企业策略 JNA May/June 2022 | 31 Designers are taking a more frontline role in China’s jewellery industry, which has always been dominated by manufacturers. While majority of Chinese consumers still put a premium on the cost of raw materials as opposed to the value behind the design and craftsmanship, upper- and middle-class clients are consistently gravitating towards exceptional and more personalised products. Mass-produced jewellery pieces offered by major jewellery chains still have a following but brands are providing the market with a more creative option. Today’s buyers, led by younger generations, are increasingly favouring more sophisticated and individual products, hence the steady rise in popularity of jewellery designer brands. “A designer brand targets specific groups of clients, gaining market acclaim for their low-volume but high valueadded pieces,” explained Grace Tang, founder and art director of Grace Tang Fine Jewelry. “Instead of engaging in competition, brands should focus on their craft and their creative identity amid market changes. What remains constant is the design DNA unique to each brand.” Aesthetic concepts Several jewellery designers who founded their own brands have had experiences studying and working overseas. Tang remarked that inspiration comes naturally and organically, and not merely dictated by an intermingling of Chinese and Western cultures. She further noted, “Art knows no borders and good work will always appeal to everyone. I do not deliberately define my designs as Eastern- or Western-inspired. In retrospect, Eastern and Western cultures and arts have been influencing each other and growing together. This is especially true for contemporary art.” Designer Pan Yuhang of Pans Jewelry said the core of his brand is creating value for clients by offering “stability, rather than individuality.” Pans Jewelry, also known for offering intricately designed jewellery boxes, uses prized and highly sought-after coloured gemstones set in classic designs. Pan’s creations are also interchangeable to add to the jewellery pieces’ versatility and uniqueness. Artistry is also the hero of Zhao Jingsi’s designs. Her brand, Xiao Guan Jewelry, roughly translated as "small view” in English was her creative concept. It pertains to seeing the bigger picture through a small perspective, which in this case is represented by her jewellery. The designs are carefully planned. Aesthetic logic meets manufacturing prowess or technical innovation to create a microcosm of the world as we know it, which can be beheld and appreciated through jewellery. “A ‘India’ necklace with a 22-carat Royal Blue sapphire centre gem and tsavorites and diamonds in 18-karat white gold from the Ancient Memory series and ‘Fancy the Wonderland’ earrings from the Suzhou Garden collection of Kelly Xie Fine Jewelry 来自Kelly Xie高级珠宝“远古畅想”系列的“印度”项链，18K白金镶嵌22克拉 皇家蓝蓝宝石主石，搭配沙弗莱石和钻石。另有”苏州园林”系列之”逸想桃源”耳环
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