DESIGN 设计 PEARL REPORT | 37 | 2025-2026 especially the softer, more organic ones in this collection, lend themselves naturally to this philosophy. Their subtle beauty complements the idea of understated luxury.” White/Space, a jewellery brand founded in 2016 and based in Los Angeles, also adheres to a minimalist philosophy. Founder and designer Khadijah Fulton is drawn to the pearl’s versatility and unique lustre. According to her, pearls possess a serene elegance that is not present in other gemstones while their diverse shapes and colours offer countless styling possibilities. Fulton aims to surprise and engage her audience by offering the unexpected. She enjoys introducing unusual elements that challenge traditional perceptions. “I design for individuals who have a strong sense of self and appreciate an interplay of boldness and subtlety in jewellery designs,” she added. Melinda Zeman, who founded her Hong Kong-based jewellery brand Boochier in 2019, is also offering new design iterations with her avantgarde pieces. “Nothing I do is ‘classic’ in the traditional sense, so I enjoy mixing and matching in unpredictable ways. I want people to have fun with their jewellery,” remarked Zeman. The brand’s B-Boy Collection, for instance, offers a playful, contemporary reinterpretation of the traditional pearl necklace, blending childhood nostalgia with the bold, street-style energy of 1990s hip-hop. It exemplifies the brand’s signature aesthetic: Contrasting the softness of pearls with more masculine elements like chunky gold chains, enamel beads and diamonds. “I have always loved pearls,” shared Zeman. “But I enjoy using them in ways that feel playful, personal and slightly daring – like a stunning strand with a splash of colour that takes you from day to night. I love colours as well.” This creative approach caters to clients who share her vision and those seeking jewellery that breaks conventions. Zeman’s nonconforming designs likewise offer a glimpse into what she is passionate about – nostalgia, 90s music and childhood. Pearl imperfection Diversity and exceptionality are also dominant themes in the designers’ work. Zeman, for instance, is partial to the silver metallic tones of Tahitian pearls and the iridescent hues of Akoya and South Sea pearls. She often experiments with scale and shape, mixing different-sized pearls within a single strand. “I generally lean towards round pearls, but I have a soft spot for baroques,” she added. Sheibani mixes colours and sizes too, juxtaposing rounds with baroques and mabé pearls alongside lustrous metals. The pearl’s organic softness contrasts with polished metals to create a striking interplay between fluidity and structure. Meanwhile, clean and effortless refinement defines White/Space’s design aesthetic. Pearl studs get a twist with perfectly imperfect flecks while the classic necklace is given a fresh spin with the Dario design, where pearls in varying sizes create a fluid silhouette. The raw beauty of baroque pearls takes centre stage in Fulton’s designs, with the pearls’ irregular shape becoming symbols of individuality. “They are reminders of the beautiful imperfections and uniqueness of each one of us,” she noted. Fulton’s creative process is guided by the pearl itself, with each design shaped by how she envisions the piece being worn. Butterfly pearl pendant by Cora Sheibani Cora Sheibani “蝴蝶”珍珠吊坠 Renaissance pearl earrings by Cora Sheibani “文艺复兴”珍珠耳环 B-Boy necklace and Nostalgia charm by Boochier Boochier B-Boy系列 项链和“怀旧”吊饰
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