JULY/AUGUST 2022 ISSUE #434 US$15 Gemstones: Strategies from mine to market 宝石矿商的业务策略 The resilience of jewellery retail 珠宝零售业展现无比韧性 Thriving online channels in China 珠宝业线上渠道在中国发展兴盛
8 MARKET INDICATORS 市场指标 8 Pandora allots US$100M for new Vietnam facility 潘朵拉投资1亿美元在越南建设新工厂 29 INNOVATION 创新科技 29 Sarine explores new frontiers in diamond technology 尚灵积极探索钻石科技新前沿 CONTENTS Issue #434 | JULY/AUGUST 2022 14 SPECIAL FEATURES 专题报道 14 Gemstones: Strategies from mine to market 宝石矿商的业务策略 22 The resilience of jewellery retail 珠宝零售业展现无比韧性
On the Cover 封面 Flowers and Leaves necklace, Floral earrings and Alisa ring from Tiffany & Co by Jean Schlumberger® 蒂芙尼Jean Schlumberger®系列的Flowers and Leaves项链、Floral耳环 和Alisa戒指 30 DESIGN 设计 30 Flowers and fancy: A glimpse into Tiffany’s Blue Book 2022 花团锦簇：蒂芙尼2022年 BLUE BOOK系列美丽绽放 34 A fusion of culture and modernity 传统文化与现代感完美融合 38 Oscar Heyman: Jeweller to the jewellers 珠宝业界翘楚 54 European jewellers bank on proven artistry for growth 欧洲珠宝商匠心创未来 44 MARKET INTELLIGENCE 市场情报 44 China’s fashion jewellery business thrives online 时尚首饰网络营销优化和多元策略 50 JGW Singapore attracts world-class suppliers JGW新加坡展吸引全球知名展商参与
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8 | JNA July/August 2022 MARKET INDICATORS Pandora is investing US$100 million to build a new facility in Vietnam, its third manufacturing site and the first outside Thailand. The jewellery crafting facility in the Vietnam Singapore Industrial Park 3 (VSIP) in Binh Duong province will be fully powered by renewable energy and built according to the LEED Gold standard. It will employ over 6,000 craftspeople and have an annual capacity of 60 million pieces of jewellery. Price achieved for a 101.41-carat D-colour, internally flawless, pear-shaped diamond at Sotheby’s New York in June. This was among the highest prices ever fetched for a D-colour, flawless or internally flawless diamond over 100 carats at auction. Previously called the ‘Juno Diamond,’ it was renamed the ‘Claire G Diamond’ by the buyer in loving dedication to his wife. The stone led the US$52 million Magnificent Jewels auction, bringing Sotheby’s worldwide jewellery sales to date to over US$230 million, up 14 per cent year on year. Ethereal Green Diamond has produced the 30.18-carat 'Pride of India,' the world’s largest polished lab-grown diamond as of press time. Grown using the Chemical Vapor Deposition (CVD) process, the emerald-cut stone was certified by the International Gemological Institute as an H-colour lab-grown diamond with a VS2 clarity grade. 潘朵拉(Pandora)正在越南投资1亿美元建造一家新工厂，这是该公司的 第三个生产基地，也是首个在泰国以外建立的厂房。这个位于越南平阳 省的越南新加坡工业园3期(VSIP)的珠宝加工厂，将会全面以可再生能源 供电，并按照美国绿色建筑委员会设立的领先能源与环境设计LEED金级 认证系统建造。工厂建成及投产后，将雇用超过6,000名工匠，可年产多达 6,000万件珠宝。 在6月，一颗重101.41克拉的D色内部无瑕梨形钻石，于美国纽约苏富比拍卖 会上的成交价。这是100克拉以上的D色、无瑕或内部无瑕钻石，在拍卖史上录 得最高的成交价格之一。这颗以往被称为"女神"的钻石，如今被买家重新命名 为"Claire G钻石"，以表达其对妻子的爱意。这颗宝石，在总成交额高达5,200万 美元的“瑰丽珠宝”拍卖会中荣登主角位置，也带动苏富比的全球珠宝销售额超 过2.3亿美元，同比增长14%。 Ethereal Green Diamond生成了一颗30.18克拉的"Pride of India"(印 度的骄傲)，这是截至发稿时，全球最大的抛光实验室培育钻石。这颗 祖母绿切割的钻石，采用化学气相沉积(CVD)技术培育，经国际宝石 学院(IGI)认证为H色实验室培育钻石，钻石净度为VS2。 US$100M 1亿美元 US$13M 1,300万美元 30.18 carats克拉 Jewellery by Pandora 潘朵拉的珠宝 The 30.18-carat 'Pride of India' lab-grown diamond 30.18 克拉的 "印度的骄傲" 实验室培育钻石
JNA July/August 2022 | 9 市场指标 Bulgari’s 'Tribute to Paris' necklace features a 35.53-carat oval Colombian emerald surrounded by exquisite inlays of emeralds and diamonds evoking the slender silhouette of the Eiffel Tower. The piece is among the over 30 emerald creations in the brand’s new high jewellery collection, Bulgari Eden, The Garden of Wonders. 宝格丽的Tribute to Paris项链镶嵌了一颗35.53克 拉的椭圆形哥伦比亚祖母绿，四周饰以精美的祖 母绿和钻石，让人联想到艾菲尔铁塔的纤细轮廓。 这件作品是宝格丽旗下全新高级珠宝系列——"奇 境伊甸园"(Eden, The Garden of Wonders)中的30 多件祖母绿作品之一。 35.53 carats克拉 Online Trade Updates 新闻快讯 Leadership news at ICA, WDC 国际有色宝石协会、世界钻石协会之人事任命消息 GIA to issue digital-only reports by 2025 GIA计划在2025年前推出全数字报告 CTF reports strong growth in FY2022 周大福于2022财年录得强劲增长 Douglas K. Hucker is the new CEO of the International Colored Gemstone Association (ICA). He replaces Gary Roskin who held the position for seven years. Hucker was CEO of the American Gem Trade Association (AGTA) for two decades. Meanwhile, the World Diamond Council (WDC) has extended the terms of President Edward Asscher, Vice President Feriel Zerouki and Treasurer Ronnie VanderLinden through to 2023. 曾担任美国宝石业商会(AGTA)首席执行官达20年之 久的Douglas K. Hucker，被任命为国际有色宝石协会(ICA)的首席执行官，接替担任了该职位七年的Gary Roskin。与此同 时，世界钻石协会(WDC)决定延长总裁Edward Asscher、副总裁Feriel Zerouki和财务主管Ronnie VanderLinden的任期至 2023年。 The Gemological Institute of America is converting all GIA paper reports to digital formats by 2025 in a bid to further strengthen consumer protection. The shift will start in January 2023 with the digital launch of a “more secure and convenient” GIA Diamond Dossier®, which is powered by a fully reimagined GIA App. 美国宝石研究院 (GIA) 将于2025年之前将所有GIA纸本报告转换为数字格式，进一步巩固对消费者的保障。这项转型将于2023年1月起 进行，届时将推出“更安全、更方便”的GIA钻石鉴定精简版证书(GIA Diamond Dossier ®)，并由重新设计的GIA应用程 序驱动。 Chow Tai Fook Jewellery Group Ltd said a positive momentum in the key markets of China, Hong Kong and Macau drove solid growth in its fiscal year 2022. 周大福珠宝集团有限公司表示，中国内地、香港和澳门地区在2022财政年度形成一股 正面的推动力，促进业务强势增长。 Our digital platform provides additional content for an even more comprehensive industry perspective. Scan the QR code for the full story and more trade news. 我们的数字平台载有更多更全面的行业视角报道，请扫瞄二维码查看全文和更多行业信息。 news.jewellerynet.com/en/jnanews 'Tribute to Paris' necklace by Bulgari 宝格丽的Tribute to Paris项链
10 | JNA July/August 2022 ADVERTORIAL Platinum’s strengths as a precious metal and the emotional connections it builds with consumers make it an optimal choice for differentiation within the fine jewellery industry, said the Platinum Guild International (PGI). According to PGI’s annual Platinum Jewellery Business Review (PJBR), platinum’s unique qualities continue to support consumer demand and further drive margins for the industry, particularly through branded collections that appeal to affluent customers. “PGI is devoted to ensuring that platinum plays a distinctive role within the jewellery industry. To achieve this goal, PGI has been working with partners in integrating platinum into branding strategies to win customers’ hearts. Building brands and stories around branded collections are instrumental to increasing consumers’ willingness to make a purchase. Retailers, manufacturers and designers are increasingly leveraging the unique qualities of platinum to drive their business," said Huw Daniel, CEO of PGI. Through its unique properties and storied history, platinum is well placed today to drive margin growth in the upper-market segment, which is projected to grow much faster than the total market. The PJBR noted that jewellery brands from luxury houses and market-leading retail chains recognised the distinctive qualities of platinum – from its strength and its naturally white colour to its representation of significant meanings and emotions – as a central part of their offering and jewellery-making culture. Iconic brands appreciated platinum’s versatility and suitability for the most intricate and finest designs. In 2021, branded collections proved pivotal in generating value and fostering sustainable business development in the post-lockdown eras of platinum’s key markets. Pt Moment® 鉑金時刻®系列產品 铂金以创造价值为本，推动可持续的新业态 Platinum as a value generator in driving sustainable business Platinum’s differentiating qualities and potential for higher margins make it central to jewellery branding strategies amid disruptions. 铂金拥有与众不同的特质和高利润潜力，在各种挑战下依然成为珠宝品牌策略的核心。
JNA July/August 2022 | 11 软文 China In 2020, platinum led the Chinese jewellery market’s post-Covid recovery over gold, but gold caught up in 2021, taking significant market share from other categories. Platinum jewellery fabrication fell by 23 per cent year on year. Sales by PGI’s partners, which account for over a third of total platinum retail sales in China, decreased by 9 per cent year on year. The decline was mitigated by multipronged strategies like highlighting the value of branded collections created through innovative technologies in compelling designs. In 2021, the quality and quantity of branded platinum collections expanded across categories, from bridal jewellery and gifts to unisex pieces, creating a ripple effect among retailers. To further tap the Gen Z market, PGI collaborated with up-and-coming fashion designers on exclusive platinum jewellery collections in new retail channels, including high-end multi-label stores that showcase PGI’s strategic focus on this growing affluent segment as a target consumer base. This year, despite weaker consumer sentiment amid continued pandemic-related disruptions, platinum jewellery will continue to strive for profitability and differentiation in this crowded market. Japan Total jewellery retail sales in Japan recovered by 17.4 per cent year on year in 2021. Platinum was the best-performing white precious metal for jewellery, with retail sales reaching 568,000 ounces, an 11.6 per cent year-on-year increase and up 0.4 per cent against 2019. Growth stemmed mainly from strong sales of asset-type and bridal jewellery, along with a continued shift towards a preference for higher-purity metals. Branded collections and consumer-segmented programmes steered by PGI bolstered the strong recovery of Japan’s platinum jewellery industry. PGI’s Platinum Woman programme introduced the metal to more younger women. Available online and in-store from four of Japan's leading jewellery brands, this branded collection features a new generation of accessibly priced platinum jewellery pieces endorsed by a celebrity brand ambassador. In 2021, the programme saw sales value increase six times, with more partners signing up and over 60 new designs launched. Platinum jewellery retail sales in 2022 are likely to enjoy a modest increase, as consumers become more comfortable visiting jewellery stores again after receiving booster shots. PGI is also committed to further developing its branded collections and other co-op programmes that further motivate Japanese retail industry leaders to commit to platinum. India India’s overall jewellery business bounced back in Q3 after the second wave of Covid-19 wiped out a key wedding season in Q2, with momentum continuing into the last quarter. The fourth quarter witnessed significant growth with a strong wedding season and a series of festivals that traditionally encourage jewellery buying. Platinum was the fastest-growing category for PGI’s strategic partners in 2021, up by 30 per cent year on year. The development of branded collections such as Platinum Days of Love, Evara and Men of Platinum has enabled platinum-branded portfolios to address the unmet needs of younger consumers in India by fuelling their aspirations. In 2022, PGI’s strategic partners are expected to maintain the strong growth momentum and see their platinum business returning to pre-pandemic levels. US The US reported outstanding retail results in 2021, with jewellery as the shining star. Within the industry, platinum jewellery had an even stronger year, delivering 15 per cent year-on-year growth in retail sales. PGI’s strategic partners reported platinum unit sales growth ranging from 28 per cent to 42 per cent, surpassing prepandemic sales. Branded collections supported the sustainable growth of the platinum jewellery market. Le Vian used platinum in its main collections, growing year-on-year dollar sales by 95 per cent and increasing SKUs at Jared’s, Macy’s and hundreds of independent retailers. Platinum Born, a platinum-only brand, expanded distribution into Neiman Marcus, while adding new products to its line. The outlook for jewellery sales in the US remains positive in 2022, with PGI and its retailers anticipating a modest but continuing level of platinum sales growth. By integrating a resonating branding strategy and applying innovative designs and technologies in product offerings on top of its inherent value, platinum provides a unique combination of rational and emotional business drivers, and presents the jewellery industry with a truly irresistible business opportunity to unlock its full potential. PlatinumDays of Love 系列产品
12 | JNA July/August 2022 ADVERTORIAL 消费环境企稳后，消费者得以再次自如地前往珠宝商 店，因此预计2022年铂金首饰零售额可能会实现温和增 长。协会还致力开发品牌化系列铂金首饰和推动其他合 作项目，进一步鼓励日本零售业的领导者着眼铂金首饰。 印度 第二波疫情导致印度错失了第二季度的婚礼旺季后， 该国的珠宝业在第三季迎来业务反弹，势头持续到最后 一个季度。婚礼季的强劲需求和多个传统上鼓励购买珠 宝的节日，令第四季度呈现显著增长。铂金首饰成为国际 铂金协会(PGI®)战略合作伙伴2021年增长最快的品类， 实现销售同比增长30%。 Platinum Days of Love、Evara和Men of Platinum 等品牌化首饰系列产品的推出有助于其满足印度年轻消 费者的未尽需求，实现他们的心愿。 在2022年，协会的战略合作伙伴有望保持强劲的增 长势头，令铂金业务恢复至疫情前的水平。 美国 美国2021年的零售成绩斐然，当中珠宝可说是最亮 眼的商品类别。珠宝业内，铂金首饰的表现更加超卓，零 售额同比增幅为15%。协会的战略合作伙伴称，铂金产品 的销售量涨幅介于28%至42%之间，超越疫情前的水平。 品牌化系列首饰为铂金首饰市场的可持续增长提供 了支持。美国珠宝商Le Vian在主要系列中使用铂金，销 售额同比跃升95%，并增加了Jared's、Macy's和数百家 独立零售商的库存量。另一铂金品牌Platinum Born将 分销网络扩大至奢侈百货集团Neiman Marcus，亦在产 品线中增添了新品。 2022年美国珠宝销售前景依然乐观。协会及其零售 商预计，铂金首饰销量将实现持续稳健的增长。 铂金在其内在价值的基础上，整合能引起消费者共鸣 的品牌战略，并在产品系列中融入创新设计与技术，提供 了理性和感性商业驱动力的独特组合，给予珠宝首饰行 业不可抗拒的商机，以释放其全部潜力。 国际铂金协会(PGI®)表示，铂金以其卓越的金属属性及 与消费者之间的情感关联，成为高级珠宝行业最理想的 差异 国化 际选 铂择 金。 协会(PGI®)的《铂金首饰年度商业评论》指 出，铂金的独特性持续满足消费者的需求，并且进一步提 升行业利润，特别是以富裕客户为目标的品牌系列。 国际铂金协会(PGI®)全球首席执行官唐昊诚表示： “协会致力确保铂金在珠宝行业发挥其独特作用。为实 现这一目标，我们一直携手各方伙伴践行铂金首饰系列 的品牌化战略，借此赢得消费者青睐。可以发现，围绕品 牌化首饰系列建立品牌形象和品牌故事对提高消费者的 购买意愿有积极影响。因此，越来越多的零售商、制造商 和设计师也凭借这一点持续推动其业务发展。” 铂金已凭借其特有属性和丰厚底蕴占据推动高端市 场利润增长的一席之地，预计品牌系列高端市场增速将 远超整个市场。据2022年《铂金首饰年度商业评论》所 述，从奢侈品公司到引领市场的零售龙头企业，各大珠宝 品牌均视铂金与众不同的特质(如坚韧、色泽纯白及其所 代表的重要意义和情感)为其产品和珠宝制作文化的核 心部分。此外，知名品牌也意识到铂金巨大的可塑性，使 其能够承载极为复杂精细的设计。品牌化战略的盛行和 品牌化首饰系列的蓬勃发展是后疫情时代价值创造和可 持续业务发展的宝贵策略，并充分体现在2021年铂金市 场的主要表现之中。 中国 2020年，铂金曾经一度超越黄金，引领中国珠宝首饰 市场在后疫情时期创造复甦势头，但黄金在2021年迎头 赶上，从其他首饰类别中夺回大量市场份额。与一年前相 比，铂金首饰加工量下跌了23%。 协会的合作伙伴占中国铂金零售总额三成以上。受惠 于多管齐下的行业策略，例如以创新技术和精湛设计展 现品牌首饰系列的价值，这些伙伴的销量同比仅下降9%， 降幅明显较小。2021年，多个类别针对不同消费群体的 品牌化铂金首饰系列的质量和数量均呈现持续增长，包 括婚庆首饰、礼赠首饰，在零售商之间带动涟漪效应。 为了进一步开拓Z世代市场，协会与崭露头角的时装 设计师合作，通过高端精品集合店等新兴零售渠道推出 专属铂金首饰系列，从而印证了协会的策略重点——以 这些日益增长的富裕市场为目标消费者群。 今年，尽管与疫情相关的持续干扰令消费者信心减 弱，但是铂金首饰将继续在这个竞争激烈的市场中争取 盈利和突出的表现。 日本 日本的2021年首饰零售总量同比恢复17.4%。铂金 是珠宝首饰类别中表现最好的白色贵金属，零售量达到 56.8万盎司，同比增长11.6%，较2019年增长0.4%。这点 可归功于资产类和婚庆首饰销售强劲，加上越来越多消 费者喜爱高纯度金属。 在由国际铂金协会(PGI®)主导的消费者细分项目和 品牌化首饰系列产品的联合助推下，日本铂金首饰行业 强势复苏。以“Platinum Woman”营销策略为例，该项目 旨在吸引更多年轻女性关注铂金首饰。该品牌化系列首 饰由日本四大珠宝品牌以线上线下联动模式进行销售， 价格亲民，并邀请了名人品牌大使代言。在2021年，该系 列的销售额增长了六倍，亦吸引更多合作伙伴加入，至今 推出了60多件新设计。 PlatinumWoman 系列产品
14 | JNA July/August 2022 SPECIAL FEATURES Demand for coloured gemstones is outstripping supply as the market restocks after production challenges and travel restrictions at the height of the Covid-19 pandemic. Gemstone miners are registering strong – often record-high – sales at 2022 auctions while new and upcoming goods are poised to offer the trade and consumers greater variety for their coloured gem needs. Operations at Gemfields’ Kagem emerald mine in Zambia and Montepuez ruby mine in Mozambique have returned to pre-pandemic levels. According to Gemfields CEO Sean Gilbertson, Kagem is expected to yield 37,993,000 carats of emeralds and beryls this year while the 2022 target at Montepuez is 1,073,648 carats of rubies and corundum. Both mines suspended operations in March 2020 and saw a phased resumption of principal operations a year later, reaching normal capacity by the end of May 2021. Sales records Travel restrictions, quarantine periods and congregation limits due to the pandemic disrupted Gemfields’ auction calendar, forcing it to pivot to online auctions and a re-mapped schedule. Gemfields’ Montepuez ruby mine in Mozambique Gemfields位于莫桑比克的蒙特普埃兹红宝石矿 Gemstone miners are ramping up production to meet strong market demand for coloured gemstones as evinced in this year’s record-breaking auction results. New gemstone deposits meanwhile open up a world of possibilities for the jewellery trade. 彩色宝石在2022年拍卖会上刷新成交纪录， 促使矿商积极提高产量，以满足市场对彩宝的强劲需求。一些全新的宝石矿源， 也令行业更多姿多彩。 | Olivia Quiniquini 程爱莉 | 宝石矿商的业务策略 Gemstones: Strategies from mine to market
JNA July/August 2022 | 15 专题报道 In 2020, Gemfields held its Kagem commercialquality auction in February and then switched to a series of smaller multi-city auctions that November and December to sustain business amid lockdowns and other pandemic-related challenges. The following year, it achieved record-breaking auction revenues – a trend that continued into 2022. “The success of our multi-city auctions, combined with the introduction of an online bidding system, has provided greater flexibility for the Group in the ever-changing circumstances we encounter,” revealed Gilbertson. Sales this year have surpassed pre-Covid results. Gemfields’ revenue from its two Kagem emerald auctions and one ruby auction in the first half of 2022 reached US$181 million, beating its prior record of US$93 million set in the first half of 2018. InMay, Kagem’s emerald auction in Bangkok, Thailand – its second emerald auction in 2022 – set new records for the highest revenue and the highest average price per carat achieved at any of Gemfields’ 41 Kagem auctions since July 2009. Kagem’s auction revenues for the first half of 2022 stood at US$85.7 million, compared to US$92.3 million for the entire 2021. Meanwhile, Gemfields’ ruby auction in June brought in US$95.6 million, a new revenue record for any Gemfields auction. “These results reaffirm the remarkable levels of demand prevailing in the emerald and ruby markets. Demand has been driven by the ability of customers to travel and meet again after the challenges that had been brought upon by the Covid-19 pandemic,” said Gilbertson. According to the company official, all qualities and sizes of Gemfields’ Zambian emeralds and Mozambique rubies have been moving extremely well in the market. “There has been strong demand coming from China as the Chinese luxury goods market continues to grow. China is increasingly becoming a strong consumer of our gemstones, as they can find a stable and reliable supplier in Gemfields,” he added. Blue wonders Spinel and peridot – two gemstones that are soaring in popularity – are also getting a significant supply boost with the discovery of new deposits of quality material. Mahenge Gems has brought to market cobalt spinel from a new deposit approximately 12.5 miles southeast of Mahenge, Tanzania. From October 2021, miners started bringing in sizeable specimens of blue crystals suspected to be the rare cobalt spinel rather than the regular blue spinel. Swiss Gemmological Institute SSEF conducted a detailed analysis of a selection of the material, confirming cobalt as the main colouring element (chromophore), in combination with iron. SSEF found that the inclusions in these Tanzanian cobalt-blue spinels had similarities to the red spinel from Morogoro in eastern Tanzania, namely oriented geometric lamellae with interference colours together with lines of fine particles. Through Raman spectroscopy, SSEF also found colourless apatite and clusters of small zircon inclusions. “Cobalt-blue spinel from this new source inTanzania is a welcome and attractive addition to the trade,” said SSEF Director Dr. Michael Krzemnicki. “It is also fascinating material for us gemmologists to study, as these spinels 14.49-carat peridot rough; 5.96-carat and 4.07-carat peridots from Fuli Gemstones 富丽宝石的14.49克拉橄榄石原石; 5.96克拉橄榄石及4.07克拉橄榄石 37.9M 3,790万克拉 Gemfields’ Kagem emerald mine in Zambia is expected to produce 37,993,000 carats of emeralds and beryls in 2022 Gemfields位于赞比亚的卡棋穆祖母绿矿， 预计在2022年出产总重量达37,993,000克拉的祖母绿和绿柱石
16 | JNA July/August 2022 SPECIAL FEATURES display specific gemmological characteristics that are helpful for origin determination.” Though chemically similar to the cobalt-spinel material from sources in Vietnam, the Tanzanian stones come in 1 carat to 40 carats, and their colours have ranged from a neon electric blue to a denim blue. Cobalt blue spinels from Vietnam’s Luc Yen district are usually 1 carat and below. And while they are often described as a “neon, Windex-y blue,” they tend to be lighter and more pastel than the electric blues recently discovered in Mahenge. Some of the newfound cobalt blue spinels are also neon and pure blues with no trace of grey. Wez Barber, director of Mahenge Gems, said the Tanzanian cobalt spinels have caught the attention of collectors, investors and jewellery designers. “We are targeting primarily Japan, Europe and the US – mature markets that have a higher concentration of gemstone enthusiasts and professionals that understand the true rarity of this material,” he shared. The trade price for the natural cobalt blue spinels from Mahenge Gems starts from US$2,000 per carat to per-carat prices that rival that of Vietnam’s Luc Yen cobalt spinels. Completely untreated, the gems are certified by SSEF, GRS GemResearch Swisslab AG and ICA GemLab. Green option Peridot meanwhile is the primary focus of Fuli Gemstones. The company’s Yiqisong Nanshan mining project located in the foothills of the Changbai Mountains in China is slated to commence commercial production in 2024, with a ramp up over six years to full capacity production of 300,000 tonnes of ore per year from 2030. “Fuli Gemstones will be a dominant supplier of peridots in the global market once our mine reaches full capacity,” said Pia Tonna, the company’s chief marketing officer. “The sample testing during our mining exploration stage has suggested our mine can produce peridot in a variety of sizes. This will enable us to provide a consistent supply for the full spectrum of jewellery, from single, large gemstones for high jewellery suites through to stones below 1 carat for smaller calibrated goods.” According to Tonna, Fuli Gemstones has a fully integrated business model, from mining and sorting to grading, cutting and polishing all the way to sales and marketing. It does not deal in rough. Cut and polished peridots, peridot gem dots and rough peridot gemstones will be its principal products. Fuli’s stones range from pure green to yellowish green, greenish yellow, brownish green and brown. “Peridot is a truly natural gemstone. Unlikemany gems sold today, heat treatments are not typically associated with peridot. The beauty admired in gem-quality peridot Over the past few years, we have taken considerable strides in tailoring our portfolio to reflect our focus on the ‘Big Three’ coloured gemstones: Rubies, emeralds and sapphires, in our preferred origin of Africa. We remain keen to complete the ‘Big Three’ and are currently identifying suitable sapphire opportunities in Africa to complement our thriving ruby and emerald operations. – Sean Gilbertson, CEO, Gemfields Cobalt spinels fromMahenge, Tanzania 坦桑尼亚马亨盖地区的钴尖晶石
JNA July/August 2022 | 17 专题报道 comes naturally. Typically, the only enhancements performed on peridot come from fashioning a cut stone and integrating it into a jewellery design,” she explained. Till commercial production kicks in, the company is drumming up interest in peridot and positioning it as a fresh and vibrant gem. “For the last few years, we have been educating the industry and end-consumers on the history and background of peridot via our social media channels, designer collaborations and sponsorships. We are seeing highly respected, independent jewellers using peridot in their creations, for example, Taffin, Verdura and Hemmerle, as well as some young, up-and-coming designers,” said Tonna. Fuli Gemstones also works with established and upcoming jewellery designers on pieces featuring stones from its initial sampling to raise awareness of peridots. Recent projects include the Magnipheasant red carpet necklace by Stephen Webster and a Toi et Moi ring by Aurelia & Pierre. On top of participating in key trade shows, Fuli Gemstones will have its own online platform, where the gemstone trade will be able to access its inventory. It is also developing a traceability programme for its peridots. Greater issues Aside from commercial success and sufficient supply, gemstone companies count ethical mining and sustainability among their foremost objectives. Customer interest in wider industry matters such as traceability and supply chain transparency has actually increased since the lockdowns, noted Gilbertson. Gemfields was a pilot partner of Gubelin’s traceability technology and is firmly committed to the betterment of the communities in which it operates, he said. “Operationally, our Montepuez mine provides stable employment for approximately 1,426 people, 95 per cent of which are Mozambican nationals, receiving salaries above the living wage with working conditions that protect their health and safety. There are thousands of additional job opportunities that have been created for the local population in terms of the supply chain and services affiliated with the mine,” Gilbertson shared. Gemfields’ community-based initiatives include creating a vocational training centre to help 2,100 young men and women over seven years, funding the construction of schools, establishingmobile health clinics and supporting local villagers during the pandemic. Tonna of Fuli Gemstones notes that sustainability and ethical mining are the coloured gemstone industry’s responsibility to the planet and its inhabitants. “Our mining operation uses mainly the cut-andfill method of mining, and almost everything that is extracted from the mine tunnel is repurposed. As well as the gemstones, the basalt rock and olivine sand have various uses in industry. The basalt rock can be used for construction and the olivine sand is an environmentally natural abrasive alternative,” she said. The road ahead Coming off a stellar first-half, Gemfields is optimistic of further revenue gains in the last six months of the year, though perhaps at less lofty levels, Gilbertson said. Sean Gilbertson, CEO of Gemfields Gemfields首席执行官Sean Gilbertson Rough rubies from Gemfields Gemfields的红宝石原石
18 | JNA July/August 2022 SPECIAL FEATURES The company will continue to consolidate its position as a world-leading miner of responsibly sourced African emeralds, rubies and sapphires. Gemfields intends to introduce a second treatment plant at Montepuez, which is set to triple the mine’s production capacity. It also aims to secure an African sapphire licence to complete its ‘Big Three’ portfolio, Gilbertson revealed. “Over the past few years, we have taken considerable strides in tailoring our portfolio to reflect our focus on the ‘Big Three’ coloured gemstones: Rubies, emeralds and sapphires, in our preferred origin of Africa. We remain keen to complete the ‘Big Three’ and are currently identifying suitable sapphire opportunities in Africa to complement our thriving ruby and emerald operations,” Gilbertson revealed. Gemfields also aims to expand its marketing activities to boost demand for coloured gemstones and to develop the activities of Gemfields Foundation to benefit the communities and conservation efforts in sub-Saharan Africa, he added. Mahenge Gems, for its part, is enjoying brisk business after a substantial slump at the height of the pandemic. Barber recalled that sales were limited during the lockdowns since the company did not want to change its business model. Mahenge Gems does not sell online and only deals with established regular clients. Business has since picked up significantly, following a strong 2021. “We specialise in Tanzanian and east African stones. Pink and red spinels are always super popular and all markets are on the up,” Barber said. Tonna of Fuli Gemstones is bullish on business prospects and prices of peridots moving forward. She noted that peridot prices are on the rise with a compound annual growth rate of approximately 5.4 per cent from 2010 to 2021 for larger stones. Market demand is also bolstered by jewellers and designers looking beyond emerald, sapphire and ruby for their creations, she added. 为缓解后封锁时代的抑压情绪，最近市场对色泽 丰富、深邃、明亮的宝石兴趣渐浓，令彩色宝石 呈现求过于供的现象。宝石矿商在2022年的拍 卖会上取得强劲的销售额，并屡破纪录，而一些新近上市 的彩宝类型，也有望为行业和消费者提供更多选择。 Gemfields在赞比亚的卡棋穆(Kagem)祖母绿矿和莫 桑比克的蒙特普埃兹(Montepuez)红宝石矿，已回复疫情 前的运营水平。据Gemfields首席执行官Sean Gilbertson 称，卡棋穆矿预计今年将生产37,993,000克拉的祖母 绿和绿柱石，而蒙特普埃兹矿的2022年目标产量则为 1,073,648克拉的红宝石和刚玉。两个矿场均于2020年3 月暂停运营，一年后分阶段恢复主要运作，并于2021年5 月底前回复正常产能。 骄人的销售纪录 疫情大流行导致的旅游限制、检疫期和集会限制，扰 乱了Gemfields的拍卖日程，迫使其转向在线拍卖和重新 规划 G 时 em间 fi 表 el 。 ds在2020年2月举行了卡棋穆矿商业级宝石 拍卖会，其后在11月和12月于多个城市推出一系列小型 拍卖会。翌年，该公司的拍卖收入屡创纪录，势头一直持 续到“ 2 我 02 们 2 在年 多。 个城市举行的拍卖会取得成功,加上全新 电子竞标线上平台系统的推出，也在疫情限制实施期间 提供了一定的灵活度。”Gilbertson透露。 2022年上半年，Gemfields共进行了两次卡棋穆祖母 绿拍卖和一次红宝石拍卖，收入高达1.81亿美元，打破了 2018 年上半年创下的9,300万美元纪录。 5月，卡棋穆在泰国曼谷举行的祖母绿拍卖会，是该 矿场在2022年的第二场祖母绿拍卖，并刷新了纪录—— 自2009年7月以来，Gemfields共推出了41场卡棋穆矿拍 卖会，这次的拍卖收入和每克拉平均价格均创下新高。 在2022年上半年，卡棋穆矿的拍卖收入为8 , 570 万美元，而2021年的全年数字则为9 , 230万美元。另 外，Gemfields的6月份红宝石拍卖更带来了9,560万美元 的收入，刷新Gemfields历来所有拍卖的纪录。 Rough emeralds from Gemfields Gemfields的祖母绿原石 9.06-carat peridot from Fuli Gemstones 富丽宝石的9.06克拉橄榄石
JNA July/August 2022 | 19 专题报道 Mahenge Gems总监Wez Barber表示，这种宝石深受 收藏家、投资者和珠宝设计师垂青：“日本、欧洲和美国是 我们的主要目标市场。该些地区已发展成熟，有更多宝石 爱好者和专业人士真正了解其稀有性。” Mahenge Gems天然钴蓝尖晶石的价格由每克拉 2,000美元起，其余的价格也可媲美越南陆安钴尖晶石。 宝石已通过SSEF、GRS和ICA GemLab认证，并且完全未 经加工处理。 绿色彩宝之选 橄榄石是富丽宝石的焦点产品。位于中国长白山山脚 的意气松南山项目，将于2024年开始进行商业化生产， 并在六年内逐步提高产量，预期由2030年起达到每年30 万吨矿石的满负荷产能。 “一旦富丽宝石的矿山达到满负荷生产，我们将成 为全球橄榄石的主要供应商，＂富丽宝石首席营销官Pia Tonna又指：“采石样品经测试显示，我们的矿山可以生 产各种尺寸的橄榄石。这将使我们能够为各种珠宝提供 一致的供应——从用于高级珠宝套件的单一大宝石，到1 克拉以下的宝石。” Gilbertson称：“拍卖成绩如此骄人，再次证明了祖母 绿和红宝石市场普遍存在大量需求。经历新冠疫情的挑 战后，客户已能够再次出游和亲身会面，从而推动了需 求。”他表示，不论质量或尺寸，该公司所有赞比亚祖母 绿和莫桑比克红宝石都呈现庞大需求。“随着中国奢侈 品市场持续成长，该国的需求也愈见强劲。中国客户视 Gemfields为稳定可靠的供应商，并逐渐成为本公司的宝 石消费强国。” 珍贵的蓝色瑰宝 尽管广受欢迎的尖晶石和橄榄石供应有限，新矿床的 面世将会缓解这项挑战。 坦桑尼亚马亨盖地区(Mahenge)东南面约12.5英里的 新矿床，所出产的钴尖晶石已由Mahenge Gems正式推 出市场。从2021年10月起，矿工开始发掘出大量相信是 钴尖晶石的蓝色晶体，而非市场上常见的蓝色尖晶石。 SSEF在这些坦桑尼亚钴尖晶石中也发现，其内含物 与坦桑尼亚东部莫罗戈罗(Morogoro)的红色尖晶石相 近，其定向几何片晶结构带有干涉色，并呈现由微细颗粒 形成的线条。透过拉曼光谱，SSEF 还发现了一些无色磷 灰石和成簇的细小锆石内含物。 “这种来自坦桑尼亚新产地的钴蓝尖晶石，在市场 上的吸引力非凡，并且广受欢迎，”SSEF总监Michael Krzemnicki博士说。“它也是我们宝石学家用心研究的 迷人材料，因为这些尖晶石显示的宝石学特征，有助确定 原产 虽地 然。”这种坦桑尼亚钴尖晶石与越南的品种类近，但前 者的色调呈现霓虹电蓝，以至“牛仔布”蓝色不等，重量更 可达1至40克拉。相比之下，越南陆安地区的钴尖晶石通 常只有1克拉或以下，其“Windex式的霓虹蓝色”，色泽偏 向轻柔浅淡；部分最新面世的马亨盖钴尖晶石也呈霓虹 色，而且是不带任何灰色的纯蓝色。 Gemfields’ Kagem emerald mine in Zambia Gemfield位于赞比亚的卡棋穆祖母绿矿 US$181M 1.81亿美元 Auction revenues of Gemfields in the first half of 2022, beating its prior record of US$93 million set in the first half of 2018 Gemfields在2022年上半年的拍卖收入， 打破2018年上半年的9,300万美元旧纪录
20 | JNA July/August 2022 SPECIAL FEATURES 富丽宝石实践综合业务模式，覆盖开采、分拣、分级、 切割、打磨，以至销售和营销等多重程序，而非只纯粹销 售原石。主要产品包括切磨橄榄石、圆点状橄榄石和原 石。富丽宝石的橄榄石色调有纯绿色、黄绿色、绿黄色、棕 绿色以至棕色不等。 “橄榄石是一种真正的天然宝石。与当今销售的许 多宝石不同，热处理通常与橄榄石无关。宝石级橄榄石 的美丽是自然而然的。在通常情况下，对橄榄石进行的 唯一改进来自于加工切割宝石，并将其整合到珠宝设计 中，”Tonna解释道。 开始商业生产之前，该公司特别与著名和新晋珠宝设 计师合作，从而激发人们对橄榄石的兴趣。 Tonna说：“过去几年，我们一直透过社交媒体、设计 师合作计划和赞助项目，向业内同侪和终端消费者宣传 橄榄石的历史和背景。不少备受推崇的独立珠宝商，如 Taffin、Verdura和Hemmerle，还有一些崭露头角的年轻 设计师，都在作品中采用橄榄石。” 新近作品包括Stephen Webster的Magnipheasant华 丽项链和Aurelia & Pierre的Toi et Moi戒指。 除了参与大型贸易展，富丽宝石也正在开发溯源项目 和在线平台，为业界提供增添库存的渠道，还为其橄榄石 开发可追溯性程序。 重点议题 Gilbertson称，除了商业上的成功和充足的供应外， 宝石公司还将道德采矿和可持续性列为他们的首要目 标。自各国实行疫情封锁以来，客户对于广泛的行业议题 更感兴趣，如产品溯源和供应链的透明度。 他指出，Gemfields是古柏林(Gubelin)溯源技术的试 点合作伙伴，并致力改善其运营地点的社区状况。 “我们的蒙特普埃兹矿为大约1,426人提供稳定的就 业机会，其中95%是莫桑比克国民。他们的工资高于当地 的平均生活工资，工作环境也能保障其健康和安全。在与 矿场相关的供应链和服务方面，当地也额外创造了数千 个就业机会。”Gilbertson分享道。 该公司推出一系列以社区为本的措施，包括创立职业 训练中心、在七年内培训2,100名年青男女员工、资助学 校建设、建立流动诊所，以及在疫情期间支援当地村民。 富丽宝石的Tonna指出，彩宝行业应加强推广可持续 发展和道德开采，履行对地球和人类的责任。 她说：“我们的采矿作业主要采用挖填法，而且几乎所 有从矿场隧道中提取的物质都可以被重新利用。除了宝 石外，玄武岩和橄榄石砂在工业上也用途广泛，前者可用 于建筑，后者则是一种天然的磨料替代品。” 行业前景 虽然Gemfields在2022年上半年的拍卖成绩斐然，但 Gilbertson特别提醒从业者，下半年的营收不太可能与首 六个月相提并论。然而，他对2022年下半年的前景仍然 表示 他乐 说观 ：。作为领先全球的责任采购非洲祖母绿、红宝 石和蓝宝石矿商，我们的策略仍然在于巩固这方面的地 位。Gemfields计划在蒙特普埃兹矿开设第二所厂房，令 该矿的产能提升至三倍。他们现时的目标是取得非洲蓝 宝石开采许可证，开拓完整的“三大彩宝”组合。 Gilbertson说：“过去数年间，本公司全力调整产品组 合，以反映我们对非洲红宝石、祖母绿和蓝宝石这‘三大 彩宝’品种的重视。我们正在非洲寻找合适的机会，进行 蓝宝石开采工作，务求在蓬勃的红宝石和祖母绿业务上 更创新猷，建立完整的‘三大彩宝’产品组合。 此外，我们也加强市场推广工作，以刺激彩色宝石的 需求，同时筹备Gemfields基金会的活动，为撒哈拉以南 的社区和保育工作尽一分力。” 新冠疫情最严峻期间，Mahenge Gems的业绩大幅下 挫。Barber 回忆道，由于该公司并未发展线上销售系统， 只专注旧有客户网络，加上不希望改变原有的营商模式， 因此在全球封锁期间遭受不少销售上的限制。 幸而其后业绩显著回升，更经历了强劲的2 0 2 1 年。Barber说：“我们专注经营坦桑尼亚和东非的宝石。粉 红色和红色尖晶石一直深受欢迎，所有市场的业务均重 拾活 富力 丽。”宝石的Tonna看好橄榄石的前景和升值潜力。她 指出，橄榄石价格正在上涨，在2010至2021年期间，大型 橄榄石的复合年增长率约为5.4%。她补充说，不少珠宝 商和设计师都希望在祖母绿、蓝宝石和红宝石以外寻求 其他宝石品种，从而刺激了市场需求。 Peridot earrings by Annoushka x Fuli Gemstones Annoushka与富丽宝石合作推出的橄榄石耳环 1-40 carats 克拉 Sizes of Cobalt blue spinel from Mahenge, Tanzania; stones from Vietnam’s Luc Yen district are usually 1 carat and below 坦桑尼亚马亨盖地区的钴尖晶石重量。 相比之下，越南陆安地区的钴尖晶石通常只有1克拉或以下
22 | JNA July/August 2022 SPECIAL FEATURES The Covid-19 pandemic was instrumental in transforming many aspects of our lives – from making healthier lifestyle choices to how we do business and purchase products. Priorities have shifted while reliance on new technology and online platforms was at its highest as in-person events became scarcer. Companies were driven to expedite technological upgrades and modernisation efforts within and outside their organisations, and e-commerce and digital events became major components of their business strategies. At the heart of all these are changes in consumer behaviours, which have effectively altered the way that companies market and sell their goods. Emotion-based purchases were on the rise, with consumers wanting more than ever to celebrate and commemorate loved ones, occasions and milestones. Bain & Co and the Antwerp World Diamond Centre’s 11th annual diamond report 2021-2022, published in April this year, reported that the personal luxury and diamond jewellery markets saw decade-high growth of 35 per cent and 29 per cent, respectively, in 2021 as governments eased Covid restrictions and people were once again able to venture into shopping districts. The study attributed the increase in diamond jewellery sales to customers’ urge for emotional gifting, increased savings, limited availability of experienceConsumers’ unrelenting appetite for jewellery to celebrate moments and achievements continues to defy large-scale challenges but the way they choose, interpret and purchase jewellery is changing. 尽管市场迎向庞大挑战，消费者对珠宝的需求依然不变，并借此庆贺人生的重要时刻 和成就。然而，珠宝的价值所在和购买方式已随时间而改变。 | Bernardette Sto. Domingo 杜明高 | 珠宝零售业自强不息 jewellery retail The resilience of
JNA July/August 2022 | 23 专题报道 based substitutes, and restricted travel, with demand rising further during the second half of 2021 leading up to the winter holiday season. Retail sales in major jewellery markets the US and China also recorded robust growth last year. Data from the National Retail Federation (NRF) showed that retail sales in the US were up 14 per cent in 2021 – the highest growth rate in more than 20 years. Sales were strongest in the holiday season from November and December 2021, reaching US$886.7 billion year on year. Clothing and clothing accessories, which include jewellery retailers, saw a 33.1 per cent uptick in sales. Citing consumers’ capability and enthusiasm to spend, NRF said it expects retail sales to grow between 6 per cent and 8 per cent to more than US$4.86 trillion in 2022. China, for its part, recorded a 29.8 per cent growth in retail sales of gold, silver and jewellery in 2021 as business and consumer sentiment rebounded, data from the National Bureau of Statistics of China showed. Sales however receded in 2022 as China faced a severe wave of Covid-19 cases and the government implemented tough anti-epidemic policies, including lockdowns and travel restrictions. Faced with continuous uncertainties and fluctuating Covid regulations, consumershavedevelopedanewfound penchant for buying jewellery online, with demand for reasonably priced, daily-wear jewellery pieces providing new avenues for growth for retailers. Apart from offering more affordable products, retailers are shining the spotlight on meaningful purchases amid the pandemic. Despite a challenging environment, customers still want to honour people and accomplishments. They also recognise the value that jewellery pieces hold, especially those adorned with topquality gemstones in precious metals. New trends The jewellery sector faced significant challenges since Covid, but it has emerged stronger than before, thanks to its agile and resilient nature. Major trends are driving jewellers to up the ante and offer even more innovative products and services. Consumers turned to online shopping more than ever during the prolonged pandemic. They have become more accustomed to purchasing jewellery online and smart retailing was on the rise. – Chow Tai Fook Jewellery Group Ltd Freer / Shutterstock.com
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