JNA July/August 2022 | 39 设计 Branding and transition Oscar Heyman, which celebrates its 110th anniversary this year, remains a force to reckon with in the industry. Distinguished the world over for its illustrious history and indispensable contribution to American jewellery manufacturing, the company is witness to the everchanging landscape of the jewellery trade. Third-generation jeweller and co-president of the company Tom Heyman explained that while the world has changed tremendously since 1912, the company’s philosophy to produce top-quality jewellery using the finest gemstones remains constant. A significant transformation however was a decision in the 1970s to start building the Oscar Heyman brand. “Today our brand on its own is very sought after. In stores across the US, we advertise and sell pieces as Oscar Heyman. That is probably one of the biggest changes in our company,” explained Tom. With increased mobility post-World War II, the need to establish brand names particularly in the luxury jewellery business has become more pronounced. Trusted and well-known brands lend credibility and patent elegance to retail stores, added the company official. Oscar Heyman sells to around 100 stores in the US and a couple of shops in England. It also works with a US-based dealer buying for a wholesaler in Shanghai, which means it has some presence in the Chinese market. Moving forward, the jeweller is aiming to expand its foothold in China, which it described as the next “significant jewellery market.” In terms of design preferences, Tom said American buyers are partial to refined and subdued styles as opposed to high-end Asian clients who prefer statement pieces that are adorned with natural, unheated stones with a pedigree. Oscar Heyman is renowned for its exquisite use of high-quality coloured gemstones, which are the stars of its inimitable jewellery designs. It uses a great deal of emeralds, sapphires and rubies but it also works with Paraiba tourmalines, opals, alexandrites, chrysoberyl cat’s-eyes, star sapphires and rubies, aquamarines and pastel-coloured fancy sapphires. The pieces come in 18-karat yellow gold or platinum. “Our hero stone might be chrysoberyl cat’s-eye. We love it and we always produce a big collection of it,” explained Tom. “But we sell more blue sapphires than any other coloured gemstone.” 'Pansy' pin embellished with fancy sapphires; 'Pansy' brooch in 18-karat gold and platinum with peridots, amethysts, tsavorites and diamonds; ‘Ballerina’ ring featuring a sapphire cabochon centre gem in platinum with diamonds resting on the ruffles of a ballerina’s skirt 彩色刚玉三色堇胸针；18K金和铂金三色堇胸针，镶嵌橄榄石、紫水 晶、沙弗莱石和钻石；“芭蕾舞者”铂金戒指的主石为一颗凸圆形蓝宝 石，裙摆部分镶嵌钻石
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