FOCUS 14 | JNA Mar/Apr 2022 New shapes, new uses Colour is an important aspect of any gem purchase, but custom carvings are on the rise. In their new collection, Synergy & Symbiosis, jewellery artist Paula Crevoshay teamed up with noted gem carver Glenn Lehrer to produce a series of carved gems set in jewellery. “There is a growing movement towards modern art jewellery, exemplified by unusual cuts and colours,” said Martin Bell, vice president of US-based Crevoshay. Another company using interesting cuts is Thailandbased Genuine Gems & Jewellery. “When a new species of sapphire was discovered in Kenya a few years ago, we looked for different ways to bring out its natural beauty,” shared company owner Tanzim Khan, adding that these Gold Sheen™ sapphires continue to increase in popularity in the international market. “Aside from their uniqueness, they are mined in a socially responsible manner,” he continued. While good-quality gems are destined for jewellery or collectors, new uses are emerging for the rest. Thailand-based field gemmologist Vincent Pardieu has documented “gem painters” in Southeast Asia who use low-quality coloured gems to make beautiful works of art. “The benefits of gem painting go beyond the artists,” he said. “Miners are able to get a regular income from the low-quality stones, thus allowing them to continue searching for quality gems. Jobs are created all around, thus helping to eliminate poverty.” Question of ethics While a gem’s quality, colour and shape are certainly important, today’s consumers increasingly want to know if the gem was responsibly sourced. “Ethical supply chain” is more than a buzz phrase. It is an integral part of a gem’s story, telling of its journey from mine to market. Among companies that take ethical supply chains to heart is US-based Virtu Gems, which sources gems from Malawi, Kenya and Zambia. “Our goal is to make mining sustainable and improve conditions in mining communities,” explained co-founder Susan Wheeler. Since her biggest markets are jewellery designers in the US and Europe, Wheeler expects the most soughtafter gems to be trapiche emeralds, unique coloured sapphires, rutilated gems, cat’s eyes, star sapphires and star rubies. Artistic faceting is also a continuing trend in gems such as black tourmaline. A market exists as well for “healing stones with ethical provenance,” she added. France-based gemstone dealer Piat collaborates with Moyo Gems, an organisation working with female artisanal miners in Kenya and Tanzania to ensure better working conditions and fair prices. Company CEO Emmanuel Piat said, “Ethical sourcing, transparency and sustainability are what our main markets in the US, Europe and Asia are asking for.” In terms of favoured gems this year, Piat said, “Mozambique pink rubies and the fluorescent Mahenge spinels will be very popular, while teal and autumn colour sapphires will continue their rise, along with Umba sapphires from Tanzania.” In its March 2021 report on coloured gemstones, Future Market Insights tracked sales in over 20 countries. Based on its research, coloured gem sales are expected to grow at a healthy compound annual growth rate of over 5.7 per cent from 2021-2031, exhibiting a positive recovery from the period of muted growth in 2020. Current market indicators affirm this possibility as the industry moves forward. Selection of teal sapphires from 2 to 3 carats from Imperial Colors Imperial Colors的2至3克拉蓝绿色刚玉 Rectangularmulticolour tourmaline ringwith diamonds in 18-karat white and rose gold by Caratell Caratell18K白金和玫瑰金戒指，上面镶嵌长方形多色碧玺和钻石
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