JNA Jan/ Feb 2021

市場情報 JNA Jan/Feb 2021 | 49 RISING IN PROMINENCE 銀飾嶄露頭角 SILVER JEWELLERY Silver is a store of value and a popular choice of material after gold. At the height of the lockdown in India from April to June 2020, the country’s silver jewellery exports shot up 93 per cent to US$324.59 million. It was the only exports category that stayed in positive territory amid the coronavirus crisis. 白銀具保值功能，是僅次於黃金的保值之選。 2020 年 4 月至 6 月，印度正處於最嚴峻的封城狀態，其銀飾出口總值卻大幅上升 93% 至 3.2459 億美元。在 新冠肺炎肆虐下，銀飾出口是唯一能避過虧損的項目。 Lightweight leafy gold- plated silver danglers accented with gemstones by Adore Jewels Adore Jewels 的輕盈 葉形寶石鍍金銀垂墜耳環 S ilver plays a significant role in the jewellery sector due to its affordability. India banks on its skilled artisans for handcrafted silver jewellery but it also produces machine-made collections. Many Indian jewellers act as contract manufacturers for international clients. One such firm is Pinkcity Jewel House Pvt Ltd, Jaipur. Company director Manuj Goyal said, “As contract manufacturers for machine- made silver jewellery, we specialise in casting and electroforming.” With e-commerce taking precedence nowadays, clients prefer ethical, properly audited and compliant companies. Goyal noted, “We are certified by the Responsible Jewellery Council, which makes us attractive to overseas customers.” According to Puja Bhargava Kamath, creative head and founder of Lai Designs, market knowledge is crucial to success. The company operates out of the US and India. As a designer, Kamath realised early on that her collections were a strong fit for museum stores in the US where customers seek narratives of artistry, myths and culture. “My brand subscribes to Fair Trade principles and most of my sterling silver collections are handcrafted in Jaipur. Finding your niche market is very important,” Kamath noted. Combining craftsmanship with technology raises the bar on quality. Vivek Shah, founder of jewellery manufacturer and exporter Karma Designs, Ahmedabad, commented, “Our clients want the best quality in terms of setting, polishing and plating. Hence, the majority of our jewellery is cast using state-of-the-art technology. We still have various processes that combine hand craftsmanship and machines. Indian jewellers have access to both craftsmen and machine resources – this is the core strength of India.” Silver being malleable offers more room for experimentation. According to Sunaina Jain, creative head and co-founder of Adore Jewels, Jaipur, overseas demand for handcrafted Indian jewellery is rising. Adore Jewels exports jewellery across nine global markets. Jain said, “The expertise of our Indian karigars (craftsmen) is unparalleled. Our mission is to stay true to our roots and retain the essence of Indian heritage in our creations.” 白銀因價格相宜，地位於高級及時尚珠寶中舉足輕重。印 度的手工珠寶有賴當地精湛工藝，但該國亦擅於使用機械 製成首飾。不少印度銀飾企業均為世界各地不同客戶代工 生產， Pinkcity Jewel House Pvt Ltd. 便是其中之一。該 公司的董事 Manuj Goyal 解釋：“我們是機械製銀飾的合 約製造商，擅於鑄造與電鑄。”如今電子商務盛行，經過 適當審核、符合道德規範且合規格的企業較能吸引國際客 戶。 Goyal 說：“我們的企業獲國際珠寶責任委員會( RJC ) 認證，有助吸引海外客戶。” Lai Designs 於美國及印度經 營業務，其創意總監兼創辦人 Puja Bhargava Kamath 認 為，成功關鍵是了解受眾市場。身為設計師， Kamath 早就 發現他的創作十分適合在美國博物館售賣，因當地顧客追求 盛載藝術技巧、神話與文化故事的作品。他又指：“我的品 牌符合公平交易原則，而大部分純銀系列均於印度齋浦爾手 工製作。同時，找出自己的小眾市場十分重要。” 把悠久工藝與科技結合，能提升產品的品質與飾 面。 Vivek Shah 是印度阿美達巴德 Karma Designs 的創辦 人，他說：“我們的客戶對鑲嵌、拋光與電鍍品質的要求 甚高，因此我們大多以最先進的科技來鑄造珠寶。我們的 工序手工與機械並用，當中包括電腦輔助設計師( CAD )、搪 瓷技術及訂製切割寶石。印度珠寶製造商得天獨厚，既有 工匠人才，又有機械資源。這是印度的主要優勢，亦是我 們的優點。”白銀具韌性，實驗空間亦較大。齋浦爾 Adore Jewels 出口珠寶至全球九個市場，創意總監兼創辦人之一 Sunaina Jain 認為印度手工珠寶的國外需求日增：“印度工 匠( karigars )擁有無可比擬的專業技術。我們的目標是忠於 本源，在滿載故事的作品中保留印度的傳統精髓。”