设计 JNA Mar/Apr 2022 | 35 The idea of someday breathing new life to Vever – one of France’s most renowned jewellers – has been brewing in Camille Vever’s mind since her teenage years after receiving a Vever jewellery piece from her grandmother. Camille, a seventh-generation owner of the company, saw it fit to relaunch Vever in 2021 after 40 years of dormancy. Last year also marked the revered brand's 200th anniversary. The jeweller’s latest collections, unveiled at the 2021 La Biennale in Paris, were in perfect coherence with the aesthetic history of the house: Mythical goddesses and nymphs, and flora and fauna design elements alongside multicoloured enamel in gold all radiating an Art Nouveau spirit. Vever is also injecting its creations with contemporary meaning and social relevance – sustainability. Rich history, dazzling future Founded in 1821 by Pierre-Paul Vever, the company flourished during the Art Nouveau period, with his sons Henri and Paul at the helm. Jewels from Vever were deeply admired and recognised at Universal Exhibitions in Paris. One-of-a-kind and refined, its jewellery was worn by the most influential personalities of the time – from Tsar Alexander III to Empress Eugénie, the Shah of Persia and other stars of the Belle Époque period (1871-1914). Flame Nymph pendant “火焰女神”吊墜 In its workshops, distinguished jewellers such as René Lalique and Eugène Grasset likewise honed their artistic talents. Vever however closed its store at 14 Rue de la Paix in 1982 at a time when independent houses faced tough competition from upcoming luxury giants such as LVMH, which was founded in 1987. Echoing the Art Nouveau movement, which shook up the codes of jewellery design at the turn of the 20th century, the new Vever offers ethical and trendy jewellery pieces, in harmony with society and nature, according to Camille. The house uses recycled gold and lab-grown diamonds while promoting local production and traditional jewellery manufacturing know-how such as plique-à-jour, a beloved but slowly diminishing enamelling technique. It is also a mission-oriented company, a special status provided under French law for those that place resolving societal and environmental challenges at the heart of its business model. New luxury Camille takes this famous quote by Abraham Lincoln to heart: The best way to predict the future is to create it. Guided by this mantra, she used her training in investment and finance to set a new direction for Vever. Her business experience further fuelled the desire to relaunch the family enterprise. Her strong vision and aspiration to celebrate nature and promote ethical production are evident in the revisited themes of Art Nouveau in every Vever jewellery piece. Night Life ring and Papillon Vever jewel “奇妙之夜”戒指及Papillon Vever蝴蝶造型珠宝
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