JNA Sep/ Oct 2021

市場情報 JNA Sep/Oct 2021 | 55 Art Nouveau was completely organic, fluid and valued the aesthetic of original art over intrinsic value and expectation. – Jewellery expert and historian Helen Molesworth Sylvia gold pendant with plique-à-jour enamel, agates, rubies and diamonds by Maison Vever 1900 (Photo 圖片來源 : Musée des Arts Décoratifs, Paris) Sylvia 金吊墜，飾以彩繪玻璃琺瑯、瑪瑙、紅寶石和鑽 石， Maison Vever 出品， 1900 年 revivalist style of the 19 th century that was considered “the tyranny of the diamond.” “As with many of the great artistic movements of their time, Art Nouveau was reactionary, a fight against all that had come before, in other words, heavy Victorian gothic and pastiche, imitating revivals of all things antiquated, classical and the industrialisation of design,” added Geneva-based jewellery expert and historian Helen Molesworth. “Art Nouveau was completely organic, fluid and valued the aesthetic of original art over intrinsic value and expectation.” Motifs and materials The dominant themes of Art Nouveau jewels were nature – flora, fauna, insects – and the feminine figure, as well as colourful landscapes. In the realm of the botanical, flowers and plants took on a new dimension in the hands of Art Nouveau creators. “Floral motifs now had the quiver of life. Petals seemed to bend with a breath of air; roses withered; lilies curved in sensuous melancholy,” added Alexandris. “Particularly fascinating were orchids that became almost surreal.” The feminine motif, often sensual, occupied an important place in this new movement. At the end of the 19 th century, in reaction to male dominance in all walks of life, the role of women began to change, and this evolution was reflected in the new artistic designs of the era. As they became more conscious of their new position in society and more assertive with their femininity, “women were not ashamed to adorn themselves with jewels depicting the feminine form in all its beauty and sensuality,” Alexandris noted. The feminine figure was also transformed in endless ways by transposing it into mystical and colourful fairies and nymphs, adorned with butterfly or dragonfly wings, often sporting claws, adding to the dichotomy of the design. In the world of fauna and insects, other important themes in Art Nouveau were peacocks, snakes, dragonflies, butterflies, wasps and even bats, as well as myriad other animals and birds, including mythical serpents, dragons and griffins. While perhaps a rather unlikely theme given their undeserved negative reputation, bats were depicted in Art Nouveau paintings, decorations and jewels. “The bat evokes many meanings,” explained Marie- Laure Cassius-Duranton, Paris-based art historian and expert on vintage jewellery. “In China, it is a symbol of happiness, carnal love and longevity. In the Western world, while its significance is more ambiguous, it also symbolises melancholy, with an inference to the night.”