设计 JNA Jan/Feb 2022 | 37 Italian jewellery designer Annamaria Cammilli has successfully melded her artistic pursuits with the business of jewellery making. The result: A jewellery maison with decades of expertise on its shoulders and celebrated for its unparalleled design and craftsmanship. Cammilli sits down with JNA to talk about her dazzling journey into the world of fine jewellery. JNA: Could you describe Annamaria Cammilli's design philosophy? What makes your collections stand out in the fine jewellery space? Annamaria Cammilli: As an artist and painter, I have devoted my whole life to the pursuit of beauty. Be they paintings, sculptures or jewellery, I always try to catch the splendour of nature and eternalise it in my work. Today, our jewellery pieces stand out for their design – extraordinary three-dimensional shapes and volumes, which are modelled by expert hands as real miniature sculptures and distinguished for a special velvety finish of gold available in eight different colours. Each Cammilli creation tells a story of craftsmanship and meticulous attention to detail. They are strictly 100 per cent ‘Made in Italy.’ As I usually say, ‘Cammilli jewels are recognisable without reading the label.’ JNA: How do you respond to modern buyers' rising preference for individuality and expressive designs? Cammilli: Our customers are very demanding, and they do not settle for jewellery whose value is dictated merely by the materials employed. Buyers are looking for something imbued with a quality that goes far beyond the intrinsic value of the jewellery. They are after a kind of design, creativity and savoir-faire that is rare and exceptional. And this is what we try to offer them – jewellery with features so unique that gold and precious stones are transformed into timeless pieces that they can keep, cherish and hand down to future generations. JNA: What has changed in the brand's creative strategy since its inception in 1983? Cammilli: In the 70s, I started to apply my creative flair to jewellery design. The result was stunning. I discovered that gold could become my canvas and the gemstones the colours to express my creativity. This was how I began making artistic jewellery for a niche market. My unusual and special creations were ‘Dune’ rings戒指 Annamaria Cammilli earrings耳环 appreciated by an elite group of admirers. Over the years, my son and daughter joined the company and set in motion a crucial evolution, with the support of an increasingly large creative team. The original, recognisable style and the special processing technique that I have perfected gradually became more suitable for an expanding clientele that demands contemporary, dynamic yet inventive jewellery pieces. This transformed an artisan business into a progressive endeavour that still honours the company’s fundamental motivation, which remains rigorously manual and creative. JNA: Are you working on new collections? If so, could you share with us your design influences? Cammilli: We are currently developing a new concept – Velaa – based on a linear design, with large and pervasive volumes generated by an elegant interplay between thin gold ribbons and the space in between. In this new creative concept, air is the key element that helps to define spaces and shapes, giving lightness to the pieces. The pronounced three-dimensionality of the pieces is accentuated by the play of light of the ‘Cammilli finish,’ an alternation of shiny and velvety gold surfaces that bestow on the jewels an iridescent appearance. Born in 2020 as an extension of the Dune series and evidenced by its original name Dune Velaa, Velaa soon broke away from its original matrix and gave life to multiple variants: Velaa Star, Velaa Pavé, Velaa Royale and most recently, Velaa Color, where the characteristic minimal design meets the vivid colours of rubies, sapphires, emeralds and fancy colour diamonds.
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