp’s net income in the second quarter of 2022 from the same period last year, driven by improving market fundamentals and solid demand despite global economic headwinds. Lucara Diamond Corp 2022年第二季度净 收入按年所得之增幅。在全球经济逆景下， 公司仍受惠市场基本因素改善及强劲需求。 Amount that Signet Jewelers Ltd is setting aside to purchase online retailer Blue Nile, Inc. The acquisition is aimed at boosting Signet’s leadership in the bridal jewellery category and further expand its digital footprint. Signet Jewelers Ltd用于收购网店Blue Nile的金 额。此次收购旨在提升Signet于婚嫁首饰的领导地 位，并进一步扩大其网络足印。 US$360M 3.6亿美元 108.33% Price of a limited-edition Fabergé egg in 18-karat gold and guilloché enamel. Part of the jeweller’s objet d’art collection, it comes in two designs -- Fabergé Egg Objet with Wild Strawberry Surprise and Fabergé Egg Objet with Water Lily Surprise. Fabergé限量版18K金配扭索饰纹珐琅彩 蛋的价格。Fabergé Egg Objet彩蛋是objet d’art系列中的作品，备有“野草莓惊喜” 及“睡莲惊喜”两款设计可供选择。 1亿美元 US$43,000 43,000美元
JNA September/October 2022 | 11 市场指标 Polished diamonds 经打磨钻石 Online Trade Updates 新闻快讯 GIA diamond verification services launched GIA推出全新钻石验证服务 Record auction revenues at Gemfields Gemfields拍卖收入创纪录 Sarine tech allows in-house diamond grading 尚灵全新技术推展自助钻石分级 The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) is now testing polished diamonds submitted by major diamond manufacturers using its latest initiative – the GIA® Source Verification Service. 美国宝石研究院(GIA)全新推出“GIA®来 源验证服务”（GIA®Source Verification Service），鉴定主要钻石生产商提交的已打磨钻石。 Gemfields reported strong auction revenues for the six months ending June 30, 2022, reflecting continued growth in the international coloured gemstone sector. 在截至2022年6月30日的六个月期间，Gemfields的拍卖收入高达1.812亿 美元，反映出国际彩宝行业正持续增长。 Manufacturers can now grade diamonds on-site using Sarine Technologies Ltd’s artificial intelligence (AI)-based e-Grading™ technology, the company announced. 钻石生产商现在可以采用尚灵钻石科技有限公司的e分级(e-Grading™) 人工智能(AI)技术，于自家设施为钻石进行分级。 Our digital platform provides additional content for an even more comprehensive industry perspective. Scan the QR code for the full story and more trade news. 我们的数字平台载有更多更全面的行业视角报道，请扫瞄二维码查看全文和更多行业信息。 news.jewellerynet.com/en/jnanews 13.45% Year-on-year decline in India’s polished diamond exports in July, latest data from the Gem & Jewellery Export Promotion Council showed. This follows a lacklustre performance in the country’s polished exports from April to July, which dropped 2.76 per cent. 宝石和珠宝出口促进委员会(GJEPC)最新数据显示， 印度7月份经打磨钻石出口按年下降之百分比。该国 4月至7月的成品出口下降了2.76%。 Jewellery display at a Pandora store (Vivitta / Shutterstock.com) Pandora商店的珠宝陈列品 Organic growth recorded by Danish jewellery brand Pandora during the second quarter of 2022. According to the company, growth was underpinned by solid performance in its core businesses, collaborations and new collections amid lockdowns in China and uncertainties in the US. 丹麦珠宝品牌Pandora在2022年第二季度录得之有机 增长。公司表示，尽管受中国封城和美国不明朗因素影 响，其核心业务、企业合作及新系列的稳健表现仍为公 司带来增长。 3%
FOCUS 12 | JNA September/October 2022 Lukfook Jewellery retail store 六福珠宝零售店 中国珠宝市场的风起云涌和创新思维 Changing tides and innovative minds in China’s jewellery market China’s jewellery sector is braving the elements in a postlockdown world, with manufacturers and brands capitalising on artistry, modernisation and product diversification. 后疫情封控时代，中国珠宝首饰业勇于面对各种不确定因素， 着力发展艺术性，聚焦企业现代化建设，并加强产品多样化。 | Helen Mao 毛文 | The year 2022 is almost over but China’s jewellery sector is still reeling from the lasting effects of the pandemic. In the first half of the year, the country’s Covid-19 situation escalated, forcing the government to enforce stricter lockdowns. Shopping malls and stores in major cities were closed while jewellery e-commerce, which saw unprecedented growth in the last two years, suffered from logistical challenges, intense competition and declining profits. Traditional jewellers meanwhile faced rising prices of raw materials, the continued impact of Covid-19 and fierce competition from online businesses. The pandemic has also altered buying behaviours and the way companies are responding to emerging realities in a post-lockdown scenario. Continuous innovation Established in 1991, Hong Kong-based Luk Fook Jewellery Group entered the Chinese mainland market in 1994. It has a vast product portfolio of gold and
焦点 JNA September/October 2022 | 13 Gold necklace by Shenzhen Ganlu Jewelry 黄金项链，甘露集团出品 gem-set jewellery, and more than 2,800 retail outlets worldwide. Nancy Wong, executive director and deputy CEO of Lukfook, remains upbeat about post-pandemic prospects. She shared, “Once the situation in China stabilises, we expect consumer demand to recover strongly. Without overseas tourists, local consumption is powering the Chinese economy.” Rising demand for lighter, daily-wear luxury jewellery is a potential source of growth, noted Wong. Consumption patterns have likewise changed, with more customers becoming more accustomed to online shopping. The overall online penetration rate in the industry will continue to increase, revealed Wong, adding that the market will see more companies using combined online and offline sales strategies. Younger buyers meanwhile are looking for diversified products. In response, Lukfook has developed innovative and trendy sub-brands and product lines to cater to customers’ varying preferences and further strengthen its market share. An example is the Code of Light diamond ring, which uses light and shadow effects to project words in the gift box. This was specifically designed to meet younger consumers’ need for unique products. The company’s NEW 365 concept, which involves unveiling a new jewellery piece every day, is also proving effective. Personalised, uber-stylish and cost-effective silver jewellery has also become popular among young people. Lukfook launched the Silververse series to meet this emerging demand. In 2021, the company opened independent stores and in-store shops for Lukfook Joaillerie, which targets the upmarket jewellery consumer. It provides a wide selection of high-end and award-winning jewellery pieces. The company has so far opened more than 100 sub-brand stores, providing different product lines, disclosed Wong. Diamond products meanwhile remained popular even during challenging times, which was evident in the strong demand for Lukfook’s diversified diamond jewellery offerings. Wong noted, “We are always determined to expand our products and provide customers with more choices. In addition to our own design and production, we also cooperate with Italian fine jewellery brand DIRCE. We have also collaborated with the Dunhuang Museum to launch licensed products based on Chinese culture and art.” Shenzhen Ganlu Jewelry Co Ltd, a major player in China’s jewellery industry, also offers an expansive range of products, with categories covering k-gold, diamond setting, platinum, gold, enamel and high-end jadeite. Gold jewellery is gradually shedding its “traditional” reputation as younger buyers start posting trendy gold jewellery on their social media platforms. Gold earrings by Mingr Jewelry 黄金耳饰，日月行出品
FOCUS 14 | JNA September/October 2022 Zheng Shengsheng, vice chairman of Ganlu, explained that with increased geopolitical, economic and Covid-19 uncertainties, consumers have become more sensible in their purchases. Gen Zs, for instance, are gravitating towards more sophisticated choices. Demand for trendy, self-purchased products and for personalised styles is also rising. “This is a big change in jewellery demand since Covid-19,” noted Zheng. Continuous innovation is key amid the rapid development of consumer markets. Ganlu places high importance on research and development (R&D). Zheng said a closed-loop chain involving product design and development, supply chain management, marketing promotion, channel construction, training and education and incentive mechanism is crucial to what she termed as “hot” sales. Products should resonate with consumers while companies should use a pricing strategy that gives consumers value for their money. At present, Ganlu has nine production lines, focusing on a varied range of products such as enamel, batch pipe and fine electroforming, among others. Ganlu provides exclusive product services to brand customers through differentiated design services, capacity to support quantitative production and topquality processing technology. Chinese culture Beijing Guohua Shopping Center, built more than 30 years ago, is a comprehensive retail complex mainly dealing in gold, platinum, diamond and jade jewellery. Its location on Xuanwumen West Street gives it a unique business advantage. Wang Yi, general manager of BeijingGuohua Shopping Mall, said she had indeed expected pandemic-induced changes in consumer demand. She explained, “In Beijing, demand for gold categories is rising compared with other categories. From the Chinese consumer’s perspective, gold is an adornment and an investment product.” Over the past two years, Chinese traditional style has become popular, with sales of antique gold jewellery driving the business. Licensed collections and Chinesestyle products are also more highly desired, including 5G gold, 9999 gold mounting and diamond, gold with enamel, hollow gold, and geometric three-dimensional styles. Gold jewellery is gradually shedding its “traditional” reputation as younger buyers start posting trendy gold jewellery on their social media platforms. Wang said, “During the first half of 2022, sales of general gold products with lower labour costs increased, which is rare. This shows that jewellery, as a nonessential product, has an impact on consumer income.” Demand for gem-set products, on the other hand, is divided, Wang observed. Lightweight, low-priced products have become highly popular in the accessories market while luxury consumers still pursue high-carat gemstones for value preservation. Consumption of gemstones among middle-income buyers meanwhile has been affected by Covid in the past two years, added Wang. Wong of Lukfook has the same view on gold jewellery. In addition to general jewellery products like the Heirloom Fortune collection and 5G series, the jeweller also provides fashionable and playful ornaments. “During the New Year, we launched a variety of gold products like Golden Windmill, which has movable elements to symbolise good luck,” Wong disclosed. Lightweight, low-priced gem-set products have become highly popular in the accessories market while luxury consumers still pursue high-carat gemstones for value preservation. Gold necklace by Shenzhen Ganlu Jewelry 黄金项链，甘露集团出品
焦点 JNA September/October 2022 | 15 Chinese consumers seem to have adjusted well to living with the pandemic and their jewellery purchases have becomemoremeaningful, shared Shenzhen Yuehao Jewelry Co Ltd. The company said, “Consumers buy jewellery not just for self-expression or to accessorise. Jewellery is viewed as a symbol of good luck and safety. Popular gold jewellery with traditional craftmanship combines blessings and cultural inheritance.” Supply chain The pandemic also altered the supply chain mechanism, indirectly affecting the product structure of retail enterprises. Before Covid-19, Beijing Guohua’s purchasing team would travel to Hong Kong, Japan and Italy to do business, touch base with other industry players, learn about developments in the global jewellery industry and research on design trends. Over the past two years, however, the team was not able to travel. International logistics has also become unstable. Wang said the industry is banking on the reopening of borders and eased travel restrictions so jewellers can once again attend international jewellery fairs. Ganlu sees opportunities in the resumption of international supply chains. In recent years, Ganlu actively explored developments in jewellery design and manufacturing. Its showroom functions as a wholesale platform, with continuously improving systems to meet customers’ needs. The company has cooperated with major jewellery factories in Italy and Turkey, to name a few, to develop its showroom as a one-stop procurement platform for customers. Intelligent manufacturing Ganlu also aims to be an “intelligent jewellery manufacturer” that understands consumers and anticipates their needs through differentiated product strategies and by providing more valuable jewellery. To achieve this goal, Ganlu set up an exclusive team for first-line brands in the jewellery industry – from products to marketing and design – to create exclusive product solutions for brands. Secondly, Ganlu invests a great deal in its own jewellery research institute to study precious metals, technological innovations, standardisation, and utility model patents, among others. After five years of development, the jewellery research institute serves as a channel for final output of products to the market. The company also successfully cultivated a team of “product managers” – a job category that is still in in its infancy in jewellery production, according to Ganlu. Their main responsibility is to solve product redundancy and homogenisation in the industry and guarantee increased product competitiveness. Technological advancement is also at the heart of Zhejiang Mingr Jewelry Co Ltd operations. The company, which has two decades of jewellery manufacturing experience, has been upgrading its technology and design for 24-karat gold jewellery over the past five years. The result is a gold product focusing on Chinese culture, which has now become attractive to younger buyers. Yuehao Jewelry, for its part, aims to serve customers with diversified products. The company said different brands have different R&D needs. Through sufficient communication and comprehensive market research, combined with efficient production processes, Yuehao Jewelry vows to provide brands with new and exclusive product development programmes. Hexicon diamond jewellery by Lukfook Jewellery Hexicon系列钻石首饰，六福珠宝出品 Gold bangles from Beijing Guohua Shopping Center 黄金手镯，北京国华商场
FOCUS 16 | JNA September/October 2022 2022年即将过去，但中国珠宝行业仍受到疫情的持 续影响。今年上半年，新冠肺炎疫情升温，迫使政府 实施更严格的封锁。主要城市的购物中心和商店纷 纷关闭，而在过去两年实现了空前增长的珠宝电商，则遭 遇了物流挑战、竞争加剧和利润下降的状况。与此同时， 传统珠宝商面临着原材料价格上涨、新冠肺炎持续影响， 以及线上新零售模式的激烈竞争。 疫情还改变了消费者的购买行为，以及企业在管控封 锁后应对新常态的方式。 持续创新 在1991年成立，总部设于香港的六福珠宝集团于 1994年进入中国内地市场。它在全球有2,800多家零售 点，销售黄金和宝石首饰产品。 六福集团执行董事兼副行政总裁黄兰诗仍然对后疫 情时代的前景持乐观态度。她说：“一旦中国的形势稳定 下来，我们预计消费需求将得到释放。出境旅游因疫情 受阻，使中国消费者将海外奢侈品的消费转移至国内。” 黄兰诗指出，适合日常佩戴的轻奢珠宝的需求不断上 升，这是一个潜在的增长来源。消费模式也发生了变化， 越来越多的顾客更习惯网上购物。她透露，行业的整体在 线渗透率将继续攀升，并补充说，市场将看到更多的公司 使用线上和线下结合的销售策略。 与此同时，年轻的消费者正在寻找多样化的产品。为 此，六福发展了创新和时尚的副品牌和产品线，以迎合顾 客不同的喜好，进一步强化市场占有率。例如“光影密语” 钻石戒指，它使用光影效果在礼品盒中投射文字。这是专 门为满足年轻消费者对独特产品的需求而设计的。六福 珠宝推出的“天天爱上新”概念，以每天推出一件新品为 核心，也得到了市场认可。 个性化、超级时尚、高性价比的银饰，也成为年轻 一代消费者的追捧对象。六福珠宝推出了“Silververse 银饰间”系列来满足这一新兴需求。2021年，“Lukfook Joaillerie六福精品廊”以开拓高端珠宝市场为目标，开 设了独立门店和店中店，提供高端珠宝产品及获奖的设 计作 黄品 兰。 诗透露，公司目前已经开设了100多家副品牌店 铺，提供各式各样的产品线。 同时，即使在困难时期，中产阶级对钻石的喜爱，对美 好生活的追求丝毫不减。这从六福多元化钻石珠宝产品 的殷切需求可见一斑。 黄兰诗指出：“六福一直锐意拓展多元化产品，为顾 客提供更多选择。除了自己设计和生产，我们还与意大利 高级珠宝品牌DIRCE合作。另外，我们还与敦煌博物馆合 作，推出结合中国艺术元素的授权产品。” 甘露集团是中国珠宝行业的主要参与者，其产品种类 繁多，包括k金、钻石镶嵌、白金、黄金、珐琅和高端翡翠。 甘露集团副董事长郑诞生表示，随着地缘政治、经济 和新冠肺炎的不确定性增加，消费者在购买时更加理性。 以Z世代为例，他们的美学素养大幅提高，对时尚、自购 产品和个性化风格的需求也在不断上升。“这都是疫情以 来对首饰需求的大变革”，郑诞生指出。 Diamond in Your Style bespoke service by Lukfook Jewellery 六福珠宝“钻”享定制服务 Gold jewellery by Shenzhen Ganlu Jewelry 黄金珠宝，甘露集团出品
FOCUS 18 | JNA September/October 2022 六福珠宝的黄兰诗对黄金首饰也有同样的看法。除了 传家宝财富系列和5G系列等热销珠宝产品，该珠宝商还 提供时尚又有玩味的摆件。“新年期间，我们推出了各种 庆年黄金工艺品，比如金色风车，配上可以随手拨动及转 动自如的风车叶，寓意好运随之而来。” 总部位于深圳的粤豪珠宝是我国珠宝首饰批发生产 的龙头企业，公司透露，中国消费者的生活因防疫政策有 了不同程度的变化，其珠宝消费也变得更有意义了：“消 费者对首饰的需求已经不单单是个性、装饰、彰显自我的 表现，更融入一层对未来的、对时运的、对平安的心理需 求。流行的黄金首饰与传统工艺浑然糅合，将祝福与文化 传承融为一体。” 国际供应链难题 疫情也影响了珠宝企业的供应链和采购模式，间接影 响了零售企业的产品结构。疫情前，北京国华商场买手团 队会不定期地前往香港、日本和意大利等地采购产品，增 进与海外珠宝企业的学习交流，了解最新国际珠宝动态， 同时搜寻特别的海外设计制作产品,以丰富产品线。这两 年，一边是走出去不容易，另一边是国际物流的不稳定， 导致差异化的18K金首饰产品的缺口比较大。盼望疫情 好转后，各地的国际珠宝展能早日复苏，尤其是香港国际 珠宝展，是一个非常好的进货通路。 另一边，甘露集团则看到了国际供应链环节的机遇。 近年来，甘露集团不仅积极探索开发自己公司设计生产 的首饰，甘露展厅作为服务于行业的大型批发平台，还会 根据客户需求不断完善自己的产品体系，例如与意大利、 土耳其等优质珠宝工厂的合作，让甘露展厅成为客户的 一站式采购服务平台。 珠宝智造商 面对当下的市场环境，甘露珠宝以做“最懂消费者的 珠宝智造商”为目标——追求差异化的产品策略，在这么 内卷的环境下为客户，乃至消费者提供更有价值的珠宝 首饰。 在快速发展的消费市场中，持续创新是关键。甘露公 司高度重视研发工作。郑说，一个市场热款的背后包含产 品设计和开发、供应链管理、市场推广、渠道建设、培训教 育和激励机制等多位一体的结合。 产品应该与消费者产生共鸣，同时公司的定价策略要 让消费者觉得物有所值。 目前，甘露集团共有九大生产线服务我们的品牌订单 客户，每条生产线皆具有别出心裁的工艺特色，如珐琅产 品、批管产品、精工电铸产品等。通过差异化的产品设计 服务、支持量化生产的庞大产能和一流的加工技术，为品 牌客户提供专属的产品服务。 新中式美学 北京国华购物中心是一家经营黄金、铂金、钻石、玉石 的综合性珠宝零售商场，已有30多年的历史。地处宣武 门西街，具有得天独厚的商业优势。 北京国华商场总经理王祎对疫情以来的消费者需求 变化有直观的感受。她解释说：“以北京市场为例，对比其 他品类，黄金品类的需求量稳中有升。黄金在中国消费者 眼中，既具备了投资品属性，又可以满足消费者对珠宝首 饰美 过学 去的 两追 年求 里。”，国潮风行，人们对古法金的追捧带动了 黄金产品研发的热情。带有热门IP或中国风格的产品也 更受欢迎，例如热销的5G时尚黄金系列、千足金点钻系 列，镶嵌、珐琅、镂空、几何立体，黄金首饰正在慢慢摆脱 千篇一律的传统印象，并在社交媒体上吸引了年轻消费 者的 王青 祎睐 还。 提到“: 2022年上半年，加工费比较低的普货黄 金制品销售量正在提升，可以看出珠宝首饰作为非必需 品，还是跟消费者的直接收入相挂钩的。” 而另一方面，宝石镶嵌品类则走向两极化。一方面，轻 材质、低价位的产品大量涌现，抢占配饰市场，来势汹汹。 另一方面，高端消费群体依旧追捧具有保值、增值潜力和 稀有的大克拉宝石。反而中间层次的宝石类消费，这两年 受到经济和疫情的打击很大。
PavéCut Tel.:+49 (0) 2263 86 0 Fax:+49 (0) 2263 20741 [email protected] There is no substitute for quality GERMANY MADE IN Payback period 1.day This newly developed bur made of fine-grain tungsten carbide is a unique combination of a twist drill and a round bur: two working steps in one; saves min. 50% of your time – and money! „Having a bur that cuts half of the time is a wish come true“ Guy Cohen, unique jewelry maker, Israel More information: www.busch.eu buschjewellery To the video patent pending DE 10 2019 200.495.4 JNA GB 86 x 265 mm 2022, 27 – 30 / 9 / 2022 Hall: 3 / Booth No. 3B40 为此，甘露珠宝成立了专属团队，从产品、营销、设 计，为品牌打造专属的产品解决方案。其次，甘露珠宝还 大力投资成立了自己的珠宝研究所，深入研究金属材料、 工艺结构创新、标准化建设、发明与实用新型专利。 经过五年的发展，珠宝研究所成为了产品最终走向 市场的渠道。甘露集团还成功培养了一支“产品经理”团 队——在珠宝生产领域，这一职位仍处于起步阶段。他们 的主要职责是解决行业内的产品冗余和同质化问题，并 保证提高产品竞争力。 技术进步也是浙江明牌珠宝的运营核心。该公司拥有 20年的珠宝制造经验，在过去五年里一直在提升技术和 设计24k黄金珠宝。其打造的一款中国文化特色的黄金 产品，对年轻买家极具吸引力。 粤豪珠宝致力于为客户提供多元化的产品。该公司表 示，不同品牌有不同的研发需求。通过充分的沟通和全面 的市场调查，结合高效的生产流程，粤豪珠宝承诺为品牌 提供全新的独家产品开发方案。 About the author 笔者简介 Helen Mao is an independent writer covering the gems and jewellery sector. Based in Shanghai, China, she worked with the World Gold Council for over two decades and has been a jewellery trade consultant for the last seven years. Helen is particularly committed to supporting and guiding young designers. Actively involved in trend forecasting and research, she has published two books on jewellery design and craftsmanship. Helen Mao是一位宝石及珠宝 行业的独立撰稿人。她居于上海，在世界黄金协会(WCG) 工作了20多年，过去７年一直担任珠宝贸易顾问。Helen致 力支持和提携年轻设计师，积极参与珠宝首饰潮流预测和 研究，出版了两本关于珠宝设计和工艺的书籍。 Gold jewellery by Shenzhen Ganlu Jewelry 黄金珠宝，甘露集团出品
FOCUS 20 | JNA September/October 2022 Zbird store 钻石小鸟店面 中国着眼钻石业务稳定性 China eyes stability in diamond trade Covid-19 has wreaked unprecedented havoc on China’s jewellery and diamond business. While key indicators improved in June and July, the industry still has a great deal of catching up to do to achieve strong recovery. 新冠疫情对中国的珠宝和钻石业务造成了前所未有的打击。虽然关键指标 在6月和7月有所改善，但是行业实现强劲复苏仍然任重道远。 | Julius Zheng 郑嵘 | Turbulent times have plagued China’s gem and jewellery industry since the latest wave of Covid cases hit the country in 2022. Business districts and manufacturing centres were placed on strict lockdown, dealing a heavy blow to the local economy, the jewellery and diamond trade included. Green shoots of recovery however are gradually taking hold amid fluctuating growth, industry experts said. Retail challenges The impact of Covid lockdowns was most evident in the first half of 2022, particularly in Tier 1 cities. Retail stores in the major business district of Shanghai were closed while jewellery manufacturing in Shenzhen and Guangzhou were put on hold. When businesses partially resumed in June 2022, there was no pent-up consumer demand to spur sales, unlike in early 2020. Physical retail stores continued to face interrupted business hours, reduced in-store traffic and weak consumer sentiment. According to the National Bureau of Statistics of China, total retail sales of jewellers selected for key sampling or those with annual sales of US$771,000 and above dipped 1.3 per cent year on year in the first half of 2022. However, the figure grew 8.1 per cent in June and 22.1 per cent in July, pushing January to July sales up by 1.5 per cent year on year. Online sales on the other hand were on the rise for a great deal of jewellers. According to China-based diamond jewellery retailer Zbird, its online sales from January to July 2022 rose more than 187 per cent
焦点 JNA September/October 2022 | 21 Source: National Bureau of Statistics of China and Gems & Jewelry Trade Association of China *Key sampling involved jewellers with annual sales of RMB5 million (US$771,000) and above 资料来源：中国国家统计局和中国珠宝玉石首饰行业协会 *重点调查年销售额在500万元人民币(77.1万美元)以上的珠宝商。 China’s jewellery sales from 2016 to H12022 in US$ billion 2016至2022年上半年中国珠宝首饰零售额 (单位：以10亿美元计) Year年 2016 2017 2018 2019 2020 2021 H1 2022 Total amount for select jewellers* 限额以上企业零售总额* 45.10 43.97 41.71 37.79 34.44 47.14 22.81 Total amount for all jewellers 全部珠宝企业零售总额 78.29 81.42 87.72 88.45 88.41 111.6 Not announced/ 未公佈 compared with the same period in 2021 while the number of pieces sold were up 264 per cent. TikTok, a popular livestreaming channel, contributed 65 per cent to the company's total online sales. Demand for diamond jewellery was mainly fuelled by the resumption of wedding ceremonies. Sales of 1-carat diamonds were less affected by the pandemic while those of diamonds of over 2 carats increased. Average spending on diamonds below 1 carat however plummeted, resulting from cautious spending by consumers. “Store sales in locked-down areas were heavily affected, but companies found respite in the growing online and livestreaming business,” said Zbird Chairman Stone Xu. “Physical stores should adapt and try livestreaming on a single-store basis and actively develop private domain marketing that targets VIPs, club members and fans.” For its part, Zbird will focus on promoting contentdriven activities through online mainstream media and word-of-mouth-type platforms in the second half of 2022 with the aim of further optimising offline sales channels, revealed Xu. “There is a lot to be done in Tier 2 and 3 cities too, including expanding franchises, strengthening core sales channels and enhancing brand influence through offline media. We are implementing a three-dimensional ‘air plus ground’ strategy,” he added. Wholesale business Diamond imports also rebounded in June this year, according to Lydia Geng, president of diamond wholesaler and Shanghai Diamond Exchange (SDE) member Huabi (HB) Diamond. Data from the SDE showed that polished diamond imports from January to June 2022 amounted to US$1.01 billion, down by 35.9 per cent year on year. By June however, diamond imports reached US$441 million, up 48 per cent from 2021. ‘Fancy’ jewellery series by Zbird 钻石小鸟“追光”系列 US$1.01B 10.1亿美元 Polished diamond imports at the Shanghai Diamond Exchange from January to June 2022 2022年1月至6月上海钻石交易所成品钻石进口总额
FOCUS 22 | JNA September/October 2022 25.7% Market share of online jewellery sales in China in 2021 2021年线上珠宝销售占比 Geng explained that big retailers remain cautious about building inventories while small designer studios and jewellery salons that rely on bespoke orders and online sales prefer consignment sales. Sales of diamonds above 0.50 carat rose while those of 0.30 carat remained weak. Demand for round diamonds of 1 carat to 2 carats and fancy shapes of over 2 carats are stable. Huabi (HB) Diamond plans to boost sales of 0.50-, 0.70- and 1-carat round diamonds in the second half of 2022 and promote fancy shapes and fancy colour diamonds to bespoke jewellery retailers. “Post-June 2022 sales could partially make up for losses in April and May but July and August are expected to have been regular slow seasons. This, alongside weak consumer confidence, could result in low business volume in 2022 compared to 2021,” noted Geng. The industry is counting on major festivities and occasions in the second half of the year to bolster retail growth, including traditional wedding peak seasons in September and October and other retail events like Double 11 or Single’s Day on November 11, Christmas and New Year. The wholesale business meanwhile could benefit from this potential upturn in the months leading to these important seasons. China’s diamond price index In November 2021, the SDE, Gems & Jewellery Trade Association of China (GAC) and National Gemstone Testing Centre (NGTC) jointly launched the China Diamond Price Index and China Diamond Price List, the first of their kind based on China’s Diamond Grading Standards and expressed in local currency. Taking into consideration polished diamond imports, wholesale and retail, the China Diamond Price Index set the July 1, 2021 price level as baseline (100), reflecting price trends for 0.30-carat to 2.99-carat polished diamonds – the most popular sizes in China. The China Diamond Index provides diamond jewellers and consumers with domestic diamond price trends for reference. In the 12 months since July 2021, the price of 0.30-carat to 0.39-carat range barely changed while 0.50carat to 0.69-carat stones inched up a bit and 1-carat to 1.49-carat stones recorded a 20 per cent increase. The biggest winner was the 1.50-carat to 2.99-carat range, which rose over 25 per cent, according to SDE. Higher baseline While plain gold jewellery remains the bestselling category in China, accounting for 58.3 per cent of sales China Diamond Price Index 中国钻石价格指数
焦点 JNA September/October 2022 | 23 Zbird Chairman Stone Xu 钻石小鸟董事长徐磊 2021 exchange rate汇率: 6.4515 Source: 2021 China Jewelry Industry Development Report, the Gems and Jewelry Trade Association of China (GAC) 来源：中宝协《2021中国珠宝行业发展报告》 China jewellery retail sales in 2021 2021年中国珠宝零售 Category 品类 Plain gold 素金 Diamond 钻石 Jadeite 翡翠 Nephrite 和田玉 Coloured Gemstones 彩色宝石 Pearl 珍珠 Platinum & Silver 铂金及白银 Retail sales (in billions, US$) 零售总额(单位：10亿美元) 65.1 15.5 15.5 4.3 4.9 2.5 1.6 Market share (in %) 市场份额 58.3% 13.9% 13.9% 3.9% 4.4% 2.2% 1.4% US$111.6B 1,116亿美元 Total jewellery retail sales in China in 2021, according to the 2021 China Jewellery Industry Development Report by the Gems and Jewelry Trade Association of China. The figure is up 18 per cent from 2020. 2021年中国珠宝零售总额，资料来自中宝协《2021中国珠宝行业发展报告》 in 2021, diamond jewellery is gaining additional market share. The 2021 China Jewellery Industry Development Report by GAC indicated that China’s 2021 jewellery sales reached approximately RMB720 billion (around US$111.6 billion), up 18 per cent year on year. Diamond jewellery sales rose from US$11.6 billion in 2020 to US$15.5 billion in 2021, accounting for 13.9 per cent market share. It has become the second bestselling category together with jadeite. These three categories combined – plain gold, diamond and jadeite jewellery – made up more than 86 per cent of China’s jewellery retail sales, GAC revealed. The report further showed an accelerated market consolidation, with mega retailers expanding even more and filling voids in the market while smaller retailers ceased to operate. The report also estimated that online penetration increased from 24.6 per cent to 25.7 per cent of market share in 2021, with US$28.7 billion worth of jewellery products sold online. Moving forward, China’s jewellery and diamond trade is expected to weather headwinds in the market, thanks to its innate strength and resilience. Growth however will demonstrate a wave-like pattern and fluctuate before it stabilises, according to Lin Qiang, vice chairman of the World Federation of Diamond Bourses and president of SDE. “With the launch of economic stimulus packages by the Chinese government, the domestic consumer market will be back on track to achieving long-term growth in the second half of the year,” noted Lin. “The demand for wedding and diamond jewellery, which was greatly suppressed by the pandemic in the first half of the year, is expected to further strengthen.”
2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018 2019 2020 2021 0.31 0.64 0.77 1.16 4.40 5.35 6.99 13.11 20.33 22.36 17.48 20.37 25.15 27.4 18.51 14.24 29.24 15.84 17.30 2.10 0 5 10 15 20 25 30 FOCUS 24 | JNA September/October 2022 自2022年遭遇新一波新冠疫情以来，中国宝石和 珠宝行业饱受困扰。商业区和制造中心因严格 管控措施无法营业，对当地经济，包括珠宝和 钻石贸易造成了沉重打击。然而，行业专家称，在波动性 的增长中，复苏正在萌芽。 零售业的挑战 应对新冠疫情的管控措施造成的影响在2022年上半 年最为明显，尤其是在一线城市。上海主要商业区的零售 店暂时关闭，而深圳和广州的珠宝制造业暂停运作。 当企业在2022年6月逐步恢复业务时，并没有遇到令 业绩大增的报复性消费，这与2020年初的情况不同。实 体零售店继续面临营业时间缩短、店内客流量减少和消 费者情绪疲软等问题。 根据中国国家统计局的数据，2022年上半年具规模 的珠宝商（年销售额在77.1万美元及以上）的珠宝零售总 额同比下降1.3%。然而，由于这一数字在6月和7月分别 增长了8.1%和22.1%，使1月至7月的珠宝零售总额扭转 颓势，同比增长了1.5%。 另一方面，许多珠宝商的线上销售也在上升。根据中 国钻石珠宝零售商钻石小鸟的数据，其2022年1月至7月 的线上销售额与2021年同期相比增长了187%以上，而 销售数量则增长了264%。 抖音是非常受欢迎的直播渠道，对其线上销售总额的 贡献率为65%。对钻石首饰的需求主要由婚礼庆典的恢 复来 1 推克 动拉 。钻石的销售受新冠疫情的影响较小，而2克拉 以上钻石的销售则有所增加。然而，由于消费者的谨慎消 费，1克拉以下钻石的整体消费单价有所下降。 钻石小鸟董事长徐磊说：“受管控地区的分店销售 受到严重影响，但公司在不断增长的线上和直播业务中 找到了平复的机会。实体店也应尝试开展以门店为单 位的直播业务，并积极发展面向VIP、会员和粉丝的私域 营销”。 徐磊透露，钻石小鸟将在2022年下半年通过线上主 流媒体和口碑类平台的内容活动推广产品，进一步优化 线下“ 销在 售二 渠、三道 线。 城市也大有可为，包括推动加盟推广，布 局核心渠道，并通过线下媒体资源，提升品牌在二、三线 城市的影响力。”他补充说：“我们正在实施三维的‘空中 +地面’战略”。 批发业务 钻石批发商、上海钻石交易所(SDE)会员华比钻石总 裁耿莉军表示，今年6月的钻石进口也出现了反弹。 上海钻石交易所的数据显示，2022年1月至6月的成 品钻石进口额为10.1亿美元，同比下降35.9%。然而，6月 钻石进口达到4.41亿美元，比2021年同期增长48%。 耿莉军解释说，大型零售商对建立自有库存仍然很谨 慎，而专注定制订单和线上销售的小型设计师工作室和 珠宝沙龙主要以寄售为主。 0.50克拉以上的钻石销售量有所上升，而0.30克拉的 钻石销售仍然较弱。1克拉至2克拉的圆钻，还有2克拉以 上的花式切割钻石的需求比较稳定。 Diagram courtesy of Shanghai Diamond Exchange 图表由上海钻石交易所提供 ‘Fancy’ jewellery series by Zbird 钻石小鸟“追光”系列 Net imports of polished diamonds into China via the SDE from 2002 to 2021 2002至2021年上海钻石交易所成品钻石进口金额
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