JNA Mar 2020

設計 JNA Mar/Apr 2020 | 51 勇於破舊立新、推土重來，拒絕在原創作品上戴上別人的影 子，來自上海的軒軒銳意改革中國珠寶市場當前局面。 她解釋： “Magma 代表火山噴發後的岩漿。大自然的寶 石就是在高溫高壓的礦床帶經過 N 年的原子聚合而成。我希 望品牌是一個有凝聚力，能夠激情迸發的空間。這不是個人 設計師品牌，而是一個綜合的本土品牌，經過五至十年的磨 練，成為一種孵化器以扶持更多設計師，最終可以克服中國 原創設計的劣勢，成為讓中國人自豪的珠寶品牌。＂ 在品牌創立的三年間， Magma 及其主理人在其創作思 路上經歷了不同階段的蛻變。經過了符合主流價值觀從而製 作繁蕪花卉設計的首兩階段後，軒軒明白到要建立別樹一幟 的獨立風格，品牌必須為團隊建立屬於自己的聲音。 抗陳舊、拒複雜，崇尚線條，選擇直接簡煉和乾淨的 表達， Magma 迄今的創作看似奢華，卻具有趣味的本質和 深刻的思想，創造了讓更多人接受的美感，從寫實延伸到 抽象。 要運營一個珠寶品牌，軒軒坦言除創意外也有實際操作 的考量。＂在選擇商業夥伴時，我看重的是共同理念和價值 觀，和勇於嘗試新事物的能耐。＂堅決不走傳統路線，為藝 術與商業關係取得平衡正是此年青珠寶設計師奮力持守的發 展目標。 A rmed with a degree in gemmology and an inherent artistic talent, Xuan Xuan is relentlessly pursuing a career in jewellery design that highlights ingenuity. JNA: What inspired you to become a jewellery designer? Xuan Xuan: I started working in the trade after graduation and from my experience, I realised that despite the achievements of many jewellery brands in China over the years, there is still a big gap between traditional Chinese designs and jewellery pieces created by world-renowned labels. The lack of design originality hinders Chinese- made jewellery from going global. Three years ago, I started my brand Magma with the aim of fostering more creative designs from China that demonstrate originality and the uniqueness of our culture. JNA: What is the brand’s design philosophy? Xuan: Magma is composed of molten material formed beneath the earth’s crust. It carries great energy from Mother Nature. I hope my creation carries the same magnitude of power and impact on everyone who comes across my work. While it started out as a local brand, Magma is not confined by cultural boundaries. With years of development, I hope to eventually nurture more designers who share the same vision of reaching out to audiences in different countries, and making our name known in the international market. JNA: How would you describe your journey from a jewellery designer to entrepreneur? Xuan: The objectives of managing a jewellery business are quite different from designing jewellery. On top of expressing one’s emotions and inspirations through a jewellery piece, a business operator also needs to strike a balance between cost and market acceptance. I have to face every day with courage, trust my instincts and draw inspiration from people I work with who are also as dedicated to their passion as I am. I believe trusting in true partnerships will help us achieve things beyond our limitations. All images provided by Magma Jewelry & Art