STRATEGY 32 | JNA May/June 2022 poetry without words, a temple between fingers, a miniature landscape,” as described by Zhao. Aside from its beauty, the jewellery piece needs to be functional and wearable so it is truly relevant to the owner, added the designer. Inspiration meanwhile is the crux of Kelly Xie’s masterpieces. “Sources of inspiration are vast – flowers, birds, landscapes, giant architectural art, abstract geometric images – everything can inspire an artist. I always integrate Chinese cultural elements such as poetry, motifs and paintings in my designs,” noted the founder and chief jewellery designer of Kelly Xie Fine Jewelry. Business sense Building a brand is a challenging journey for every designer since it takes more than just artistic talent but a nose for business. Successful jewellery designers are heavily involved in the sourcing of raw materials as well as the manufacturing stage, working with master craftsmen to ensure that every creative detail is meticulously carried out. They are also expected to make major business decisions pertaining to location, shop design and hiring a team. According to Sun Jie, a professor at Tongji University and a renowned Chinese scholar in the field of jewellery design and education, establishing a brand requires leadership, management and entrepreneurial skills. After all, the founder and designer functions both as the head of business and the creative mind behind the brand. “The designer can also work with a partner in a field that he is not familiar with. The 21st century is an era of collaboration, and it is important to learn to work together with a partner or a team. It is almost impossible to survive on your own,” he commented. Xie supported this sentiment, adding that designers may often feel that business and the arts contradict each other but these two concepts are in fact closely related. “Great art commands a high price. This was evident in the last few years, especially at jewellery or art auctions where prices are constantly on the upswing,” she remarked. “This is important because in this way, valuable items are treasured and protected.” Sustaining a competitive edge Over the years, designers in China have implemented various business strategies aimed at promoting their brand and expanding their market reach, including opening shops and galleries in wealthy cities. They also actively engage in media campaigns and participate in interviews to be featured in newspapers, magazines and trend books. Some have co-branded with different companies while others are active in multiple platforms such as galleries, fashion runways and design competitions to enhance their influence. Social media is another important aspect of brand building. According to Xie, she began posting her designs on social media platforms in 2012. She has so far amassed 146,000 followers and around 600,000 likes on Xiaohongshu or Little Red Book, the social media and e-commerce platform on luxury and fashion. Her annual orders have likewise ‘Beyond the Feathers’ brooch adorned with white jadeite from the HoMe collection of Pans Jewelry 璞安珠宝HoMe系列之“非羽”白色 翡翠胸针
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