NFTs in luxury jewellery NFT开创奢华珠宝业新世界 Gem and jewellery solutions and innovations 珠宝首饰业的解决方案与革新 Rise of designer brands in China 设计师品牌在中国崛起 MAY/JUNE 2022 ISSUE #433 US$15
CONTENTS Issue #433 | MAY/JUNE 2022 8 MARKET INDICATORS 市场指标 8 Purplish-pink diamond nets US$6.78M at auction 紫粉色钻石在拍卖会上 以678万美元成交 20 PERSPECTIVE 精辟视野 20 King Fook builds a sparkling legacy 景福珠宝缔造闪耀里程 10 SPECIAL FEATURES 专题报道 10 Vibrant jewellery prospects in the NFT world NFT开创珠宝业活力前景 16 JGW set to welcome international trade in Singapore 環球珠宝业界將重聚于JGW新加坡展
On the Cover 封面 999.9 Chuk Kam ring and necklace from King Fook Jewellery's Lotus Collection 景福珠宝“佳偶天成”系列的足金戒指和项链 Digital version 电子版： jewellerynet.com/en-us/custom/publications 40 SPOTLIGHT 市场聚焦 40 Thailand retains jewellery manufacturing edge 泰国保持珠宝制造竞争优势 24 DESIGN 设计 24 Refined renditions of artistry 精致的珠宝艺术 36 Jewel safaris to bridge China’s branding divide 为中国消费者游猎国际精品珠宝 58 GDH City emerges as China’s new jewellery and gem hub 粤海城将成为中国新兴珠宝及 宝石业中心 50 MARKET INTELLIGENCE 市场情报 50 Alternative metals sparkle in the jewellery trade 另类贵金属在珠宝业发光发热 54 JGT Dubai marks debut as premier sourcing platform 第一届迪拜JGT国际采购盛会圆满闭幕 30 STRATEGY 企业策略 30 The rise of designer brands in China 设计师品牌在中国崛起 46 INNOVATION 创新科技 46 Gem and jewellery solutions and innovations 珠宝首饰业的解决方案与革新
Every care has been taken to ensure the accuracy of the information in JNA. However, the publication of such information is at the sole discretion of the publisher. The publisher and the editorial team shall not be held responsible or in any way held liable for any errors, omissions or inaccuracies in this publication, or for any consequences arising therefrom. The contents of this publication are protected by copyright and cannot be reproduced, photocopied, transmitted or posted in any form without the prior written consent of the publisher. 本公司已尽力确保《JNA亚洲珠宝》所刊登的内容正确无误。如因错漏而引致任何损失，本公司概不负责。本公司保留刊登有关资料的一切权利。版权所有，如未获得本公司事先之书面允许，不 得以任何方式翻印、仿制或转载本刊物任何部份之文字或图片。 Printed by Asia One Printing Limited,13/F, Asia One Tower, 8 Fung Yip Street, Chai Wan, Hong Kong. 印刷商: 宏亚印务有限公司香港柴湾丰业街8号宏亚大厦13楼 Associate Publisher & Editor-in-Chief Olivia Quiniquini 副出版人及主编 程爱莉 EDITORIAL 编辑部 Deputy Editor Bernardette Sto. Domingo 副编辑 杜明高 Assistant Digital Product Manager William Yick 助理数码产品经理 易康耀 ADVERTISING 广告部 Assistant Director Christine Sinn 区域营业总监 冼蕙珠 Digital & Sales Manager Ken Chan 數碼業務及銷售經理 陈赞健 MARKETING 市場推广部 Senior Marketing & Communications Manager Ronny Pang 高级市场及传讯经理 彭秋影 Senior Marketing & Communications Executive Grace Tam 高级市场及传讯主任 谭淑恩 CIRCULATION & SUBSCRIPTION 发行及订阅部 Assistant Media Services Manager Bonnie Law 助理媒体服务经理 罗凤伦 PRODUCTION 制作部 Production Manager Jennifer So 制作部经理 苏丽娟 Senior Designer Eva Kam 高级设计师 甘铭灵 Senior Exhibitions Administrative Executive Natalie Chan 珠宝展览部高级行政主任 陈晓盈 ADVERTISING REPRESENTATIVES 广告代理 China 中国: 广州代表处胡淑晶 | Tel 电话: (86) 20 8666 0158 Email 电邮: [email protected] Germany 德国: Liz Dobelmann | Tel 电话: (49) 721 384 1881 Email 电邮: [email protected] Italy 意大利: Mauro Arati | Tel 电话: (39) 02048517853 Email 电邮: [email protected] Japan 日本: Nobuaki Nito | Tel 电话: (81) 3 52961020 Email 电邮: [email protected] Taiwan 台湾: Rita Hung | Tel 电话: (886) 2 2738 3898 Email 电邮: [email protected] Thailand 泰国: Anna Vichvech | Tel 电话: (66) 2 036 0500 Email 电邮: [email protected] US 美国: Bonnie Chan | Tel 电话: (1) 347 906 4693 Email 电邮: [email protected] President & CEO – Asia Margaret Ma Connolly 亚洲主席及行政总裁 马颖 Senior Vice President – Asia David Bondi 亚洲高级副总裁 庞大为 Director of Jewellery Fairs Celine Lau 珠宝展览部总监 刘小雯 Published by Informa Markets 出版 1701-1705, China Resources Building, 26 Harbour Road, Wanchai, Hong Kong 香港湾仔港湾道26号华润大厦1701-1705室 Email 电邮: [email protected] JewelleryNet.com
8 | JNA May/June 2022 MARKET INDICATORS The Fuchsia Rose diamond ring Fuchsia Rose粉鑽戒指 Lab-grown diamond jewellery 實驗室培育鑽石首飾 Photo courtesy of Loyale Paris 照片由Loyale Paris提供 Price achieved for a platinum ring adorned with an 8.82-carat fancy intense purple-pink diamond centre stone at Christie’s Magnificent Jewels auction in New York in April. The type IIA VVS1 clarity natural diamond, named Fuchsia Rose, beat pre-sales estimates of US$4 million to US$6 million. The ring is further embellished with two 0.61-carat pear-shaped brilliant-cut diamonds. 佳士得在4月于纽约举行的瑰丽珠宝拍卖会上，一枚以 8.82克拉浓彩紫粉红色钻石为主石的铂金戒指，以该 价格成交。名为Fuchsia Rose的IIA型VVS1净度天然钻 石，成交价超过了400万至600万美元的拍卖前估价。 戒指上还缀有两颗0.61克拉的梨形明亮式切割钻石。 Percentage of respondents who are aware of lab-grown diamonds and are purchasing these for themselves and as gifts for others, according to MVI Marketing LLC’s 2022 Next Gen Consumer Lab-Grown Diamond Market Research Report, titled, It Takes a Long Time to Become Young. The study, published in March, surveyed 754 US consumers that include 59 per cent female and 41 per cent male participants, aged 20 to 35 years old. 对实验室培育钻石具有意识，并以此犒赏自己和馈赠 别人的受访者的百分比。该数据出自市场研究公司MVI Marketing LLC，以《经过漫长岁月，才会变得年轻》为题 的“2022年下一代消费者实验室培育钻石市场研究报 告”。该报告于3月发表，共访问了754名美国消费者，其 中59%为女性，41%为男性，年龄介乎20至35岁之间。 72% US$6.78M 678万美元 US$39.15B 391.5亿美元 India’s gemstone and jewellery exports in fiscal year 20202021, representing a 54 per cent year-on-year growth, data from the Gem & Jewellery Export Promotion Council (GJEPC) showed. Colin Shah, chairman of GJEPC, attributed solid exports performance to the resilience of the country’s gem and jewellery sector and robust market demand amid Covid-related challenges. Cut and polished diamonds accounted for 62 per cent of total exports of US$24.24 billion, fuelled by demand from the US, the United Arab Emirates, Belgium and Israel. 印度宝石和珠宝出口促进委员会(GJEPC)透露，在2020至2021财 年，该国的宝石和珠宝出口额同比增长54%。GJEPC 主席Colin Shah将稳健的出口表现归功于印度宝石和珠宝行业的韧性，还 有在疫情挑战中仍然呈现强劲需求。在美国、阿联酋、比利时和以 色列的需求驱动下，切割和已打磨钻石占出口总额242.4亿美元 的62%。 1亿
JNA May/June 2022 | 9 市场指标 Online Trade Updates 新闻快讯 Stable market supports US jewellery sales 美国珠宝销售额因市场回稳而上升 De Beers Group enters Angola 戴比尔斯集团进驻安哥拉 Pandemic hits Chow Tai Fook sales 疫情打击周大福销售表现 Jewellery retail sales in the US continued to soar in March, demonstrating solid recovery in consumer spending. Data from Mastercard SpendingPulseTM showed jewellery sales were up 11.9 per cent in March 2022 versus 2021 and by 78.8 per cent compared to March 2019. 美国的珠宝零售额在3月份飙升，显示自从当局实施严格封锁措施后两年， 消费者的消费额已持续回升。万事达卡SpendingPulseTM的数据显示，2022年3月珠宝销售额比2021年上升了11.9%， 与2019年3月相比则飙升78.8%。 The group’s two mineral investment contracts with Angola set the stage for the miner’s expansive exploration activities following reforms in the country’s diamond sector. The contracts cover exploration to mining operations and span a period of 35 years. 该集团与安哥拉签订的两份矿产投资合同为该国钻石行业改革后矿商的广泛勘探活动奠定了基础。 这些合同涵盖从勘探到采矿作业，期限为35年。每个特许区将由戴比尔斯集团和安哥拉国有钻石公司Endiama组成的 新合资公司持有。 Chow Tai Fook Jewellery Group Ltd said sales in major markets were adversely affected by the latest wave of Covid19 cases, which dampened retail businesses and consumer sentiment. The jeweller’s latest financial report showed declines in China (11.3 per cent), Hong Kong and Macau (21.9 per cent). Macau however posted a 27.9 per cent growth in sales. 周大福珠宝集团有限公司表示，新一轮疫情压抑零售业务和消费者情绪。据该公司的最新数据显示，各地销售 额均录得跌幅：中国内地(11.3%)、香港地区及澳门地区(21.9%)。然而，由于澳门地区的旅游消费复苏和当地消费渐趋 稳定，令销售额增长27.9%。 Our digital platform provides additional content for an even more comprehensive industry perspective. Scan the QR code for the full story and more trade news. 我们的数字平台载有更多更全面的行业视角报道，请扫瞄二维码查看全文和更多行业信息。 news.jewellerynet.com/en/jnanews 17.9% Decline in China’s jewellery sales in March 2022, data from the National Statistics Bureau of China showed. First-quarter sales of gold, silver and jewellery meanwhile rose 7.6 per cent. China is witnessing huge spikes in Covid-19 cases as the country fights off its latest pandemic wave. Jewellery sales in January and February were up 19.5 per cent. 中国国家统计局发布的2022年3月中 国珠宝销售下降的幅度。与此同时，第 一季度的金、银和珠宝销售额则上升了 7.6%。中国内地近日确诊病例激增，并 正积极对抗新一波疫情。相比之下，1月 和2月的珠宝销售额增幅达19.5%。 181.4 Moz 1.814亿盎司 Global silver jewellery demand in 2021 in million ounces, according to the World Silver Survey 2022. The figure is up 21 per cent from 2020 levels, with major markets such as India and the US driving the growth. The Silver Institute-commissioned survey said this demonstrates the sector’s strong rebound, supported by worldwide easing of Covid restrictions, economic recovery and improving buyer sentiment. Demand is expected to grow 11 per cent this year. 2021年全球银饰的需求。数据来自2022年《世界白银调查》报告， 比2020年上升了21%，并由印度和美国等主要市场带动。世界白银协会 委托机构进行的调查显示，上升趋势证明该行业反弹强劲，并可归因于 全球新冠疫情限制放松、经济复甦和消费者情绪改善等因素。今年的需 求预计将增长11%。 亿美元
SPECIAL FEATURES 10 | JNA May/June 2022 Trailblazing jewellery brands are revolutionising the way we experience luxury as the market navigates a progressively digital environment. 随着市场渐趋数字化，珠宝业的先驱品牌致力革新奢华体验。 | Bernardette Sto. Domingo 杜明高 | NFT开创珠宝业活力前景 There was a time when the only way to show the world your latest luxury purchase is by donning it in public or displaying it on social media. Fastforward to 2022 and your avatar – your digital identity residing in an immersive digital space – could wear the digital versions of these luxury goods in the form of nonphysical assets such as non-fungible tokens (NFTs). We are, after all, gradually exploring the so-called metaverse, which the New York Times defined as a fully realised digital environment that exists beyond the physical world. And owning and displaying NFTs is another step towards the metaverse. But what exactly are NFTs? Fungible pertains to items that can be traded for the exact same thing, like the US dollar, as opposed to non-fungible, which means something that cannot be replaced. An example is a customised jewellery piece, which cannot be exchanged with any other jewellery item. NFTs are just as unique. These are digital representations of intangible goods that exist on a shared and decentralised platform like the blockchain, but these tokens can also be attached to physical goods. In the world of collectibles, NFTs convert digital works of art into one-of-a-kind, verifiable assets that exist on the blockchain. Tokens are usually purchased using cryptocurrencies like Ethereum. the NFT world Vibrant jewellery prospects in People want their avatars to look like them in the metaverse 人们渴望拥有外貌相近的元宇宙虚拟化身
专题报道 JNA May/June 2022 | 11 NFTs are playing a crucial role in the transition from universe to metaverse. These NFTs – watches or jewellery – become collectors’ items because of their unique story. People want to buy a story, an experience. – Erik A. Jens Brands are taking notice of the massive business potential of NFTs. Data from market tracker DappRadar showed that NFT trades reached more than US$23 billion in 2021 and US$12 billion in the first quarter of 2022 alone. Apparel giant Nike, Inc recently bought RTFKT Studios, a virtual company that makes NFTs and shoes for the metaverse. According to Nike, the acquisition accelerates its digital transformation as it plans to provide virtual products and experiences and extend its metaverse footprint. Other big brands like Coca-Cola, Gucci and Adidas have likewise dipped their toes into NFT waters. The luxury jewellery and watch industry is also catching up to the NFT phenomenon. In December last year, coloured gemstone expert Gemfields introduced “The Chipembele Crash,” a series of six distinctive rhinoceros avatars made of photographed inclusions from the 7,525-carat Chipembele emerald, which is Gemfields’ largest top-quality emerald to date. Proceeds from the sale will go to the North Luangwa Conservation Programme to support efforts to protect black rhinoceros in Zambia. Each NFT comes with a proof of donation. Multi-awarded jewellery artist Reena Ahluwalia meanwhile blazed a trail in the diamond trade when she unveiled her first foray in the metaverse – a series of truly exceptional diamond art NFTs, which are now hosted on the NFT marketplace, OpenSea. Payal Shah, the creative mind behind luxury jewellery brand L’Dezen, likewise launched a hybrid NFT that consists of both physical and digital versions of a bespoke pair of diamond earrings. Bulgari most recently presented Octo Finissimo, the world’s thinnest mechanical watch, with a US$440,000 price tag. It comes with an exclusive NFT artwork accessible through a QR code engraved on the barrel cover. When scanned, this reveals the story behind the making of the watch. The NFT attraction In an interview with JNA, Ahluwalia, who received a Guinness World Record for her diamond painting on the dial of the Mudan diamond watch by Coronet, highlighted the historical significance of her NFT initiative since it is the first of its kind in both the NFT and diamond space. “The digital artworks are my hand-painted diamonds that I digitised to reveal their power, symbolism and more importantly, characteristics that connect to our own individual spirit,” explained Ahluwalia. The collection includes ultra-rare edition, 1 of 1 alongside limited editions, 10 of 10. Proceeds from the sale will benefit Jewelers for Children Charity to aid young victims of catastrophic illnesses, abuse or neglect. NFTs appeal to the inherent desire of humans to collect items that resonate with their personal beliefs and aspirations. “With NFTs, those who invest in physical jewellery or diamonds can now collect and own digital jewellery and diamonds and have an immersive 3D experience in the metaverse,” she added. Diamond NFTs are also being viewed as the first digital asset that is as “forever” as a real diamond, said Jonathan Kendall, founder and CEO of start-up Diamonds4crypto.com and co-founder of blockchain service provider Diamond Ancestry. The 'Ocean' green-blue diamond art NFT from Reena Ahluwalia’s DIAMOND-VERSE NFT series 这幅"海洋"绿蓝色钻石NFT加密艺 术品，来自Reena Ahluwalia的DIAMOND-VERSE NFT系列
SPECIAL FEATURES 12 | JNA May/June 2022 NFTs are also the most ideal way to memorialise a diamond’s distinctive characteristics and authenticity from mine to consumer, noted Kendall. This notion is especially attractive to younger buyers who value digital representations of ownership more than older generations do. “It is expected that in the near future, all tangible assets of real value will have a blockchain digital asset to accompany them,” he continued. The low-cost yet global network that digital assets live on contribute to the allure of NFTs. This unique feature enables meaningful assets to be “owned” by the consumer in a way that Web 2.0 platforms cannot. Investopedia.com defines Web 2.0 and Web 3.0 as successive iterations of the web, compared with the original Web 1.0 of the 1990s and early 2000s. Web 2.0 is the current version of the Internet as we know it while Web 3.0 represents its next, more advanced phase. “NFTs for tangible diamonds are often used as a certificate of authenticity or CoA. Unlike paper or physical CoAs, a digital CoA can be embodied with significantly more information than before. These include images, videos, manufacturing documentation and grading reports, to name a few – all authenticated and memorialised in a single NFT,” explained Kendall. Erik A. Jens, founder of LuxuryFintech, said NFTs are not entirely new and have been around for many years since the advent of blockchain technology. A sudden NFT boom in the arts sector triggered the rise of NFTs in the jewellery trade. This presented myriads of new opportunities for jewellers. With people increasingly becoming engaged in the metaverse gaming world where they can create avatars or digital versions of themselves, “dressing” or “accessorising” one’s metaverse personality has become a growing trend. Jens explained, “People are connected in this gaming world. For instance, they can buy Nike shoes for their avatars. And the hope is that the person buying an NFT for his avatar will later buy Nike shoes for himself to match with his avatar.” NFT profile pictures or PFPs have also become covetable property in the NFT world, and some fashion companies have started “dressing” celebrity and influencer PFPs as an alternative way to market their goods to tech-savvy audiences. The same concept can be applied to the jewellery trade where brands and designers can adorn celebrity PFPs to introduce and promote jewellery collections. “The possibilities are truly endless,” said Ahluwalia. “The metaverse can be viewed as a fully functioning economy where an NFT owner can celebrate his or her individuality by wearing virtual jewellery in an expansive digital world.” Jens agreed, adding that industry leaders like Bulgari and Nike have already envisioned this Reena Ahluwalia We will be limiting ourselves if we dismiss the power of collecting digital assets. We live in an increasingly digital world, and we will soon own multiple digital assets and experiences, including jewellery and diamonds. – Reena Ahluwalia
专题报道 JNA May/June 2022 | 13 possibility. The metaverse is a whole new world or platform where companies can explore non-conventional digital marketing and sales strategies, he added. With NFTs, jewellers can more effectively sell the story behind a jewellery piece or diamond, including its mine to market journey to guarantee provenance, sustainability and authenticity. Blockchain technology also creates immutable proof of ownership, effectively preventing fraud, remarked Jens. How NFTs work Ahluwalia explained that owning an NFT gives you the right to sell it and make profit. It can also be programmed to grant perpetual royalties to the creator every time the NFT changes hands. NFTs can likewise be endowed with many features such as charitable donations, membership to organisations or access to exclusive events – a further testament to a more seamless connection between the digital and physical realm. Jewellers who want to enter the NFT space can explore various ways to tokenise or mint their jewellery or diamonds as an NFT. “Since NFTs live on the Ethereum blockchain, these are one of a kind. You can create an original digital asset like a JPEG, GIF or video of your jewellery to mint as an NFT. It can also be paired with a physical jewellery,” revealed Ahluwalia. Kendall added that an NFT when related to a physical diamond serves as its CoA and the NFT’s value is entirely driven by the value of the real diamond. In the same vein, the value of the tangible diamond is represented by a digital asset that cannot be manipulated or altered, thereby ensuring continuity of the lineage and authenticity of the diamond. “The most valuable NFT models utilise decentralised, open-source and permissionless blockchains. Diamond Ancestry deploys the same resilient model and ethos as Bitcoin, ensuring a truly global and hack-resistant digital asset,” he continued. Future of NFTs in jewellery Jens, who worked with Ahluwalia in developing her NFT series, said his collaboration with the jewellery designer will continue as the future remains bright for diamond NFTs. His company, LuxuryFintech, is planning new initiatives related to the use of NFTs as a funding model for diamond finance but these are in the early stages. There is no doubt however that opportunities abound for NFTs in the jewellery trade, he added. The challenge is education and telling a compelling narrative to help the market understand what NFTs are and what they can do. Kendall, for his part, revealed that a range of developments is underway at Diamonds4Crypto, including projects that will allow consumers to memorialise life’s moments associated with their diamonds by saving those into an NFT. He also shares Jens’ sentiment of a dazzling future for NFTs. He noted, “The brightest spots are authenticity and trust that is derived from using blockchain digital assets. It is also a more diverse way for manufacturers to immerse their customers in their product/brand. Education however will be the greatest challenge.” With the physical and digital space inevitably coexisting and enhancing each other in the luxury world, jewellers must develop a digital strategy for storytelling, said Ahluwalia. “The challenges in the NFT space are more to do with legality, ethics, copyright considerations, licensing, anti-money laundering regulations, data protection and privacy law. The rapid rise of NFTs over the last few months means that the law is yet to catch up with this phenomenon. Regulatory bodies and governments will have to move quickly to keep up,” she added. The ‘Diamond Vision’ NFT by Reena Ahluwalia is an edition 1 of 1. The NFT comes with an original physical drawing. 这幅特别版NFT加密艺术品"钻石视觉"由Reena Ahluwalia创作，同时 备有实体绘画原作
SPECIAL FEATURES 14 | JNA May/June 2022 曾几何时，在公共场合或社交媒体上展示奢侈 品，是向世界炫耀的唯一方法。到了2022年，您 的avatar头像——即您沉浸在数字空间里的身 分，已可佩戴数字版奢侈品——非同质化代币(NFT)就是 其中一种数字世界里非有形的表达方式。 毕竟，我们仍在逐步探索所谓的元宇宙。《纽约时报》 将之定义为实质世界以外的完整数字环境。拥有和展示 NFT是迈向元宇宙的另一步，但NFT究竟是什么？ “同质化”是指可以用完全相同的东西进行交易，例 如是美元；而“非同质化”则意味着不能替换，如定制珠宝 就不能被其他珠宝取代。独一无二的NFT是以数字形式 呈现的无形商品，并储存在区块链等共享和去中心化平 台，但这些代币亦可以附加在实体物品上。 在收藏范畴，NFT将数字艺术品转换为独特的可验证 资产，通常在以太坊等平台使用加密货币购买。 不少品牌已窥见NFT的庞大商机。市场追踪机构 DappRadar表示，NFT的2021年交易额超越230亿美元， 而仅在2022年首季就达到120亿美元。 最近被运动服饰巨头耐克公司收购的 R T F K T Studios，是一家为元宇宙制作NFT和鞋子的虚拟公司。 耐克表示，是次收购加速了其数字化转型，该公司正计划 提供虚拟产品和体验，扩大在元宇宙的足迹。可口可乐、 古驰和爱迪达等品牌亦已迈进NFT领域。 高级珠宝和手表也赶上NFT的炽热势头。2021年12 月，彩宝专家Gemfields为庆祝发现屹今以来最大颗重 达7,525克拉的顶级Chipembele犀牛祖母绿，特意推出 了“Chipembele Crash NFT”系列——由六枚独特的犀牛 虚拟 销头 售像 收组 益成 将。 拨入北卢安瓜保育计划，支持保护赞比亚 的黑犀牛。每枚NFT都附带捐赠证明。 屡获殊荣的珠宝艺术家Reena Ahluwalia，把钻石艺 术NFT作品展示于OpenSea市场平台，在钻石业开创 先河 P 。 ayal Shah是高级珠宝品牌L'Dezen的创作人，同样 推出了混合式NFT作品——分别是实体和数字版本的定 制钻 宝石 格耳 丽环 最 近 推 出 全 球 最 薄 的 机 械 手 表 O c t o Finissimo，售价44万美元。手表附带独家的NFT艺术品， 可透过扫描发条鼓盖上的二维码读取，亦会揭示手表的 制作故事。 NFT的吸引力 Ahluwalia凭藉在Corone“t 牡丹”钻石手表的表盘上 创作钻石画，刷新吉尼斯世界纪录。她在与《JNA亚洲珠 宝》的访问中表示，其NFT项目在钻石和NFT领域皆属首 创，极具历史意义。她解释：“我的手绘钻石画化成数字艺 术品，展示其力量、象征意义，以及与个人精神互相联系 的特 系质 列。”包括稀有孤品和十件多版限量作品，收益将拨 给“珠宝商儿童慈善组织”，为罹患严重疾病、受虐待或忽 视的儿童提供援助。 NFT唤醒了人类与生具来的收集欲望。她补充：“投资 实体珠宝或钻石的人士，现在可以透过NFT拥有数字化 版本，在元宇宙获得亲历其境的3D体验。” Jonathan Kendall是初创公司Diamonds4crypto. com的创始人兼首席执行官，以及区块链服务供应商 Diamond Ancestry的联合创始人。他表示，NFT钻石是首 个与实体钻石一样拥有“永恒”状态的数字资产。 NFT还记录了钻石从矿场到消费者过程中呈现的独 特性和真实性，对着重数字所有权的年轻买家别具吸引 力。他称：“所有具实际价值的有形资产，预计快将衍生区 块链 数数 字字 资资 产产 成。”本低而且覆盖全球，有助提升NFT的吸引 力，并使消费者以Web 2.0平台无法达到的方式“拥有” 资产 In 。 vestopedia.com指出，与1990年代和2000年代初 的Web 1.0原始互联网模式相比，现今的Web 2.0和更进 一步的Web 3.0可定义为互联网的逐次叠代。 Kendall解释：“实体钻石的NFT通常用作真品证书 (CoA)，所包含的资料比实体证书更丰富，如图像、视频、 生产文件和分级报告等。” LuxuryFintech创始人Erik A. Jens表示，NFT自区块 链技术面世以来其实已经存在多年。但随着艺术界突然 掀起NFT热潮，便触发珠宝业仿效。 这点无疑为珠宝商提供机遇：越来越多人投入元宇宙 的游戏世界，创建虚拟化身，而为这些角色“穿衣”或“佩 戴饰品”已成为潮流。 Jens解释：“人们在游戏世界互相联系，为虚拟化身 购买NFT耐克鞋之余，可能也会为自己买同款实体鞋，配 合数字世界的装扮。” NFT个人头像(PFP)也让人渴求。一些时装公司已经 开始“装扮”名人和网红的PFP，从而推销商品。珠宝品牌 和设计师也可以为名人的PFP缀上珠宝。 Ahluwalia说：“当中的可能性无穷无尽。元宇宙是一 个完整而广阔的经济体，NFT持有者可以透过佩戴虚拟 珠宝来展现个性。” Jens深表同意，并指出宝格丽和耐克早已预见这种 可能性。他说，元宇宙是一个全新的世界或平台，让各公 Erik A. Jens of LuxuryFintech LuxuryFintech的创始人Erik A. Jens
专题报道 JNA May/June 2022 | 15 司探索数字营销策略。珠宝商可以借助NFT更有效地宣 传珠宝或钻石的故事，包括呈现从矿场到市场的旅程， 作为正品保证。Jens又称，区块链也可创造不可改变的 所有权证明，还有产品来源和真实性的信息，有效防止 欺诈。 NFT的应用 Ahluwalia表示，NFT的主人有权将其出售并获利，还 可以编程为每次转售时向原作者授予永久版税。 NFT还可以添加慈善捐赠、会员资格或参加独家活动 等功能。珠宝商可以轻易地将珠宝或钻石标记或铸造成 NFT。Ahluwalia透露：“NFT存在于以太坊区块链上，是独 一无二的。原始数字资产如JPEG、GIF或珠宝视频可铸造 成NFT，还可以与实体珠宝搭配。” Kendall表示，实体钻石的NFT可担当CoA报告。 NFT的价值完全由有形钻石驱动，反之实体钻石则由 不可操纵或篡改的数字资产来代表，以确保来源的连续 性和 他真 继实 续性 ：“。 最有价值的NFT模式采用去中心化、开源和 无需许可的区块链。Diamond Ancestry运用媲美比特币 的高韧性模式和价值精神，确保数字资产具全球性和抗 黑客的特质。” NFT在珠宝业的未来 Jens曾与Ahluwalia合作开发NFT系列，他表示，NFT 钻石的未来依然光明，两人将会继续合作。他的公司 LuxuryFintech正初步计划NFT钻石融资新项目，并补 充，NFT在珠宝业机会充裕，挑战在于市场教育工作和营 造说 K 服 en 力 da 。 ll表示，Diamonds4Crypto正在进行一系列开 发工作，让消费者将与钻石相关的人生纪念时刻保存到 NFT 他中 指。 出：“重点在于区块链数字资产所衍生的真实性 和信任度。制造商也能掌握更多样化的形式，令客户沉浸 在产品或品牌之中。然而，教育工作将会是最大的挑战。” Ahluwalia说，在奢侈品领域，随着实体和数字空间逐 渐共存和互相提升，珠宝商必须制定数字化叙事策略。 “NFT范畴的挑战在于其合法性、道德标准、版权考 虑、授权、反洗钱法规、数据保护和私隐法。最近NFT迅速 崛起，意味着法律尚未赶及应对这个现象。监管机构和政 府必须加快行动跟上步伐。” Jonathan Kendall of Diamonds4Crypto Diamonds4Crypto的创始人Jonathan Kendall
SPECIAL FEATURES 16 | JNA May/June 2022 Jewellery & Gem WORLD (JGW), long identified with Hong Kong, is moving to Singapore this year in a one-off arrangement. Informa Markets Jewellery officials divulge details of the in-person wholesale event and its role in the company’s roadmap for the future. 环球盛事｜九月珠宝首饰展览会 (简称JGW) 是一年一度在香港举行的全球珠宝业瞩目盛事，今年主办机构作出特别安排，把本届 的展会暂时移师新加坡举行。Informa Markets Jewellery透露这次实体展会的详情， 以及其在该公司发展蓝图上的重要角色。 | Olivia Quiniquini 程爱莉 | 环球珠宝业界将重聚于JGW新加坡展 Jewellery & Gem WORLD (JGW) is taking place in Singapore this year in a one-off special arrangement to provide a much-awaited, in-person sourcing experience to bolster business after the pandemicinduced lockdowns of the last two years. Organised by Informa Markets Jewellery, JGW Singapore will be held from September 27 to 30 at the Singapore Expo. The world’s biggest B2B jewellery event returns to Hong Kong in 2023. “To make JGW’s global return possible, we have to temporarily relocate from our Hong Kong home base to an alternative venue, which has rationalised its border restrictions, resumed large-scale business events and successfully implemented safe-management measures. Singapore fulfils all these requirements and more,” explained David Bondi, senior vice president at Informa Markets in Asia. A global business hub and gateway to Asia, Singapore has relaxed its travel and Covid restrictions, making the city more accessible to international buyers and sellers. Since April 1, quarantine-free entry is granted to fully vaccinated arrivals. JGW Singapore however represents more than a change of venue, noted Bondi. JGW set to welcome international trade in Singapore
专题报道 JNA May/June 2022 | 17 To make JGW’s global return possible, we have to temporarily relocate from our Hong Kong home base to an alternative venue, which has rationalised its border restrictions, resumed large-scale business events and successfully implemented safe-management measures. Singapore fulfils all these requirements and more. – David Bondi, senior vice president at Informa Markets in Asia. “This year’s fair may be smaller in scale compared with previous editions but it is among the most significant in its nearly four-decade history. JGW Singapore is widely viewed as a turning point for our industry – a chance for our community to regroup, plan and fine-tune return-togrowth strategies in a post-pandemic world,” he noted. Industry response has been overwhelmingly positive, according to Celine Lau, director of Jewellery Fairs at Informa Markets Jewellery. She said, “Even against the background of a pandemic, Singapore has the capacity to securely and efficiently host the world’s most iconic jewellery show.” Diverse product ranges A global sourcing event, JGW Singapore will cover the entire jewellery supply chain, with product-specific pavilions for easy navigation. Aside from the Diamond, Pearl and Coloured Gemstone Pavilions to cater to jewellers’ loose precious materials requirements, highlights include the Premier Pavilion, a section dedicated to jewellery masterpieces, design-focused fine collections and investment-quality gemstones for wholesalers, retailers, brands and highnet worth buyers. Showcases on distinct finished jewellery collections spanning the Antique, Coloured Gemstone, Diamond, Fei Cui (Jadeite Jade), Pearl, Pre-owned, Silver and LabGrown Diamond categories likewise await visitors. Industry associations from Germany, Italy, Turkey, Hong Kong, Thailand, Singapore, South Africa, India and Sri Lanka also intend to amplify their presence at the show. In-person trading Suppliers said they are looking forward to meeting with buyers with clear sourcing intentions and are ready to present in-stock products for onsite order-writing. Gold & Silver Italian Group, a consortium representing more than a hundred jewellery manufacturers producing “Made in Italy” collections, said around 30 of its membercompanies are anticipated to impress international buyers with their product showcases at the Singapore event. “It is important that our members participate in this show to rebuild relationships with their existing customers in the Far East – many of whom they have not seen since 2019 – and forge partnerships with new clients,” the Group said. “We are looking forward to engaging with buyers from all over world, especially wholesalers from Asia.” The Antwerp World Diamond Center (AWDC), which represents Belgium’s diamond community, said “establishing contacts with new clients from across the globe is a critical factor” for Antwerp diamantaires who will participate in JGW Singapore, in addition to reconnecting face to face with their existing customers. The global coloured gemstone trade is likewise gearing up for one of the industry’s most anticipated events of the year, said Gary Roskin, CEO of the International Colored Stone Association (ICA), which is fielding around 25 member-companies at the show. “In-person trade shows are the lifeblood of the coloured gemstone industry,” he said. “It is difficult to show the exquisite details of such small works of art over a phone connection. It is at physical fairs where merchants and buyers meet to get a first-hand look and feel for the gems they are about to purchase.” David Bondi, senior vice president of Informa Markets in Asia Informa Markets亚洲区高级副总裁庞大为
SPECIAL FEATURES 18 | JNA May/June 2022 JGW Singapore is anticipated to attract international trade visitors with real buying authority, particularly from Southeast Asia, Australia and New Zealand, North America, Europe, South America and the Middle East. Solid buyer participation is likewise expected from Hong Kong, which is gradually easing anti-Covid measures. Lau shared, “For many, JGW Singapore could just be the first event in nearly three years where they would get to see and touch fine diamonds, coloured gemstones, pearls and finished jewellery from the world’s biggest and best suppliers. This event also gives them the opportunity to reconnect with colleagues, meet new faces, and discover the latest trends either through planned or chance encounters – something that online events cannot fully replace." Sourcing opportunities JGW Singapore is a linchpin in Informa Markets Jewellery’s 2022 roadmap, which sees the event organiser seizing new opportunities to restore in-person marketplaces for the sustainable recovery of the gem and jewellery industry. Complementing the Singapore wholesale buying event are special editions of Informa Markets Jewellery’s signature Jewellery & Gem fairs in Hong Kong in June and September. Both open to B2B buyers and jewellery lovers, the special-edition fairs are also expected to draw China-based visitors once cross-border travel resumes. In addition, Jewellery & Gem ASEAN Bangkok will launch at the Queen Sirikit National Convention Center from November 2 to 5. The industry’s final B2B sourcing event of the year, the show offers cash-and-carry sourcing opportunities for buyers – more specifically, Southeast Asia-based manufacturers, wholesalers and retailers – who need to restock inventories quickly and efficiently for the Christmas and New Year selling season. And JGW returns to Hong Kong next year. Bondi said the city’s free port status, absence of currency control and proximity to mainland China – the engine driving global luxury consumption – make it a unique and irreplaceable international event destination. The way forward The Singapore pivot also attests to Informa Markets Jewellery’s business agility in the face of pandemicrelated upheavals. Bondi admitted that the last two years had tested the company’s resilience, ingenuity and creativity, requiring it to be flexible, nimble and open to exploring new ideas and possibilities to serve its community’s immediate and future needs. “The fact that we were bold enough to launch a new show in Dubai in February, are temporarily relocating our flagship show from Hong Kong to Singapore, and are debuting a new fair in Bangkok when the world is still reeling from Omicron says a lot about how the pandemic has transformed us for the better,” he remarked. Lau noted that buyers and suppliers are ready to return to in-person shows but have become more 环球盛事 | 九月珠宝首饰展览会(简称JGW)今年 特别移师新加坡举行。过去两年各地因疫情而 实施封锁后，从业者皆翘首以待此次盛会，尽 情享受现场采购的体验，并促进业界复甦。 JGW新加坡展由Informa Markets Jewellery主办，将 于9月27日至30日假座新加坡博览中心举行。到了2023 年，这项全球最大型的珠宝贸易盛会将重返香港。“为了 让JGW重返国际舞台，我们特别将这个一直在香港地区 举行的盛事，暂时迁至另一地点举行。该城市必须已放宽 旅游措施、重办大型商贸活动和有效地实施卫生安全举 措。新加坡正能满足所有条件。”Informa Markets亚洲区 高级副总裁庞大为解释。 作为全球商业枢纽和通往亚洲的门户，新加坡已放 宽了各项旅游和防疫措施，让国际买家和供应商更易于 前往该国。从4月1日起，已完成接种疫苗的旅客可免检 疫入 然境 而。 庞大为指出，JGW新加坡展除了地点不同之外， 还有更深层的意义。他说：“与往届相比，今年的展会规模 可能比较小，但它是展会创办近40年来最有意义的其中 一届。JGW新加坡展被普遍视为珠宝业的转捩点，让业 界在后疫情时代重振旗鼓，重新计划未来，是调整增长策 略的 In 良 fo 机 rm。” a Markets Jewellery珠宝展览部总监刘小雯 表示，行业对展会安排的反应非常积极。她说：“在疫情期 间，新加坡可以让我们安全和有效地举办这场全球最具 标志性的珠宝展。” selective of what fairs to attend as more options become available. She asserted that Informa Markets Jewellery is committed to providing safe and enjoyable sourcing experiences that deliver the results the industry needs. “Market uncertainties and challenges remain but pent-up demand and ‘revenge shopping’ are driving jewellery sales, especially in the wedding, celebration and self-gifting product categories. The opportunities are there, and we want to make sure our industry stakeholders are in the best position to capture those sales,” Lau said. JGW returns to Hong Kong in 2023 2023年JGW旗舰展将重返香港举行
专题报道 JNA May/June 2022 | 19 琳琅满目的展品 JGW新加坡展的多元展品将涵盖整个珠宝业供应 链，并划分为不同的产品展区，让采购旅程更加轻松便 捷。除了专为采购珠宝原材料而设的钻石馆、珍珠馆及 彩色宝石馆外，对于批发商、零售商、品牌商和收藏家 而言，Premier Pavilion绝对不容错过。该展馆专门展出 各色珠宝杰作、以设计为主导的高级首饰系列和投资级 宝石。各种类别的成品首饰系列，包括古董、彩宝、钻石、 翡翠、珍珠、二手、白银及培育钻石等首饰。 来自德国、意大利、土耳其、香港地区、泰国、新加坡、 南非、印度和斯里兰卡的行业协会，亦会在展会中施展 浑身解数。 面谈洽商好时机 供应商表示，他们期待在展会中跟采购意向明确的买 家会晤，向他们展示产品，达成交易。代表百多家标榜“意 大利制造”的珠宝生产商的Gold & Silver Italian Group表 示，预料约有30家会员公司前往参与JGW新加坡展，为 国际买家呈献各款珠宝首饰。 该机构表示：“对我们的会员公司而言，这次参加新加 坡展是十分重要的。展会能让他们与远东地区的固有客 户重建关系，当中不少公司自2019年起便没有跟当地合 作伙伴碰面；同时亦可跟新客户建立商脉，共创商机。我 们期待与世界各地的买家会晤，特别是亚洲的批发商。” 而代表比利时钻石业界的安特卫普世界钻石中心 (AWDC)亦强调，对参加JGW新加坡展的安特卫普钻石商 来说，除了跟现有的客户接触外，“与全球的新买家群开 拓商脉”也是一个关键因素。 国际有色宝石协会(ICA)首席执行官Gary Roskin称， 全球彩宝贸易业者正为这个万众期待的珠宝行业年度盛 会做好准备。他说道：“面对面的实体展确实是彩色宝石 业的命脉。单靠线上方式去展现艺术品般精致的彩宝细 节是很困难的。商家和买家都需要在实体展上，亲身以 视觉和触觉去感受心仪的宝石，并即时进行会晤交谈。” 该协会预计将有约25家会员公司参加是次展会。 JGW新加坡展预计将吸引拥有真正决策权的国际贸 易买家，特别是来自东南亚、澳大利亚和新西兰、北美、欧 洲、南美和中东的买家。 随着香港地区正在逐步放宽防疫措施，预计本地 的买家也将踊跃参与。刘小雯分享道：“对于许多人来 说，JGW新加坡展可能是近三年来，他们首次亲眼欣赏 和接触全球最大型和最优秀的供应商的顶尖钻石、彩色 宝石、珍珠和成品珠宝的机会。”她补充：“这次盛事还让 他们与业界同侪重新联系，结识新面孔，并透过周详计划 或在参观期间发现最新潮流趋势——这是线上展会无法 完全取代的。” 把握采购良机 JGW新加坡展是Informa Markets Jewellery在2022 年发展蓝图上的关键盛会，让业界借此把握新机会，恢复 实体营商市场的动力，实现宝石和珠宝业的可持续复甦。 除了在新加坡举办国际性商贸珠宝展外，Informa Markets Jewellery亦将于6月和9月在香港地区举办两场 具标志性的珠宝展。两场特别展均开放予业内买家和珠 宝爱好者。若届时跨境旅游限制得以放宽，预计将再次吸 引内地买家亲临香港展。 除此之外，Informa Markets Jewellery还将于11月2 至5日首度推出曼谷东盟珠宝首饰展览会(曼谷东盟展)， 地点为曼谷诗丽吉皇后国家会议中心。作为今年最后一 场珠宝贸易展，该展将会以现购自运采购活动为定位，为 东南亚的制造商、批发商和零售商在圣诞和新年旺季前 提供补充库存的机会。 JGW明年盛大回归香港！庞大为表示，香港地区拥有 自由港地位，不实行外汇管制政策，并靠近中国内地这个 全球奢侈品的大型消费市场，使其成为一个独特且无可 取代的地方，是举办国际盛事的理想目的地。 昂首迈步向前 举办新加坡展，也充分体现了Informa Markets Jewellery在面对疫情挑战时的灵活变通。 庞大为承认，过去两年考验了该公司的韧性、独创性 和创意，促使他们随机应变和开放探索崭新概念和可能 性，以满足业界当前和未来的需求。 “当全世界仍对Omicron变种病毒感到担忧之际，我 们果断决定在2月份推出迪拜新展会，并将旗舰展会暂时 从香港迁至新加坡，还有在曼谷推出新展。凡此种种，说 明了疫情其实推动了我们更上一层楼。”他说。 刘小雯指出，买家和供应商已准备好重临实体展览， 但由于市场上出现更多选择，他们亦将更加谨慎挑选展 会。她强调，Informa Markets Jewellery致力提供安全和 愉快的采购体验，以满足行业所需。 她说：“市场的不确定性和挑战依然存在，但随着被压 抑的需求得以释放，加上消费者进行‘报复性购物’，令珠 宝销售额有增无减，特别是婚庆、庆典和自赠礼品类别。 市场上商机涌现，我们也希望确保行业持份者能够最有 效地从贸易活动中得益。”
PERSPECTIVE 20 | JNA May/June 2022 | Bernardette Sto. Domingo 杜明高 | 景福珠宝缔造闪耀里程 builds a sparkling legacy KING FOOK Paulette Sum, CEO of King Fook Holdings Ltd, talks about the company’s influential history in Hong Kong’s jewellery sector as well as forwardmoving strategies for growth. 景福珠宝集团的行政总裁沈美莲，畅谈该公司在 香港地区珠宝业的显赫历史，并前瞻业务发展策略。 Founded in 1949 as King Fook Goldsmiths, King Fook Jewellery has since reached several milestones that helped cement its reputation in Hong Kong’s jewellery sector. Banking on its renowned pedigree and innovative spirit, the company is setting its sights on expansion opportunities and product diversification to reach new highpoints. Paulette Sum, CEO of King Fook Holdings Ltd, sits down with JNA to talk about the jeweller’s dazzling future. JNA: How did King Fook establish its legacy in Hong Kong? Paulette Sum: Since its inception, the company has been guided by the highest level of integrity, diligence and professionalism. King Fook earned a reputation for retailing the purest gold in the market, making us one of Hong Kong’s most trusted jewellers. In 1971, King Fook further expanded its business into luxury jewellery and watches, and officially became the King Fook Jewellery Group. The company entered a new era in 1988 when it was publicly listed on the Hong Kong Stock Exchange as King Fook Holdings Ltd. King Fook continued to diversify and in 1999, it made history by creating the masterpiece by king fook brand – the first and probably the only exclusive premium boutique offering international multilabel jewellery brands in Hong Kong. JNA: Please explain to us the nature of the business. Sum: King Fook and masterpiece by king fook focus on the retailing of gold, luxury jewellery and watches, Paulette Sum, CEO of King Fook Holdings Ltd 景福珠宝集团行政总裁沈美莲
精辟视野 JNA May/June 2022 | 21 and engage third-party suppliers to produce in-house jewellery designs. Suppliers must go through a rigorous selection process and quality control to ensure that they meet our highest standards of workmanship and ethics. At the same time, the exclusive international jewellery brands that we represent have their own manufacturing facilities. The company runs a total of nine stores in Hong Kong – two King Fook Jewellery shops and seven masterpiece by king fook boutiques. Masterpiece by king fook is a separate boutique brand. JNA: What are some of your achievements that have had a strong impact on the jewellery industry? Sum: We were the first in Hong Kong to offer an international multi-label jewellery boutique concept that remains unmatched at present. We have since brought the best of European jewellery design and craftsmanship to Hong Kong shores to meet consumers’ more sophisticated needs. We have introduced four overseas jewellery brands – Palmiero, Mattia Cielo, Annamaria Cammilli and Stenzhorn – to the local market. These brands are all family businesses, chosen for their exclusivity and unique craftsmanship. We have also been awarded the Listed Company Award of Excellence for three consecutive years. This is meaningful since Hong Kong faced major challenges such as political uprisings and the Covid-19 pandemic in 2020 and 2021. The awards affirmed our hard work, especially that of the frontline staff who have demonstrated unparalleled professionalism and dedication. JNA: How did Covid change the jewellery business? Sum: The pandemic has significantly affected store traffic and consumer behaviour. To counteract such an impact, we strengthened our customer relationship management or CRM system and leveraged on technology to provide our clients with more thoughtful and efficient services. The use of big data analysis also allowed us to target better product offers. In addition, we revamped our eShop and transformed it into a more powerful engine to offer a greater variety of products and services. JNA: What can we expect from King Fook in 2022 in terms of new initiatives, product launches and innovative business strategies? Sum: We have been working on different areas of the business to spur growth. Firstly, we have expanded our retail network to Kowloon and New Territories to attract potential customers. Our Harbour City jewellery store opened in November 2019 followed by a shop in New Town Plaza in February 2021. Going forward, we will continue to grow our jewellery business by launching unique jewellery products, including new collections featuring D-colour IF diamonds within the year. Building a solid client base is always a major objective, therefore internal trainings will focus on lifting our services’ standard and strengthening our sales teams’ ability to build stronger relationships with customers. To retain King Fook jewellery shop 景福珠宝门店 ‘The Complication’ ring with emeralds and diamonds in 18-karat yellow and white gold; ‘The Link’ ring with sapphires and diamonds in 18-karat white gold by King Fook Jewellery “The Complication”18K黄金及白金戒指镶嵌祖母绿和钻石， “The Link”18K白金戒指镶嵌蓝宝石和钻石，景福珠宝出品 King Fook Jewellery offers bespoke jewellery design services 景福珠宝提供私人订制珠宝服务
RkJQdWJsaXNoZXIy NjAxOTU=