PEARL A Publication US$20 JEWELMER: VERSATILE LUXURY 百变奢华 China’s thriving pearl sector 中国珍珠业蓬勃发展 珍 珠 特 刊 珍珠特刊 REPORT 2023-2024
目录 On the Cover 封面 Take a dive into Jewelmer’s lustrous world of golden South Sea pearls. Featured here are some of Jewelmer’s iconic creations: Guimard necklace, Sequins earrings, Allure bracelet and Les Classiques bracelet and ring. Jewelmer 一系列标志性首饰︰ Guimard项链、Sequins耳环、Allure手链、 Les Classiques手链和戒指，引领你潜入 Jewelmer璀璨的南洋金珠世界。 Cover Story Jewelmer: Versatile luxury 8 封面故事 百变奢华 Focus Pearl sector champions business and design innovation 14 焦点 珍珠行业倡导业务和设计创新 Empowering pearl farmers for a sustainable future 20 赋能珍珠养殖者掌握可持续未来 Insight The perpetual allure of pink pearls 22 睿智角度 粉色珍珠的永恒魅力 Rio Pearl’s revolutionary Rainbow Gold 24 革命性彩虹金珠 Showcase Pushing design boundaries in pearl jewellery 26 精品荟萃 珍珠首饰设计突破界限 Dawn of a new era in pearl jewellery design 30 珍珠首饰设计新时代 Perspective Dragon's Pearl banks on solid demand to spur business 37 精辟视野 需求坚稳带动业务 Multifaceted strategies to advance pearl trade 38 多方战略促进珍珠贸易 Autore: Blazing trails in business and craftsmanship 40 匠心创未来 Lustrous future for Hong Kong pearl industry 42 香港珍珠业的璀璨前景 TPAHK boosts promotion of Tahitian pearls 44 TPAHK为推广大溪地珍珠全力以赴 Digest Jeweller unveils unique pearl and LGD collection 45 市场指标 珠宝商推出独特的珍珠与实验室培育钻石首饰系列 Spotlight China’s thriving pearl sector 46 市场聚焦 中国珍珠业蓬勃发展 Middle East pearl trade regains lustre 52 中东珍珠贸易重焕光彩 CONTENTS
Every care has been taken to ensure the accuracy of the information in Pearl Report 2023-2024. However, the publication of such information is at the sole discretion of the publisher. The publisher and the editorial team shall not be held responsible or in any way held liable for any errors, omissions or inaccuracies in this publication, or for any consequences arising therefrom. The contents of this publication are protected by copyright and cannot be reproduced, photocopied, transmitted or posted in any form without the prior written consent of the publisher. 本版 公权 司所 已有 尽， 力如 确未 保获 《得 珍本 珠公 特司 刊事 2先0 之2 3 书- 2 面0 2 允4 》许所，刊不登得的以内任容何正方确式无翻误印。、如仿因制错或漏转而载引本致刊任物何任损何失部，份本之公文司字概或不图负片责。。 本 公 司 保 留 刊 登 有 关 资 料 的 一 切 权 利 。 Printed by Asia One Printing Limited,13/F, Asia One Tower, 8 Fung Yip Street, Chai Wan, Hong Kong. 印刷商: 宏亚印务有限公司香港柴湾丰业街8号宏亚大厦13楼 Associate Publisher & Editor-in-Chief Olivia Quiniquini 副出版人及主编 程爱莉 EDITORIAL 编辑部 Project Editor (Pearl Report) Bernardette Sto. Domingo 項目編輯 (珍珠特刊) 杜明高 Assistant Editor Sharon Kwok 助理編輯 郭芷雯 Assistant Digital Product Manager William Yick 助理数码产品经理 易昌耀 ADVERTISING 广告部 Assistant Director Christine Sinn 区域营业总监 冼蕙珠 MARKETING 市場推广部 Senior Marketing & Communications Manager Ronny Pang 高级市场及传讯经理 彭秋影 Assistant Marketing & Communications Manager Monica Kwok 市場及傳訊助理經理 郭君寧 Marketing & Communications Executive Vincent Wong 市场及传讯主任 黄志伟 PRODUCTION 制作部 Production Manager Jennifer So 制作部经理 苏丽娟 Senior Designer Eva Kam 高级设计师 甘铭灵 Assistant Event and Media Service Manager Bonnie Law 助理项目及媒体服务经理 罗凤伦 ADVERTISING REPRESENTATIVES 广告代理 China 中国: 广州代表处 胡淑晶 | Tel 电话: (86) 20 8666 0158 Email 电邮: [email protected] Germany 德国: Liz Dobelmann | Tel 电话: (49) 721 384 1881 Email 电邮: [email protected] Italy 意大利: Mauro Arati | Tel 电话: (39) 02048517853 Email 电邮: [email protected] Japan 日本: Nobuaki Nito | Tel 电话: (81) 3 52961020 Email 电邮: [email protected] Taiwan 台湾: Rita Hung | Tel 电话: (886) 2 2738 3898 Email 电邮: [email protected] Thailand 泰国: Alongkorn Chanyangarm | Tel 电话: (66) 2 036 0500 ext 206 Email 电邮: [email protected] US 美国: Bonnie Chan | Tel 电话: (1) 347 906 4693 Email 电邮: [email protected] President & CEO – Asia Margaret Ma Connolly 亚洲主席及行政总裁 马颖 Senior Vice President – Asia David Bondi 亚洲高级副总裁 庞大为 Director of Jewellery Fairs Celine Lau 珠宝展览部总监 刘小雯 Published by Informa Markets 出版 17/F, China Resources Building, 26 Harbour Road, Wanchai, Hong Kong 香港湾仔港湾道26号华润大厦17樓 Email 电邮: [email protected] JewelleryNet.com
PEARL REPORT | 8 | 2023-2024 COVER STORY 封面故事 Jewelmer: VERSATILE LUXURY 百变奢华 | Bernardette Sto. Domingo 杜明高 | Philippines-based Jewelmer remains steadfast in further raising the profile of golden South Sea pearls in luxury circles. Driving its progressive strategy is the pearl’s classic yet contemporary appeal, which resonates more and more with a wider range of audiences. 以菲律宾为基地的Jewelmer，坚守在奢侈品市场推广南洋金珠的使命。南洋金珠散发经典气质与 慑人的当代魅力，与更广大的受众产生共鸣，是该公司经营策略的主要动力。
PEARL REPORT | 9 | 2023-2024 COVER STORY 封面故事 Jewelmer’s design and craftsmanship remain unparalleled as it selects just the top 2 per cent of its harvest. This ensures that its creations only feature South Sea pearls of outstanding quality. An ocean of golden pearls. Jewelmer highlights the mesmerising beauty of golden South Sea pearls in these bespoke jewellery pieces: Guimard necklace, Sequins earrings, Allure bracelet and Les Classiques bracelet and ring Jewelmer 一系列精心设计的首饰∶Guimard项链丶Sequins 耳环丶Allure手链丶Les Classiques手链和戒指，展现南洋金珠的迷人美 态，恍如一片金光辉映的海洋
PEARL REPORT | 10 | 2023-2024 COVER STORY 封面故事 The golden South Sea pearl has had a dazzling and illustrious journey to where it is at present: An epitome of enduring elegance highly sought after by the discerning and the affluent. At the centre of the golden pearl’s phenomenal rise to prominence is pearl specialist Jewelmer of the Philippines. Renowned for producing premium-quality golden South Sea pearls and fine jewellery, Jewelmer continues to play a critical role in advancing the beloved gem’s luxury status and provenance. According to company CEO Jacques Christophe Branellec, Jewelmer has been shining the spotlight on Philippine golden South Sea pearls since 1979. “We are committed to constantly innovating and reinventing ourselves, ensuring that the beauty and lustre of the South Sea pearl is treasured around the world,” Branellec shared. “We are motivated by the need to continuously educate domestic and overseas markets about South Sea pearls.” Jewelmer’s expertise, however, does not stop with pearl production and jewellery manufacturing – its mandate going above and beyond such aspects of the business. The company also leads initiatives placing golden South Sea pearls at the heart of a global sustainability narrative. Jewelmer is likewise witness to the soaring relevance of pearls not only as a luxurious adornment but more so as an expression of individuality. This is especially true for a younger generation of consumers as well as male buyers who are emerging as the next big clientele for pearl jewellery. Gold and multifaceted Jewelmer has become the go-to luxury jeweller for traders and connoisseurs alike who are looking for refined pearl jewellery collections. Its design and craftsmanship remain unparalleled as it selects just the top 2 per cent of its harvest. This ensures that Jewelmer’s creations only feature South Sea pearls of outstanding quality, Branellec disclosed. Complementing this is the company’s diverse and dynamic team of designers who expertly immortalises Jewelmer’s aesthetic philosophy and patented brand of sustainable luxury in every fine jewellery collection. The golden South Sea pearl’s versatility also comes to the fore with the rise of a new customer demographic, noted Branellec. “Demand for South Sea pearls is surging among men, especially in China, where they have become popular menswear accessories. Jewelmer is seeing a substantial jump in market size as this trend evolves and gains momentum,” he explained. “It is a pleasure to see men wearing South Sea pearls, whether as vehicles for selfexpression or to advocate their interest in sustainability.” Pearl market Jewelmer maintains a strong presence within Southeast Asia and globally through its boutiques and authorised retailers in major markets, including Europe and South America. According to Branellec, China has become a driving force in today’s pearl market, with Jewelmer’s sales in the country rising steadily in recent years. In fact, the company has adapted its marketing materials, websites and communication channels to various local languages in China to connect with a broader audience and to better facilitate customer engagement. Jewelmer is also taking advantage of a digital revolution in China. Over the years, the pearl specialist has effectively reached a larger share of the market through popular social media platforms such as WeChat and Little Red Book where it can regularly update customers about new collections and ongoing promotions. Loose South Sea pearls 散装南洋珠 Golden South Sea pearl by Jewelmer Jewelmer的南洋金珠
PEARL REPORT | 11 | 2023-2024 COVER STORY 封面故事 Branellec remarked, “Buyers from China are driving growth and fuelling strong demand in the pearl sector due to their increasing awareness of Philippine South Sea pearls as sustainable gems that offer long-term quality.” Chinese consumers have likewise become more sophisticated and educated in their choice of pearls and pearl jewellery. The company official added, “Their preferences are flourishing and maturing – it is wonderful to see them gain understanding on the different value factors and appreciate the one-of-a-kind nature of the South Sea pearl.” Jewelmer also recently launched its e-commerce business in Japan, an established market for pearls, as the company increasingly builds momentum for golden South Sea pearls in the country. Advocacy-driven Jewelmer continues to be an industry leader in innovation, environmental preservation and sustainability. Through the Save Palawan Seas Foundation (SPSF), a nonprofit organisation established by Jewelmer in 2006, the company is able to support efforts towards the long-term conservation and protection of marine resources while providing income to local communities and municipalities through various livelihood projects. Education is likewise central to the foundation’s mission. Most recently, SPSF started offering environmental education for children and fishermen through marine and fisheries presentations, which in turn, are opportunities that can provide members of the community with a better quality of life and other sources of income. Other programmes of the foundation include coral planting, organic vegetable planning, community seminars to raise awareness of endangered species around Palawan, and coastal clean-ups to restore the beauty of the island’s white-sand beaches. “Through nurturing the communities that depend on marine resources, Jewelmer continues to offer sustainable livelihoods while staying true to its environmental advocacies,” noted Branellec. Milestones The year 2024 marks Jewelmer’s 45th anniversary, shared Branellec. This significant milestone symbolises the company’s manifold achievements in pearl farming and production, jewellery design, business expansion and sustainability initiatives – all towards the goal of preserving the golden pearl’s legacy. Jewelmer is aiming to make the celebrations as lustrous as the legendary golden South Sea pearl with fresh and innovative product offerings and services. “Alongside other retail concepts that are in the development process, we are also excited to introduce an exclusive new experience designed to cater to our most discerning customers,” revealed Branellec.
PEARL REPORT | 12 | 2023-2024 COVER STORY 封面故事 南洋金珠贵为优雅与不朽的象征，深受眼光独到的富裕 买家喜爱。菲律宾珍珠专家Jewelmer在提升南洋金 珠的地位方面贡献良多。 Jewelmer以生产优质南洋金珠和高级珠宝而闻名，并 不断提升其奢华地位和来源素质，至今继续扮演业内的关 键角色。 Jewelmer首席执行官Jacques Christophe Branellec表 示，Jewelmer自1979年成立以来，一直致力推广菲律宾南 洋金珠。 “我们推陈出新，力求进步，让南洋珠的美丽光彩受到 全世界的珍视。”Branellec分享道。“我们渴望向国内外市场 宣扬南洋珠，而这也转化成一种动力。” 除了生产珍珠和首饰以外，Jewelmer的专业知识也延 伸至更广泛的层面，主导以南洋金珠为核心的可持续发展 项目。 Jewelmer还见证了珍珠日益成为表达自我个性的奢华 饰品，对于年轻世代和男性消费者这两个新兴市场来说，也 是如此。 Les Classiques golden South Sea pearl strand and stud earrings Les Classiques 南海金珠串链和耳钉耳环
PEARL REPORT | 13 | 2023-2024 COVER STORY 封面故事 多样化的南洋金珠 不少商人和鉴赏家都在搜罗优秀的珍珠首饰系列，而 Jewelmer已成为他们的首选奢华珠宝商。Branellec透露，该 公司只采用首2%的顶尖收成制作首饰，确保作品呈现南洋 珠的卓越之美，令设计和工艺水平至臻完美。 此外，多才多艺的设计团队也展现无穷活力，将 Jewelmer的美学理念融入每个高级珠宝系列中。 Branellec指出，新兴消费者群的崛起，也彰显了南洋金 珠的多重魅力。 “男士们对南洋珠的需求激增，在中国市场尤其显者。 随着这股风潮越吹越烈，Jewelmer预计市场规模将大幅增 长。”他解释道。“无论是作为表现自我个性的媒介，还是借 此宣扬对可持续发展的支持，我们都很高兴看到男士们佩 戴南洋珠首饰。” 珍珠市场发展 Jewelmer通过与欧洲和南美等主要市场的精品店和授 权零售商合作，在东南亚以至全球各地保持强大的影响力。 Branellec指出，中国已成为当今珍珠市场的驱动力， 而近年来Jewelmer在该市场的销售额也稳步上扬。再 者，Jewelmer已将其营销材料、网站和传播渠道翻译成不 同中文版本，与更广泛的受众建立联系和提升客户参与度。 Jewelmer亦受惠于中国市场的数字化进程。多年来，该 公司在微信和小红书等热门社交媒体，定期向客户推广全 新系列和促销活动，从而有效地扩大市场份额。 Branellec评论道：“中国的买家越来越意识到，菲律宾南 洋珠是具有稳定素质的可持续瑰宝，因此推动了这个范畴 的发展，同时刺激需求。” 在挑选珍珠和首饰方面，中国消费者也变得更有品味和 具备相关知识。他补充道：“他们的喜好已有所提升和更趋 成熟——能够见证他们对不同的价值因素加深了解，并懂得 欣赏南洋珠的独特性，令人深感欣慰。” 最近Jewelmer还在日本这个成熟的珍珠市场开展电子 业务，逐步带动该国的南洋金珠潮流。 价值主张 Jewelmer继续担当创新理念、环境保护和可持续发展的 行业领导者。该公司在2006年成立非牟利组织“拯救巴拉望 海洋基金会”(SPSF)，大力支持海洋资源的长期保育工作， 同时通过民生项目为当地社区提供收入。 基金会亦视教育为核心使命。最近，SPSF开始进行海洋 及渔业演示项目，向儿童和渔民灌输环境教育概念，同时提 升社区生活素质和创造其他收入来源。 基金会的其他项目包括种植珊瑚、有机蔬菜规划，亦致 力举办社区研讨会，提升人们对巴拉望岛一带濒危物种的 保育意识。此外，一系列海岸清洁活动亦让岛上的白色沙滩 回复美丽。 Branellec指出：“Jewelmer对依赖海洋资源的社区给予 教育和援助，继续提供可持续的生计来源，同时忠于其环保 理念。” 业务里程碑 Branellec称，2024年是Jewelmer创立45周年的重要里 程碑，象征着他们在珍珠养殖和生产、珠宝设计、业务拓展 和可持续发展方面所取得的成就，一切旨在维持南洋金珠 不朽的传奇。 作为庆祝的一部分，Jewelmer积极推出创新的产品和服 务，像传奇的南洋金珠一样绽放耀眼光辉。 Branellec还透露该公司的新計劃：“我们除了开发零售 概念，还隆重推出一项全新的独特体验，旨在满足眼光最敏 锐的客户的需求。” All jewellery pieces by Jewelmer 所有珠宝均来自Jewelmer Lautitia-Effloro ring with a golden South Sea pearl centre gem and diamond accents Lautitia-Effloro戒指以一颗南洋金珠为主 石，并以多颗钻石作点缀 Les Classiques golden South Sea pearl strand Les Classiques南洋金珠串链
FOCUS 焦点 PEARL REPORT | 14 | 2023-2024 South Sea pearl necklaces from Gellner’s Bold Collection for men Gellner的Bold男士系列南洋珠项链 The pearl industry is witnessing unprecedented growth across all pearl varieties as well as increased market appreciation for novelty in jewellery designs. Challenges notwithstanding, pearl companies remain bullish about business prospects as global demand for the treasured gem gains further traction.不论任何品种，珍珠行业正经历前所未 有的增长，而市场对新颖珠宝设计的认受程度也不断提升。尽管面临挑战，随着全球珍珠需求增加， 许多珍珠公司仍然看好行业前景。 Pearls are the darlings of today’s jewellery industry. Symbolising organic beauty, versatility and an illustrious past, they consistently take pride of place in the luxury sector as favoured centrepieces in high jewellery collections. Demand is also robust among a younger generation of buyers who value the pearl’s creative potential as well as men who increasingly wear the gem as a fashion statement. This exceptional demand is pushing prices up, with traders pointing to significant price adjustments for Japanese Akoya, South Sea and Tahitian pearls from preCovid levels. Supply constraints, owing to high demand coupled with oyster mortality and environmental challenges such as water temperature fluctuations, are also a concern, but several dealers and manufacturers remain confident that pearls currently in their inventory can keep the market afloat. Pearl business China is leading the demand upsurge for pearls while the US and Europe are also seeing solid market appetite, especially for premium-quality pearls. According to George Kakuda, chairman of the Japan Pearl Exporters Association (JPEA), strong demand from China is driving steep price increases that buyers from other countries are struggling to accommodate. Unit prices of Japanese Akoya pearls at auction have so far increased by more than 100 per cent to Y7,300 per | Bernardette Sto. Domingo 杜明高 | 珍珠行业倡导 业务和设计创新 Pearl sector champions business and design innovation
FOCUS 焦点 PEARL REPORT | 15 | 2023-2024 Tahitian pearls. Photo courtesy of the Tahitian Pearl Association Hong Kong 大溪地珠。照片由香港大溪地黑珍珠协会提供 Source: Tahitian Pearl Association Hong Kong 资料来源：香港大溪地黑珍珠协会 momme from Y3,000 per momme in 2015 to 2020. These figures were based on results of joint sales, representing average price per momme of top- to low-quality goods. Fine-quality, round white South Sea pearls, meanwhile, saw unit price adjustments of close to 200 per cent to Y200,000 per momme from Y70,000 per momme pre-Covid. Sourcing has also become more challenging. Kakuda said market developments are redefining the pearl business in Japan. In the past, dealers could easily supply pearls according to customers’ exact sourcing needs and specifications whereas now, it is the other way around. “Stocks are limited, so we had to change our strategy. Now, we present what we have to the market, with a specific price range, and ask who is interested,” the JPEA chairman explained. Rosario Autore, CEO and founder of Australian South Sea pearl specialist Autore, said fewer companies are producing better-quality white South Sea pearls amid increasing demand. Asia, led by China and Japan, are prime movers in the pearl trade but demand is steadily growing in the US and Europe, too. Autore also entertains enquiries from South America and the Middle East. Autore, which produces approximately 350,000 pearls annually in Indonesia and Australia, has seen record annual turnover and profitability in 2022 and 2023, noted Rosario. The company is also the second-largest producer and quota holder in Australia. “Autore heavily invested in research and development over the last 13 years. The pearls we produce and sell at auction can attest to our high standards of quality,” remarked Rosario. “Based on competitive bidding at our auctions, all lots achieve prices exceeding undisclosed reserves. The only challenge we face is keeping up with demand.” Tahitian pearls are also in the limelight, with buyers opting for round to semi-round and baroque pearls of vivid colours and exceptional lustre at auction, said Kakuda of JPEA. According to the Tahitian Pearl Association Hong Kong (TPAHK), results of its auctions in August 2023 showed that high-quality, round Tahitian pearls were extremely sought after while prices have soared significantly from pre-pandemic levels. Interest in uniquely shaped pearls like keshi and semi-baroque are also on the upswing, thanks to limited production and mainland Chinese celebrities promoting these pearls. Meanwhile, Hong Kong accounted for 61 per cent of Tahitian pearl exports (by weight) from French Polynesia in 2022, TPAHK data showed. Hong Kong has retained this position since 2010. TPAHK said prospects remain bright for Tahitian pearls throughout 2023 amid tighter supply and high prices, with Asia, the US and Europe contributing to business growth. Jonathan Cheng, director of Rio Pearl, said what is creating extraordinary demand for all pearl varieties, including Tahitian, white and golden South Sea and Akoya pearls, is the tight supply of quality goods in the market. Several farms closed in 2021 and 2022 due to difficulties arising from Covid, leaving only the big producers to supply pearls in the market. “Demand outweighs what is in the market now. Most buyers are finding it difficult to source goods across the board,” noted Cheng. “The market, however, is relatively stable, with sizable producers still making the same number of pearls, if not slightly more.” Design revolution The beloved pearl is all the rage in the fine jewellery market today, thanks to innovative jewellers and discerning buyers. Jorg Gellner, CEO of German fine jeweller Gellner, said clients were actively buying big-ticket pearl jewellery items during the pandemic as funds intended for luxury travel were diverted to jewellery purchases. 2022 Tahitian Pearl Exports Data from French Polynesia 2022年大溪地珍珠出口數据 Destination 出口地 Weight 重量 FOB Value 价值 Hong Kong 香港地区 61% 56% Japan 日本 29% 35% USA 美国 6% 4% France 法国 3% 3% Others 其他 1% 2% 100% 100%
FOCUS 焦点 PEARL REPORT | 16 | 2023-2024 For instance, the company unveiled a necklace adorned with Marutea (Tahitian) pearls from its Castaway Collection in 2022. The piece costs EUR22,000 (around US$23,700) at retail. Gellner was initially looking at offering just a few pieces for the Christmas season, but 10 necklaces were quickly snapped up within 10 days. By the end of 2022, Gellner had already sold 22 pieces. “That was quite a success. We could not have sold that necklace at that price range three or five years ago,” noted Jorg. “We see a shift in how people buy jewellery and the kind of designs they gravitate to.” Gellner’s bestselling Castaway Collection features elegant combinations of pearls with diamonds. Jorg does not see a drastic drop in luxury jewellery shopping even as international travel is normalising. Jewellers may sell fewer pieces but at higher prices with better returns, which is testament to buyers’ willingness to invest in luxurious items, he explained. There is also an emerging pearl jewellery culture among younger people aged between 20 and 35 years old. And they favour Japanese Akoya pearls. Gellner recorded a 60 per cent year-on-year jump in sales of plain Japanese Akoya pearl necklaces in 2022 alone. The company likewise unveiled a men’s jewellery line, which was well-received in the market. Gellner specialises in South Sea, Tahitian and Japanese pearl jewellery, with major markets all over Europe. This constant innovation in design and product offerings is key to sustaining buyers’ interest, remarked Michael Hakimian, CEO of high-end pearl jeweller Yoko London. Yoko London made substantial investments in new production techniques, technology and increasingly inventive designs while offering a broader price range encompassing entrylevel jewellery pieces to exclusive, one-of-a-kind items. The UK-based jeweller, whose main markets are the US, the Middle East, Asia and Europe, aims to produce 200 to 300 jewellery pieces a year as a way to diversify its product portfolio and appeal to a wider buyer demographic. Yoko London produced 300 new items at the height of the Covid19 pandemic. Hakimian said, “We found many new clients and established new partnerships with retailers around the world because of this endeavour. They like what we do and the message that our collections represent.” Echoing industry observations, he said smaller Japanese Akoya pearls are enjoying strong demand today, thanks to their inimitable quality and affordability. These pearls, however, are also harder to come by. Yoko London has introduced a great deal of collections featuring ultrafeminine 3mm to 5mm Japanese Akoya pearls, which have become top sellers. White South Sea pearls are also gaining further traction, specifically those sized 9mm to 12mm as opposed to larger ones, which were trendier five or six years ago. Collectors, on the other end of the spectrum, continue to source 17mm to 19mm pearls as these are classic pieces. Yoko London’s new collection launching in September 2023 celebrates the company’s unique design philosophy of melding classic and contemporary styles. “There is always one aesthetic element that makes the designs more innovative and up to date. We call it ‘pearls with a twist.’ That is our claim to fame,” noted Hakimian. Pearl prospects Cheng of Rio Pearl raised the need to strengthen efforts to resonate more effectively with the younger generation and to appeal to a wider range of consumers. “We are seeing this in China. There are also a lot of young people entering our industry as wholesalers, who in turn, can attract a younger customer base. This is good for our industry,” he noted. Kakuda of JPEA, for his part, said the demand and supply situation could stabilise in five to six years’ time, but 2023 is projected to be a year of growth for the pearl sector, owing to soaring demand from major markets, led by China. 珍珠以其天然美态、多样风格和辉煌的历史而深受业界 欢迎，成为高级珠宝系列的主角。 年轻买家重视珍珠的创意潜力，也有越来越多男士将佩 戴珍珠视作时尚宣言，需求相当强劲。 大量的需求正在推高价格。一些珍珠商指出，日本海水 珠、南洋珠和大溪地珠的价格将远超于新冠疫情前的水平。 需求高企加上珍珠贝死亡率和水温波动等环境挑战所导 致的供应限制，也是一个值得关注的问题，但珍珠公司相信 有足够的库存来满足市场。 珍珠行业状况 中国市场正引领着珍珠需求的增长，而欧美市场的需求 也不相上下，尤其是优质珍珠方面。 日本真珠输出组合(JPEA)主席觉田让治表示，中国的需 求正在推动价格急剧上涨，令其他国家的买家难以适应。 日本海水珠在拍卖会上的价格从2015年的每毛美 (momme) 3,000日元，上升至2020的每毛美7,300日元，升幅 超过100%。这些数字以联合销售结果为基础，代表从顶级到 一般品质珍珠的每毛美平均价格。 Earrings in 18-karat white gold with 15.2mm South Sea pearls and diamonds from Yoko London’s High Jewellery Collection Yoko London高级珠宝 系列 18K白金耳环，镶有 15.2 毫米 南洋珠和钻石
FOCUS 焦点 PEARL REPORT | 18 | 2023-2024 售少量高价位的珠宝，以获取更优厚的利润——这点证明了 买家愿意投资奢侈品。 介乎20至35岁的消费者群中，也出现了新兴的珍珠首饰 文化，并以日本海水珠为最受青睐的品种。Gellner所录得的 数据显示，单在2022年，款式简洁的日本海水珠项链销量已 同比大幅上升了60%。 该公司还推出了男士首饰系列，受到买家热烈好评 。 Gellner专注于南洋、大溪地和日本海水珠首饰，主要销往欧 洲市场。高级珍珠珠宝商Yoko London的首席执行官Michael Hakimian表示，持续创新产品设计是维持买家兴趣的关键。 Yoko London在开发新型生产技术、新科技和创新设计 上投入巨额，同时开拓更广阔的价格范围，涵盖入门级首饰 以至独一无二的尊贵设计。 这家英国珠宝商以美国、中东、亚洲和欧洲为主要市场， 目标是每年生产200至300款珠宝首饰，使其产品组合更多 样化，吸引更广泛的买家群。Yoko London在疫情最严峻时生 产了300项新产品。 Hakimian说：“这番努力令我们得到许多新客户的支持， 并与世界各地的零售商建立全新合作伙伴关系。他们都很喜 欢本公司的产品，以及系列背后所传达的信息。” 他亦呼应行业观察所得，表示较小的日本海水珠如今大 受欢迎，这点要归功于其卓越品质和实惠价格。然而，这些珍 珠在市场上较为罕见。Yoko London推出了多个采用3至5毫 米日本海水珠的系列，已成为最畅销的产品。 白色南洋珠也深受欢迎，特别是9至12毫米尺寸的珍珠， 而不是五六年前流行的大颗珍珠。此外，藏家将继续采购17 至19毫米的珍珠，延续经典美学。 Yoko London在2023年9月推出的全新系列，歌颂其经典 与现代并重的独特设计理念。Hakimian指出：“总有一种美学 元素可以使设计更具创意和时代感，为珍珠注入新意，这是 本公司声名鹊起的关键。” 珍珠行业前景 丽雅珠行的郑俊鸿指出，要吸引更广大的消费者，就需 要加大力度，更有效地与年轻一代产生共鸣。他说：“我们在 中国市场看到了这一点，而且还有很多年轻人加入成为批 发商，反过来可以吸引更年轻的客户群，对行业非常有利。” JPEA的觉田则表示，供应和需求可能会在五到六年内趋 于稳定，但由于以中国为首的主要市场需求飙升，预计2023 年将会是珍珠行业蓬勃发展的一年。 与此同时，优质圆形白色南洋珠的价格亦从疫情爆发前 的每毛美7万日元，上调至每毛美20万日元，升幅接近200%。 采购也是一大挑战。觉田让治表示，市场发展正在重新定 义日本的珍珠行业。过往珍珠商可以轻松地根据客户的具体 需求和规格进行供应，但现在情况恰恰相反。 “库存有限令我们改变策略。现在，我们会向市场展示 现有的产品，并确定具体的价格范围，再询问哪些买家有兴 趣。”JPEA主席觉田解释。 澳大利亚南洋珠专家Autore的首席执行官兼创始人 Rosario Autore表示，在需求增加的同时，生产优质白色南洋 珠的公司却越来越少。以中国和日本为首的亚洲市场，在推 动珍珠贸易方面占据领导地位，但欧美市场的需求也在稳步 增长。Autore还会接受南美和中东客户的查询。 Rosario指出，Autore在印度尼西亚和澳大利亚每年生产约 35万颗珍珠，2022年和2023年的年度营业额和盈利能力创下 历史新高。该公司也是澳大利亚第二大生产商和配额持有者。 “过去13年，Autore在研发方面投入了大量资金。由我 们生产并在拍卖会上销售的珍珠，均合乎我们的高品质标 准。”Rosario说道。“我们的拍卖会上竞投踊跃，所有拍品的成 交价都超越了未公开的库存。唯一的挑战就是满足大量需求。” JPEA的觉田表示，大溪地珠也备受注目，买家在拍卖会上 都会选择色彩鲜艳而充满光泽的圆形、半圆形和巴洛克珍珠。 香港大溪地黑珍珠协会(TPAHK)指出，2023年8月的拍卖 结果显示优质圆形大溪地珠深受欢迎，价格较疫情前大幅飙 升。芥子珠和半巴洛克珍珠等形状独特的珍珠，由于产量有限 和得到中国内地名人大力宣传，令人们对这些珍珠兴趣甚殷。 TPAHK的数据亦显示，香港地区在2022年占法属玻里尼 西亚大溪地珠出口量(按重量计算)的61%。自2010年以来，香 港地区一直稳守这个地位。TPAHK表示，尽管供应紧张和价 格高涨，2023年大溪地珠的前景依然光明，其中亚洲和欧美 市场为业务增长作出不少贡献。 丽雅珠行总经理郑俊鸿表示，市场之所以对所有珍珠品 种呈现巨大需求，包括大溪地珠、南洋白珠及金珠，还有海水 珠，原因是优质产品供应紧张。 鉴于疫情挑战，部分养珠场在2021年和2022年陆续关 闭，只剩下大型生产商向市场供应珍珠。 郑俊鸿指出：“现在市场上供不应求，大多数买家都难于 进行采购。不过，由于市场相对上稳定，规模较大的生产商仍 然能够出产相同数量的珍珠，甚至略多一些。” 设计革命 创新的珠宝商和眼光独到的买家，都推动了优质珍珠首 饰的需求。德国高级珠宝商Gellner的首席执行官Jorg Gellner 称，在新冠疫情期间，客户都乐于购买昂贵的珍珠首饰，因为 原本用于度假的资金被转移至购买珠宝。 Gellner在2022年为Castaway系列推出了一款饰有 Marutea岛大溪地珠的项链，零售价为22,000欧元(约23,700 美元)。Gellner最初只打算为圣诞节推出几条，但在10天内已 售出10条。截至2022年底，Gellner已售出22条项链。 “我们可算是取得成功。三五年前，我们根本不可能出售 这个价格范围的项链。”Jorg指出。“人们购买珠宝的方式和 喜欢的设计类型，都在发生变化。” Gellner最畅销的Castaway系列，将珍珠与钻石的优雅组 合发扬光大。尽管国际旅游业已逐渐回复正常，Jorg认为高 级珠宝消费额也不会大幅下降。他解释说，珠宝商可能会出 Japanese Akoya pearl by Kakuda Pearl Co Ltd Kakuda Pearl Co Ltd的日本海水珠
FOCUS 焦点 PEARL REPORT | 20 | 2023-2024 Pearls of Australia’s Cygnet Bay Pearl Farm 天鹅湾珍珠养殖场 The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) and The Nature Conservancy (TNC) teamed up to examine the social and environmental impact of pearling and to add pertinent sustainability data to pearl-origin tracking. GIA美国宝石研究院与大自然保护协会联手合作，探索珍珠行业对社会和环 境的影响，并将相关的可持续发展数据纳入珍珠溯源之中。 Molluscs are indicator species. As such, pearls, whether saltwater or freshwater, reflect the journey of the oysters and mussels from which they are harvested. Temperature, salinity, acidity and nutrient flow influence the formation of nacre – the canvas on which pearl shape, size, colour, lustre and surface are valued. Nacre forms naturally or through human intervention, in which case, pearl farmers’ skills and, oftentimes, inspiration can also affect pearl quality. Growth and survival of molluscs, meanwhile, rely on the health of waterways and, generally, on the continued protection of marine and land resources. Several industry initiatives are underway to better understand sustainability in the pearl trade. The Pearl Commission of CIBJO, the World Jewellery Confederation, aims to provide a sensible definition of sustainability when applied to pearls. Kenneth Scarratt, president of CIBJO Pearl Commission, explained, “CIBJO felt the need to provide an inclusive document to help the industry understand the social, environmental and economic impact of natural and cultured pearls as an introduction to our pearl guide.” The document, scheduled for review and approval at CIBJO Congress in Jaipur, India in October 2023, offers an overview of how pearls impact communities, climate, biodiversity and pollution; and the critical role of pearlers engaged in fishing, breeding and/or farming activities. ESG tool for farmers The Nature Conservancy (TNC) has been promoting the principles of restorative aquaculture – think regenerative agriculture – while running collaborative projects with industry players using an in-house Environmental, Social and Corporate Governance or ESG assessment tool. TNC collaborated with the Gemological Institute of America (GIA), which agreed to fund the creation of Pearlpoints, the first-ever open-source self-assessment online tool for pearls. Its initial version was shared with selected pearl farmers for feedback in June 2023 after about six months of development. The project was completed in August 2023. While it does not replace an actual Life Cycle Analysis (LCA) or ESG assessment, the tool, specifically designed for pearl farmers, provides detailed information about emissions, nitrogen capture, restorative aquaculture and indications on data readiness. The first version of Pearlpoints, which can be accessed through pearlpoints.io, focuses on saltwater pearls, but the same approach can be applied to freshwater and natural pearls. A summary of the outcome of the pilot LCA and ESG is available on Pearlpoints and indicates a competitive level of emissions per pearl (CO2 Eq) as well as the potential for responsible pearl operations to drive ecosystem restoration. The assessment consists of a series of 30 questions on pearl farming operations, specifically energy consumption, | Pierre Fallourd | 赋可能持珍续珠未养来殖者掌握 Empowering pearl farmers for a future SUSTAINABLE
FOCUS 焦点 PEARL REPORT | 21 | 2023-2024 water origin and other operational elements. There is also a section on management and compliance systems. Assessment results provide key metric estimates and access to relevant resources to provide guidance on responsible practices. Heidi Alleway of TNC explained that pearling was a great opportunity to test TNC’s framework on a global industry facing diverse challenges. The initiative also complements GIA’s education and pearl services and will help project these into the future, shared GIA Executive Vice President and Chief Laboratory and Research Officer Tom Moses. Leanne Kemp of Everledger, which also played a key role in developing Pearlpoints, said the main goal is to empower farmers by providing them with necessary frameworks and digitised systems to fully manage their sustainability efforts. James Brown, managing director of Pearls of Australia whose pearling operations and LCA and ESG assessments provided the foundations for Pearlpoints, stated that provenance and sustainability credentials foster a deeper connection with customers. 为农民提供有关负责任实践的相关资源和指导。Pearlpoints 的初始版本集中于海水珍珠范畴，但同样的模式也适用于 淡水和天然珍珠。现可在pearlpoints.io浏览该版本。LCA和 ESG试点结果的摘要已于Pearlpoints上发布，当中每颗珍珠 的排放(二氧化碳当量CO2Eq)处于竞争性水平，并显示责任 珍珠企业在推动生态系统恢复方面的潜力。 TNC的负责人Heidi Alleway解释说，在面临各种挑战的 全球行业中，珍珠业是测试TNC框架的理想范畴。 GIA执行副总裁兼首席鉴定和研究官Tom Moses表示， 该项目亦与GIA的教育工作和珍珠服务相辅相成，并有助规 划其未来发展。 Everledger公司的Leanne Kemp在开发Pearlpoints的过 程中也发挥了关键作用，她指Pearlpoints的主要目标是为农 民提供必要的框架和数字化系统，以全面管理他们的可持 续发展工作。 Pearls of Australia的养珠业务、LCA及ESG评估为 Pearlpoints奠定了基础。该公司的董事总经理James Brown 表示，原产地和可持续发展证书有助于加深与客户的联系。 软体动物是重要的指标物种。无论是海水或淡水珍珠， 都反映了其珍珠贝的生长历程。 温度、盐度、酸度和养分流，都对珍珠质的形成有所影 响，而珍珠质就是建构不同珍珠形状、大小、颜色、光泽和 表面品质的画布，透过自然或人工程序形成，在后者的情 况下，珍珠农的技术以至思维都会影响珍珠的质量。与此同 时，软体动物的生长和存活率亦有赖水质健康，以及海陆资 源的持续保育。不同的机构正推出多项举措，以更深入探索 珍珠行业的可持续性。 国际珠宝首饰联合会(CIBJO)辖下的珍珠委员会，旨在 为珍珠的可持续发展给予合理的定义。CIBJO珍珠委员会主 席Kenneth Scarratt解释说：“CIBJO认为有必要发表一份全 面性的文件，帮助行业了解天然和养殖珍珠对社会、环境和 经济的影响，作为本会珍珠指南的入门资讯。” 2023年10月在印度斋浦尔举行的CIBJO大会上，将进行 该文件的审批工作。它概述了珍珠如何对社区、气候、生物 多样性和环境污染构成影响，以及从事采集和养殖活动的 珍珠农的关键角色。 为珍珠农打造ESG工具 大自然保护协会(TNC)一直致力推广恢复性水产养殖方 案(其概念有如再生农业)，同时采用自家开发的环境、社会 和企业治理(ESG)评估工具，与业者共同开展合作项目。 GIA美国宝石研究院同意资助创建TNC的Pearlpoints项 目，实现首项为珍珠而设的开源在线自我评估工具。经过约 六个月的研发，于2023年6月向特选珍珠养殖户提供初始版 本，以收集其反馈意见。该项目于2023年8月完成。 虽然该工具未能取代生命周期分析(LCA)或ESG评估工 作，但胜在专为珍珠养殖者而设计，能够提供有关排放、氮 捕获、恢复性水产养殖的详细信息，以及显示数据准备程度。 评估的内容包括一系列有关珍珠养殖操作的问题，特别 是能源消耗丶水源和其他操作因素，共30道问题。还有一部 分涉及管理和法规系统。评估结果将提供关键指标估算，亦 About the author 笔者简介 Pierre Fallourd worked with golden South Sea pearl specialist Jewelmer from 1998 to 2013, helping elevate the coveted golden pearl to greater heights. He then managed Atlas Pearls from 2014 to 2019. He is now a purpose-driven consultant on a mission to transform the way people view and appreciate pearls while promoting pearl provenance. Pierre Fallourd在1998至2013年间，与南洋金珠专家 Jewelmer合作，将本已极受欢迎的金珠推向新高峰。而在 2014至2019年，他负责管理Atlas Pearls 。他目前是一名以 目标为导向的顾问，以改变人们观赏珍珠的方式及促进珍珠 溯源为其当前使命。
INSIGHT 睿智角度 PEARL REPORT | 22 | 2023-2024 Conch pearls have entered the realm of art and luxury, thanks to manufacturers and designers who consistently place the phenomenal pink pearl at the centre of their fine jewellery collections. 不少生产商和设计师都以海螺珠为 珠宝系列的焦点，将这种色泽粉红的珍珠引进艺术 与奢华领域。 | Bernardette Sto. Domingo 杜明高 | The perpetual allure of pink pearls The beloved conch pearl has been capturing hearts in the jewellery and gemstone world for years, and over the past decade, appreciation for the natural pink gem has only grown exponentially, according to Bertrand Ternat, owner of conch pearl specialist Ocean Flame. Conch pearls, coveted for their exceptional colour and flame-like structure, started out as a collector’s item but have since become an essential element of fine jewellery collections. “Conch pearls enjoy a broader circulation around the world as a result of jewellers regularly using conch pearls in their masterpiece collections and auction houses selling unique conch pearl jewellery,” revealed Ternat. Jewellers also saw the need to develop different price-point collections as end-consumer demand continues to grow. In fact, conch pearls are among the highest-rotating goods in company inventories, he added. Asia is currently the largest market for conch pearls, followed by North America and Europe, which both saw demand double in the last five years. Meanwhile, the Middle East is deemed the fastestgrowing market now. Amid steadily rising demand is the limited supply of conch pearls. The oval-shaped gem is naturally formed by fibrous crystals inside a rare sea snail called conch. It is non-nacreous, meaning it is not made of nacre or mother-of-pearl. Only one out of 10,000 to 15,000 shells produce a conch pearl and only 10 per cent of these are of gem quality. Prices are relatively stable, considering how rare conch pearls are. By comparison, rough diamond output reached an estimated 117.5 million carats in 2022 while only about 22,000 carats of conch pearls were produced during the same year. 粉色珍珠的永恒魅力
INSIGHT 睿智角度 PEARL REPORT | 23 | 2023-2024 All conch pearl images by Ocean Flame 所有海螺珠图片由Ocean Flame提供 “We plan to hike prices by about 15 to 20 per cent in the next two to three years to reflect the pearl’s one-of-a-kind nature,” noted Ternat. “It is difficult to predict at which level or when conchs will mature, but what is certain is that the gap between demand and supply is progressively widening.” Rosy future Ocean Flame continues to develop its conch pearl expertise through innovation and partnerships with local communities and fishermen. Most recently, the company has extended its selection of natural pearls to include the Pinctada and Pteria species, which are known for producing gem-quality pearls. Ternat is filled with optimism when it comes to the future of conch pearls. He said the pink pearl will most likely follow the growth trajectory experienced by other emerging gemstones in the industry. There are three aspects that are worth mentioning, according to Ternat: Consumer education; broadening reach of pearls in Asian markets and other countries; and the conch pearl’s unparalleled exceptionality. Customers have become more knowledgeable and accepting of conch pearls, and this has bolstered unprecedented demand for the gem. Keen interest mostly come from Asian buyers, but conch pearls are also gaining popularity in other markets. And what attracts them the most about conch pearls is their rarity. “We see a bright future for natural pearls in general, conch pearls particularly. Prices are bound to keep rising as conch pearls remain undervalued for the time being,” noted Ternat. “Conch pearls exhibit such a bright and feminine charm that immediately lights up one’s mood. They are happy, beautiful gems.” 海螺珠专家Ocean Flame的东主Bertrand Ternat表示， 多年来海螺珠一直是珠宝和宝石业界的宠儿，而在过 去十年，人们对这种天然粉色瑰宝更加趋之若鹜。 原本属于收藏级别的海螺珠，因其独特的色彩和火焰般 的纹理而备受追捧，如今已成为高级珠宝系列的必选素材。 Ternat透露：“海螺珠现于全球各地拥有更高的曝光率， 原因是珠宝商经常以海螺珠创造出色之作，而拍卖行也不 时成交独一无二的海螺珠首饰。” 终端消费者的需求增加，也带动珠宝商提供不同价位的 产品系列。他补充说，海螺珠是不少珠宝公司库存周转率最 高的商品之一。 亚洲目前是海螺珠的最大市场，其次是北美和欧洲，而 这两个市场的需求在过去五年都翻了一番。此外，中东是目 前发展最快的市场。 尽管需求不断增加，海螺珠的供应其实非常有限。这种 椭圆形的珍珠是由稀有的海生蜗牛——海螺内的纤维晶体 自然形成的，属非珍珠质品种，即是它并非由珍珠质或珍珠 母贝形成。在10,000到15,000枚海螺之中，只有一枚能产出 海螺珠，其中仅10%达到宝石级别。 海螺珠世间罕有，但价格相对稳定。毛坯钻石的2022年 产量预计达到1.175亿克拉，而相比之下，同年海螺珠的产 量仅为约22,000克拉。 “在未来两到三年内，我们计划将价格调高15%到20% 左右，以反映出海螺珠的独特性。”Ternat指出。“我们难以预 料海螺珠市场在哪个水平或何时会步入成熟期，但可以肯定 的是，供需之间的差距正在逐渐扩大。” 粉红色的未来 Ocean Flame通过持续创新，以及与 产地社区和渔民合作，继续精进其海螺 珠业务。最近，该公司也增添了以生产宝 石级珍珠而闻名的Pinctada和Pteria品 种，以扩大天然珍珠的选择范围。 Ternat对海螺珠的未来也深表乐观， 认为它很可能会追随其他新兴宝石的增 长轨迹。 依他所见，有三个方面值得留意︰ 推行消费者教育、在亚洲和其他国家拓 展珍珠市场，以及发挥珍珠出类拔萃的 特质。 顾客对海螺珠的认识和接受程度不 断提升，令需求创下历史新高。海螺珠因 其稀有性而引人注目。亚洲市场现正展 现炽热需求，但它在其他市场的受欢迎 程度也不逊色。 “总括而言，我们预计天然珍珠，特别是海螺珠的前景 将会一片光明。海螺珠现时的价值仍然被低估，因此价格必 然会继续攀升。”Ternat称。“海螺珠绽放明亮迷人的柔美个 性，有提升心情的作用，是象征快乐的美丽瑰宝。”
jewellerynet.comRkJQdWJsaXNoZXIy NjAxOTU=