MAR/APR 2022 ISSUE #432 US$15 Favoured coloured gems 最受欢迎的彩宝 Sustainable splendour: Loving pre-loved jewellery 可持续的辉煌：二手珠宝的热潮 China charts post-Covid course 中国对后疫情的市场展望
CONTENTS Issue #432 | MAR/APR 2022 8 MARKET INDICATORS 市场指标 8 Diamond jewellery demand up 29% in 2021 – AWDC, Bain 2021年钻石首饰需求增加29%—— 安特卫普世界钻石中心(AWDC)， 贝恩公司 26 PERSPECTIVE 精辟视野 26 Michael Youssoufian: A bejewelled history 辉煌历史 10 FOCUS 焦点 10 Coloured gem sector unearths vibrant opportunities in Covid-endemic world 彩色宝石业探讨疫情下的机遇 18 Spectrum of China's coloured gem market 绚丽的中国彩色宝石市场
On the Cover 封面 Atomique Collar Necklace with 71.48 carats of diamonds including an 18.57carat centre stone, Atomique Clip Earrings and Atomique Double Ring, from The Alchemist of Light High Jewellery Collection by De Beers Jewellers 戴比尔斯呈献的The Alchemist of Light高级珠宝系列：一条钻石总重71.48克拉的 Atomique领片项链，中间以18.57克拉白钻为主石、Atomique耳环和Atomique 指间戒 Digital version 电子版： jewellerynet.com/en-us/custom/publications 30 DESIGN 设计 30 Illuminating wonders from De Beers 戴比尔斯缔造的光彩奇迹 34 Vever: Reviving a legendary jewellery house 传奇珠宝店之继承与革新 56 Industry stakeholders shine at JWA and JWA Dubai 业界領袖於JWA及JWA Dubai頒獎礼上 大放异彩 46 MARKET INTELLIGENCE 市场情报 46 China’s jewellery market recaptures sparkle 中国珠宝市场重焕光彩 52 Sustainable splendour: Loving pre-loved jewellery 可持续的辉煌：二手珠宝的热潮 38 SPOTLIGHT 市场聚焦 38 Road to recovery: Innovation in Turkey’s jewellery industry 土耳其珠宝业以创新开拓复甦之路
Associate Publisher & Editor-in-Chief Olivia Quiniquini 副出版人及主编 程爱莉 EDITORIAL 编辑部 Assistant Editor Bernardette Sto. Domingo 副编辑 杜明高 Senior Researcher William Yick 高級資料搜集主任 易康耀 ADVERTISING 广告部 Assistant Director Christine Sinn 区域营业总监 冼蕙珠 Business Development Manager Ken Chan 業務拓展經理 陈赞健 MARKETING 市場推广部 Senior Marketing & Communications Manager Ronny Pang 高级市场及传讯经理 彭秋影 Senior Marketing & Communications Executive Grace Tam 高级市场及传讯主任 谭淑恩 Marketing & Communications Executive Angela Lau 市场及传讯主任 刘雅媛 PRODUCTION 制作部 Production Manager Jennifer So 制作部经理 苏丽娟 Senior Designer Eva Kam 高级设计师 甘铭灵 Senior Exhibitions Administrative Executive Natalie Chan 珠宝展览部高级行政主任 陈晓盈 ADVERTISING REPRESENTATIVES 广告代理 China 中国: 广州代表处胡淑晶 | Tel 电话: (86) 20 8666 0158 Email 电邮: [email protected] Germany 德国: Liz Dobelmann | Tel 电话: (49) 721 384 1881 Email 电邮: [email protected] Italy 意大利: Mauro Arati | Tel 电话: (39) 02048517853 Email 电邮: [email protected] Japan 日本: Nobuaki Nito | Tel 电话: (81) 3 52961020 Email 电邮: [email protected] Taiwan 台湾: Rita Hung | Tel 电话: (886) 2 2738 3898 Email 电邮: [email protected] Thailand 泰国: Anna Vichvech | Tel 电话: (66) 2 036 0500 Email 电邮: [email protected] US 美国: Bonnie Chan | Tel 电话: (1) 347 906 4693 Email 电邮: [email protected] President & CEO – Asia Margaret Ma Connolly 亚洲主席及行政总裁 马颖 Senior Vice President – Asia David Bondi 亚洲高级副总裁 庞大为 Director of Jewellery Fairs Celine Lau 珠宝展览部总监 刘小雯 Published by Informa Markets 出版 1701-1705, China Resources Building, 26 Harbour Road, Wanchai, Hong Kong 香港湾仔港湾道26号华润大厦1701-1705室 Email 电邮: [email protected] JewelleryNet.com Every care has been taken to ensure the accuracy of the information in JNA. However, the publication of such information is at the sole discretion of the publisher. The publisher and the editorial team shall not be held responsible or in any way held liable for any errors, omissions or inaccuracies in this publication, or for any consequences arising therefrom. The contents of this publication are protected by copyright and cannot be reproduced, photocopied, transmitted or posted in any form without the prior written consent of the publisher. 本公司已尽力确保《JNA亚洲珠宝》所刊登的内容正确无误。如因错漏而引致任何损失，本公司概不负责。本公司保留刊登有关资料的一切权利。版权所有，如未获得本公司事先之书面允许，不 得以任何方式翻印、仿制或转载本刊物任何部份之文字或图片。 Printed by Asia One Printing Limited,13/F, Asia One Tower, 8 Fung Yip Street, Chai Wan, Hong Kong. 印刷商: 宏亚印务有限公司香港柴湾丰业街8号宏亚大厦13楼
MARKET INDICATORS 8 | JNA Mar/Apr 2022 1亿 29% Increase in diamond jewellery demand in 2021, revealed the Global Diamond Industry 2021–22 prepared by the Antwerp World Diamond Centre and Bain & Co. According to the report, diamond jewellery sales rebounded as Covid restrictions eased and experience-spending opportunities remained low. Marketing and a resurgence of wedding demand also lifted sales. Coronavirus variants and new lockdowns dampened consumer optimism but were largely offset by vaccination rollouts in key diamond-consuming regions. Expected increase in silver jewellery demand in 2022, with India driving majority of growth, according to the Silver Institute. Citing improving consumer sentiment amid the spread of the Omicron variant, the institute said an expected easing of Covid restrictions and efforts by jewellery retailers to push silver to urban consumers will favour jewellery sales across India. Growth in jewellery sales in the US, meanwhile, is seen to continue, following a significant rebound in 2021. 2021年钻石首饰需求所录得的增幅。该数据来自安特卫普世界钻石中 心和贝恩策略顾问公司联合发布的《2021-2022全球钻石产业》报告。 随着新冠疫情防疫措施开始放宽，再加上与体验相关的消费模式仍然 低迷，钻石销量因而回升。增长亦同时受营销和婚礼需求复甦所带动。 虽然变种病毒和最新实施的封城措施为消费者的乐观情绪带来了打 击，主要钻石消费地区的疫苗接种计划成功收复了大部分失地。 世界白银协会估算2022年银制首饰需求的增长率；其 中大部分增幅将会来自印度。协会指出，纵使Omicron 变种病毒仍在扩散，消费者信心正在恢复，并预料印度 会放宽防疫限制措施，珠宝商亦会致力把银饰推销予 城市消费者，有利珠宝在该国的销情。美国珠宝销售继 2021年大幅反弹以后，升势预计将会持续。 11% US$4.3M 430万美元 Selling price of an exceptional 555.55-carat black diamond, named “The Enigma,” at a Sotheby’s auction. The diamond was purchased via cryptocurrency. A rare carbonado-type black diamond, The Enigma is the largest fancy black natural colour diamond in the world as of 2004 according to the Gemological Institute of America and Gübelin, and the largest cut diamond in the world as of 2006 as per the Guinness World Record book. 苏富比拍卖会上，一颗名为“谜”(The Enigma)的555.55 克拉黑钻的成交价。这颗黑钻以加密货币交易。根据美 国宝石研究院(GIA)与古柏林宝石鉴定所(Gübelin)的资 料，这颗稀有的“碳石”型黑色钻石于2004年被评为全 球最大的天然黑钻，并于2006年成为吉尼斯世界纪录 中所载最大的切割钻石。
市场指标 JNA Mar/Apr 2022 | 9 亿美元 93.83 carats克拉 Online Trade Updates 新闻快讯 Strong recovery in 2021 gold jewellery demand 2021年金饰需求殷切 Fancy colour prices up in 2021 2021年彩钻价格上升 De Beers veteran Stephen Lussier retires Stephen Lussier卸任戴比尔斯職务 Demand for gold jewellery rebounded to pre-pandemic levels in 2021 on the back of steady demand in key markets, the World Gold Council revealed. 世界黃金協會(WGC)透露，由於關鍵市 場需求穩定，金飾需求在2021年已回彈至疫情前水平。 Prices of fancy colour diamonds rose steadily in 2021 due to solid demand for luxury diamond jewellery, according to the Fancy Color Research Foundation (FCRF). 彩鑽研究基金會(FCRF)表示，由於市場對奢華鑽飾需求強勁，因此令彩鑽 價格在2021年穩步上揚。 Stephen Lussier is stepping down as executive vice president for Brands & Consumer Markets at De Beers Group on April 1. Stephen Lussier將於4月1日卸任戴比爾斯集團的品牌及消費市場執行副總裁一職。 Our digital platform provides additional content for an even more comprehensive industry perspective. Scan the QR code for the full story and more trade news. 我们的数字平台载有更多更全面的行业视角报道，请扫瞄二维码查看全文和更多行业信息。 Weight in carats of an exceptional cabochon-cut Colombian emerald that is the centre stone of the Hypnotic Emerald necklace – the latest addition to Bulgari’s Magnifica High Jewellery Collection. Bulgari reinvents its iconic symbol, the snake, to epitomise feminine seduction. The bejewelled snake gracefully cradles the emerald in its jaws in this masterpiece that required 1,800 hours to be completed. Its body features pavé-set diamonds as well as diamond baguettes and emerald cabochons. 这是宝格丽Magnifica高级珠宝系列的最新作品——Hypnotic Emerald项链中央的祖母绿重量。宝格丽重新演绎了品牌 的经典灵蛇标志，将女性魅惑风采发挥得淋漓尽致。整条项链一共花了1,800小时打造，镶满宝石的灵蛇优雅地将凸圆 形祖母绿主石轻托下颚之上，而蛇身则饰上密镶钻石、长方形钻石以及凸圆形祖母绿，互相辉映。 The Hypnotic Emerald necklace by Bulgari 宝格丽Hypnotic Emerald祖母绿项链 news.jewellerynet.com/en/jnanews
FOCUS 10 | JNA Mar/Apr 2022 A 4.81-carat purple sapphire ring accented by 0.89 carats of Paraiba-type tourmalines and 0.93 carats of diamonds set in platinum by Omi Privé Omi Privé的铂金戒指，上面镶有一颗4.81克拉紫色刚玉，以及0.89克拉的帕拉伊巴碧玺和0.93克拉钻石 彩色宝石业探讨疫情下的机遇 Coloured gem sector unearths vibrant opportunities Sales of coloured gemstones over the last few years have increased substantially, driven by emerging markets and an increasing awareness by consumers of the beauty and variety offered by gems of colour. While the last two years of pandemic have brought significant changes to the sector, the industry is moving forward with remarkable resilience and ingenuity. 过去几年，彩色宝石的销售额大幅攀升，原因在于新兴市场积极推动发展，以及消费者 越来越懂得欣赏彩宝多元的种类及缤纷的色彩，尽管行业在过去两年因为新冠疫情而 产生巨大的变化，但仍然凭着非凡韧性和独创性向前迈进。 | Cynthia Unninayar | IN COVID-ENDEMIC WORLD
焦点 JNA Mar/Apr 2022 | 11 Mozambique pink rubies and the fluorescent Mahenge spinels will be very popular, while teal and autumn colour sapphires will continue their rise, along with Umba sapphires from Tanzania. – Emmanuel Piat, CEO of Piat For its 2022 Colour of the Year, Pantone created a new shade – Very Peri, a blue hue with violet-red overtones. In explaining this move, the colour forecasting agency noted that Very Peri brings a novel perspective and vision of the trusted and beloved blue colour family as warranted in a world of unprecedented change. This applies as well to the coloured gemstone industry, which is exploring fresh offerings and notable business prospects in post-Covid markets. For starters, the Pantone pick reinforces demand for already popular blue stones while boosting awareness of lesser-known gems. A trendy addition to the fashion industry, Very Peri has been adopted too by jewellery designers, using gems such as purple sapphire, spinel and tanzanite, among others. “It is nice to see bright and beautiful colour palettes displayed and used in the gemstone industry,” said Niveet Nagpal, owner and designer of US-based Omi Privé. “We are incredibly excited to use Very Peri and its complementary colours in our upcoming designs.” Zoe Michelou, owner of Thailand-based Imperial Colors, has seen growing demand for purplish stones because of Pantone’s selection for 2022. “More enquiries are coming in for the ‘Very Peri’ colours, especially tanzanite and sapphire, plus other purplish gems, which are now popular in our main markets, namely the US and Europe,” she revealed. Favoured gems of colour The consensus is that the Big Three – emeralds, sapphires and rubies – will continue to be bestsellers in 2022. But many other beautiful gems are not far behind. Rising in prominence among this vast selection is Paraiba tourmaline. “Although we sell a lot of the Big Three, our most popular stone is Paraiba,” said Caroline Chartouni, owner of US brand Caroline C. “We get enquiries every week for this neon-blue gem.” Chartouni adds that aquamarine is becoming more sought after, as well as pink tourmaline, for her primary markets of the US and the Middle East. For Elke Berr of Switzerland-based Berr & Partners, sapphire is the top gem, followed by emerald and ruby. “Fine Burmese rubies are expensive and difficult to sell now because of Myanmar’s political situation. The big brands do not want them, so this leads to increased demand for Mozambique rubies,” she shared. A 2-carat lavender taaffeite from Tanzania (Photo 摄影: Ansar Ahmed, ©Jeffery Bergman) and a 15-carat morganite from Constantin Wild 来自坦桑尼亚的2克拉薰衣草色塔菲石 及Constantin Wild的15克拉摩根石
FOCUS 12 | JNA Mar/Apr 2022 Berr also feels that Paraiba tourmaline is highly favoured along with other blue stones, including cobalt spinel, tanzanite and indicolite, as well as amethyst, which are appreciated in her main markets, namely the US and Europe. “All the precious gems will be popular this year,” said Lewis Allen, CEO of Thailand-based Crown Color, which sells internationally. “We see a strong demand for pink sapphire.” He also notes a re-emergence of Mahenge spinels, with new production in Tanzania producing many new and large sizes. Colombian emeralds continue to be favourites. “From the second half of 2021, we have seen a 30 per cent increase in demand,” disclosed Guillermo Galvis, president of the Colombian Emerald Exporters Association. The biggest markets for emeralds are the US, China, the Middle East and India. New sources of sapphire and ruby have been found in Cauca, southwestern Colombia, and will hit markets later, he added. Gemolithos CEO Ioannis Alexandris, who closely follows the world’s major auctions, remarked, “It is no surprise that the Big Three dominate sales, along with coloured diamonds, and that prices have risen dramatically.” He likewise observes greater demand for soft colours, such as in kunzite and light amethyst, as well as pale yellow and pink sapphires. “Teal and peacock sapphires as well as polychrome parti sapphires are attracting more consumers,” offered New York-based Joe Menzie, president of gemstone company Joseph Menzie Inc, whose main market is the US. “Red and pink spinels, as lesser-priced substitutions for ruby, are also enjoying increased demand. The many colours of garnet and tourmaline will likewise see renewed interest.” Duncan McLauchlan, owner of UK-based McLauchlan Gems, agrees that hot designer gems are teal sapphires, Paraiba tourmaline and spinel, noting though that supply in any reasonable size and quality is limited. Gemstone dealer Evan Caplan believes that spinel – especially red, pink and blue ones – will become even more popular along with other gemstones that are in short supply such as Brazilian alexandrite, Padparadscha sapphire and Brazilian Paraiba tourmaline. Caplan has also achieved great success with fine cat’s eye chrysoberyls, star sapphires, trapiche emeralds and Russian demantoid garnets. The last few years have indeed seen a substantial rise in pastel Padparadscha sapphire, Paraiba tourmaline and, more recently, grey spinel and teal sapphire, according to Helen Molesworth, marketing director for Singaporebased gem platform Gembridge. She predicts these colour ranges – including polychrome gems with green-blue and purple-grey tones – will become more popular as people gain confidence and trust their own personal colour choices. “We also 1.42-carat Mahenge spinel set in an 18-karat gold ring with diamonds from Philip Zahm Designs Philip Zahm Designs的18K金 钻石戒指，以1.42克拉的马亨盖尖晶石为主石 Teal and peacock sapphires as well as polychrome parti sapphires are attracting more consumers. Red and pink spinels, as lesser-priced substitutions for ruby, are also enjoying increased demand. The many colours of garnet and tourmaline will likewise see renewed interest. – Joe Menzie, president of Joseph Menzie Inc
焦点 JNA Mar/Apr 2022 | 13 expect rising interest in the garnet and tourmaline families, with their wonderful rainbow of choices,” Molesworth added. Promising signs The Covid-19 pandemic has caused serious disruptions in global supply chains, which are still being felt to this day. Restrictions continue to hamper travel between some countries, with negative consequences particularly for Africa. Although artisanal and small-scale miners were able to work, there were few international buyers. Even when large-scale mines reopened after the lockdown, they faced difficulties due to travel restraints and logistical problems. Today, fewer travel restrictions and some re-linking of supply chains indicate signs of recovery. “My outlook is positive,” stated Gamini Zoysa, managing director of Sri Lanka-based Ceylon Gemological Services. “I was recently in the gem trading town of Beruwala and it was packed with traders and buyers, many preparing for the Tucson gem shows.” McLauchlan is optimistic, too. “I think 2022 will be an exciting time for the industry. Production is starting up again, restrictions are being lifted and everyone is keen to get rolling. We expect to see some important business done in the next few months,” he explained. Supply of fine-quality stones is still an issue as prices are very high, but demand for the best is outstripping supply tenfold, if not more, in his main markets of the UK and the US, he added. Philip Zahm, CEO of Philip Zahm Designs in the US, recalled, “When Covid started, everybody was terrified and expected the worst, but things quickly turned around and many jewellers had their best couple of years ever. During this past December and January, they were overwhelmed with demand for coloured stone jewellery and loose gemstones. I feel quite positive about the coloured stone market in 2022.” Michael Koh, owner and creative force behind Singapore-based fine jewellery brand Caratell, believes coloured gems will still be strong this year, noting that millennials are increasingly turning their attention towards coloured gemstones for engagement rings. While Jeffery Bergman of Thailand-based Primagems also sees a strengthening of the coloured stone market this year, he warned that the Covid-19 pandemic will have an ongoing impact on the trade, although hopefully to a lesser extent this year. “Supply issues will continue to be problematic. For example, rough traders from Africa have supplied cutting factories in Chanthaburi and Bangkok for decades, but travel restrictions eliminated 80 per cent to 90 per cent of this supply chain over the past two years. Consequently, cutting factories have reduced staff, with some closing,” Bergman explained. “If pre-Covid supply and demand were to return to Thailand’s gem market, an inevitable labour shortage will drive up prices and challenge delivery reliability.” This caution was reiterated by Michelou. “Because of Omicron, we are seeing long deliveries due to labour shortages at our cutting factories and even with our couriers. During Covid, some workers changed jobs so, while demand is up, we lack employees, and those who remain expect higher salaries.” She noted the couriers have also raised their rates, contributing to overall price increases. Despite these challenges, Michelou remains upbeat on business prospects this year. And while optimistic for 2022, Germany-based Constantin Wild commented, “This will be a challenging year due to the travel restrictions and trade show uncertainties, yet we expect business to be good because of a strong demand for luxury items.” The lapidarist cites morganite with strong pink tones as one of the emerging gems this year. Gold bracelet with over 30 carats of Paraiba tourmaline by Caroline C (Photo courtesy of Caroline Chartouni) Caroline C镶嵌了逾30克拉帕拉伊巴碧玺的金手链(照片由Caroline Chartouni提供)
FOCUS 14 | JNA Mar/Apr 2022 New shapes, new uses Colour is an important aspect of any gem purchase, but custom carvings are on the rise. In their new collection, Synergy & Symbiosis, jewellery artist Paula Crevoshay teamed up with noted gem carver Glenn Lehrer to produce a series of carved gems set in jewellery. “There is a growing movement towards modern art jewellery, exemplified by unusual cuts and colours,” said Martin Bell, vice president of US-based Crevoshay. Another company using interesting cuts is Thailandbased Genuine Gems & Jewellery. “When a new species of sapphire was discovered in Kenya a few years ago, we looked for different ways to bring out its natural beauty,” shared company owner Tanzim Khan, adding that these Gold Sheen™ sapphires continue to increase in popularity in the international market. “Aside from their uniqueness, they are mined in a socially responsible manner,” he continued. While good-quality gems are destined for jewellery or collectors, new uses are emerging for the rest. Thailand-based field gemmologist Vincent Pardieu has documented “gem painters” in Southeast Asia who use low-quality coloured gems to make beautiful works of art. “The benefits of gem painting go beyond the artists,” he said. “Miners are able to get a regular income from the low-quality stones, thus allowing them to continue searching for quality gems. Jobs are created all around, thus helping to eliminate poverty.” Question of ethics While a gem’s quality, colour and shape are certainly important, today’s consumers increasingly want to know if the gem was responsibly sourced. “Ethical supply chain” is more than a buzz phrase. It is an integral part of a gem’s story, telling of its journey from mine to market. Among companies that take ethical supply chains to heart is US-based Virtu Gems, which sources gems from Malawi, Kenya and Zambia. “Our goal is to make mining sustainable and improve conditions in mining communities,” explained co-founder Susan Wheeler. Since her biggest markets are jewellery designers in the US and Europe, Wheeler expects the most soughtafter gems to be trapiche emeralds, unique coloured sapphires, rutilated gems, cat’s eyes, star sapphires and star rubies. Artistic faceting is also a continuing trend in gems such as black tourmaline. A market exists as well for “healing stones with ethical provenance,” she added. France-based gemstone dealer Piat collaborates with Moyo Gems, an organisation working with female artisanal miners in Kenya and Tanzania to ensure better working conditions and fair prices. Company CEO Emmanuel Piat said, “Ethical sourcing, transparency and sustainability are what our main markets in the US, Europe and Asia are asking for.” In terms of favoured gems this year, Piat said, “Mozambique pink rubies and the fluorescent Mahenge spinels will be very popular, while teal and autumn colour sapphires will continue their rise, along with Umba sapphires from Tanzania.” In its March 2021 report on coloured gemstones, Future Market Insights tracked sales in over 20 countries. Based on its research, coloured gem sales are expected to grow at a healthy compound annual growth rate of over 5.7 per cent from 2021-2031, exhibiting a positive recovery from the period of muted growth in 2020. Current market indicators affirm this possibility as the industry moves forward. Selection of teal sapphires from 2 to 3 carats from Imperial Colors Imperial Colors的2至3克拉蓝绿色刚玉 Rectangularmulticolour tourmaline ringwith diamonds in 18-karat white and rose gold by Caratell Caratell18K白金和玫瑰金戒指，上面镶嵌长方形多色碧玺和钻石
焦点 JNA Mar/Apr 2022 | 15 彩通色彩(Pantone)为2022年的年度色彩特别创 作了全新色调——Very Peri，是种带紫红基调 的长春花蓝色。彩通指出，在空前变幻的世界 中，该色调为广受信赖和爱戴的蓝色家族注入了崭新的 视角和想像。随着彩色宝石业在后疫情时代积极地发掘 市场新机遇和多样化的需求，这种新色彩对行业发展也 别具 蓝意 色义 宝。 石本来已经大受欢迎，而彩通的新色更巩固 了相关的需求，同时亦令市场对鲜为人知的宝石加深认 识。Very Peri的出现，更成为时尚潮流的元素，不少珠宝 设计师都乐于采用紫色刚玉、尖晶石和坦桑石等宝石进 行设“ 计很 。高兴看到这些明亮又美丽的色彩广泛使用在宝 石行业之上。”美国Omi Privé的主理人兼设计师Niveet Nagpal说。“本公司在即将面世的设计中采用了Very Peri 及其互补色，我们都为此雀跃不已。” 泰国Imperial Colors的店主Zoe Michelou表示随着 彩通公布2022年度色彩后，看见紫色宝石的需求增长。 她透露：“我们收到了更多有关‘Very Peri’色系宝石的查 询，尤其是坦桑石、刚玉和其他紫色宝石。本公司的主要 市场，即美国和欧洲，对这类型的宝石反应甚佳。” 宝石喜好 三大宝石巨头——祖母绿、蓝宝石和红宝石，将于 2022年继续稳守畅销宝座，这点是业内普遍的共识。但 其他宝石的表现也相当不俗，当中帕拉伊巴碧玺的知 名度与日具增。美国品牌Caroline C的主理人Caroline Chartouni说：“虽然我们出售许多红、蓝宝石及祖母绿珠 宝，但帕拉伊巴才是最受欢迎的宝石。每个星期，我们都 收到不少有关这种霓虹蓝色宝石的查询。”她补充，在美 国和中东这两个主要市场，海蓝宝石和粉红碧玺的受欢 迎程度有增无减。 瑞士公司Berr & Partners的Elke Berr认为，蓝宝石是 首选的宝石品种，其次是祖母绿和红宝石。她分享道： “优质的缅甸红宝石价格高昂，而且现在鉴于该国局势 不稳而难以出售，令大品牌敬而远之。因此，市场对莫桑 比克红宝石的需求有所上升。”Berr表示，帕拉伊巴碧玺 与其他蓝色宝石备受推崇，包括钴蓝尖晶石、坦桑石和蓝 碧玺。紫水晶也深受美国和欧洲市场垂青。 泰国公司Crown Color的销售网络遍及全球，首席执 行官Lewis Allen说：“今年所有贵重宝石都会大受欢迎。 以我们所知，市场上对粉红色刚玉呈现强劲需求。”坦桑 尼亚的新厂房也会大量生产全新的大颗马亨盖尖晶石。 哥伦比亚祖母绿仍然风靡市场。“从2021年下半年开 始，我们见证需求飙升30%。”哥伦比亚祖母绿出口商协 会主席Guillermo Galvis透露。美国、中国、中东和印度是 祖母绿的最大市场。他补充，哥伦比亚西南部的考卡省刚 发现了新的蓝宝石和红宝石矿，生产后将推出市场。 Pendant featuring ethically sourced multicoloured Umba sapphires surrounding a tsavorite crystal by Isabelle Langlois, with stones from Piat (Photo courtesy of Piat) and a pair of demantoid garnets, with a total weight of 13 carats, from Evan Caplan Isabelle Langlois的沙弗莱石水晶吊坠，饰以多颗道德采购的多色乌姆巴刚玉，宝石来自Piat (照片鸣谢：Piat)及Evan Caplan的一对翠榴石，总重13克拉 Hexagonal Gold Sheen™ sapphire fromGenuine Gems & Jewellery Genuine Gems & Jewellery的Gold Sheen™六角形刚玉
FOCUS 16 | JNA Mar/Apr 2022 Gemolithos的首席执行官Ioannis Alexandris密切关 注全球各地的大型拍卖会：“三大宝石和彩色钻石主导销 售，而且价格大幅上涨，这点并不令人感到惊讶。”他表 示，市场对色彩柔和的宝石需求上升，如紫锂辉石、浅紫 水晶，以及淡黄色和粉红色刚玉。 纽约宝石公司Joseph Menzie Inc以美国为主要市 场，主席Joe Menzie指出：“蓝绿色和孔雀刚玉，还有多色 刚玉，所吸引的消费者日益增加。红色和粉红色尖晶石均 被视为价格相宜的红宝石替代品，需求不断上升。除此 以外，石榴石和碧玺拥有缤纷的色彩，也将重新引起市场 的兴 英趣 国。”McLauchlan Gems的东主Duncan McLauchlan 认为，蓝绿色刚玉、帕拉伊巴碧玺和尖晶石都是在设计领 域中广受追捧的宝石，但他同时指出，尺寸和质量合理的 货源 宝非 石常 经有 销限 商。 Evan Caplan认为，尖晶石——特别是红 色、粉色和蓝色的种类，受欢迎程度将节节上升，其他人 气旺盛的宝石还有巴西亚力山大石、帕帕拉恰刚玉和巴 西帕拉伊巴碧玺等供应量少的品种。据他所称，该公司的 优质金绿猫眼石、星光刚玉、达碧兹祖母绿和俄罗斯翠榴 石，销情也十分理想。 新加坡宝石平台Gemb r i dge的市场总监He l en Molesworth表示，在过去几年，市场对粉嫩色系的帕帕 拉恰刚玉、帕拉伊巴碧玺，以及最近崭露头角的灰色尖晶 石和蓝绿色刚玉热爱有加。Molesworth预测，随着人们 对个人的颜色选择更有自信，绿蓝色和紫灰色多色宝石 等的色系，将会大行其道。她补充：“我们还预计，色彩缤 纷的石榴石和碧玺家族也会更广受注目。” 乐观迹象 新冠疫情期间，全球供应链严重中断，影响仍然深远。 限制措施接连阻碍某些国家之间的交通往来，对非洲尤 其造成打击。虽然当地的手工和小规模矿工能够继续工 作，但国际买家却寥寥可数。即使大型矿场在解封后重新 运作，也会因为旅游限制和物流问题而面临挑战。 如今，随着旅游限制放宽和部分供应链重新连接，显 示行业已出现复甦迹象。斯里兰卡Ceylon Gemological Services的执行总监Gamini Zoysa表示：“我对前景态度 乐观。我最近到过宝石贸易小镇贝鲁瓦拉，那里挤满了贸 易商和买家，很多都为美国图森宝石展做好准备。” McLauchlan乐观表示：“2022年将会是行业重振旗鼓 的一年。生产活动已重启，限制逐步解除，每个人都渴望 重新投入工作。我们预计，接下来的几个月将会促成一些 重要的业务项目。”他补充，由于优质宝石价格高昂，所以 供应仍然是一个问题，但在该公司的英美主要市场，优质 宝石的需求甚至超出了供应量的十倍有多。 Philip Zahm Designs的首席执行官Philip Zahm回忆 道：“疫情开始时，所有人都感到惊惶失措，并做好了最坏 打算，但事情很快就有了转机，更为不少珠宝商创造了开 业以来成绩最好的几年。在过去的12月和1月，有关彩色 宝石首饰和裸石的需求更如巨浪般涌至。因此我对2022 年的彩色宝石市场感到非常乐观。” 新加坡高级珠宝品牌Caratel l的东主兼创意主脑 Michael Koh相信，今年彩色宝石将保持强劲势头，并指 出越来越多千禧世代消费者正考虑购买彩色宝石订婚 戒指 泰。 国Primagems的Jeffery Bergman认为，今年彩色 宝石市场将会越战越勇，但他强调疫情将继续影响行业 发展，尽管今年的影响应该会较轻微。他解释：“供应问题 将继续为行业带来挑战。例如几十年来，非洲的原石贸易 商一直为泰国庄他武里府和曼谷的切割工厂供货，但在 过去两年，旅游限制破坏了该供应链的运作，货量大幅削 Tanzanite and diamond ring in 18-karat gold by Elke Berr (Photo courtesy of Berr & Partners) Elke Berr 18K的金坦桑石和钻石戒指 (照片由Berr & Partners提供) Unheated 8.17-carat blue sapphire fromMadagascar from Gemolithos and 18-carat Padparadscha sapphire from Crown Color Gemolithos的马达加斯加无加热8.17克拉蓝宝石及Crown Color的18克拉帕帕拉恰刚玉
焦点 JNA Mar/Apr 2022 | 17 减了整整80%至90%；减少工厂数目变相裁减员工，还令 部分厂房关闭。如果泰国宝石市场的供求关系得以回复 至疫情之前，劳动力短缺是无可避免的事实，从而推高价 格并影响交付的可靠性。” Michelou对此表示赞同。“Omicron变种病毒的出现， 令我们缩减了切割工厂以至递送人员的数目，导致劳动 力短缺，因而需要延长交货期。在疫情期间，有些工人转 换了工作，所以在需求上升之际，我们同时缺乏员工；而 留下来的旧员工也期望拿到更高的薪水。”递送人员亦提 高了运费，令整体价格上涨。虽然如此，Michelou仍旧对 今年的前景保持乐观。 尽管对 2 0 2 2 年态度积极，但以德国为基地的 Constantin Wild指出：“鉴于旅游限制仍然实施，加上难 以确定贸易展会否如期举行，这将会是充满挑战的一年。 不过，由于市场对奢侈品需求强劲，因此我们预计业务将 会表现理想。”他认为，拥有鲜艳粉红色调的摩根石将会 是今年流行的宝石种类。 崭新形态和用途 颜色是购买宝石的重要考虑因素，而订制雕刻服 务也正在兴起。珠宝艺术家Paula Crevoshay与著名宝 石雕刻家Glenn Lehrer合作，推出全新系列Synergy & Symb i os i s，多款珠宝均镶嵌雕刻宝石。由她创办的 Crevoshay公司位于美国，副主席Martin Bell解释：“现代 艺术珠宝在业内已成为趋势，亮点在于非凡切割和色彩。” 泰国的Genuine Gems & Jewellery也透过有趣的切 割方式来展现宝石之美。东主Tanzim Khan分享他的看 法：“自从一种新的刚玉几年前在肯尼亚被发现后，我们 便寻找不同的方式来展现其自然美。”他补充，这些名为 Gold Sheen™的刚玉在国际间渐受青睐。“这些宝石除了 独一无二，也是以符合社会责任的方式开采。” 虽然顶尖宝石通常会制成珠宝或供收藏家品鉴，但 其他等级的宝石也出现了一些新用途。实地考察宝石学 家Vincent Pardieu以泰国为基地，并记录了东南亚“宝石 画家”的创作过程，他们以质量较低的彩色宝石为物料， 制作美轮美奂的艺术品。他说：“宝石画除了让艺术家受 惠，也造福其他范畴。矿工可以透过开采低质量宝石获得 固定收入，帮助他们继续寻找优质宝石。就业机会比比皆 是，也有助消除贫穷问题。” 关注道德议题 宝石的品质、颜色及形状固然重要，但现今的消费者 亦日渐希望知道宝石的来源是否符合责任标准。“道德供 应链”已成为宝石背后的故事里不可或缺的一部分，阐述 了从矿场到市场的完整历程。 美国的Virtu Gems于马拉维、肯尼亚和赞比亚采购宝 石，是其中一家用心建立道德供应链的公司。联合创始人 法国宝石经销商Piat亦与Moyo Gems建立伙伴关系， 该组织与肯尼亚和坦桑尼亚的女性手工矿工合作，以 改善工作条件和保障公平价格。首席执行官Emmanuel Piat说：“我们在美国、欧洲和亚洲的主要市场，都要求产 品达到道德采购、高透明度和可持续性的水平。” 他认为，莫桑比克的粉红色红宝石和荧光马亨格尖晶 石将会大受欢迎，而蓝绿色刚玉和秋季色系刚玉也将继 续走强，另外还有坦桑尼亚的乌姆巴刚玉。 市场研究公司Future Market Insights在2021年3月 的彩色宝石报告中，追踪了20多个国家的销售情况。该 公司预测，彩色宝石在2021至2031年的销售额将以超过 5.7%的复合年均增长率稳健上升，在市况低迷的2020年 后呈现积极复甦。随着行业迈步前进，现时的市场指标已 证明了这个可能性。 Susan Wheeler解释：“我们的目标是令采矿业可持续地 发展，并改善采矿社区的条件。” 欧美珠宝设计师是该公司最大的客户群，因此 Wheeler预计达碧兹祖母绿、色彩独特的刚玉、金红石宝 石、猫眼石、星光刚玉和星光红宝石的需求最高。艺术切 割也是黑色碧玺等宝石的持续趋势。她补充，来源合乎道 德标准的疗愈宝石也存在一定市场。 Among the unique and unusual stones from artisanal miners in Africa is this rutilated amethyst, which will find a home with a creative jewellery designer (Photo courtesy of Susan Wheeler/ Virtu Gems) 非洲手工采矿者在一众独特的宝石中，开拓出金红石紫 水晶，不久将被创意珠宝设计师收归旗下 (照片鸣谢：Susan Wheeler/ Virtu Gems) About the author 笔者简介 Cynthia Unninayar is a 25-year veteran writer and editor in the gem and jewellery industry. An observer of the trends at the world’s largest trade fairs, she also travels extensively to the major gemstone-producing countries where she treks deep into the earth to learn and write about the fascinating stories behind the gems that make up today’s fine jewellery. Cynthia Unninayar是拥有25年资历的宝石及珠宝行业资深作家与编辑。除了擅于在全球最大型贸易展览会上观察行业趋势外，她 亦曾游历多个主要宝石生产国，学习和撰写高级珠宝背后的动人故事。
FOCUS 18 | JNA Mar/Apr 2022 Ring with a 30.24-carat Colombian emerald, sold for US$2.55 million at the Yongle Spring 2021 auction (Picture courtesy of Yongle Auction) 镶嵌30.24克拉哥伦比亚祖母绿的戒指，在永乐2021年春季拍卖会上以255万美元成交(图片由永乐拍卖提供) 绚丽的中国彩色宝石市场 Spectrum of China’s coloured gem market Coloured gemstones are gaining traction in China, which has long been a gold, jade and pearl market. Apart from the Big Three of the coloured gem world – rubies, sapphires and emeralds, strong contenders for Chinese consumers’ affections include spinel and Paraiba tourmaline. 中国市场长期以来由黄金、玉石和珍珠主导。目前，彩色宝石越来越受欢迎； 除了彩色宝石界的三巨头 — 红宝石、蓝宝石和祖母绿外，中国消费者对尖晶石和 帕拉依巴碧玺也愈发喜爱。 | Julius Zheng 郑嵘 | China’s love affair with jade and pearl is firmly rooted in history. The ancient Chinese book Shang Shu (the Book of History) recorded the oldest written mention of natural pearls in 2206 BC. Chinese fondness for jade, meanwhile, dates back to the Neolithic Age some 7,000 years ago. Jadeite from Myanmar reached the imperial court of the Qing Dynasty in late 1700s. In the late 18th and early 19th century, carvers in China created jadeite masterpieces that are still unsurpassed in concept, design and technique. Coloured gemstones are relative newcomers in this setting but are increasingly making headway in China. Transparent, facettable varieties such as ruby, sapphire, emerald, spinel and Paraiba tourmaline are winning over gem enthusiasts, collectors and jewellery lovers in a market where translucent and opaque gems have historically thrived. Rubies, sapphires and emeralds first started to gain favour in 2013 and 2014. Momentum accelerated in 2015 and 2016 as awareness grew among jewellers and consumers, according to Lin
焦点 JNA Mar/Apr 2022 | 19 Xifeng, president of the Guangdong Colored Gemstone & Jewelry Chamber of Commerce. Demand grew steadily, with sharp spikes in interest in the last few years due to celebrity endorsements and patronage, expanded sales channels and reinforced consumer education. According to data from the Gems and Jewelry Trade Association of China, total jewellery retail sales in 2020 reached US$88.44 billion. Plain gold jewellery contributed the majority of sales at 55.7 per cent. Traditional Chinese favourites, namely jadeite, nephrite and pearl, accounted for 22.2 per cent of total jewellery retail sales, while other coloured gemstones brought in 4.9 per cent. Meanwhile, 13.1 per cent of the total jewellery retail sales value that year came from diamond jewellery. Evolving market preferences Jewellery designer Paloma Sanchez witnessed the China market’s gradual acceptance of coloured gemstones. A GIA graduate gemmologist who has been living in Beijing since 2006, she noted that while Chinese consumers generally have a strong affinity with stones and the energy these emanate, their taste in jewellery had often veered towards conservative, traditional choices such as jade. The arrival of Western and Hong Kong brands in the mainland market introduced locals to diamond jewellery, which then cornered purchases. According to Sanchez, interest in coloured stones has recently picked up, boding well for her brand of jewellery that features coloured gemstones and rare, unique gems. The mainland market has indeed diversified of late, said Wu Qiong, president of Besure Jewellery. “Chinese love the colour red, which is associated with joy and prosperity, as well as green, which is the colour of jadeite. In recent years, demand has strengthened for 1-carat rubies, 2-carat sapphires as well as emeralds of 3 and 4 carats,” she revealed. Chinese gem preferences 中国宝石市场的偏好 Submissions for laboratory testing are a barometer of gemstone demand in terms of varieties, colours, sizes, origins and other factors. The Asian Institute of Gemological Sciences (AIGS) has been testing and grading coloured gemstones for over four decades. In 2020, it opened a branch in Shanghai and then a second location in Shenzhen. This analysis is based on submissions to AIGS China Laboratory in 2021. 珠宝检测实验室的送检情况，是宝石需求的晴雨表， 可从中探视宝石类别、颜色、尺寸、产地和其他重要因 素。亚洲宝石学院(AIGS)进行彩色宝石检测和分级已有 40多年历史。2020年，AIGS在上海设立了中国珠宝检 测实验室，然后在深圳开设了第二个分支机构。本文的 分析基于2021年提交给AIGS中国珠宝检测实验室检测 的样品。 Ruby 红宝石 Rubies are the most popular coloured gemstone in the Chinese market, accounting for 42 per cent of total submissions to AIGS in 2021. 红宝石是中国市场上最受 欢迎的彩色宝石，占2021年AIGS收样总量的42%。 Origin 原产地: Some 40 per cent of submissions are tested for origin. Mozambique is the main source of rubies in China, accounting for 52 per cent of the total. The second largest source is Myanmar, at 25 per cent. Some of these are tested further to determine specific mining areas – 32 per cent are fromMogok. Madagascar is another important source, at 7 per cent. Other origins are Thailand, Tajikistan, Tanzania, Afghanistan, Pakistan and Vietnam, accounting for a combined total of 16 per cent. 约有40%的送检宝石按要求进行了原产地检测。莫 桑比克是中国销售的红宝石的主要产地，占总数的52%。 第二大产地是缅甸，占25%。其中一些被进一步检测，以确 定具体的矿区 — 例如，32%产自摩谷。马达加斯加是另一 个重要产地，占7%。其他原产地是泰国、塔吉克斯坦、坦桑 尼亚、阿富汗、巴基斯坦和越南，共占16%。 Colour 颜色: Pigeon blood is the preferred ruby colour for most Chinese buyers. 鸽血红是大多数中国买家的首 选红宝石颜色。 Treatment 处理: Around 76 per cent of all tested rubies are untreated. While heat treatment of rubies is internationally accepted, Chinese consumers still prefer unheated stones. 在所有检测的红宝石中，约有76%是未 经处理的。虽然红宝石的热处理在国际上被接受，但中国 的消费者仍然偏爱未经加热的宝石。 18-karat white gold ring by Paloma Sanchez with a 5.43-carat Colombian emerald and diamonds. Paloma Sanchez设计的18K白 金戒指，镶有5.43克拉的哥伦比亚祖母绿和钻石
FOCUS 20 | JNA Mar/Apr 2022 US$4.35M 435億美元 Total coloured gemstone jewellery retail sales in China in 2020, according to the 2020 China Jewellery Industry Development Report by the Foundation of the Gems and Jewelry Trade Association of China 2020年中国彩色宝石珠宝的零售总额， 资料来自中宝协基金《2020中国珠宝产业发展报告》 According to Wu, no-heat stones are preferred over their heated counterparts, especially for rubies. The market is however becoming more accepting of treated stones such as heated blue sapphires. Years of trade and consumer education are also paying off when it comes to emeralds. Customers would now consider purchasing treated emeralds but mostly prefer minor-oil stones. Still, no-oil emeralds remain the most sought after and command huge premiums. Interest in spinel is also on the rise, Wu remarked. Particularly favoured are fine coloured spinel from Africa, notably red and pink stones of 2 carats and up, and spinel from Myanmar, especially those over 1 carat. Lok Chen, vice president of Cai Bao Cheng, attests to the strong run high-quality spinels and Jedi spinels are currently enjoying in the mainland market. Likewise doing well are rubies, emeralds and sapphires that dominate the high-end market. Meanwhile, tourmaline, aquamarine and morganite have developed a strong following in the midrange category, he added. Sanchez agrees that more coloured gemstones are catching the fancy of Chinese consumers. “Tourmaline is seen as a lucky stone for health and prosperity. Sapphire, tanzanite and ruby all reached Chinese shores, had their ups and downs but are here to stay. Phenomenal gemstones such as cat's eye chrysoberyl, star sapphire and star ruby, moonstone and opal are starting to hit the market now,” she revealed. Origin premiums As in other parts of the world, provenance plays an important role in determining gemstone demand and pricing in China, with stones from preferred origins generally fetching higher prices. Rubies, sapphires and spinel from Myanmar are held in high regard, while emeralds from Colombia are looked upon favorably. Gemstones from sources new to the Chinese market are making waves, too. Lin of Guangdong Colored Gemstone & Jewelry Chamber of Commerce cites emeralds from Swat Valley, Pakistan as promising due to their vibrant colour and competitive prices. Winza Jewelry Founder Aqeel Chaudhry, a Pakistani jeweller and miner who has been living in China for more than a decade, confirms that Swat emeralds are valued for their exceptional transparency, vibrant colour and natural hexagonal crystal formations. His company started promoting Swat Valley emeralds in the Chinese market in 2014 and has participated in more than 100 jewellery shows in Tier 1 and Tier 2 cities, accumulating a wealth of data and experience on consumer demographics and preferences. “When it comes to emeralds, the first thing that comes to mind is Colombian emeralds. Swat Valley emeralds from Pakistan have actually been around for over 2,500 years. They might have been well known to ancient Romans but are new to the Chinese gem industry. In recent years, they have been growing in popularity,” said Chaudhry. Assessment and supply As coloured gemstones are relatively new to the Chinese market, professional buyers and end-consumers rely heavily on colour trade terms and grading reports in assessing goods. Popular colour trade terms doubled as brand names and effectively gained wide market acceptance in China. Retail stores, e-commerce sites and auctions all favour grading reports featuring these colour trade terms. The Chinese market still relies on grading reports to provide some level of quality assurance especially when it comes to colour codes and treatment levels, said Lin. Chen of Cai Bao Cheng added that most consumers still pay more attention to the colour trade terms in grading reports than the appearance of the actual stone when evaluating prices. The supply of coloured gemstones has however been tight in the last two years due to the Covid-19 pandemic, which has affected the schedule of tenders, among others. Inventory levels have fallen significantly for traders in China, according to Lin. Travel restrictions hampered buyers’ access to foreign markets and trade shows, This 39.28-carat royal blue sapphire ring sold for US$2.12 million at the Yongle Spring 2021 auction (Picture courtesy of Yongle Auction) 39.28克拉皇家蓝蓝宝石戒指，在永乐2021年春季拍卖会上 以212万美元成交(图片由永乐拍卖提供)
焦点 JNA Mar/Apr 2022 | 21 forcing them to rely on the inventory of local dealers. Established working relationships also helped maintain supply as Chinese buyers transacted with trusted overseas partners based on digital images of the goods they wanted to procure. Supply shortages have inevitably led to price increases. Wu of Besure Jewellery revealed that prices of good-quality rubies and emeralds have gone up at least 50 per cent annually in the last two years due to supply instabilities amid stable demand. Sanchez noted that China has evolved into a more educated and better-informed market with economically independent women as well as younger consumers seeking to express their own style. “Chinese consumers are mostly self-confident individuals whose preferences are different from older generations. They are not motivated by the investment value of their purchases and get no satisfaction from proving they can afford luxury items. They seek uniqueness and want to acquire items that represent them: A unique piece as unique as each one of us is. Therein lies the growing appeal of coloured gemstone jewellery,” she said. In addition, coloured gems offer bright sparks of hope and joy in a world weary of pandemic restrictions. “This is the best opportunity for coloured gemstone jewellery. In my experience, patience and, above all, education are the key,” Sanchez concluded. Weight 重量: Rubies of 1 carat to 2.99 carats are the most popular in the Chinese market, accounting for 67 per cent of submissions. Stones under 1 carat comprised 11 per cent of submissions; 1 carat to 1.99 carats, 55 per cent; 2 carats to 2.99 carats, 12 per cent; over 3 carats, 6 per cent; and gemstone-studded jewellery, 16 per cent. 1克拉至2.99克拉的红宝石在中国市场上最受欢迎，占送 检样品的67%。1克拉以下的宝石占送检样品的11%；1至 1.99克拉占55%；2至2.99克拉占12%；3克拉以上占6%；镶 嵌珠宝占16%。 Sapphire 蓝宝石 Sapphire is the second most popular coloured gemstone in China, based on AIGS records. Blue sapphires accounted for 70 per cent of submissions while Padparadscha sapphires made up 15 per cent. Other colours constituted 14 per cent. 根据AIGS的纪录，蓝宝石 是中国第二大最受欢迎的彩色宝石。蓝色蓝宝石占送检样 品的70%，帕帕拉恰蓝宝石刚玉占15%。其他颜色占14%。 Origin 原产地: Some 45 per cent of submissions are tested for origin. The most important sources are Sri Lanka (45 per cent), Myanmar (22 per cent) and Madagascar (19 per cent). The rest are Mozambique, Thailand, Pakistan, Afghanistan, Brazil and Kashmir (14 per cent combined). 约有45%的送检宝石按要求进行了 原产地检测。最重要的产地是斯里兰卡(45%)、缅甸(22%) 和马达加斯加(19%)。其余的是莫桑比克、泰国、巴基斯坦、 阿富汗、巴西和克什米尔(合计14%)。 Colour 颜色: According to AIGS, 74 per cent of all submitted blue sapphires were royal blue while 13 per cent were cornflower blue. These two colour designations are highly sought after in the Chinese market. 根据AIGS 的资料，在所有提交的蓝色蓝宝石中，74%是皇家蓝，13% 是矢车菊蓝。这两种颜色术语在中国市场上深受欢迎。 Treatment 处理: 53 per cent of the sapphires tested by AIGS China Laboratory in 2021 were unheated while 47 per cent were heated, indicating that heat treatment was more acceptable to Chinese buyers for sapphires than for rubies. Some dealers requested further testing of colour stability and diffusion treatment. Only seven stones were found to be synthetic sapphires in 2021. 在2 0 2 1年A I GS中国珠宝检测实验室检测的蓝宝石 中，53%是未经过加热处理的，47%是经过加热的，表明中 国买家对蓝宝石的热处理比对红宝石更容易接受。一些经 销商要求进一步检测颜色稳定性和扩散处理。2021年，只 有7颗被检测出是合成蓝宝石。 Weight 重量: Sapphires from 1 carat to 4.99 carats constituted 67 per cent of submissions. This is notably bigger than the preferred ruby size. Of the sapphires submitted for testing, 5 per cent were under 1 carat, 35 per cent from 1 carat to 1.99 carats, 18 per cent from 2 carats to 2.99 carats, 14 per cent from 3 carats to 4.99 The Chinese market still relies on grading reports to provide some level of quality assurance especially when it comes to colour codes and treatment levels. – Lin Xifeng, president of Guangdong Colored Gemstone & Jewelry Chamber of Commerce Sapphire 蓝宝石
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