JNA Mar 2020

市場情報 JNA Mar/Apr 2020 | 59 Ring and cuff by Antonini Ring and bracelet by Tomasz Donocik V icenzaoro 2020, held from January 17 to 22, featured a total of 1,500 brands who presented their goods to more than 35,000 visitors – the highest recorded number of participants in the last 10 years. Various design and marketing trends prevailed throughout the show. Major jewellery brands sat down with JNA to talk about those trends. Inclusivity Inclusivity and imperfection – salt and pepper diamonds for instance – are currently taking shape in the jewellery trade. According to Stephen Lussier, chairman of Forevermark and executive vice president for consumer and brands of De Beers Group, the so-called 4C’s of diamond quality should no longer be a top consideration when people celebrate life’s moments. “Flawless is a terrible word. We should appreciate inclusions more and start recognising them as nature’s fingerprints,” noted Lussier. Italian jeweller Giovanni Ferraris meanwhile revealed that he will use more fancy colour diamonds such as black, milky white, blue and yellow, in his designs. Design and materials Designs that pay homage to Mother Nature have time and again captivated jewellery buyers and connoisseurs for many centuries. This year, jewellers are responding creatively to a newfound appreciation of planet earth by coming out with nature-inspired pieces. In 2020, the flora and fauna motif will be more visible, with insects, animals, plants and flowers dominating jewellery designs, according to Sergio Antonini of Milan- based Antonini. Butterfly-themed pieces, which were a hit a few years ago, are likely to make a comeback. Ferraris also cited an increase in interest in classic jewellery among today’s buyers. His brand however focusses mostly on design pieces and the use of titanium. Organic shapes and different sizes and cuts of stones that are randomly mounted on a jewellery piece, as seen in the collections of both Antonini and Polish designer Tomasz Donocik, are also creating waves in the market. “Links in fine or chunky designs are also back,” noted London-based Donocik. Fope, which specialises in classic gold jewellery, agreed. “Our distinctive 18-karat gold mesh chains, which we manufacture in-house in Vicenza, are timeless. We do keep an eye on current trends but don’t follow them,” noted Diego Nardin, CEO of Fope. The use of titanium in various hues is also on the rise. French jeweller Lydia Courteille said she favours rose- coloured titanium.