JNA Nov/ Dec 2020

INNOVATION 38 | JNA Nov/Dec 2020 The lab also examined the Marie-Antoinette pearl pendant and the Ana Maria pearl, to name a few. “As a true highlight of this illustrious collection, we recently had the pleasure to analyse the Queen Mary Pearl, a drop- shaped natural pearl of 41.5 carats (166 grains) of the finest quality and lustre,” Cartier noted.  GIA meanwhile tested a unique natural round-shaped melo pearl weighing more than 250 carats – one of the largest melo pearls examined by GIA. The lab also received a couple of high-quality necklaces adorned with large natural saltwater pearls from the Pinctada species, with one of them measuring 9mm to 15mm in diameter. The gem lab likewise analysed a 15.53-carat natural pearl discovered by one of its clients while eating in a restaurant. GIA confirmed that the pearl formed in an edible oyster from the Ostreidae family. Challenges and opportunities Faced with the continuous threat of the Covid-19 pandemic, the future of the industry lies in the ability of cultured pearl farms to continue breeding stock and enhancing its resilience to diseases and climate change, according to Zhou of GIA. The global pearl industry was hit hard by the coronavirus crisis, resulting in weaker demand and significantly lower revenues due to lockdowns, travel restrictions and cancellations of international trade shows. Zhou however sees opportunities for growth in the digital space for pearl traders, especially with the advent of reasonably priced, design-centric pearl jewellery pieces that cater to younger buyers. “Like many other industries, e-commerce is going to play an even more important role in the future growth of the pearl industry,” he noted. “More creative and affordable products tailored to the younger generation and better marketing strategies to raise awareness on pearls would drive the pearl business to new heights.” Pearls also offer consumers with a plethora of choices – from natural or cultured pearl varieties to different colours, sizes and lustre, depending on the occasion. Creative and forward-thinking designs are seen to attract more interest in and demand for the versatile pearl, according to Zhou. SSEF’s Cartier said the natural and cultured pearl sectors – while belonging to different product categories – face challenges due to the Covid-19 pandemic, adding that the trade depends on buyers and sellers being able to travel to do business. Recovery is therefore hinged upon the resumption of international travel. Pearls’ inherent beauty however will always attract attention. As one of the oldest gems known to man, pearls are an important part of the jewellery industry, stated Cartier. “There is so much beauty, tradition and connection to nature in both natural and cultured pearls. That story is perhaps not being told enough. As a gem lab, we will continue to research and educate the trade and consumers about pearls, their history, how they form and share new scientific discoveries about pearls,” he continued. With more discerning buyers, gem labs are also tasked with fostering transparency in the pearl trade. Cartier said gem labs play a critical role in maintaining consumer confidence by carrying out their duty to examine and classify GIA utilises various gemmological and advanced instrumentations for routine pearl analysis such as the micro-CT X-ray unit shown here. Photo by Nuttapol Kitdee / GIA GIA 利用各種寶石學和先進的儀器進行常規珍珠分析，例如此 處顯示的 Micro-CT X 射線裝置 攝影： Nuttapol Kitdee / GIA DNA can be extracted from pearls (here in solution) for species identification, according to SSEF SSEF 指，可從珍珠中提取 DNA ( 圖中的溶液 ) 進行 物種鑑定