A Publication | 2023 | US$15 泰国珠宝特刊 Thailand Special CHANGING LANDSCAPES, NEW PROSPECTS 持续变化的市场环境 带来崭新的商机 Leaders and innovators 领导者和创新者
CONTENTS 目录 8 The changing landscape of Thailand's jewellery and gemstone sector 泰国宝石及珠宝业持续蜕变 16 KGK Group expands production capabilities in Thailand KGK在泰国扩大生产力 18 Sustainability and excellence at the heart of Pranda's operations Pranda以可持续性为先，追求卓越 20 Sant Enterprises sees rosy prospects in gemstone trade Sant Enterprises窥见宝石业闪亮机遇 22 Regal Jewelry: Shifting business strategies to achieve growth Regal Jewelry: 调整业务策略达至增长 24 MKS Jewelry: Resilience amid adversity MKS Jewelry: 逆境中自强 26 Greenland Ruby explores growth possibilities Greenland Ruby探寻增长机遇 28 Gabrielle Bruni seizes golden opportunities Gabrielle Bruni抓紧黄金机遇 30 Thailand's coloured gem exports up 74% in Jan 2023 2023年1月的泰国彩色宝石出口增长率达到74%
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COVER STORY 8 | Thailand Special 2023 | Bernardette Sto. Domingo 杜明高 and Olivia Quiniquini 程爱莉 | Critical shifts in Thailand’s jewellery and gemstone sector are taking shape. This is how industry players are rising to the challenge. 泰国的宝石及珠宝行业正经历重大的变化，业者游刃其中，灵活应对挑战。 The changing landscape of 泰国宝石及珠宝业持续蜕变 THAILAND’S JEWELLERY AND GEM TRADE
封面故事 泰国珠宝特刊 2023 | 9 Faced with market-moving changes, Thailand is poised to further strengthen one of its hero industries – gemstone and jewellery manufacturing and exports – through continued design innovation and improved competitiveness. According to several industry players, main hurdles to the business are skyrocketing raw material and labour prices, a manpower shortage and macroeconomic uncertainties like inflation and the war in Ukraine. The Thai jewellery and gem sector however remains resilient. Consistently producing exceptional, high-quality designs that meet the needs of an ever-discerning clientele while offering better incentives to labourers are crucial to overcoming such challenges. The industry is also steadily regaining its footing post-pandemic, which can further support long-term growth. According to The Gem and Jewelry Institute of Thailand (Public Organization) or GIT, exports of gem and jewellery products, without gold, rose 30 per cent to reach US$8 billion in 2022. Including gold ornaments, which GIT said are generally viewed as safe and low-risk products, export figures showed a 50 per cent increase to US$15.05 billion. Opportunities are vast in the bridal jewellery and self-purchase and gifting categories. The return of in-person trade fairs and relaxed travel restrictions will also bode well for business. According to GIT, Thailand’s key export products include gold, gold jewellery, polished diamonds, silver jewellery and polished coloured gemstones. GIT Director Sumed Prasongpongchai explained that while gem and jewellery exports remain a strong component of the country’s total trade, a slightly slower first quarter 2023 can be expected, owing to geopolitical and economic factors. A stronger Thai baht against the US dollar could also deter export growth, added the GIT official. As of mid-March 2023, THB had gained around 1.6 per cent to 34.43 per US dollar. Latest GIT figures showed gem and jewellery exports dipped 4.51 per cent year on year to US$732.92 million in January 2023. Prasongpongchai attributed this to a decline in shipments of silver, platinum and costume jewellery, and polished diamonds. This was however offset by a rise in polished coloured gemstone and gold jewellery exports. “Thailand has always been a gem-trading nation, so coloured gems remain our most important export and import product,” he said. “Nonetheless, we anticipate a minor softening in exports this year due to stagflation and ongoing geopolitical issues.” Thailand’s top 10 export markets are the US, India, Hong Kong, Germany, the United Kingdom, Singapore, Switzerland, Belgium, the United Arab Emirates and Japan. Post-pandemic developments Amid continued market recovery, trade buyers at international jewellery fairs held in Hong Kong in March remained cautious and gravitated towards lower-priced items, explained Vatsal Parmani, director of Thailand’s Jewelcraft Co Ltd. The company was able to sell jewellery pieces falling within the US$1,000 to US$2,000 price range at wholesale as opposed to bigger items that cost US$50,000 to US$60,000. The key is to offer the right product mix, revealed Parmani. “There are two different markets right now – buyers with high purchasing power and those looking for price-point items,” the company official said. “We need to offer a wide range of products that they can choose from depending on their budget.” Sumed Prasongpongchai, director of The Gem and Jewelry Institute of Thailand (Public Organization) GIT泰国珠宝学院院长Sumed Prasongpongchai Jewellery manufacturing in Thailand 泰国的珠宝制造产业 (travelview / Shutterstock.com) Ruby 红宝石
COVER STORY 10 | Thailand Special 2023 Jewelcraft produces fine jewellery pieces adorned with diamonds of GH colours and VVS quality. It also uses topquality rubies, sapphires and emeralds in its collections. Thailand’s silver jewellery sector is also returning to strength, with manufacturers adjusting strategies to better cater to key export markets. Triple Tree Co Ltd started receiving client orders again in 2022 after a two-year lull and returned to pre-pandemic levels this year, said its marketing manager Asaree Jarugosol. Working mainly with clients from Europe and Asia, the company produces dainty, lightweight jewellery with coloured gemstones in silver or 10-karat gold. “We adjusted our designs and packages to suit the preferences of our loyal clients. For instance, buyers from Europe now prefer lighter jewellery pieces in gold. As a supplier, it is our duty to help our customers bolster their business in their markets,” Jarugosol said. Yakhunit Co Ltd, which specialises in highly polished silver jewellery with coloured gemstones, is just as committed to stimulate market demand for its clients. Managing director Khajohnkiat Suwanichkul revealed that business rebounded in the second half of 2020 after a threemonth slump. This year, Yakhunit is entertaining more orders from Europe, the US and Australia. “Our designs still carry our signature look of polished gem-set silver jewellery in fluid designs, but our coloured gemstone combinations are more soothing and our designs even more organic,” Suwanichkul explained. “Wholesale price points have been adjusted to start from US$20. This should help our clients get their business back on track.” Taera Jewelry meanwhile is setting its sights on Asia. Established in 2018, it uses French jewellery-making techniques and standards to produce fine silver jewellery pieces with coloured gemstones that are priced from US$80 to US$450 at wholesale. “We work primarily with retailers from Singapore, Malaysia, France, Korea and China. Our goal is to expand our reach in China and the Middle East while exploring opportunities in the US and Europe,” said managing director Ampol Taerapornpanich. New era in jewellery manufacturing Parmani of Jewelcraft said the manufacturing sector in Thailand will likely see a broader shift to finer-quality jewellery, owing to labour shortage and more expensive raw materials. Such challenges are pushing manufacturers further into the higher end of the jewellery market where more affluent customers have more dispensable income. “The new generation of workers are not too keen on joining our business as they want other jobs. And it takes years to master this craft,” noted Parmani. “We need to invest in people and increase labour prices to attract a younger pool of workers.” He added that mass-produced jewellery will have to be manufactured elsewhere like India. Jewelcraft is eyeing to expand its product inventory to include other types of raw materials to give the company more room to revolutionise designs and create exceptional jewellery pieces. Jewelcraft primarily uses rubies, sapphires, emeralds and diamonds in its collections. “We wish to incorporate fancy colour diamonds, higherquality unheated rubies and sapphires, and other gems into our portfolio to be more in line with our vision to cater to the high-end jewellery market,” the company official said. “Buyers are likely to favour geometric jewellery designs.” Samir Patel, director of Ultimate Creation Pvt Ltd, echoed this sentiment, revealing that he had moved the company’s manufacturing facility from Bangkok to India in 2022 due to the pandemic and in order to make better use of their Indiabased resources. Now that the market is improving, Patel is looking for Thailand-based manufacturers that can produce their jewellery before eventually re-establishing its factory in Thailand in 2024. “Majority of our manufacturing business is now in India but by 2024, we will be active both in India and Thailand. We see this as an expansion of our operations,” he added. Ultimate Creation specialises in diamond-studded long necklaces of VS quality and GH colours. Its major markets are Dubai, Kuwait and Bahrain as well as the US. Ruby, sapphire and diamond ring by Jewelcraft Co Ltd Jewelcraft Co Ltd的红 、 蓝宝石配钻石戒指
COVER STORY 12 | Thailand Special 2023 Vivid opportunities Prospects for Thailand’s coloured gemstone sector are bright, particularly in the trade of rubies and sapphires, which headline its gem and jewellery exports. Many gemstone manufacturers managed to keep production going in 2020 due to existing stock but ran into rough shortages in 2021, explained Phuket Khunaprapakorn, managing director of Gemburi Co Ltd. While Bangkok hosts several auctions for rubies and sapphires by Gemfields, Fura Gems and Gem Rock Auctions, among others, the slowdown in rough production during the pandemic, pent-up demand and the return of Chinese buyers to the market this year have resulted in substantial price hikes for good-quality rubies. “Bidding for ruby rough at auctions in 2022 was extremely tight. The upcoming auctions in Bangkok are likely to be as competitive,” said Khunaprapakorn, who is also vice president of the International Colored Gemstone Association (ICA). Stiff competition for rough and polished stones is likely to keep prices up in 2023. Still, buyers have been heading to Bangkok and Thailand’s gemstone centre, Chanthaburi, to directly source for their requirements. Trade shows in the Thai capital since last year have also attracted serious gemstone buyers from around the world, he noted. Demand is especially high for small, calibrated rubies and for single rubies and sapphires of medium to gem quality. Khunaprapakorn said, “Thailand is a leading trading centre for coloured gemstones, particularly for rubies and sapphires. We are the best in acquiring the rough, sorting the material and heating the stones. We are fortunate that miners hold their rough auctions regularly in Bangkok, enabling Thai companies to have ready access to the material. The next step is to improve our ability to produce fine gemstones.” Thai workers are already highly skilled in cutting gemstones but there is always room for improvement, he noted. Government bodies and trade organisations are putting together programmes to develop and enhance workers’ gemstone-cutting expertise to yield better-quality and finer cuts. 面对关键性的市场走向，泰国将通过持续创新设计 和提高竞争力，进一步巩固其核心产业之一—— 宝石和珠宝生产及出口。 根据多位业内人士所称，现今的主要挑战在于原材料价 格和工资飙升、人才短缺，以及通胀和俄乌战争等宏观经济 不确定性。尽管如此，泰国的珠宝和宝石行业仍然保持韧性。 要克服这些挑战，业者必须生产质量稳定的优良设计， 以满足眼光独到的客户需求，同时采取激励措施提升员工 士气。疫后业界也稳步复苏，支持长远发展路向。 GIT泰国珠宝学院院长Sumed Prasongpongchai解释道， 虽然宝石和珠宝出口依然是该国贸易总额的重要构成部 分，但在地缘政治和经济因素的影响下，预计2023年第一季 的数字将会略为放缓。 他亦补充，泰铢兑美元汇率走强也有可能阻碍出口增 长。截至2023年3月中旬，汇率已达到34.43泰铢兑1美元水 平，上升约1.6%。 GIT的最新数据显示，2023年1月的宝石和珠宝出口额同 比下跌4.51%至7.3292亿美元。Prasongpongchai指出原因 在于白银、铂金及人造首饰和已打磨钻石出口下跌，然而部 分跌势被已打磨彩宝和金饰的出口增长抵消。 他说：“泰国向来以宝石贸易为重，因此彩色宝石仍然 是我们最重要的进出口产品。尽管如此，在停滞性通货膨胀 和持续的地缘政治问题影响下，我们预计今年出口将略为 放缓。” 泰国的十大出口市场包括美国、印度、中国香港、德国、 英国、新加坡、瑞士、比利时、阿联酋和日本。 疫后发展状况 泰国Jewelcraft Co Ltd的董事Vatsal Parmani解释说，尽 管市场持续复苏，买家在香港举行的3月份国际珠宝展上仍 然保持谨慎，并倾向采购价格较低的产品。 展会上，该公司介乎1,000到2,000美元之间的批发首 饰大受欢迎，销情胜于50,000到60,000美元的大型首 饰。Parmani透露，提供合适的产品组合极其重要。 他表示：“目前的市场分成两个类别，由购买力高的买家 和寻找某个价格点的买家组成。我们需要提供种类繁多的 产品，让他们可以根据预算进行选择。” Silver jewellery by Yakhunit Co Ltd Yakhunit Co Ltd的银饰 Sapphire 蓝宝石
COVER STORY 14 | Thailand Special 2023 Jewelcraft所生产的高级珠宝首饰，主要镶嵌GH色和VVS 等级钻石。系列中亦有采用顶级红宝石、蓝宝石和祖母绿。 泰国的银饰行业也重振旗鼓。不少制造商正在调整业务 策略，以配合主要出口市场的需求。 Triple Tree Co Ltd的营销经理Asaree Jarugosol表示，该 公司经历两年的沉寂期后，在2022年再次接到客户的订单， 并在今年重返疫前的水平。 该公司主要与欧洲和亚洲的客户合作，生产精致轻巧的 彩宝银饰或10K金饰。 Jarugosol说：“我们调整了产品设计和包装，以迎合忠 实客户的喜好。例如，现在的欧洲买家偏好轻盈的金饰。作 为供应商，我们有责任促进客户的目标市场业务。” Yakhunit Co Ltd专门生产鋥亮耀眼的彩宝银饰， 而且同样协助客户刺激市场需求。执行总监Khajohnkiat Suwanichkul表示，该公司的业务暴跌三个月后，在2020年 下半年出现反弹。 今年，Yakhunit接到更多来自欧洲、美国和澳大利亚的订 单。Suwanichkul解释：“我们仍然以镶嵌宝石的流线型抛光 银饰为重点设计，但彩宝组合呈现更温润的色彩，设计更加 自然流畅。批发价已调整为20美元起，应该可以帮助客户重 回业务正轨。” 创办于2018年的Taera Jewelry则放眼亚洲市场。该公司 沿用法国首饰的制作技术和标准，生产一系列高级彩宝银 饰，批发价为80至450美元。 执行总监Ampol Taerapornpanich称：“本公司的客户主 要是新加坡、马来西亚、法国、韩国和中国的零售商。我们除 了致力扩大在中国和中东的影响力，也同时探索欧美市场 的商机。” 珠宝制造业的新时代 Jewelcraft的Parmani表示，由于劳动力短缺和原材料价 格上升，泰国业界很可能会转型至生产更优秀的珠宝作品。 这些挑战推动制造商深入高端珠宝市场，为拥有更多可支 配收入的富裕客人服务。 “新一代的工人都希望从事其他工作，不太热衷于加入 这个行业。再者，要精通这门手艺也须琢磨多年。”Parmani 指出。“我们必须投资人才并提高待遇，才能吸引年轻员工。” 他补充说，量产首饰转移至印度等地制造是必然的趋势。 Ultimate Creation Pvt Ltd的董事Samir Patel也深表同 意。他透露该公司因为疫情，在2022年将厂房从曼谷迁至印 度，以善用当地的资源。 但随着市道逐渐改善，Patel正重新物色泰国厂家为他们 生产首饰，并计划在2024年重建泰国自家厂房。 他说：“我们现在大部分的制造业务以印度为基地，但到 了2024年，我们将同时活跃于印度和泰国，借此扩展业务。” Ultimate Creation专注生产VS等级GH色钻石长项链。迪 拜、科威特、巴林及美国是其主要市场。 迎接灿烂机遇 泰国彩宝行业豁然开朗，而在宝石和珠宝出口业的主要 范畴——红宝石和蓝宝石方面，前景尤其亮丽。 Gemburi Co Ltd执行总监Phuket Khunaprapakorn解释 说，不少宝石制造商在2020年仍然拥有一定的库存量，因此 能够继续生产，但在2021年便遇到原石短缺的问题。 虽然Gemfields、Fura Gems和Gem Rock等矿商在曼谷 举行了几场红宝石和蓝宝石拍卖会，但疫情期间原石生产 放缓，其后被压抑的需求得以释放，加上今年中国买家重返 市场，导致优质红宝石的价格大幅上涨。 兼任国际有色宝石协会(ICA)副主席的Khunaprapakorn 说道：“红宝石原石在2022年的拍卖会上竞投相当激烈。而 在即将举行的曼谷拍卖会上，预期气氛同样炽热。” 买家对原石和已打磨宝石的激烈竞争，可能会在2023年 继续推高价格。不过，他们亦有前往曼谷和泰国的主要宝石 产地——庄他武里府直接采购。他指出自去年以来，曼谷的 贸易展也吸引了世界各地的专业宝石买家参观选购。 高需求产品包括标准尺寸的小型红宝石，还有中级至宝 石级的单颗红宝石和蓝宝石。 Khunaprapakorn说：“泰国是领先全球的彩色宝石交易 中心，在红、蓝宝石范畴尤其出色。我们是采购原石、分拣以 及加热宝石方面的专家，并庆幸各大矿商定期在曼谷举行 原石拍卖会，令位于泰国的公司能够随时购获这些原材料。 我们下一步将提升生产优质宝石的能力。” 他指出，泰国工人已拥有熟练的宝石切割技巧，但也有 精益求精的空间。政府部门和贸易机构正在制定计划，以培 育和提升工人的专业宝石切割知识，力求推出更优质、更精 良的切割宝石产品。 Coloured gemstones 彩色宝石 Goldsmithing in Thailand 泰国的金工作业
SPOTLIGHT 16 | Thailand Special 2023 Global gemstone and jewellery conglomerate KGK Group is expanding its presence in Thailand, which plays a pivotal role in its operations and growth ambitions. Slated to open in 2023, the group’s second jewellery manufacturing facility in the country will produce jewellery embellished with coloured gemstones and diamonds. The new production centre, located near KGK’s existing jewellery-making facility in Bangkok’s Prawet district, will concentrate on exceptional designs for the midrange to upper segments of the market. Sanjay Kothari, vice chairman of KGK Group, said, “Our current monthly production capability for gemstone and jewellery is 10,000 units. With the new factory in Thailand, our overall production capacity will increase threefold, allowing us to better meet the global market's growing demand for high-quality jewellery featuring coloured gemstones and diamonds.” The group’s sales are expected to reflect the increase in production capacity, Kothari noted. KGK also has a gemstone manufacturing centre in Thailand, giving its jewellery production facilities easy access to raw materials. Production strengths Kothari cited Thailand’s strategic location, worldrenowned craftsmanship, experienced workforce, conducive business environment and favourable government policies as the reasons for expanding the group’s jewellery production facilities in the country. “KGK is proud to be a part of the thriving jewellery and gemstone manufacturing industry in Thailand. As we move forward into 2023, we are confident that the industry will continue to grow and flourish,” he said. To address the post-pandemic shortage of skilled manpower in the jewellery sector, KGK will train workers on international jewellery-making techniques and standards. “We recognise that finding enough skilled workers to meet our production needs can be a challenge, but we are committed to working closely with the Thai government to provide skills development to a significant number of Thailand residents. This will increase employment opportunities within the country and help to address the manpower shortage,” Kothari revealed. Bright future KGK is optimistic about business prospects in 2023 and 2024, particularly as its expanded production capacity in Thailand will enable it to meet growing demand for highquality jewellery with coloured gemstones and diamonds. Kothari said, “We see bright spots in our ability to continue to innovate and develop new products that appeal to our customers. At the same time, we recognise that challenges may arise, such as changes in the global economy and shifting consumer preferences. However, we are confident in our ability to adapt and evolve to meet these challenges head-on.” KGK Group’s jewellery manufacturing facility in Thailand KGK集团在泰国的珠宝生产设施 expands production capabilities in Thailand KGK在泰国扩大生产力 KGK GROUP KGK Group reaffirms Thailand’s leading position as a gem and jewellery manufacturing hub by building a second jewellery production facility and investing in skills development of the local workforce. KGK集团通过建造第二所珠宝生产设施，并投资当地劳动力的技能发展， 重申了泰国作为宝石和珠宝制造中心的领导地位。
市场聚焦 泰国珠宝特刊 2023 | 17 According to the company official, the group will launch new collections with unique designs and first-rate gemstones over the next two years. An ongoing priority is the enhancement of its initiatives pertaining to the sustainable and responsible sourcing of coloured gemstones, which is a core value of its business. Also on its agenda are fruitful collaborations with likeminded companies and individuals such as designers and influencers who share its values and vision. “Overall, we are excited about the possibilities that the future holds and are committed to delivering the best possible products and services to our customers,” Kothari said. 件。消费者对镶嵌彩色宝石和钻石的高品质珠宝首饰的需 求日增，随着泰国的新工厂落成，我们的总体生产能力将达 到目前的三倍，更能满足市场的需求。”Kothari指出，该集团 预计销售额将反映产能的增加。集团在泰国也有一所宝石 生产中心，其珠宝生产设施因而能够轻松获得原材料。 生产优势 Kothari指出，泰国的战略位置、闻名于世的工艺、庞大且 熟练的劳动力，以及有利的营商环境和政府政策，是集团在 该国扩展珠宝生产设施的原因。“能够成为泰国繁荣的珠宝 和宝石制造业的一部分，KGK感到很自豪。进入2023年，我 们相信行业将继续增长和蓬勃发展，”他说。 为了解决珠宝行业在疫情后的熟练劳动力短缺问 题，KGK将为工人提供国际珠宝制作技术和标准的培训。 “我们明白到，招聘足够的熟手技工以满足我们的生产 需求，或许是一项挑战，但我们致力与泰国政府紧密合作， 为大量的泰国居民提供技能发展。这将增加该国的就业机 会，且有助解决人力短缺的问题，”Kothari透露。 未来可期 KGK对2023和2024年的业务前景持乐观态度，特别是在 泰国扩大产能后，集团能够大大满足市场对镶嵌彩色宝石 和钻石的高品质珠宝首饰的殷切需求。 Kothari说：“我们在持续创新和开发新产品方面具有优 势。同时，我们意识到挑战可能会出现，例如全球经济的变 化和消费者偏好的转变。然而，我们对自身的适应力和应变 力充满信心，这些挑战都能迎刃而解。” 据该公司高管称，集团将在未来两年内推出设计独一无 二和镶嵌顶级宝石的新系列。与此同时，加强可持续性和负 责任彩色宝石采购的举措, 是该集团的核心价值，也是他们 的优先任务。集团亦会与志同道合的公司和个人，比如与价 值观和愿景一致的设计师和网红开展富有成效的合作。 “总的来说，我们乐见未来的可能性，并倾尽全力为客 户提供优质的产品和服务，”Kothari说。 环球宝石和珠宝企业KGK集团正在扩大其在泰国 的业务，该计划在集团运营和增长的宏图中发挥 着举足轻重的作用。 KGK集团的第二所珠宝制造厂预计在2023年投产，生产 镶嵌彩色宝石和钻石的珠宝首饰。 该设施位于KGK在曼谷Prawet区的现有生产中心附近， 将专注为中端到高端市场提供卓越的设计。KGK集团副主席 Sanjay Kothari说：“目前，我们的宝石和珠宝的月产能是1万 KGK Group Vice Chairman Sanjay Kothari and Thailand Minister of Labour Suchart Chomklin during their meeting in Hong Kong on the group’s expansion plans in Thailand KGK集团副主席Sanjay Kothari与泰国劳工部长Suchart Chomklin在中国香港会面，讨论KGK在泰国的拓展计划 Diamond and emerald bracelet by KGK Group KGK集团的的祖母綠宝钻石手镯
SPOTLIGHT 18 | Thailand Special 2023 Pranda Group has maintained its leading position in Thailand’s jewellery manufacturing scene, thanks to five decades of trade expertise and creativity combined with a progressive mindset. A testament to the group’s adaptability is stronger business amid global uncertainties. Sales rose 10 per cent year on year in 2022, with the US, Europe, the Middle East, India and Southeast Asia driving the growth. Gold jewellery products moved the fastest, with buyers opting for smaller pieces and subtler designs priced at US$50 and up at wholesale. Decha Nuntana, managing director for marketing of Pranda, said having a diversified customer portfolio is key to mitigating market risks. Sustainability is also a critical component of the group’s business strategy. Pranda has been a member of the Responsible Jewellery Council since 2019. Sustainable and responsible According to Nuntana, majority of Pranda’s clients ask for recycled gold and silver as well as gemstones and diamonds that are ethically and responsibly sourced. The company is also implementing green measures in its premises. Earlier this year, Pranda began installing solar panels to generate power for its factory and offices. Once fully operational, the system can help save 10 per cent to 20 per cent of the company’s energy consumption. Pranda is also in the process of acquiring its ISO 14001 certification on environmental management system. It likewise introduced internal campaigns to foster and encourage sustainable practices among its workforce, including using recyclable materials, planting trees and driving electric vehicles. New consumer Nuntana said consumer preferences are gradually moving towards more substantial and vibrant designs from minimalist styles. As such, manufacturers and designers are incorporating more coloured gemstones and diamonds in their jewellery collections. There is also a significant shift in purchasing behaviour, led by Gen-Z buyers who prefer shopping on digital platforms. “Younger buyers are more knowledgeable and conscientious, opting for products that resonate with their environmental and social advocacies,” revealed Nuntana. “They are curious – whether the material is recycled metal or responsibly mined gems. They want to know the conditions by which a gemstone or jewellery was mined and manufactured.” Moving forward, Pranda will continue to blaze the trail in Thailand’s jewellery trade. The company is aiming to reduce its carbon emission by 30 per cent in 2030 and continue to follow a green roadmap to achieve its sustainability goals. Sustainability and excellence at the heart of Pranda以可持续发展为先，竭诚追求卓越 PRANDA’S operations Armed with decades of business success and an innovative spirit, Pranda Group continues to forge a formidable path in the global jewellery trade. 数十年来，Pranda Group 建立稳如泰山的成功基石，并拥抱创新思维，在国际珠宝行业继续昂首前进。
市场聚焦 泰国珠宝特刊 2023 | 19 While geopolitical and macroeconomic uncertainties remain a threat to significant growth in 2023, the company will soldier on, equipped with 50 years of experience, commitment to quality and continuous innovation. Nuntana commented, “Thailand has always been the coloured gemstone capital of the world. It is also a jewellery manufacturing hub. This mark of excellence is crucial to sustaining growth in the trade. Thailand is currently facing a labour shortage, but the private sector is actively collaborating with the government to address this issue.” 电力。一旦全面运作，发电系统可以帮助该公司节省10%到 20%的能源消耗。 Pranda也在申请ISO 14001环境管理体系认证，并开展 了内部企划，以鼓励员工实践可持续方案，包括使用可回收 物料、植树和驾驶电动汽车。 全新消费者群体 Nuntana表示，消费者喜爱的首饰正从极简风格转向更 大型和鲜艳缤纷的设计。因此，制造商和设计师也在首饰系 列中加入更多彩色宝石和钻石。 消费者的购买行为也产生了重大的转变，并以习惯在线 购物的Z世代为首。 Nuntana透露：“年轻的买家更有见识，态度更认真，所挑 选的产品要与他们对环境和社会所抱持的信念产生共鸣。 他们会关心产品物料是否回收金属或是责任开采宝石。他 们也想了解宝石和首饰在开采和制造时的实际状况。” 放眼未来，Pranda将继续为泰国珠宝行业开拓新路向。 该公司致力在2030年将碳排放量减少30%，并继续遵循发 展蓝图，以实现可持续目标。 地缘政治和宏观经济的不确定性，仍然有可能对2023年 的发展构成威胁，但Pranda凭借50年的丰富经验、对质量的 承诺和持续创新，将继续坚毅不挠，勇往直前。 Nuntana评论道：“泰国一直是环球彩色宝石之都，也是 珠宝生产枢纽。这项卓越成就，对于维持业内增长极其重 要。目前泰国面对劳动力短缺的问题，但私营机构正与政府 积极磋商，合力应对这项挑战。” Pranda Group凭借50年的专业知识与无限创意，坚持 永不停步，在泰国珠宝制造业保持领先地位。 在不确定的全球环境下，该集团的业务仍然欣欣 向荣，足以证明其灵活应变。在欧美、中东、印度和东南亚市 场的推动下，2022年的集团销售额同比增长10%，当中金饰 产品的销情最佳，买家偏向采购批发价50美元或以上、造型 小巧精致的设计。 Pranda市场营销部董事总经理Decha Nuntana表示，拥 有多元化的客户组合是减缓市场风险的关键。此外，可持 续发展也是Pranda业务策略的重要组成部分。自2019年以 来，Pranda一直是责任珠宝业委员会的成员。 可持续和责任方针 Nuntana指出，Pranda的大部分客户都要求采用回收金 银和合乎道德标准的宝石和钻石制作首饰。 集团旗下的厂区也实施了一些绿色环保措施。今年早些 时候，Pranda开始安装太阳能电池板，为厂房和办公室提供 All jewellery pieces by Pranda Group 所有首饰为Pranda Group出品
SPOTLIGHT 20 | Thailand Special 2023 Thailand-based coloured gemstone specialist Sant Enterprises Co Ltd is banking on the market’s enduring fascination for beloved gems to reinforce sales in 2023 despite a challenging environment. This optimism comes on the heels of a robust postlockdown business for the company, according to Anurak Sinchawla, director of Sant Enterprises. The trader specialises in top-quality rubies and sapphires in different cuts, shapes and sizes. These are available in singles, pairs, calibrated stones and layouts. Sant Enterprises observed keen market interest in unheated sapphires, and heated and unheated Mozambique rubies. “In general, customers prefer exceptional, high-quality stones that are produced ethically and under environmentfriendly conditions. A growing number of such consumers has inspired and compelled the industry to focus heavily on responsible sourcing,” revealed Sinchawla. Back on track Sinchawla explained that the widespread lifting of pandemic restrictions alongside the return of physical trade shows were instrumental in reviving the coloured gemstone sector. Clients were once again visiting Sant Enterprises’ office in Bangkok. In return, the company started travelling around the world to touch base with suppliers to replenish its inventory. Post-lockdown, the gem dealer mainly entertained orders for unheated sapphires as customers increasingly favour natural gemstones. Its major markets are the US, Europe and Asia. “Coloured gemstones remain one of the most important export categories for Thailand,” remarked Sinchawla. “The industry has coped well with difficulties and now we are seeing signs of a steady increase in demand.” He attributed the coloured gemstone sector’s agility to swift economic recovery in Thailand coupled with technological innovations and the return of skilled workers to the trade after the pandemic. Anurak Sinchawla, director of Sant Enterprises Co Ltd Sant Enterprises Co Ltd董事Anurak Sinchawla sees rosy prospects in gemstone trade Sant Enterprises窥见宝石业闪亮机遇 SANT ENTERPRISES Business in 2023 is expected to get a boost from sustained demand for high-quality rubies and sapphires amid market uncertainties. 在不确定的市场环境下，优质红宝石及蓝宝 石的需求预料持续强劲，推动2023年业务更上一层楼。
市场聚焦 泰国珠宝特刊 2023 | 21 Sparkling future Sant Enterprises is planning to join more international trade shows moving forward to widen its market reach and attract potential clients. The company also recently digitalised its inventory with the Sant mobile app, so customers can easily access its product offerings anytime, anywhere. The trader is also looking to expand its inventory to include more exceptional rubies and sapphires. “We are excited about our new production of calibrated rubies and sapphires in larger sizes, which we are going to showcase in the upcoming shows,” Sinchawla said. The company official likewise expressed confidence about business prospects in 2023, adding that Sant Enterprises is anticipating robust growth from the emergence of new markets. Tighter supply of premiumquality gemstones, meanwhile, could only further elevate their desirability and drive demand, added Sinchawla. 重返正轨 Sinchawla解释说，各地普遍已解除疫情措施以及复办 实体贸易展，对彩宝行业的复苏起着关键性作用。客户已再 次造访Sant Enterprises位于曼谷的办公室，而该公司的要 员亦开始周游列国，与供应商重新联系并补充库存。 在后封锁时期，由于天然宝石越来越受客户欢迎，该公 司因而处理大量未经加热蓝宝石的订单。欧美和亚洲都是 其主要市场。 “彩色宝石仍然是泰国的主要出口类别之一。” Sinchawla强调。“随着行业成功克服重重困难，现在我们亦 看到需求稳步增长的迹象。” 他认为，泰国经济迅速复苏、技术创新，以及技术工人于 疫后重返宝石行业，都是提升行业灵活性的原因。 闪耀未来 Sant Enterprises正计划参加更多国际贸易展览会，以扩 展市场并吸引潜在客户。最近，该公司还推出 Sant 移动应 用程序，将其库存数字化，让客户可以随时随地查看其产品 讯息。 这家贸易商亦以扩大库存为目标，以纳入更多优质红宝 石和蓝宝石。Sinchawla说：“我们非常期待生产更大型的标 准尺寸红宝石和蓝宝石，并会在即将举行的展会上呈献这 批新产品。” 他也表达了对2023年业务前景的信心，同时指出，Sant Enterprises预计新市场的出现将带来强劲增长。Sinchawla 补充说，优质宝石供应趋于紧张，将进一步提升其吸引力并 推动需求。 扎根泰国的彩宝专家Sant Enterprises Co Ltd预期， 尽管市场环境充满挑战，但由于畅销宝石品种在 市场上热度不减，2023年的销售成绩相信仍能 稳步上扬。 董事Anurak Sinchawla表示，这种乐观的情绪源自该公 司在疫情解封后取得强劲业绩。Sant Enterprises专营不同 切工、形状和尺寸的顶级红宝石和蓝宝石，有单颗、成对、标 准尺寸和套装宝石可供选择。 据Sant Enterprises观察所得，市场钟情于未经加热 的蓝宝石，以及已加热和未经加热的莫桑比克红宝石 。 Sinchawla透露：“一般来说，客户比较热衷于在合乎道德和 环境友好标准下生产的高质量宝石。此类消费者的数目越 来越多，因而启发并驱动行业大力实践负责任采购。” Sapphires and rubies 蓝宝石及红宝石产品 All gemstones from Sant Enterprises Co Ltd 图中所有宝石为Sant Enterprises Co Ltd出品
SPOTLIGHT 22 | Thailand Special 2023 Flexibility and innovation are critical to staying afloat and attaining growth in a highly challenging and competitive environment, according to Natthanisa Phaiboonsuntorn, business development manager of Thailand-based Regal Jewelry Manufacture Co Ltd. The company mainly produces high-quality silver jewellery but it also offers gold and brass jewellery. According to Phaiboonsuntorn, Thailand’s silver jewellery manufacturing and exports sector grew steadily in the beginning of 2022, but demand dipped by the second half mainly due to economic challenges like high inflation. Sustained spikes in inflation translated to lower endconsumer demand for affordable luxury jewellery, which also had a direct impact on jewellery manufacturing at the beginning of this year. Regal Jewelry however is more upbeat about prospects in the second half of 2023, owing to improving market fundamentals, revealed Phaiboonsuntorn. The company counts chains as among its major growth drivers, especially over the past year, primarily driven by trendy chain necklaces and bracelets. “We also saw an increased demand for recycled silver and gold jewellery as more sustainable options for our customers,” she continued. Flexible strategies Phaiboonsuntorn said Regal Jewelry had to tweak some elements of its business strategies to combat challenges like high raw material prices. Communication is key to understanding changes in customer preferences. Depending on what a client needs, Regal Jewelry can manufacture simpler design options, reduce metal weight, or find more affordable substitutes for expensive gemstones. “The overall goal is to find a balance between design and price that will be most satisfying for customers. By being flexible and adaptable, we continue to meet customer needs and succeed in a challenging business environment,” noted Phaiboonsuntorn. Regal Jewelry values creating sustainable products, using ethically and responsibly sourced materials and providing fair remuneration to employees while regularly undergoing audits. The manufacturer is also implementing measures to minimise its environmental impact by installing additional waste management systems. Moving forward, the company is envisioning a sustainable future for the jewellery business. Regal Jewelry is upgrading its facilities to become more energy efficient and using more eco-friendly materials such as recycled packaging. It is also investing heavily in new and advanced jewellery manufacturing tools and machinery. "Over the next two years, we are planning to increase our gold product designs on top of the four collections that we release annually. With the pandemic behind us, we also Shifting business strategies to achieve growth Regal Jewelry: 调整业务策略达至增长 REGAL JEWELRY: Constantly adjusting and upgrading its business approach during challenging times is a critical element of Regal Jewelry’s longevity. 在充满挑战的时期，Regal Jewelry不断调整及 提升业务方针，促进长远成就。
市场聚焦 泰国珠宝特刊 2023 | 23 expect to join more exhibitions and resume business trips around the world,” noted Phaiboonsuntorn. She said Thailand will continue to play a critical role in the global jewellery trade, thanks to unparalleled craftsmanship alongside strong governmental support. The country also has a well-established network of suppliers for raw materials, semi-finished products and machinery. “There is no import and export duty on raw materials, semi-finished products or finished jewellery that are made of silver, gold and brass in Thailand. These government-led benefits ensure that Thailand will remain a major player in the global jewellery manufacturing and exports sector,” explained Phaiboonsuntorn. 弹性策略 Phaiboonsuntorn表示，Regal Jewelry为了应对原材料 价格高企等挑战，故对业务策略作出调整。沟通是了解客 户喜好转变的关键。Regal Jewelry可以根据客户的需求简 化产品设计、减轻金属重量，或寻找更实惠的贵重宝石替 代品。 她指出：“我们的整体目标是在设计和价格之间找到最 令客户满意的平衡点。我们以灵活取胜，致力不断满足客户 的需求，在充满挑战的营商环境中取得成功。” 同样地，Regal Jewelry将可持续发展融入企业故事，除 了采用合乎道德和责任来源准则的物料，也为员工提供合 理薪酬，并定期接受审计。该公司还推行废物管理系统，将 碳足迹减至最低。 Regal Jewelry积极向前迈进，为珠宝行业构想出一个可 持续的未来。他们把生产设施升级至更高节能水平，且使用 循环再造包装等环保物料，同时也大力投资崭新的首饰制 造工具和机械。 Phaiboonsuntorn指出：“在接下来的两年内，我们除了 每年推出四个系列，也计划增加金饰设计。随着疫情过去， 我们也希望参与更多展览会，并重新前往世界各地公干洽 商。” 她认为，多得出品工艺精湛和政府大力支持，泰国将继 续在全球珠宝行业扮演重要角色。此外，该国的原材料、半 成品和机械供应商网络也相当完善。 “金、银及黄铜原材料，以及采用这些金属制作的半成 品或成品首饰，在泰国均免征进出口税。这些由政府主导的 优惠措施，将确保泰国稳守环球珠宝制造及出口行业的领 导者地位。”Phaiboonsuntorn解释说。 泰国珠宝制造商Regal Jewelry Manufacture Co Ltd. 的业务发展经理Natthanisa Phaiboonsuntorn 指出，在充满挑战和竞争的环境中，保持灵活与 创新，对于维持和拓展业务非常重要。 该公司主要制造优质银饰，但也有提供金饰和黄铜首饰 产品。 Phaiboonsuntorn称，泰国的银饰制造和出口行业在 2022年初稳定增长，但由于下半年受到高通胀等经济挑战 拖累，令需求骤跌。通胀持续飙升导致终端消费者对轻奢首 饰的需求降低，也对2023年初的珠宝制造业带来直接影响。 但随着市场基本状况改善，Regal Jewelry对2023年下半 年的前景重拾乐观情绪。 链条产品是推动该公司业务增长的主要类别之一，2022 年的业绩更由时尚的链条项链和手链潮流带动。她补充： “我们还留意到，客户对循环再造银饰和金饰等更可持续 的产品的需求有所上升。” All jewellery pieces by Regal Jewelry Manufacture Co Ltd 所有首饰为Regal Jewelry Manufacture Co Ltd出品
SPOTLIGHT 24 | Thailand Special 2023 Every predicament presents an opportunity. This is the principle that guides MKS Jewelry Chairman Majid Algouneh in running his decades-old jewellery manufacturing enterprise. The company endured a confluence of multiple challenges since 2019 and is aiming to improve its operations through digitalisation and product innovation. “When markets change, strategic positioning and business models must be revisited and adjusted accordingly,” shared Algouneh. “We recognised our top three challenges – supply chain disruptions, shifts in consumer purchasing behaviour and shortage in skilled artisans. We addressed these head-on." MKS has over 50 years of jewellery manufacturing expertise, offering OEM and ODM services. It currently has a workforce of more than 500 at its production facility in Thailand. Over the years, it has also strengthened its supply chain traceability and transparency initiatives. MKS is ISO 9001 certified and a member of the Responsible Jewellery Council. Game changer MKS recorded a 60 per cent growth in sales in 2022 compared with 2020 when the Covid crisis was at its peak. Algouneh attributed the company’s sustained recovery to steady demand from the US, Europe, the Middle East and Japan. Among its most sought-after products are gold and platinum bridal jewellery, alongside other CNC and precision-engineered products. Having its factory in Thailand – a premier gemstone and jewellery manufacturing centre in Asia – is likewise a gleaming advantage. “Thailand is poised to emerge as the first choice of customers looking for quality production and reliable service,” the company official said. New measures, fresh initiatives MKS readjusted its entire value chain and established a two-pronged strategy – to create more value for its customers and to reduce costs. Among the new measures that it implemented were automation and digitalisation as well as enhancement of creative solutions. Changes were also made to speed up product delivery and improve efficiency. Adopting IoT (Internet of Things) initiatives, big data and artificial intelligence meanwhile provided actionable insights and enabled the company to make more informed business decisions, revealed Algouneh. MKS is aiming to further expand its operations over the next three years despite a potentially challenging 2023. Algouneh explained, “Our exceptional growth will be fuelled Resilience amid adversity MKS Jewelry: 逆境中自强 MKS JEWELRY: MKS Jewelry's ingenuity and fortitude lead to glittering new prospects and fresh insights into a post-crisis scenario. MKS Jewelry凭借非凡才能与坚毅力量，于后危机时代发挥透彻的 洞察力，迈向光明前路。 Ring; diamond-studded necklace; diamond and coloured gemstone pendant 戒指作品；钻石项链及钻石彩宝吊坠
市场聚焦 泰国珠宝特刊 2023 | 25 All jewellery pieces by MKS Jewelry 所有首饰为MKS Jewelry出品 by sturdy demand from our key markets, our continued focus on innovation and efficiency and our goal to be among our customers’ top three suppliers.” The modern consumer According to Algouneh, consumers are now looking for jewellery that is simple, versatile, sustainable and reflective of their individual style. “We see more stacking and layering while jewellery pieces that can be mixed and matched are highly favoured. Post-pandemic consumers are once again celebrating life with mood-boosting, colourful jewels. This shift in consumer preference is driven by a growing awareness of sustainability issues and a desire for authenticity and personalisation,” he added. Moving forward, MKS will continue to create sustainable and versatile jewellery collections, explore new production techniques and align usage of modern machinery with traditional craftsmanship. The company is also incorporating more customisable options into its designs and experimenting with new eco-friendly but equally beautiful raw materials, noted Algouneh. 行业中流砥柱 与2020年的疫情高峰期比较，MKS 的 2022 年销售额大 幅增加了60%。Algouneh将复苏趋势归因于欧美、中东和日 本市场呈现持续需求。该公司最受欢迎的产品包括黄金和 铂金婚庆首饰，以及其他数控(CNC)和精密制造产品。 泰国作为亚洲举足轻重的宝石及珠宝制造中心，MKS 选择在该国设立生产设施，无疑是一个闪亮的优势。他补充 道：“泰国已经准备就绪，大有可能成为客户寻求优质产品 和可靠服务的首选目的地。” 新措施，新方向 MKS重新调整了整个价值链，并制定双管齐下的策略， 为客户创造更多价值且减低成本。 一系列新措施包括自动化生产、数字化及提升创意解决 方案，另外，该公司也作出了其他改动，以加快产品交付速 度及提高效率。Algouneh透露，MKS采用物联网(IoT)系统、 大数据和人工智能，从中获得切实可行的洞察见解，使他们 能够作出更明智的商业决策。 尽管2023年可能潜在不少挑战，MKS仍然目标明确，在 未来三年进一步扩展业务。Algouneh解释说：“本公司的发 展动力，源于主要市场的强劲需求、我们对创新和提升效率 的专注，以及致力成为客户头三位供应商的宗旨。” 现代消费者取向 Algouneh称，现今的消费者追求简单、易于搭配、可持续 并能反映个人风格的珠宝首饰。他补充道：“根据我们的观 察，市面上出现了更多层叠混搭的款式。疫后消费者已再次 佩戴色彩缤纷的首饰，借此改善心情和歌颂人生。消费者的 偏好有这方面的转变，是基于对可持续发展的意识不断提 升，还有对真实性和表达个性的渴求。” 展望未来，MKS将继续创造可持续和多功能首饰系列， 探索崭新制造技术，同时将现代机械与传统工艺结合互 补。Algouneh指出，该公司还加入了更多可定制的设计元 素，并尝试采用环保与美观兼备的全新物料。 危中有机，柳暗花明——MKS Jewelry主席Majid Algouneh深明这个道理，并以此带领这家拥有数 十年历史的珠宝制造企业的发展。 自2019年以来，MKS经历过重重挑战，现在希望通过数 字化和产品创新来提升运营水平。 “当市场发生变化时，企业必须重新审视和调整策略 定位和营商模式。”Algouneh分享道。“我们所面对的三大 挑战，包括供应链中断、消费者购买行为转变和熟练工匠短 缺，但所有难题都得以迎刃而解。” MKS拥有超过50年的专业珠宝制造经验，提供代工生产 (OEM)和代工设计(ODM)服务，其泰国厂房拥有超过500名 员工。多年来，该公司逐步巩固供应链溯源和透明度举措， 并已通过ISO 9001认证，也是责任珠宝业委员会的成员。 Jewellery manufacturing at MKS Jewelry's facility in Thailand MKS Jewelry于泰国厂房进行首饰生产
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