DESIGN 32 | JNA Jan/Feb 2022 for the environment, and in 3D printing and additive manufacturing. It is about exploring how those can generate similar value to traditional manufacturing processes and how those can be more climate neutral. The challenge is to position these new technologies as valuable assets,” he remarked. There will also be widespread focus on sustainability and frugality that will shift consumer perception of luxury. Das added, “The jewellery industry will have to reshape itself in terms of brand perceptions, consumer attitude and redefine the meaning of luxury since its current perception of luxury is extremely traditional.” Musci meanwhile predicted that consumers will value quality over quantity, adding that craftsmanship will become increasingly important to consumers with a focus on sustainability and fair trade. Das commented, “As consumers become more frugal, they will be investing more and spending less on luxury items, which will impact the way businesses roll out new brands.” Dzhokhadze of Connect Agency also witnessed a shift in consumers’ concept of luxury. “Sustainability and quality are key and consumers are curious to discover how the industry will adapt to meet the criteria of ethical and sustainable production and design. If businesses want to thrive in the future, they need to take sustainability and accessibility more seriously,” said Dzhokhadze. Circular design A global commitment towards sustainability has led to new and established circular designs, blended models and widespread experimentation with alternative materials like ceramic, wood, titanium, recycled metals and precious plastics. Designers pay their respects to the planet through floral designs that are rendered in both natural and upcycled materials. The pandemic has challenged designers to think outside the box. One designer who has experimented with this concept is Emanuela Burgener of Margherita Burgener. Emanuela recently collaborated with Italian artist Enrica Borghi for “Precious Plastic,” a capsule Musci added, “It is interesting how the idea of living in a ‘metaverse life’ could push consumers to buy less impulsively, which means having less waste and being more sustainable.” Jewellery influencer Katerina Perez meanwhile underscored the importance of cultivating a social media community. She explained, “Social media is not just a visual catalogue but a platform to build loyal followers, consumers and even friends that share the same passion. It is about having a consistent presence online. Posting more suggests reliability in the digital world.” Without international travel, jewellers explored new ways of reaching customers. Nina Dzhokhadze of London-based digital jewellery showroom Connect Agency said her company successfully shifted its physical showroom to a digital space in 2020. The B2B platform connects brands with global stockists and retail stores, offering them greater exposure to a wider audience. Instead of representing designers in a physical space and seeing buyers and press in person, designers now have full digital representation. “At the time, everyone was locked up at home and Zoom meetings proved to be as efficient as physical ones. Even though buyers were not able to touch, try and see the jewellery pieces, they were keen enough to invest in new designers and happy to explore new brands in a digital format,” noted Dzhokhadze. Sustainability and new perspectives Environmental changes and sustainability continue to be macrotrends. “Everyone thinks that sustainability is associated with the green footprint,” said De Luca. “This can be summarised by the five Ps: People, planet, prosperity, peace and partnerships. It is about understanding how we can support civil rights, community, well-being and environment, and how we can preserve our natural resources, and protect our present and future generations.” According to Das, sustainability, circularity and technology will be the biggest drivers in the jewellery industry. “In technology, we are seeing more investments in lab-grown diamonds, making them more suitable Earrings by Carol Kauffmann and double ring by Larissa Moraes. Photo courtesy of Connect Agency Carol Kauffmann的耳环和Larissa Moraes的双环戒指。 照片由Connect Agency提供
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