SHOWCASE 精品荟萃 PEARL REPORT | 27 | 2023-2024 New technology And now, pearls are taking on a new role. Chi Huynh of California-based Galatea Jewelry has combined traditional techniques with new technology to frame his designs as “digital communicators of love, romance and commitment.” His new collection, Message in a Pearl, features pearls embedded with a nearfield communication (NFC) chip that allows the wearer to export images or video clips from a smart phone via the Galatea app. Chi, known for his intricately carved pearls and artistic sculptural pieces, has been developing the idea of “pearl communication” for the past 15 years. NFC technology is an exciting development on this front. He creates a cavity in 10.5mm to 13mm drop-shaped freshwater pearls and inserts the chip within, coating it with resin to conceal and protect it. The space is large enough to hold handwritten messages or physical love tokens – a strand of hair, a love perfume or essential oil. “I wanted to combine the technology with a traditional idea, hence an urn or vase as the container with a decorated screwed-on lid and handles for the necklace chain,” shared Chi. “It provides endless possibilities to communicate in a relationship – love, passion, devotion, friendship – offering opportunities for both digital and traditional connection.” Innovation and artistry The design push is for fashion-forward styles that appeal to younger clients. Jewelmer in the Philippines focuses on versatile and wearable designs that attract younger buyers, shared CEO Jacques Christophe Branellec. At the same time, Jewelmer promotes the importance of conservation and education to ensure that natural habitats of pearl oysters are protected. Branellec added, “It is inspiring to see younger generations also leaning more towards environmentally conscious acquisitions.” Meanwhile, designers such as London-based Melanie Georgacopoulos uses innovation and artistry to produce evocative designs to entice a wider spectrum of pearl lovers. “Emphasis is always on the design aspect, and I find myself more and more drawn to various pearl colours and sizes, mixing different kinds of pearls together and bringing in gemstones for added layers of colour and meaning,” she revealed. A decade ago, Tasaki, one of Japan’s oldest pearl houses, partnered with Georgacopoulos to create the M/G TASAKI brand of modern pearl jewellery. The brand is now extremely successful, especially in Japan. Georgacopoulos remarked, “This is a massive compliment, given the discerning and sophisticated clientele there. We continue to work together to push design and technical boundaries and have sold over 15,000 pieces so far.” Similarly, pearl specialist Assael Inc in New York has partnered with designer Sean Gilson to produce dimensional and chic designs alongside new classics. “It is our bestselling collection,” disclosed Peggy Grosz, senior vice president at Assael. Pearls becoming an important part of the gem palette for designers, manufacturers and brands is a welcome development. Grosz added, “Pearls are mainstream. Whether in classic, fashionable or innovative designs, pearls have a firm foothold.” Assael’s design philosophy highlights the pearl, precluding the use of ornate forms and embellishments that would take the focus away from the pearl. “This includes accentuating colour tones via pairings with gemstones in our Colors Collection, one of our best-selling categories,” noted Grosz. Yoko London mixes pearls with gemstones, too. Its recent Kaleidoscope Collection combines coloured gemstones with high-quality, lustrous pearls. “Each piece in the collection is as mesmeric as the view in a kaleidoscope,” shared Yoko London’s Isabella Daniels. “The new pieces in this collection use a deft blend of coloured gemstones, providing bursts of colour among the pearls. These include diamond, sapphire, tsavorite garnet, agate and amethyst as well as mother-of-pearl.” Bibi van der Velden’s ‘Big Splash’ ring with pearls and diamonds Bibi van der Velden 的 “Big Splash”珍珠钻石戒指
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