JNA Mar/ Apr 2022

焦点 JNA Mar/Apr 2022 | 13 expect rising interest in the garnet and tourmaline families, with their wonderful rainbow of choices,” Molesworth added. Promising signs The Covid-19 pandemic has caused serious disruptions in global supply chains, which are still being felt to this day. Restrictions continue to hamper travel between some countries, with negative consequences particularly for Africa. Although artisanal and small-scale miners were able to work, there were few international buyers. Even when large-scale mines reopened after the lockdown, they faced difficulties due to travel restraints and logistical problems. Today, fewer travel restrictions and some re-linking of supply chains indicate signs of recovery. “My outlook is positive,” stated Gamini Zoysa, managing director of Sri Lanka-based Ceylon Gemological Services. “I was recently in the gem trading town of Beruwala and it was packed with traders and buyers, many preparing for the Tucson gem shows.” McLauchlan is optimistic, too. “I think 2022 will be an exciting time for the industry. Production is starting up again, restrictions are being lifted and everyone is keen to get rolling. We expect to see some important business done in the next few months,” he explained. Supply of fine-quality stones is still an issue as prices are very high, but demand for the best is outstripping supply tenfold, if not more, in his main markets of the UK and the US, he added. Philip Zahm, CEO of Philip Zahm Designs in the US, recalled, “When Covid started, everybody was terrified and expected the worst, but things quickly turned around and many jewellers had their best couple of years ever. During this past December and January, they were overwhelmed with demand for coloured stone jewellery and loose gemstones. I feel quite positive about the coloured stone market in 2022.” Michael Koh, owner and creative force behind Singapore-based fine jewellery brand Caratell, believes coloured gems will still be strong this year, noting that millennials are increasingly turning their attention towards coloured gemstones for engagement rings. While Jeffery Bergman of Thailand-based Primagems also sees a strengthening of the coloured stone market this year, he warned that the Covid-19 pandemic will have an ongoing impact on the trade, although hopefully to a lesser extent this year. “Supply issues will continue to be problematic. For example, rough traders from Africa have supplied cutting factories in Chanthaburi and Bangkok for decades, but travel restrictions eliminated 80 per cent to 90 per cent of this supply chain over the past two years. Consequently, cutting factories have reduced staff, with some closing,” Bergman explained. “If pre-Covid supply and demand were to return to Thailand’s gem market, an inevitable labour shortage will drive up prices and challenge delivery reliability.” This caution was reiterated by Michelou. “Because of Omicron, we are seeing long deliveries due to labour shortages at our cutting factories and even with our couriers. During Covid, some workers changed jobs so, while demand is up, we lack employees, and those who remain expect higher salaries.” She noted the couriers have also raised their rates, contributing to overall price increases. Despite these challenges, Michelou remains upbeat on business prospects this year. And while optimistic for 2022, Germany-based Constantin Wild commented, “This will be a challenging year due to the travel restrictions and trade show uncertainties, yet we expect business to be good because of a strong demand for luxury items.” The lapidarist cites morganite with strong pink tones as one of the emerging gems this year. Gold bracelet with over 30 carats of Paraiba tourmaline by Caroline C (Photo courtesy of Caroline Chartouni) Caroline C镶嵌了逾30克拉帕拉伊巴碧玺的金手链(照片由Caroline Chartouni提供)

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