焦点 JNA November/December 2022 | 21 On TikTok, for example, freshwater and saltwater pearls take up 72 per cent and 28 per cent of the market share, respectively, with freshwater pearl necklaces and earrings, and saltwater pearl earrings comprising majority of sales, according to a recent report by the social media channel. On the wholesale front, most pearl auctions in China were postponed in the last two years, revealed Tu. Pearlers therefore could not rely on digital tools to entice buyers since pearls are better inspected in person. The Shenzhen Bonded Jewellery and Jade Service platform was established in 2020 to provide an effective, convenient and legal B2B pearl trading channel. At present, about two viewing sessions are held via the platform a month. Tu said the Shenzhen Pearl Industry Association keeps its finger on the pulse of changes and trends in the pearl market. It regularly collects industry and member information and acts as a bridge between Source: National Bureau of Statistics of China and Gems & Jewelry Trade Association of China *Key sampling involved jewellers with annual sales of RMB5 million (US$759,600) and above Note: Jan-Sept 2022 US$/RMB average exchange rate is 6.5882 资料来源：中国国家统计局和中国珠宝玉石首饰行业协会 *限额以上企业为年销售额在500万元人民币(75.9万美元)以上的珠宝商。 China’s jewellery retail sales from 2016 to 2022 (Q1-Q3) in US$ billion 2016至2022年（一至三季度）中国珠宝首饰零售额 (单位：以10亿美元计) Year 年 2016 2017 2018 2019 2020 2021 2022 (Q1-Q3) Total amount for key sample of jewellers* 限额以上企业零售总额* 45.10 43.97 41.71 37.79 34.44 47.14 34.32 Total amount for all jewellers 全部珠宝企业零售总额 78.29 81.42 87.72 88.45 88.41 111.6 Not announced/ 未公布 2022年对中国的珠宝业来说是特别艰难的一年。上 半年，新冠疫情再次在数个城市爆发，加上动态清 零政策下的严格封控措施，深圳、广州、上海和北京 等重要的珠宝市场和制造中心承压严重。 根据中国国家统计局的数据，2022年上半年，限额以 上珠宝零售企业（年销售额500万元人民币以上，约75.9 万美元）的零售总额下降了1.3%。然而，从1月到9月，销 售额同比增长2.2%，显示略有回升。虽然素金首饰与珍 珠仍然受到中国消费者的高度青睐，但规模较小、非连锁 企业面临更大的挑战。许多连锁店的利润率也有所下降。 钻石魅力 2021年，钻石珠宝占中国整体珠宝零售额的13.9%， 折合155亿美元。它也是第二大品类，仅次于占销售额 58.3%的素金首饰。 与2020年和2021年相比，中国的钻石珠宝市场承受 了巨大的压力，这主要是由于消费市场更具挑战性，钻石 珠宝零售业务的下滑就是证明。 钻石世家（中国的钻石珠宝零售商）董事长陈小凤将 这种乏善可陈的表现归因于市场对公共健康和经济不确 定性的焦虑。由于支出更节俭，中国消费者在今年上半年 的储蓄率有了大幅增长。 “大尺寸钻石的零售有所下降。0.50-2克拉范围内的 主流婚庆首饰产品的销售量有减少，”陈董事长说。 在新常态下，钻石世家在国内经营的约500家门店旨 在通过协同效应和全渠道销售体系来促进业务。为了进一 步扩大其品牌影响力，该零售商正在实施多种品牌战略， 包括聘请新的品牌代言人，乃至旗下专利钻石的代言人。 钻石世家利用其成立20周年的契机，发起了一系列 的全渠道促销活动，旨在吸引新客户，并强化私域运营。 此外，该品牌还开发了新的渠道，包括与高端品牌，例如 钻石世家x迪奥、兰蔻和劳力士的整合营销计划。还在与 大中型集团化企业强强联合，推出与科技公司Vivo和中 国工商银行合作的“快闪店”项目。 快闪店是临时性的零售设施，可以快速建造和拆除， 通常设置在商场的繁忙区域或大商店内。 the government and the private sector. Its scope of responsibilities also includes livestreaming supervision, offline sales, wholesale, trade fairs, bonded platform viewing events, auctions and various training sessions, all aimed at supporting the solid development of China’s pearl industry. Many sectors of China’s jewellery market are considered emerging and poised for further growth, especially diamonds and coloured gemstones. Total jewellery retail sales in China in 2021 increased 18 per cent from 2020, while polished diamond imports in 2021 more than doubled from 2020 to reach a record high of close to US$3 billion. The year 2021 thus set a high baseline against 2022, which industry players consider a “complicated year.” Many retailers and wholesalers are holding the line to keep operations afloat in 2022 while maintaining a steady to cautiously optimistic outlook for 2023.
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