JNA Jan/ Feb 2021

DESIGN 42 | JNA Jan/Feb 2021 Flora and fauna are regular themes in jewellery, but nature references take on special meaning this year after a global lockdown and natural calamities brought environmental and sustainability issues to the fore. “Little wonder we are seeing a boom in jewellery designs that reference flora, fauna and natural phenomena – rainbows, water, the elements – and whose aesthetics are organic and freeform in style,” the De Beers report said. With sustainability remaining a key consideration for consumers, luxury and fine jewellery increasingly incorporate materials of organic origin such as wood, seeds, fossilised ivory, leather and mother of pearl. “The inclusion of less orthodox materials in jewellery of the highest quality encourages us to reframe ‘preciousness’ – typically defined by price and scarcity – in order to acknowledge the value of thoughtful design and appreciate the meaning inherent in the materials themselves,” the report continued. Rough, included and sliced gemstones add character and uniqueness to jewellery pieces, champion the natural look and nature of the material, and highlight the perfection of nature’s so-called imperfections. 動植物向來都是珠寶設計常見的主題，但疫情和天然災害為全球環境和 可持續性帶來挑戰，因此今年有關自然的首飾主題更具特殊意義。戴比爾斯 的報告稱：“我們看到珠寶設計主題大多都跟植物、動物和大自然現象—— 彩虹、水、元素有關。它們都是有機、自然方式形成的美學概念。” 可持續性仍是消費者的主要考慮因素，奢侈品和高級珠寶越來越喜愛將 木材、種子、象牙化石、皮革和珍珠貝母等有機材料，納入創作之中。 報告亦提到：“在優質珠寶中採用非傳統的材料，讓我們得以重新構 築‘珍貴'的定義——通常以價格和稀缺性來定——學懂貼心設計的價值，並 欣賞材料本身的內在意義。” 而外表粗糙、包了圍邊及橫切成薄片的寶石則為珠寶首飾增添個性和獨 特性，突出和頌讚了材料的自然外貌和特性，亦彰顯了自然界中所謂的缺 憾美。 Natural wonders 大自然靈思 Bangle by Unoaerre Unoaerre 手鐲 Phoenix Yellow Slice diamond earrings by Nina Runsdorf Phoenix Yellow Slice 鑽石耳環， Nina Runsdorf 作品 Flower diamond ring by Nina Runsdorf 花型鑽石戒指