企业策略 JNA May/June 2022 | 37 China's jewellery market is fast diversifying, with brands growing in popularity among consumers eschewing cookie-cutter purchases. Making inroads in this promising sector however comes with its share of challenges for smaller international brands. Vetiver eases the transition from wholesale to retail through a brand-incubator business for foreign jewellery brands aiming to tap Chinese consumers. The distribution and retail enterprise is the brainchild of three young entrepreneurs with backgrounds in retail, marketing and the digital space – Gary Gong, formerly trade development manager at Platinum Guild International China; Helen Chen who once worked as marketing manager for Pepsi Food; and capital investor William Chen. From their trade experience, Gary and Helen both believed that brands could meet Chinese consumers’ demand for fresh and innovative designs, boutique shopping experiences and jewellery pieces that suit their personality. They likewise knew that international jewellery companies often struggled to find suitable strategic partners that could help them navigate the business environment in China. Nurturing brands Seeing the gaps and opportunities in the market, the trio came up with the Vetiver Jewel Safari concept in end-November 2017 and launched the company exactly a year later. The business model entails sourcing unique and exclusive jewellery brands from around the world, introducing these to the mainland market and supporting their growth in China. Departing from the traditional wholesale jewellery distribution model, Vetiver serves as a brand incubator for foreign companies that appoint it as their exclusive agent in China. Going beyond product sales, it communicates the brands’ narrative, culture and concept to consumers. In addition, the company helps its partners position themselves properly in the market with the right product offering, pricing, selling points and retail channels. “Prospects for international branded jewellery are bright in China. Consumers on the mainland now gravitate towards distinctive jewellery pieces that reflect their personality and make a statement. Niche markets are promising, given the country’s huge population. Foreign brands should definitely consider investing in China. It is worth it,” shared Helen. Proper connections The Vetiver team focuses on the marketing essentials of people, product and place. First, it defines the target consumers and creates a dedicated team to serve the segment. It then sources for the right brands, imports the products, places these at various retail points, promotes the brands and supports their marketing and sales requirements through exhibitions, consumer events and market feedback, among others. In 2019, the company set up a global supply chain system for its jewellery imports, working closely with international brands and manufacturers, the Shanghai Free Trade Zone and China’s National Gemstone Testing Centre (NGTC). At present, Vetiver’s distribution network includes eight chains in mainland China, collaborative agreements with banks and crossover brands from the fashion and cosmetic sectors. It also has its own multi-brand physical boutique and online store. In October 2021, the Vetiver boutique opened on Hengshan Road in Shanghai. The 800-square-metre retail space consists of four themed areas, namely silver jewellery, cameo jewellery, fashion jewellery and gemstone jewellery. The boutique carries partner brands’ signature collections and latest releases, either on consignment basis or outright purchase, complete with each brand’s signage, imagery and collaterals. Reviews with brands on sales performance and market feedback are conducted monthly. Vetiver’s WeChat mini program is its online store, with nearly 50,000 users who can easily learn more about the brands on their mobiles. This emerging sales channel substantially reduces distribution and publicity costs. The company works closely too with jewellery associations, industry organisations and commercial bodies like the Italian Trade Agency (ITA). Effective partnerships Vetiver currently represents over 20 foreign jewellery brands from Italy, Germany, Switzerland, France and Japan. These include Mattioli, Misis, Bernd Wolf, Matthia’s & Claire, Leonori, Yana Nesper, Giorgio Visconti, Del Gatto, Russo Cammei, Cavaliere, Aline Bassani, Rauschmayer, Buelling, Fiore, Lucemiya and Attur Scholl. According to the founders, most of their international jewellery partners are word-of-mouth recommendations that grow into concrete agreements after both parties agree on the vision, strategy and deliverables. Vetiver boutique in Shanghai Vetiver维缇珐在上海的零售精品店
RkJQdWJsaXNoZXIy NjAxOTU=