MARKET INTELLIGENCE 市场情报 PEARL REPORT | 60 | 2024-2025 Pearls are now valued beyond their physical attributes as origin and impact have become equally important in the value chain. Pearl industry stakeholders can contribute to the rise of a “net positive gem” that benefits people and nature through social and environmental impact measurement and management. 如今，人们对珍珠的评 价已超越其物理属性，因为在价值链中，产地和影响力已变得同等重要。行业持份者可以通过社会和 环境影响力的评估和管理，为“净积极影响的宝石”的崛起默默耕耘，造福人类和大自然。 said Akoya pearl farming revolves around nature resilience and nutrition circulation. “A small agriculture around the pearl farm is a source of inorganic salt, providing good nutrition for farmed seaweeds and oysters. People take them from the sea and consume them while the residue becomes fertiliser for crops. This is the ideal Akoya farming cycle,” explained Kakuda. Complementary value New York-based pearl jewellery brand Roseate, founded by former Tiffany & Co official Pamela Cloud, believes jewellery made of natural materials should be low impact. “There are no beautiful pearls without healthy oysters, and there are no healthy oysters without pristine oceans,” noted Cloud. “Pearl farms can produce pearls indefinitely while generating positive ecological impact.” Cultivating oysters increases fish abundance, supports ecosystem biodiversity, improves the health of coral reefs, enhances water quality, and protects marine ecosystems crucial to combating climate change by absorbing carbon dioxide emissions and the heat they generate or blue carbon. Recognising this vital role, and what clean and healthy oceans mean in pearl production, Roseate donates 20 per cent of sales of specific designs to organisations leading the work in blue carbon, including Conservation International and Billion Oyster Project, revealed Cloud. Jewellery Ethically Minded (JEM), established by Dorothée Contour in Paris in 2010, is also anchored on sustainability. JEM’s collections symbolise humanity and The emergence of the triple bottom line in business – profit, people and planet – underpinned the need to balance economic growth with protecting natural resources. In the jewellery world, various stakeholders have adopted environmental preservation as their vision and advocacy. In 2022, Cartier and Kering launched The Watch & Jewellery Initiative 2030 (WJI), with building climate resilience, preserving resources and fostering inclusiveness as key goals. In June 2024, WJI introduced the Nature Roadmap, which illustrated, among others, businesses’ dependence on nature and impact on biodiversity loss. One gem reconciles the need for humans and nature to coexist: Pearls. While inherently sustainable, cultured pearls cannot grow in deteriorated environments. Regenerative farming Pollution and climate change can be detrimental to cultured pearl farming. In 2017, China took drastic measures to halve its freshwater pearl production due to environmental issues, forcing the industry to explore alternative ways to produce fewer but better-quality, pricier pearls. This resulted in a wider range of freshwater pearls in the market. China implemented large-scale programmes to restore urban waterways, turn mussels into bio extractors and “fed aquaculture” into a potential nature-based solution to repair ecosystems. Meanwhile, Japan is a case study in innovative saltwater pearl farming. George Kakuda, CEO of Kakuda Pearl Co Ltd and president of the Japan Pearl Exporters’ Association, | Pierre Fallourd | Sustainable pearls: Creating value and impact 永续珍珠:创造价值和影响力 Pearl and mother-of-pearl necklace by Vever Vever的珍珠和珍珠贝母项链
RkJQdWJsaXNoZXIy NjAxOTU=