JNA Sep/ Oct 2021

市場情報 JNA Sep/Oct 2021 | 47 Spinel and diamond ring by Ivy New York Ivy New York 的尖晶石鑽石戒指 Pear-shaped earrings with red spinels, rubies and diamonds by Ivy New York Ivy New York 的梨形耳環，鑲嵌紅色尖晶石、紅寶石和鑽石 L ong underestimated, spinel is finally taking its rightful place among the greats in the coloured gemstone world. In the last few years, it has been enchanting the trade and the public alike with its wondrous colours and versatility. Remarkably, spinel had been hiding in plain sight for years, often mistaken for its more prominent counterparts. Royalty over the centuries displayed a fondness for the stone, which occupied pride of place in many a resplendent crown. The Black Prince’s Ruby, an uncut 170-carat red spinel, adorns the Imperial State Crown of the British royal family. Spinels likewise sparkle in the jewels of the Tsars of Russia and the Mahajarahs of India. In more recent times, spinel has gained favour in its own right. It ascended to the birthstone ranks in 2016, sharing August billing with peridot. The gemstone is likewise increasingly being showcased in the high jewellery collections of luxury brands such as Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels. One of the highlights of Bulgari’s Magnifica 2021 high jewellery collection is the Imperial Spinel necklace, which features a 131.21-carat spinel, the world’s fourth largest, surrounded by emerald beads and diamonds. All this has elevated spinel in the public eye, noted Tais Farkhodova, marketing manager of Pamir Gems. “Famous jewellery houses have been using spinel in their collections, giving the stone a fashionable and luxurious image,” she remarked. Colourful horizons Colour is spinel’s star quality. Its wide range of colours enables it to fit various design palettes and accommodate most requirements. Spinel meets market demand for fine pinks and reds, adds crisp selections to the ever-popular blue stone category, and offers dazzling options for oranges, lavenders and greys. “The range of colours in spinel’s palette is astounding. Moreover, spinels can be very clean and clear, and come in small to bigger sizes, making them a delight to work with,” said Farkhodova. Market preferences for spinel colours are largely influenced by design, fashion and art trends, she pointed out. Of late, perhaps in response to the gloomy global sentiment, people have been partial to bright, happy, saturated colours. Josh Saltzman of gemstone specialist Nomad’s agrees. In his experience, spinels in bright colours are always in favour, such as reds and pinks. Blues, particularly cobalts from Vietnam, and lavenders are much sought after as well. Grey spinels have surged in popularity in the last few years, he added. “Colour is the main factor most clients consider when selecting spinels. The stones sell quickly when cut and polished well,” he disclosed. “Fine high-end red and pink stones are hard to find in the market in general. Spinel provides this with bright open colours in larger sizes, which helps drive its popularity. On top of this, it is uncommon for spinel to be treated, so the stones are available without the large amounts of treatments that most rubies and sapphires undergo.” For Hamed Kazemini, co-founder and partner of Ruby Roje, spinel’s brilliance is second to none. “It is a fascinating stone that really shines. The rough allows the stones to be cut very well, creating a balance and symmetry that is very pleasing to the eye,” he said. Demand patterns Spinel has indeed been coming into its own these last few years, with coloured gemstone dealers reporting a substantial spike in interest. Singapore, Europe and the US are Pamir Gems' main markets for the gemstone. Nomad’s entertains requests for spinels in all colours, cuts and sizes across its markets in Asia, Europe and the Americas. Its clients range from collectors and manufacturers to small jewellers and larger brands.