SHOWCASE 精品荟萃 PEARL REPORT | 28 | 2023-2024 珍珠生产商和批发商 比以往更注重设计水 平，将珍珠首饰重新塑造成时 尚精致且人人趋之若鹜的饰 品。他们更与创意横溢的设计师 携手合作，呈献风格前卫的珍珠 首饰作品。 此外，越来越多男性喜爱佩戴串 珠链条等配饰，令珍珠成为带动性别 流动风潮的重要元素，教人惊喜万分。 珍珠串链作为当今的时尚单品，精 髓在于混合不同颜色和品种，因此所有 类型的珍珠均呈现强劲的需求，特别是优 质南洋珠和海水珠。 巴黎珍珠专家 Alain Boite 的负责人 Pierre Boite 表示，多色珍珠串链正大行其道， 但白色珍珠的需求也不遑多让，尤其是海水 珠。此外，具有迷人色调的大型淡水珍珠，也成为 顶级设计师之选。 将珍珠与彩宝混搭或配以璀璨的钻石，火热趋 势仍然持续，许多品牌因而取得巨大成功。 与此同时，珍珠母贝、切割和雕刻珍珠，甚至是在 印度尼西亚养殖的心形金色南洋珠，都令首饰设计更 丰富多彩。 崭新科技发展 如今，珍珠也被赋予一个全新角色。美国加州珠宝公司 Galatea Jewelry 的 Chi Huynh 将传统工艺与崭新技术结 合，把首饰设计打造成“爱、浪漫与承诺的数字传播媒介”。 全新“珍珠情书”系列采用嵌入近场通信 (NFC) 芯片的 珍珠，让佩戴者可以通过 Galatea 应用程序从智能手机导出 图像或视频短片。 Chi 以雕刻精细的珍珠和艺术雕塑而闻名，並在过去15 年发展出“珍珠互动”理念。NFC 技术正是这方面的惊人研 发成果 。他在 10.5 至 13 毫米的水滴形淡水珠上挖出一个 凹槽，将芯片嵌入其中，并覆上树脂涂层作为润饰和保护。 饰品内的空间也足以容纳手写信息或实体定情信物，如一 缕头发、代表爱意的香水或精油。 The mother-of-pearl shell is also becoming a distinctive aesthetic element and innovative must-have, thanks to skillful workmanship. Georgacopoulos, for instance, designed an award-winning cuff adorned with peacock mother-of-pearl, recycled 18-karat yellow gold and old minecut diamonds. She said, “My intention is to raise awareness around the material through craftsmanship. There is a lot of potential for growth since customers are becoming increasingly interested in special designs that highlight their unique sense of taste.” Dutch sculptor and jewellery designer Bibi van der Velden, who now lives by the sea in Portugal, draws inspiration from nature and the ocean to create mesmerising wearable art pieces. She explained, “The ocean is not just a huge part of my daily life – for me, it is a means to regenerate, a source of cleansing and connecting to an equilibrium with nature.” In her latest collection, Waves, pearls play the lead role that brings her worlds together in sculptural jewellery inspired by the sea and natural pearls. Pearls for men As a gender-fluid ethos enters the jewellery world, more men are turning to pearls as accessories. The surprise is that even male teenagers, particularly in the United Kingdom, wear pearl strands. The trend was kickstarted by fans of British singer and actor Harry Styles who dons pearls all the time as a “symbol of wisdom and good luck.” Jewelmer’s Branellec is enthused by this new potential market segment, adding that pearls have become unique menswear accessories and a bold fashion statement. The intricate pearl carvings of Galatea also appeals to men. Its King Pearl Collection features birds, animals and mythical beasts, which are favoured by men, said Chi. Georgacopoulos, for her part, considers her collections as gender fluid and sees both men and women as potential customers. “There is no need to pigeonhole customers anymore, and I see people increasingly looking for individual designs and limited editions that reflect their own style. This is indeed the biggest trend and the future of jewellery demand,” she noted. Ring in 18-karat rose gold with Japanese blue Akoya pearls and a 7.33-carat aquamarine by Assael Inc Assael Inc 的 18K 玫瑰金戒指，镶嵌蓝色日本海水珠，以及 一颗 7.33 克拉的海蓝宝石 Peacock mother-of-pearl cuff with old mine-cut diamonds and recycled 18-karat gold by Melanie Georgacopoulos Melanie Georgacopoulos 的孔雀珍珠母贝手镯，配以老矿式切割 钻石和再生 18K金制作而成
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