目录 On the Cover 封面 The Philippine golden South Sea pearl radiates opulence and artistry in Jewelmer’s La Mer en Majesté necklace and Les Classiques earrings with diamonds. 菲律宾南洋金珠是Jewelmer’s La Mer en Majesté镶钻项链和Les Classiques镶钻耳 环的主角，散发着华丽的艺术气息 Cover Story Jewelmer's golden legacy 8 封面故事 辉煌金珠传奇 Focus Pearl sector charts a new course towards sustainable growth 14 焦点 珍珠行业的可持续增长 Resiliency in China's pearl sector 22 中国珍珠业坚毅前行 Perspective Robert Wan: Paragon of pearl excellence 28 精辟视野 殿堂级珍珠大师 Digest Historic Scottish freshwater pearl sells for US$124,000 30 市场指标 历史悠久的苏格兰淡水珍珠以124,000美元成交 Design Pearls in the era of change 32 设计 珍珠的变革时代 The hyper-evolution of pearls 36 珍珠之纯美蜕变 Insight Paspaley: Perpetuating excellence in the pearl trade 40 睿智角度 Paspaley延续珍珠行业卓越成就 Alain Boite’s next-gen leaders eye business longevity 42 Alain Boite新一代掌舵人着眼企业长远发展 Rio Pearl: Capitalising on quality and modernisation 44 丽雅珠行以质量与现代化为先 Autore sustains edge in pearl business 48 Autore在珍珠行业保持优势 Edison Pearl navigates market shifts 52 爱迪生珍珠在市场变化中乘风破浪 Spotlight TPAHK highlights the tantalising appeal of Tahitian pearls 54 市场聚焦 全力推广迷人睱目的大溪地珍珠 JPEA cultivating steady growth for Japanese pearls 56 带领日本珍珠行业持续增长 Market Sustainable pearls: Creating value and impact 60 Intelligence 永续珍珠：创造价值和影响力 Modern branding strategies in the pearl industry 62 珍珠行业的现代品牌策略 CONTENTS 市场情报
Every care has been taken to ensure the accuracy of the information in Pearl Report 2024-2025. However, the publication of such information is at the sole discretion of the publisher. The publisher and the editorial team shall not be held responsible or in any way held liable for any errors, omissions or inaccuracies in this publication, or for any consequences arising therefrom. The contents of this publication are protected by copyright and cannot be reproduced, photocopied, transmitted or posted in any form without the prior written consent of the publisher. 本版 公权 司所 已有 尽， 力如 确未 保获 《得 珍本 珠公 特司 刊事 2先0 之2 4 书- 2 面0 2 允5 》许所，刊不登得的以内任容何正方确式无翻误印。、如仿因制错或漏转而载引本致刊任物何任损何失部，份本之公文司字概或不图负片责。。 本 公 司 保 留 刊 登 有 关 资 料 的 一 切 权 利 。 Printed by Asia One Printing Limited,13/F, Asia One Tower, 8 Fung Yip Street, Chai Wan, Hong Kong. 印刷商: 宏亚印务有限公司香港柴湾丰业街8号宏亚大厦13楼 Associate Publisher & Editor-in-Chief Olivia Quiniquini 副出版人及主编 程爱莉 EDITORIAL 编辑部 Project Editor (Pearl Report) Bernardette Sto. Domingo 項目編輯 (珍珠特刊) 杜明高 Assistant Editor Sharon Kwok 助理編輯 郭芷雯 Assistant Digital Product Manager William Yick 助理数码产品经理 易昌耀 ADVERTISING 广告部 Assistant Director Christine Sinn 区域营业总监 冼蕙珠 MARKETING 市場推广部 Senior Marketing & Communications Manager Ronny Pang 高级市场及传讯经理 彭秋影 Assistant Marketing & Communications Manager Monica Kwok 市場及傳訊助理經理 郭君寧 Marketing & Communications Executive Vincent Wong 市场及传讯主任 黄志伟 PRODUCTION 制作部 Production Manager Jennifer So 制作部经理 苏丽娟 Senior Designer Eva Kam 高级设计师 甘铭灵 ADVERTISING REPRESENTATIVES 广告代理 China 中国: 广州代表处 胡淑晶 | Tel 电话: (86) 20 8666 0158 Email 电邮: [email protected] Germany 德国: Liz Dobelmann | Tel 电话: (49) 721 384 1881 Email 电邮: [email protected] Italy 意大利: Mauro Arati | Tel 电话: (39) 02048517853 Email 电邮: [email protected] Japan 日本: Nobuaki Nito | Tel 电话: (81) 3 52961020 Email 电邮: [email protected] Taiwan 台湾: Rita Hung | Tel 电话: (886) 2 2738 3898 Email 电邮: [email protected] Thailand 泰国: Thitima Sriutharawong | Tel 电话: (66) 0 2 036 0500 Ext. 248 Email 电邮: [email protected] US 美国: Bonnie Chan | Tel 电话: (1) 347 906 4693 Email 电邮: [email protected] President & CEO - Asia Margaret Ma Connolly 亚洲主席及行政总裁 马颖 Senior Vice President - Asia David Bondi 亚洲高级副总裁 庞大为 Director of Jewellery Fairs Celine Lau 珠宝展览部总监 刘小雯 Published by Informa Markets 出版 17/F, China Resources Building, 26 Harbour Road, Wanchai, Hong Kong 香港湾仔港湾道26号华润大厦17樓 Email 电邮: [email protected] JewelleryNet.com
PEARL REPORT | 8 | 2024-2025 COVER STORY 封面故事 La Mer en Majesté necklace and Les Classiques earrings with diamonds and golden South Sea pearl centre gems La Mer en Majesté项链和Les Classiques耳环，以南洋金 珠为主石，并缀有钻石 Jewelmer ’s GOLDEN LEGACY 辉煌金珠传奇 | Bernardette Sto. Domingo 杜明高 | Celebrating 45 illustrious years in the pearl trade, Philippines-based Jewelmer is laying the groundwork for future decades of sustained growth and prominence, with a socially conscious leadership guiding its journey. 菲律宾珍珠企业Jewelmer昂然踏进辉煌的45周年，并在卓越领导下履行 社会责任，为未来几十年的持续发展和地位奠定了基础。 It all started with a dream to promote the Philippines as a haven of extraordinary charm through the South Sea pearl. Four and a half decades later, Filipino-French pearl specialist Jewelmer is front and centre of this narrative, pushing to the fore Philippine artistry and the inimitable golden South Sea pearl as a favoured gem in global jewellery circles. Established in 1979, Jewelmer has achieved manifold breakthroughs over the years. A profound milestone was when the brand launched in Tokyo, Japan in 2014, standing alongside renowned luxury houses like Bulgari, Cartier and Chanel, to name a few, at Ginza Mitsukoshi. In 2018, the company took another step forward when it opened its first US boutique at the high fashion district of Worth Avenue in Palm Beach, Florida. Jewelmer’s presence now spans across five continents – a testament to soaring global demand for the Philippine South Sea pearl. Another feather in its cap was an opportunity to design the La Mer en Majesté Crown – the official headpiece bestowed upon winners of the prestigious Miss Universe Philippines pageant. The diamond-studded crown with 17 golden South Sea pearls embodies Jewelmer’s innovative spirit and unparalleled craftsmanship. It was unveiled in 2022. “Ultimately, it is an honour and a privilege to still be able to produce a pearl,” remarked Jewelmer CEO Jacques Christophe Branellec. “With Mother Nature in control of much of the process, pearl harvests are not guaranteed. Amid often unpredictable challenges, Jewelmer shines the spotlight on protecting and conserving natural resources – all-encompassing agendas ingrained in the brand’s actions.”
COVER STORY 封面故事 PEARL REPORT | 9 | 2024-2025
PEARL REPORT | 10 | 2024-2025 COVER STORY 封面故事 Pearl heritage Jewelmer is celebrating its 45th anniversary in the pearl industry in 2024. Ever resilient and progressive, the company is committed to ensuring that the golden pearl retains its status as a paragon of sustainable luxury through inventive designs and environment-friendly practices. The company recently expanded and redesigned five Jewelmer boutiques in the Philippines, with each shop thoughtfully conceptualised and created using locally sourced natural materials. Alongside other retail concepts in development, the brand is also enthusiastic about introducing an exclusive experience catering to its most discerning clients: Maison Jewelmer. Located at the heart of the Philippines’ central business district, the by-appointment-only private lounge is the largest Jewelmer boutique in the world and the first of its kind for the brand. Drawing references from the pristine nature of its pearl farms and the golden South Sea pearl’s inherent allure, the company offers its clients a space that exudes warmth and luxurious comfort. The boutique is adorned with artwork by renowned international artists. Jewelmer is also working on long-term projects and partnerships aimed at raising worldwide awareness of the South Sea pearl. New jewellery designs that revolutionise the pearl’s image while celebrating its reputation as a sustainable gem are also on the cards. Sustainable operations Jewelmer’s pearl farms, nestled in the gleaming waters off Palawan Island, uphold the highest standards of environmental stewardship and conservation, with sustainability at the core of operations. The pearl farms act as “biogenerators” by contributing to the area’s marine biodiversity and biodensity without depleting the surrounding natural resources. “Our processes do not hinder marine life from growing; they help promote it instead,” explained Branellec. “However, environmental changes beyond our control are constant reminders that Mother Nature is at the helm.” Rising water temperatures, for instance, heavily impact baby oysters’ survival rates. Oysters are highly sensitive to shifts in their ecosystem while temperature is critical to their growth and development. “With fewer oysters reaching maturity, our farms faced challenges in maintaining production levels. The scarcity of healthy oysters increases pearl cultivation costs and affects overall yield,” he noted. Some oysters, however, exhibit “phenotypic plasticity” where they adjust their metabolic rates, reproductive timing or feeding behaviour in response to changes in their surroundings. Jewelmer is undertaking extensive research and development in its hatcheries and applying selective breeding methods to nurture strains that are more resilient to temperature fluctuations. It is also studying new ways to enhance survival rates of young oysters. Further raising the profile of Jewelmer as a premier pearl company is its sustainability agenda. Fully funded by the group and its pearl farms, the Save Palawan Seas Foundation established in 2006 is at the heart of Jewelmer’s marine conservation and protection goals. Jewelmer’s pearl farm in Palawan, Philippines 位于菲律宾巴拉望岛的Jewelmer珍珠养殖场 Pamana Brooch with a baroque golden South Sea pearl centre gem, pearls, diamonds and coloured gemstones Pamana胸针，镶嵌 巴洛克南洋金珠为主石，配以珍珠、钻石和彩宝
COVER STORY 封面故事 PEARL REPORT | 11 | 2024-2025 The foundation’s recent projects consist of earlychildhood programmes to spread awareness about climate action among the next generation, marine and fisheries initiatives to educate fisherfolk on environmental protection, and waste management classes to promote changes in human behaviours and actions that lead to pollution. “Within Jewelmer’s main offices and pearl farms, collective efforts are also made to ensure nothing goes to waste,” Branellec further revealed. “Ninety per cent of construction materials, including pieces of furniture and fixtures, are sourced from our recycled trash.” These are turned into Polyboard, a sustainable and waterproof alternative to traditional building materials like plywood. Meanwhile, Styrofoam buoys from pearl farms, which are challenging to recycle, are collected, cleaned and melted into plastic blocks by a recycling company. In addition, used oil from over 150 engines of boats and power generators from the farms are sent to recycling centres that filter and repurpose them into tarmac for roads. Such ethical practices resonate deeply with environmentally conscious consumers, noted Branellec. “Ultimately, Jewelmer remains optimistic about the future and is confident that such initiatives will drive significant growth and success for years to come,” he continued. Onwards to the future The next decades will prove critical to further elevating the Philippine South Sea pearl as a symbol of sustainable splendour. And Jewelmer will continue to be at the forefront of this objective. Through education, Jewelmer hopes to engage with younger generations and instil in them the significance of sustainability and how pearls are products of impactful, long-term eco-friendly practices. Modern technology alongside support from the industry are also crucial to sustaining Jewelmer’s future. “Pearl farming is a delicate balance between production and ecological preservation. With advances being made, embracing innovations like genetic selection for resilient oysters, eco-friendly cultivation techniques and clean energy use is vital to growth,” explained Branellec. “We remain confident that the South Sea pearl’s legacy will keep flourishing and strengthening over time for generations to appreciate and admire.” Golden South Sea pearl 南洋金珠
COVER STORY 封面故事 PEARL REPORT | 12 | 2024-2025 One of the most profound aspects of the South Sea pearl is that it has touched so many lives. From its formation in pristine oceans to the people involved in its cultivation, the communities thriving in the island where it is produced and the clients who acquire the gem as a masterpiece of fine jewellery – one is surrounded by its magic and majesty. — Jacques Christophe Branellec, CEO of Jewelmer
PEARL REPORT | 13 | 2024-2025 COVER STORY 封面故事 金碧辉煌的南洋珠事业，始于一个梦想——Jewelmer旨 在向世人展示菲律宾的超凡之美。45年后，这家由菲 律宾和法国珍珠专家主理的公司，成为了这个故事的显赫 名字，除了将菲国工艺发扬光大，南洋金珠更成为全球珠宝 界最受欢迎的奇珍瑰宝。 Jewelmer成立于1979年，历年来屡创里程碑。2014 年，Jewelmer品牌于东京银座三越正式登场，与宝格丽、卡 地亚和香奈儿等知名奢侈品牌为邻。 到了2018年，Jewelmer在佛罗里达州棕榈滩的高级时 装购物区——沃斯大道开设了美国第一家门店。目前品牌分 店遍布五大洲，证明了世界各地对菲律宾南洋珠的需求不 断上升。 此外，该公司亦有幸为菲律宾环球小姐大赛设计La Mer en Majesté官方后冠，作品于2022年问世。后冠上缀满钻石， 并镶有17颗南洋金珠，体现了Jewelmer的创新精神和匠心 工艺。 “能够生产出一颗完好的珍珠，始终是一种荣耀。” Jewelmer首席执行官Jacques Christophe Branellec说道 。 “大部分的生产过程均由大自然主宰，珍珠收穫的多寡往 往无法保证。在难以预测的挑战下，Jewelmer将重点放在保 育天然资源上，植根于品牌的实践之中。” 宝贵的珍珠遗产 2024年适逢Jewelmer成立45周年的重要时刻。多年来 该公司坚毅前进，致力透过创新设计和环保实践，令南洋金 珠稳守可持续奢侈品的典范。 最近，Jewelmer为五家菲律宾门店进行扩充和重新设 计，每家店均採用当地的天然物料，经精心构思和翻新。 Jewelmer也正在开发更多零售概念，特地推出了Maison Jewelmer，为追求完美的客户呈献尊贵独特的体验。 这家私人珠宝贵宾室位于菲律宾中央商务区，仅限预约， 是全球最大型的Jewelmer精品店兼品牌首家同类型贵宾室。 该公司启发自原始纯淨的珍珠养殖海域和南洋金珠的 迷人气质，为客户打造一个富温暖奢华感的空间。店内的艺 术品更由国际知名艺术家创作。 同时，Jewelmer致力长远规划业务和建立合作伙伴关 系，向环球推广南洋珠产品。全新设计也势将彻底改变珍珠 的形象，同时彰显其可持续珠宝的地位。 生生不息的运营策略 Branellec指出，Jewelmer的珍珠养殖场位于清澈明淨的 巴拉望岛水域，遵循最严谨的环境管理和保育标准，以可持 续发展为理念。 养殖场担当“生态创造系统”的角色，仔细衡量周遭天然资 源的消耗度，为区内的海洋生物多样性和生态密度贡献良多。 “我们的作业不会阻碍海洋生物的生长，反之更能促进 繁衍。”Branellec解释道。“可是，我们无法控制环境的变化， 这点不断提醒我们大自然的力量。” 例如，水温上升会严重影响幼贝的存活率。珍珠贝对其生 态系统的变化非常敏感，而温度是其生长和发育的关键因素。 他指出：“随着育成的珍珠贝数量减少，我们的养殖场就 要面临维持产量的挑战。缺乏健康的珍珠贝会令珍珠养殖 的成本上升，并影响整体收成。” 然而，一些珍珠贝会因应周遭环境的改变而调节新陈代 谢率、繁殖时间或摄食行为，呈现出“表型可塑性”。 Jewelmer正在其孵化场开展广泛的研发工作，培育抵抗 温度波动能力较高的品种。他们也在研究提高幼贝存活率 的新方法。 Jewelmer的可持续发展进程，更进一步提升该公司在 业内的领导形象。2006年成立的“拯救巴拉望海洋基金会”， 由Jewelmer及其珍珠养殖场全力资助，贯彻该集团保护海 洋的决心。 基金会最近的项目包括幼儿教育计划，向下一代宣扬 “气候行动”意识，此外亦推出海洋和渔业计划，向渔民进 行环境保护教育，还有针对改变人类行为和污染行为的废 物管理课程。 “在Jewelmer的主要办公室和珍珠养殖场，我们也共同 努力减少浪费。”Branellec续透露。“在这些处所内90%的建 筑物料(包括家具和固定装置)都来自回收废物。” 这些材料被製成宝丽板(Polyboard)，比传统的胶合板更 合乎可持续原则且更防水。另外，养殖场的泡沫塑胶浮标虽 然较难回收，但也得到一家回收公司收集、清洁并熔化成塑 胶块。 再者，养殖场150多个船艇引擎和发电机的废油，也被运 往回收中心过滤，之后再重新用于铺设柏油路面。 Branellec指出，这种道德实践与具有环保意识的消费者 产生了深刻的共鸣。他补充：“Jewelmer对未来保持乐观，并 相信这些举措在未来几年能推动显著的发展和成就。” 展望未来 对于持续提升南洋珠的可持续发展地位，未来几十年可 谓举足轻重。Jewelmer将继续走在前沿，实现这个远大目标。 Jewelmer希望向年轻一代灌输可持续发展的教育意识， 以及在长期环保实践下，珍珠如何成为具影响力的产物。 现代科技及业界的支持，对于维持Jewelmer的未来发展 也相当重要。 “珍珠养殖是生产和生态保育之间的微妙平衡。科技的 进步促进多项突破性发展出台，如挑选适应力强的珍珠贝 基因、生态友善养殖技术和洁淨能源等，为业务增长打下强 心针。”Branellec解释道。“我们仍然相信，南洋珠的长远发 展将硕果纍纍，且得到世世代代的珍视和欣赏。” All jewellery pieces by Jewelmer 所有首饰和珍珠图片由Jewelmer提供 Jewelmer designed the La Mer en Majesté Crown adorned with diamonds and golden South Sea pearls for the Miss Universe Philippines beauty pageant Jewelmer为菲律宾环球小姐大赛设计 了镶有钻石和南洋金珠的La Mer en Majesté后冠
FOCUS 焦点 PEARL REPORT | 14 | 2024-2025 The pearl industry is witnessing a renaissance of sorts, ushered in by shifting perceptions of the pearl among a more discerning clientele. At the centre of this are progressive business strategies of major companies aimed at ensuring a sustainable future for the coveted gem. 珍珠的形象蜕变革新，令业界掀起 一阵復兴热潮，也吸引了一群追求极致的 顾客。大型珍珠商因而推行渐进式业务策 略，开创珍珠的可持续未来。 The global pearl trade witnessed an exponential increase in business in 2023, bolstered by robust demand from the Asian market. High on buyers’ shopping lists were premium-quality pearls in impeccable shape and lustre alongside smaller-sized pearls, which have risen in popularity among younger consumers. Classic and sophisticated motifs remain extremely sought after but trendier, more unconventional designs are also gaining ground, giving the pearl an edgier appeal. Understanding of and appreciation for pearls are also changing, notably among this younger clientele. This, in turn, could bolster long-term demand as these consumers mature and their purchasing power grows. According to industry players, while demand has been gradually stabilising from the highs of 2023, market appetite for pearls will remain unabated. The sustainable nature of pearls and the process by which they are cultivated and produced also present a strong value proposition. More so today than ever, green practices coupled with innovative business strategies and the pearl’s versatile aura resonate heavily with increasingly perceptive and environment-conscious consumers. Hence, pearl companies are gearing up for a brighter future – one that places the beloved gem at the crux of groundbreaking jewellery designs, technology-driven farming and production, and sustainable development. Market overview According to Jacques Christophe Branellec, CEO of Philippines-based Jewelmer, the year 2023 was favourable for the company, owing to soaring fascination for the golden South Sea pearl. “With rising demand for this rare gem, prices increased as well. We are delighted to observe that wholesale traders are also confident in the market and in the brand’s offerings,” said Branellec. Michael Bracher, executive director of Australia-based pearl specialist Paspaley, noted that steady price increases occurring since 2021 was followed by a correction at the beginning of 2024. Prices have since risen again on the back of a demand upswing. In terms of markets, Asia – China in particular – saw the most significant uptick in demand while Europe and North America are likewise performing well. | Bernardette Sto. Domingo 杜明高 | 珍可珠持行续业增的长 Pearl sector charts a new course towards sustainable growth
FOCUS 焦点 PEARL REPORT | 15 | 2024-2025 “All markets are benefiting from the growing perception of pearls as a fashionable and versatile gem. Chinese demand leans to top-quality classic shapes such as rounds, drops and ovals. As prices for these sought-after categories have risen, interest in the more affordable shapes and qualities has grown in other markets,” explained Bracher. Rio Pearl Director Jonathan Cheng, for his part, attributed high prices to persistent market demand for top-tier pearls. A factor fuelling this trend is that fewer companies are now capable of producing such exceptional gems, noted Cheng. Demand is particularly strong in Southeast Asia where white and golden South Sea pearls are all the rage. Premium-quality pearls in a variety of colours likewise enjoy solid market demand while smaller pearls move the fastest, driven by rising interest among the younger generations. Meanwhile, the Tahitian pearl market is experiencing a period of transition. Cheng explained, “Demand for excellentquality round and near-round Tahitian pearls with vibrant and diverse colours remains steady, but interest in less conventional shapes is declining. Unstable supply and varying export volumes also present challenges. Limited supply of premium pearls could continue.” Pearls have transitioned from a gem perceived as conservative to one that has widespread appeal. They are associated with understated but sophisticated style and are imbued with a sense of purity and romance. - Michael Bracher, executive director of Australia-based Paspaley George Kakuda, president of the Japan Pearl Exporters’ Association (JPEA), also attested to stable demand for pearls, including the coveted Japanese Akoya pearls. Kakuda said buyers are partial to mid-range items of around 3mm to 8mm in size, especially the larger pearls. Technology at the farms Japan is a pioneer in the pearl farming sector, with the founder of pearling giant Mikimoto successfully creating the world’s first cultured pearls in 1893. Fast forward to 2024, Japanese pearl companies continue to lead advances in pearl farming and cultivation. According to Kakuda, the Japanese pearl industry is set to implement in 2024 results of a 10-year biogenetic study to grow stronger, healthier oysters and produce higherquality pearls. Over in Myanmar, Hong Kong-based Rio Pearl is making waves in product diversification by employing modern techniques to produce innovative new pearl variants. In 2023, the company unveiled golden South Sea pearls exhibiting vivid streaks of red, pink and green, which it named Rainbow Gold. Cheng of Rio Pearl said the journey to achieving this revolutionary product took a great deal of research and tests over the course of three years. A naturally occurring variant of golden South Sea pearls, Rainbow Gold would occasionally appear in Rio Pearl’s harvests in miniscule proportions, but eventually, the company was able to produce entire lots of such premiumquality pearls.
FOCUS 焦点 PEARL REPORT | 16 | 2024-2025 In early 2024, Rio Pearl introduced top-quality white South Sea pearls from its farms in the Mergui Archipelagos of Myanmar. This was a first for a country that predominantly produces golden South Sea pearls. Myanmar traditionally grows over 99 per cent golden South Sea pearls, so the emergence of these premium white South Sea pearls, which the company named M White South Sea, in Myanmar is truly revolutionary. A horizon of opportunities The pearl sector is poised for further growth, largely fuelled by solid consumer demand and sustained innovations. New pearl markets, meanwhile, are also a source of optimism. Bracher of Paspaley noted, “On a macro view, we see the emergence of a strong market in India as the biggest market-changing opportunity. Like China, India has a cultural affinity with pearls. India’s economic growth could unleash a wave of new demand to complement the existing markets.” Branellec, for his part, identified several key factors that could drive growth in the loose pearl and pearl jewellery business in the coming years. China, for instance, has displayed growing interest in South Sea pearls. “Our Chinese customers’ preferences are flourishing and maturing, and it is an honour to see their appreciation for the Philippine golden South Sea pearl,” shared Branellec. “The golden pearl symbolises prosperity and good fortune as depicted in Chinese artworks of dragons holding golden pearls in their mouths or claws.” Jewelmer’s sales are also steadily growing in Europe and South America, with notable increases in demand and appreciation for South Sea pearls in countries such as Brazil, specifically among young people. The sustainability narrative is gaining steam in most business categories around the world, but it has always taken precedence in the pearl sector. According to James Brown of Pearls of Australia, pearl farmers rely on Mother Nature, so there is a natural incentive for them to look after the planet and its people. “Provenance is fundamental to who we are and what we do – it is not only the lineage of our pearls, but the cultural and family heritage that travel with them. We are totally committed to full transparency in the pearl value chain through dependable and economical protocols that measure the impact of pearl farming in a social and environmental context,” he noted. Brown is a third-generation pearler involved in Pinctada maxima and Akoya pearl production and connected ecotourism in Australia. The support of industry stakeholders is also indispensable. Tom Moses, executive vice president and chief laboratory officer at the Gemological Institute of America (GIA), said GIA aids pilot projects dedicated to educating and helping the pearling industry measure and manage their social and environmental impact. For instance, the outcome of such studies revealed promising impact mitigation and market development opportunities throughout the pearl value chain. Chunhui Zhou, head of GIA Global Pearl Identification Division, also unveiled ongoing efforts to define the parameters of a scale for “nacre continuity.” The aim is to classify the continuity of the concentric nacre layer deposition around a pearl nucleus. “This scale will provide more specificity and complete our pearl classification system in the near future,” noted Zhou. “Nacre continuity reflects the harmonious relationship between humans and nature needed to produce pearls.” - by Pierre Fallourd Pearls and sustainability Akoya pearl farm in Japan 日本Akoya珍珠养殖场
FOCUS 焦点 PEARL REPORT | 18 | 2024-2025 在亚洲市场的需求带动下，2023年的全球珍珠业务大 幅攀升。买家对形状和光泽近乎完美的优质珍珠爱不 释手，小巧的珍珠也深受年轻人欢迎。经典大气的设计仍然 好评如潮，但消费者也越来越喜爱非传统的时尚设计，令珍 珠首饰更添前卫的气质。 年轻消费者对珍珠的观感已大有改变，而随着年纪渐长 和购买力提升，将有望刺激珍珠的长期需求。 业内人士指出，珍珠需求正从2023年的高峰逐渐回稳， 但需求仍然持续。 珍珠本身的可持续性、养殖和生产过程也展现出其独 有价值。如今，绿色实践与创新的商业策略将珍珠的多样性 极致发挥，引起了观察敏锐和具环保意识的消费者的共鸣。 因此，不少珍珠商都力求创新珠宝设计、进行高科技养 殖和生产及可持续发展，以迎接更光辉的未来。 可持续发展理念广受全球大多数商业范畴採纳，在珍 珠行业中更是举足轻重。Pearls of Australia的James Brown表示，珍珠养殖者仰赖大自然的眷顾，因此，关 顾地球及人类福祉是他们的天职。 他指出：“珍珠的来源是界定本公司身分认同和贡 献的基础，不仅关乎珍珠的世代谱系，也肩负着背后 的文化和家族遗产。我们致力透过可靠且合乎经济的 协定，来衡量珍珠养殖对社会和环境的影响，从而实 现珍珠价值链的彻底透明度。” Brown是家族第三代珍珠养殖者，主要生产大珠 母贝(Pinctada maxima)和海水珠，也是澳大利亚生态 旅游业的一分子。 业内持份者的支持也是不可或缺。GIA美国宝石 研究院执行副总裁兼鉴定所和研究部首席官Tom Moses表示，GIA对业界的试点计画给予资助，借此教 育和协助珍珠产业量度和管理其社会和环境影响。 此类研究的结果，往往有助整个珍珠价值链缓解 对环境的影响和开发新市场。 GIA珍珠鉴定高级经理周春晖也透露，他们也一直 致力于定义“珍珠质连续性”的尺度参数，将珍珠核周 围同心沉积珍珠层的连续性进行分类。 “这将能提供更具体的数据，在不久的将来完善 我们的珍珠分类系统。”周春晖指出。“珍珠层的连续 性反映了人类与大自然之间的和谐关系，对珍珠产业 至关重要。”- Pierre Fallourd报道 珍珠与可持续发展 Tahitian pearls 大溪地珍珠 The company is looking to expand its presence into new markets over the coming months and years, with a primary focus on Southeast Asia. Bracher, meanwhile, zeroed in on mounting interest in pearl jewellery among young consumers, which he described as “expressly encouraging for the medium and long-term outlook.” The pearl’s versatile allure and wearability are making them even more endearing to the younger market. Trendier, more contemporary jewellery designs alongside a compelling sustainability agenda also play a critical role in attracting this new buyer demographic. “To see them value authenticity is an encouraging indicator of the increasing awareness of such issues, and it is uplifting to see that the next generation is leaning towards environment-friendly practices,” added Branellec. South Sea pearls are also striking a chord with male consumers, which present further opportunities for growth and expansion. Amid ongoing market and geopolitical uncertainties, JPEA’s Kakuda said the key to sustaining growth and relevance in the trade is adding value to pearls. “Transparency has become a very important factor for buyers. They want to know if the pearls were produced under sustainable conditions. And we should be prepared to answer these questions as this will make our pearls even more valuable and sought after,” noted Kakuda.
FOCUS 焦点 PEARL REPORT | 20 | 2024-2025 2023年，该公司推出了呈红色、粉色和绿色的“彩虹南洋 金珠”。郑俊鸿指出，该公司经过三年的全面研究和测试，才 正式推出产品。 彩虹金珠是南洋金珠的天然变种，偶尔会以极小的比例 出现在丽雅珠行的收成之中，经一番研发后最终成功进行 量产。 而在2024年初，丽雅珠行从缅甸丹老群岛的养殖场引进 顶级南洋白珠。对于一个主要生产南洋金珠的国家来说，是 史无前例的创举。 传统上，缅甸有99%以上的珍珠均为南洋金珠，因此名 为M White South Sea的南洋白珠堪称革命性产品。 无限机遇 强劲的消费者需求和持续创新，令珍珠行业有望进一步 成长。全新的珍珠市场也激发乐观情绪。 Bracher指出：“从宏观角度来看，强大的新兴印度市场 是最大的发展机遇。与中国一样，印度在文化上与珍珠拥有 深厚的联系。印度的经济增长可能会释放新的需求，以补足 现有市场。” 此外，Branellec也指出，中国市场对南洋珠兴趣渐浓，是 散珠和珍珠首饰发展的关键因素之一。 “我们乐见中国客户的眼光日渐成熟，懂得欣赏菲律宾 南洋金珠之美。”Branellec分享道。“金珠象征繁荣和运气。 中国艺术品中的龙，都会衔着或爪着金光闪闪的圆珠。” Jewelmer在欧洲和南美洲的销售成绩斐然，特别受到巴 西等国的年轻消费者欢迎。 该公司在未来几个月以至几年内，主要计划扩展东南亚 新市场的业务。 同时，Bracher指出年轻人对珍珠的兴趣日增，“对中长 期前景相当有利”。 珍珠的百变魅力和可穿戴性，使其受到年轻消费者的宠 爱。摩登时尚的珠宝设计配合可持续发展进程，对于吸引这 个全新市场也十分重要。 Branellec补充道：“下一代崇尚天然的环保产品，证明可 持续议题的意识不断提升，令人感到鼓舞。” 南洋珠也吸引了不少男性消费者，进一步创造发展机会。 在市场和地缘政治持续不稳定的情况下，JPEA的觉田 表示，提升珍珠的价值是维持增长和市场相关性的关键。 他说：“产品透明度以及珍珠是否在可持续条件下生产， 对于买家来说相当重要。我们应该就此作好准备，使我们的 珍珠变得更有价值，更受顾客青睐。” 市场概况 菲律宾珍珠专家Jewelmer首席执行官Jacques Christophe Branellec表示，南洋金珠在市场上热度日增，更 在2023年达到新高峯。 Branellec称：“随着这种稀有珍珠的需求不断增加，价格 也随之上涨。我们乐见批发贸易商对市场和本品牌的产品 充满信心。” 澳大利亚珍珠供应商Paspaley行政总监Michael Bracher 表示，珍珠价格在2021年起稳定上扬，在2024年初出现调 整。此后需求一再增加，令价格再度飙升。 就市场而言，亚洲的需求增长最为显著，尤其是中国，欧 洲和北美市场也表现不俗。 Bracher解释道：“珍珠日渐被视为一种风格多样的时尚 宝石，令所有市场受惠。中国消费者偏爱圆形、水滴形和椭 圆形等经典优质珍珠。但由于价格高昂，其他市场对价格实 惠的形状和品质类别更感兴趣。” 丽雅珠行总经理郑俊鸿表示顶级珍珠需求持续，再者， 有能力生产优质珍珠的公司日趋减少，令价格居高不下。 东南亚对南洋白珠和金珠等品种需求殷切。各种颜色的 优质珍珠同样获得稳定的需求，而小型珍珠则受到年轻一 代的追捧，销情甚佳。 与此同时，大溪地珍珠市场正处于转型期。郑俊鸿解释 道：“颜色鲜艳且多样化的圆形和近圆形大溪地珠需求稳定， 但非传统形状的热度正在消退。供应不稳定和出口量的变化 也带来了一定挑战。优质珍珠可能会继续有限度供应。” 日本真珠输出组合(JPEA)理事长觉田让治也证实了市 场对珍珠呈现稳定需求，当中包括日本Akoya珍珠。觉田表 示，买家通常物色约3至8毫米的中档次珍珠，较大型的品种 尤其吃香。 养殖技术 日本是珍珠养殖领域的先驱。早在1893年，珍珠巨头 Mikimoto的创始人已成功培育出世界上第一批养珠。时至 2024年，日本继续在珍珠养殖方面领导群雄。 觉田透露，日本珍珠产业于2024年起实践一项十年生物 遗传学研究的成果，以培育更强壮、更健康的珍珠贝，从而 生产更上乘的珍珠。 香港地区的丽雅珠行也透过现代技术，在缅甸成功实现 产品多元化。 White South Sea pearls 南洋白珠
FOCUS 焦点 PEARL REPORT | 22 | 2024-2025 Akoya pearl necklace by Y&M Pearls 缘美真珠的日本Akoya珍珠项链 China has witnessed extraordinarily strong demand for loose pearls and pearl jewellery amid ongoing economic challenges. To sustain this momentum, the pearl industry is banking on advancements in cultivation technology and product upgrades while exploring opportunities in overseas markets. 在经济持续充满挑战的情况下，中国对散装珍珠 和珍珠首饰的需求显得份外殷切。珍珠业通过养殖技术的进步、产品升级和探索海外市场的机遇，保 持良好的发展势头。 Following a boom in 2023, China’s pearl sector experienced a slowdown in the first half of 2024 due to waning market interest. Rising demand for higherquality pearls, however, offers a silver lining. China-based pearl companies attributed this sluggishness to ongoing global economic headwinds, which inevitably impacted the Chinese pearl market. Buyers are also taking a more cautious stance as pearls become more expensive due to stronger demand. “The pearl market performed exceptionally well in 2023 until nearly the end of the year. The market goes through cycles of ups and downs, and an eventual cooldown is natural,” said Shen Ronggen, general manager of Zhejiang OSM Pearls & Jewelry Co Ltd, which is a major pearl enterprise in China. According to Shen, business was down since the fourth quarter of 2023. Pearl jewellery sales also declined during the Mother’s Day holiday in May 2024 while prices of loose pearls softened compared to peaks reached in 2023. “Bear in mind that the pearl market has grown significantly, gaining wider recognition in recent years. Despite slower business, we are still in a relatively favourable position. The business will not fall to extremely low levels,” he noted. Solid demand Retail sales of pearl jewellery in China increased by approximately 46 per cent to RMB 35 billion (around US$4.85 billion) in 2023, accounting for 4 per cent of the country’s total jewellery sales, revealed data from the 2023 China Jewellery Industry Development Report by the Gems & Jewelry Trade Association of China. The so-called “celebrity effect” and the livestreaming phenomenon continued to fuel consumers’ desire for pearls, according to Ye XiaoBo, chairman of pearl jewellery retailer Y&M Pearls. | Sharon Kwok 郭芷雯 | 中国珍珠业坚毅前行 Resiliency in China’s pearl sector
FOCUS 焦点 PEARL REPORT | 23 | 2024-2025 Ring by Zhejiang Ming Huang Jewellery Co Ltd with the company’s branded ‘Bai sheng li’ white freshwater pearl 浙江名皇珠宝有限公司的戒指，镶有 该公司生产的“白笙丽”白色淡水珠 “Sales remain stable in 2024, with 80 per cent of overall sales being generated from livestreaming,” Ye explained. “There is solid demand for pearls. Consumers learn about pearls through social media platforms and then make purchases through livestreaming sessions, which is convenient for them.” The market witnessed steady demand for pearls in all categories, particularly freshwater pearls. According to Zhou DingXiang, chairman of freshwater pearl specialist Zhejiang Ming Huang Jewellery Co Ltd, the significant growth in domestic demand for freshwater pearls can be attributed to vast improvements in the quality of freshwater pearls sold in the China market as well as the higher prices of saltwater pearls, which are a deterrent to buyers. “Quality attributes like the lustre and roundness of our fine freshwater pearls are comparable to those of saltwater pearls, but at a much more affordable price point. This makes freshwater pearls a preferred choice among valueconscious consumers. So-called baby pearls of 3mm to 4mm in size are favoured by younger buyers,” shared Zhou. Ming Huang Jewellery has over 30 years of experience in freshwater pearl cultivation and manufacturing as well as wholesaling and retailing a wide range of loose pearls and commercial- to fine-quality pearl jewellery. Pearl technology The quality of freshwater pearls in China has significantly improved over the years, thanks to advancements in cultivation methods and pearl farming. According to Zhou of Ming Huang Jewellery, an increasing number of freshwater pearls cultivated in China are now nucleated, which occurs when a pearl nucleus is implanted inside a pearl oyster to stimulate nacre secretion. By comparison, non-nucleated pearls are entirely composed of nacre, minus bead implants. Nucleated pearls, like saltwater pearls, tend to be rounder, whiter and more lustrous. Ming Huang Jewellery leverages innovative beading techniques to cultivate high-quality nucleated freshwater pearl varieties such as “Bai sheng li” and “Zhi ling long,” to name a few. Zhou said his company is now capable of producing 5mm to 8mm white freshwater pearls, called Bai sheng li pearls, without artificial colour enhancement. Zhi ling long pearls, meanwhile, come in a wide colour spectrum – from light to rich purple, and even metallic hues. “It is known as the domestic version of Tahitian pearls,” said Zhou. Premium pieces Pearl companies also pointed to a shift towards meticulously crafted premium products in more sophisticated designs, driven by younger consumers with a higher purchasing power. “Consumers today have a deeper understanding of pearls and heightened appreciation of the artistry behind gemstone setting. They gravitate towards high-quality pieces that showcase the unique allure of these gems,” said Wang Lin, owner of Beijing Lihui Jewelry Co Ltd. Listed among the top 10 high-end bespoke pearl jewellery companies on Taobao, Lihui Jewelry Co Ltd’s jewellery brand Oldking Jewels specialises in fine pearl jewellery designs. Meanwhile, Tian Renyu, founder and designer of Heidi Jewelry, noted that consumers now prioritise the quality of pearls. “To cater to this demand, we launched our premium freshwater pearl jewellery collection, Dreamy Rainbow, which showcases the natural lustre of pearls in classic and simple designs,” shared Renyu. Ye of Y&M Pearls and Zhou of Ming Huang Jewellery also observed a significant demand for Tahitian pearl
FOCUS 焦点 PEARL REPORT | 24 | 2024-2025 jewellery in the Chinese market, buoyed by Tahitian pearls’ extensive range of colours, versatility and trendy appeal – attributes that are more in line with the preferences of more discerning consumers. Seeking growth Zhuji, located in Zhejiang Province, accounts for 70 per cent of total freshwater pearl production worldwide. In 2023, annual sales of pearls in Zhuji exceeded RMB 50 billion (around US$6.89 billion), which represented 80 per cent of China’s total pearl sales, government data showed. Industry stakeholders participating in the 2024 Shanxiahu World Pearl Congress Roundtable Conference in Zhuji on May 21, 2024, noted that China’s freshwater pearl industry is poised for further growth, supported by innovative sales models such as livestreaming, digitalisation of supply chains and pearl farming innovations. He Tieyuan, secretary general of Professional Association of Pearls Zhejiang, said Zhuji aims to further strengthen its position as the “Pearl Capital of China,” encompassing freshwater pearl cultivation, processing, manufacturing, wholesale, research and development, and retail sales. “To further propel the growth of the pearl industry in China, it is crucial to adopt advanced scientific pearl farming methods. This includes utilising genetic breeding technology to improve pearl quality, particularly colour and lustre. Additionally, the industry must improve processing techniques and introduce innovative designs to add value to pearls. Furthermore, improvements in e-commerce and livestreaming will boost sales,” said He. Ruan Tiejun, chairman of Zhejiang Ruan’s Pearl Holding Co Ltd, said leading e-commerce platforms such as Taobao, Alibaba and Douyin have established their livestreaming bases in the China Pearls and Jewellery International City in Zhuji. “These digital channels have introduced various campaigns to promote pearl jewellery with encouraging sales figures,” he added. China’s freshwater pearl sector must also expand to international markets, which present dazzling business opportunities, according to He. Two categories of freshwater pearls were standouts – small-sized pearls and irregularshaped pearls. Irregular-shaped pearls cater to Western buyers’ demand for unique materials. To bolster the global visibility and international presence of Chinese freshwater pearls, Professional Association of Pearls Zhejiang collaborated with jewellery exhibition organisers to arrange Chinese pearl companies’ participation in local and overseas trade shows. In 2024, they covered exhibitions across Hong Kong, Kunming, Beijing, Shenzhen and Japan, shared He. 中国的珍珠业在经历了2023年的高峰后，在2024年上 半年因市场需求减弱而整体增长放缓。然而，消费者 对高品质珍珠的需求日益上升，为行业前景带来了曙光。 中国珍珠公司指，内地珍珠市场难免受全球经济逆风的 影响。由于去年需求旺盛，珍珠价格高企，买家在2024年的 态度转趋谨慎。 浙江欧诗漫集团珠宝有限公司总经理沈荣根表示：“珍 珠市场在去年是特别的火爆，升势一直持续到接近年底。市 场起跌是一个循环，那肯定是会降温的。＂ 沈荣根指自2023年第四季度以来，销售额有所下降。及 后，在2024年5月母亲节期间，珍珠首饰的销量下跌；而散装 珍珠的价格与去年达到的峰值相比则已回软。 沈荣根续说：“始终珍珠市场在近年已经成长起来了，并 获得了广泛的认可，就算生意是降温也不会到太糟糕的地 步，所谓‘瘦死的骆驼比马大’。” 需求稳健 中国珠宝玉石首饰行业协会发布《2023年中国珠宝行业 发展报告》的数据显示，中国珍珠首饰零售额在2023年上 升约46%至350亿元人民币（约48.5亿美元），占全国珠 宝首饰整体销售额的4%。 珍珠珠宝首饰公司缘美真珠董事长叶笑波表 示，明星效应和直播销售持续带动消费者对珍 珠的渴求。 叶笑波说：“我们的销售额在2024年保 持平稳，整体销售额约80%来自直播。人 们对珍珠有一定的需求。消费者通过社 交媒体平台了解珍珠，然后通过直 播购买，这对他们来说很方便。” 各类珍珠均有市场，特别 是淡水珍珠。淡水珍珠专家 浙江名皇珠宝有限公司 董事长周鼎项表示，内 地市场对淡水珍珠 的需求大幅飙升， 主要因为中国 Tahitian pearl jewellery by Beijing Lihui Jewelry Co Ltd 北京骊辉珠宝有限公司的大溪地珠首饰
FOCUS 焦点 PEARL REPORT | 26 | 2024-2025 作为淘宝十大高端珠宝定制店铺之一，北京骊辉珠宝有 限公司旗下珠宝品牌Oldking Jewels，专门为客户提供高级 珍珠珠宝的原创设计。 与此同时，海蒂珠宝创始人兼设计师田仁玉指出，消费 者现在更看重珍珠的质量。为了迎合这一需求，我们推出了 高级淡水珍珠首饰系列——梦幻彩虹，以经典简约的设计展 现珍珠的天然光泽。” 缘美真珠的叶笑波和名皇珠宝的周鼎项也观察到，中国 市场对大溪地珍珠的强劲需求，大溪地珍珠的丰富颜色、多 样性和时尚风格很符合现今消费者的审美眼光。 寻求增长 位于浙江省的诸暨市珍珠产量占全球淡水珍珠总产量 的70%。政府数据显示，在2023年，诸暨的珍珠年销售额超过 500亿元人民币(约68.9亿美元)，占中国珍珠销售总额的80%。 参加了于5月21日举行的2024山下湖世界珍珠大会圆 桌会议的业内相关人士表示，通过创新销售模式如直播、供 应链数字化和珍珠养殖创新，中国淡水珍珠产业蓬勃，有望 实现增长。 浙江省珍珠行业协会秘书长何铁元表示，诸暨的目标是 加强其作为“中国珍珠之都”的地位，当中涵盖珍珠养殖、加 工、制造、批发、研发和零售。 何铁元说：“要进一步推动中国珍珠产业的发展，采用先 进的科学养珠方法至关重要。这包括利用基因育种技术提 高珍珠品质，特别是颜色和光泽度。此外，行业必须提升加 工技术和引入创新的设计，为珍珠增加附加价值。同时，扩 大电商和直播渠道以促进销售。＂ 浙江阮仕珍珠股份有限公司董事长阮铁军分享道∶“淘 宝、阿里巴巴、抖音等知名电商在诸暨国际商贸城建立了直 播基地。这些平台推出了各种推广珍珠首饰的活动，销售额 令人鼓舞。” 何铁元表示，中国的淡水珍珠行业必须扩展至国际市 场，因为这蕴藏着大有可为的商机。有两类淡水珍珠脱颖而 出，即小尺寸珍珠和不规则形状珍珠。特别是不规则形状的 珍珠迎合了西方买家对独特材料的需求。 为了提高中国淡水珍珠的全球知名度，走向世界，浙江 省珍珠行业协会与珠宝展主办方合作，安排中国珍珠企业 参加本地和海外珠宝展。何铁元透露在2024年，他们参展的 地点包括香港地区、昆明、北京、深圳，还有日本。 的淡水珍珠品质大大提升，加上海水珠的价格一直攀升，令 买家望而却步。 周鼎项说：“我们的优质淡水珍珠的皮光和圆度等特质 可媲美海水珠，但价格却更为实惠，令淡水珍珠成为注重性 价比的消费者的首选。3至4毫米大小的小珍珠深受年轻买 家的青睐。” 名皇珠宝专营淡水珍珠逾30年，业务涵盖养殖、制造、批 发及零售各种散装珍珠、商业至高级珍珠首饰。 养珠技术 随着珍珠养殖技术的进步，中国淡水珍珠的品质在过去 几年有显著的改进。 名皇珠宝的周鼎项表示，现在中国养殖的淡水珍珠中， 越来越多有核珍珠，即在珍珠蚌体内植入珠核，以刺激珍珠 质分泌。 相比之下，无核珍珠完全由珍珠质构成，没有植入珠核。 有核淡水珍珠如海水珠般，往往更圆、更白、更有光泽。 名皇珠宝利用创新的插核技术，培育出优质的有核淡水 珍珠品种，如“白笙丽”和“紫玲珑”等。 周鼎项指名皇珠宝能够生产5至8毫米的白色淡水珍珠 “白笙丽”，无需人工润色。而紫玲珑色阶丰富，从浅紫色到 深紫色，甚至金属镜面效果，他指“紫玲珑被誉为国产版大 溪地珍珠”。 高级产品 中国珍珠公司透露，珍珠珠宝首饰的消费主力群有年轻 化的趋势，他们的购买力较高，带动市场趋向以精湛工艺打 造、设计更精致的高品质产品。 北京骊辉珠宝有限公司东家王琳说：“现今的消费者对 珍珠有更深入的了解，而且更重视镶嵌的工艺。他们倾向购 买能够展示这些珍珠独特魅力的首饰。” Jewellery set by Zhejiang Ming Huang Jewellery Co Ltd with the company’s branded ‘Zhi ling long’ freshwater pearl 浙江名皇珠宝有限公司的“紫玲珑”淡水珠首饰套装 Australian white South Sea pearl jewellery by Beijing Lihui Jewelry Co Ltd 北京骊辉珠宝有限公司的澳大利亚南洋白珠首饰
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