PEARL A Publication US$20 JEWELMER LEADS DIGITALISATION AND SUSTAINABILITY 引数 领字 珍化 珠和 贸持 易续发展 PEARLS: CLASSIC CHARM, CONTEMPORARY GLAM 珍珠：经典韵味、现代风姿 Spotlight on JAPAN’S PEARL SECTOR 聚焦日本珍珠行业 珍 珠 特 刊 珍珠特刊 REPORT 2022-2023
Every care has been taken to ensure the accuracy of the information in Pearl Report 2022-2023. However, the publication of such information is at the sole discretion of the publisher. The publisher and the editorial team shall not be held responsible or in any way held liable for any errors, omissions or inaccuracies in this publication, or for any consequences arising therefrom. The contents of this publication are protected by copyright and cannot be reproduced, photocopied, transmitted or posted in any form without the prior written consent of the publisher. 本公司已尽力确保《珍珠特刊2022-2023》所刊登的内容正确无误。如因错漏而引致任何损失，本公司概不负责。本公司保留刊登有关资料的一切权利。 版权所有，如未获得本公司事先之书面允许，不得以任何方式翻印、仿制或转载本刊物任何部份之文字或图片。 Printed by Asia One Printing Limited,13/F, Asia One Tower, 8 Fung Yip Street, Chai Wan, Hong Kong. 印刷商: 宏亚印务有限公司香港柴湾丰业街8号宏亚大厦13楼 Associate Publisher & Editor-in-Chief Olivia Quiniquini 副出版人及主编 程爱莉 EDITORIAL 编辑部 Project Editor (Pearl Report) Bernardette Sto. Domingo 項目編輯 (珍珠特刊) 杜明高 Assistant Digital Product Manager William Yick 助理数码产品经理 易昌耀 ADVERTISING 广告部 Assistant Director Christine Sinn 区域营业总监 冼蕙珠 Digital & Sales Manager Ken Chan 數碼業務及銷售經理 陈赞健 MARKETING 市場推广部 Senior Marketing & Communications Manager Ronny Pang 高级市场及传讯经理 彭秋影 Senior Marketing & Communications Executive Grace Tam 高级市场及传讯主任 谭淑恩 Marketing & Communications Executive Vincent Wong 市场及传讯主任 黄志伟 PRODUCTION 制作部 Production Manager Jennifer So 制作部经理 苏丽娟 Senior Designer Eva Kam 高级设计师 甘铭灵 Assistant Exhibition and Media Service Manager Bonnie Law 助理展览及媒体服务经理 罗凤伦 ADVERTISING REPRESENTATIVES 广告代理 China 中国: 广州代表处胡淑晶 | Tel 电话: (86) 20 8666 0158 Email 电邮: [email protected] Germany 德国: Liz Dobelmann | Tel 电话: (49) 721 384 1881 Email 电邮: [email protected] Italy 意大利: Mauro Arati | Tel 电话: (39) 02048517853 Email 电邮: [email protected] Japan 日本: Nobuaki Nito | Tel 电话: (81) 3 52961020 Email 电邮: [email protected] Taiwan 台湾: Rita Hung | Tel 电话: (886) 2 2738 3898 Email 电邮: [email protected] Thailand 泰国: Anna Vichvech | Tel 电话: (66) 2 036 0500 Email 电邮: [email protected] US 美国: Bonnie Chan | Tel 电话: (1) 347 906 4693 Email 电邮: [email protected] President & CEO – Asia Margaret Ma Connolly 亚洲主席及行政总裁 马颖 Senior Vice President – Asia David Bondi 亚洲高级副总裁 庞大为 Director of Jewellery Fairs Celine Lau 珠宝展览部总监 刘小雯 Published by Informa Markets 出版 1701-1705, China Resources Building, 26 Harbour Road, Wanchai, Hong Kong 香港湾仔港湾道26号华润大厦1701-1705室 Email 电邮: [email protected] JewelleryNet.com
PEARL REPORT | 8 | 2022-2023 COVER STORY ‘Les Classiques’ strand, studs and ring; and ‘Goutte d’Or’ bracelet ‘Les Classiques’珍珠链,耳钉和戒指‘; Goutte d’Or’手镯
PEARL REPORT | 9 | 2022-2023 封面故事 Philippines-based Jewelmer counts the pearl’s timeless appeal as the driving force behind the industry’s steady recovery amid economic, political and environmental challenges. Critical to the sector’s continued success too are two evolutionary developments in the pearl trade: Digitalisation and sustainability. Jewelmer – renowned globally as a top producer of golden South Sea pearls and pearl jewellery – is at the centre of a growing convergence between these influential concepts. Sustainability has always been focal to Jewelmer’s agenda and with changes brought about by Covid-19 and other major headwinds, digitalisation is increasingly becoming a crucial element in the company’s growth strategy. “The maison views such challenges with an everresilient attitude, facing times of uncertaintieswith collective optimism and as learning opportunities for growth and adaptation,” remarked Jacques Christophe Branellec, executive vice president and deputy CEO of Jewelmer. Growth drivers Jewelmer has observed rising interest in rare luxury goods over the years. Instrumental to this jump in demand are Chinese clients who are consistently investing in Philippine South Sea pearls and finished South Sea pearl jewellery. Branellec revealed, “We aspire to become established in China and resonate more with Chinese consumers.” With robust demand, prices of exceptional pearls have bounced back, surpassing those in previous years, he added. Consumers’ quest for authenticity and value-based products is also fuelling the business. Pearls have become symbols of ethical environmental practices and the market is increasingly buying into this narrative. “Individuals are becoming more mindful and reflective of their values. There is a newfound desire to understand the origins of the brands that they purchase from. People are looking deeper into the meaning behind items that bring them joy,” the company official said. Jewelmer has an expansive international footprint, with the China and the US expected to contribute majority of business growth, he added. Covid and other challenges Evolving environmental conditions strongly correlate with pearl supply and production, further raising the importance of protecting and conserving natural resources, according to Branellec. Jewelmer AT THE HELM OF DIGITALISATION AND SUSTAINABILITY 站在数字化及可持续发展之前沿 | Bernardette Sto. Domingo 杜明高 | The golden South Sea pearl expert is at the forefront of two transformative and influential movements that could bring the international pearl industry to greater heights. 南洋金珠专家Jewelmer 积极驱动两项具重大影响力的业内变革，把国际珍珠业推上另一高峰。
PEARL REPORT | 10 | 2022-2023 COVER STORY At Jewelmer, certain environmental shifts related to the greater fluctuation of water temperature, ocean acidification and changes in the plankton profile are impacting production. Climate change affects survival rates of certain batches of oysters as well as overall growth rate. On the whole, challenges brought about by global warming are making it more difficult to produce pearls. “These present both obstacles and opportunities – the main challenge is Jewelmer will have a lower volume to distribute globally, but with lower biomass density comes the potential to achieve higher-quality output, improving the average quality of our production,” explained Branellec. Digital strategy At the height of the Covid-19 pandemic in 2020 when virtually all in-person interactions were prohibited and travel restrictions were at their strictest, Jewelmer relied on technology to continuously engage with its clients and do business. It launched a series of online auctions – a first for the company. The events were well-received by the trade. Branellec commented, “Through the continued trust and faith in Jewelmer’s sorting, grading, and classification systems, the maison was humbled by the successful results of the virtual auctions. Online events will be a continuing feature of the business alongside the in-person auctions.” Other digital initiatives include services that offer immersive user-friendly experiences on its e-commerce platforms such as virtual jewellery try-ons. In 2020, Jewelmer launched its US-based e-commerce website, and the company is aiming to expand this service to Japan and China soon. A strong and engaging social media presence is another crucial component of Jewelmer’s digital strategy. The company has more than 76,000 followers on Instagram and around 54,000 on Facebook, at press time. Social media platforms serve as avenues to foster virtual connections, noted Jewelmer. Sustainability leader Sustainability has always been at the forefront of Jewelmer’s operations. Its pearl farms in Palawan are testament to its long-term advocacy of marine life and environmental conservation. The farms are located at the centre of the Coral Triangle, which is home to the world’s most diverse marine and coral life. “As pearls can only survive in very pristine environments, they are great indicators of healthy and thriving marine ecosystems,” shared Branellec. “The local communities pledge to safeguard the coastal environment and are cared for through Save Palawan Seas Foundation (SPSF), a non-profit organisation.” Established in 2006 by the founders of Jewelmer, SPSF is aimed at supporting the conservation of marine resources and providing income to its beneficiaries through livelihood projects. Recently, the foundation aided in relief drives for victims of Typhoon Odette in the Philippines in 2021, which heavily damaged coastal areas, resulting in entire households without shelter or access to clean water. Through generous donations, SPSF was able to send relief goods to around 2,000 households. The foundation also recently organised book drives to sponsor students and schools that lack learning materials, community ‘Les Classiques’ earrings and pendant; and ‘Signature’ pendant ‘Les Classiques’耳环和吊坠; ‘Signature’吊坠
PEARL REPORT | 11 | 2022-2023 封面故事 seminars to raise awareness of endangered species around the island, and coastal clean-ups to restore the beauty of the natural white sands of Palawan. “These programmes leave positive and lasting impacts on the land, the sea and the community,” said Branellec. Jewelmer is also proud of another undertaking this year: It designed the La Mer en Majesté crown – an exceptional piece featuring an assortment of golden South Sea Pearls – for the Miss Universe Philippines pageant. A renowned local event that empowers and celebrates Filipino women, it is synonymous with Filipino pride and heritage. Jewelmer designing the crown also coincides with the 75th year of diplomatic relations between France and the Philippines. The crown, made by Filipino craftsmen who were trained in the traditional jewellery techniques of the École du Louvre, showcases the country’s national gem and pays tribute to every Filipino who helped produce it, including pearl farmers. Pearl future According to Branellec, China’s growing interest in South Sea pearls is expected to further strengthen. Chinese consumers’ preference and desire for golden South Sea pearls and their appreciation of the gems motivate Jewelmer to secure a larger share of this booming market. Apart from its Jewelmer boutiques and authorised retailers worldwide, including Japan and Europe, the company is aiming to expand its reach in Southeast Asia. The pearl specialist is also at the forefront of another transformative development in the trade: Rising interest in pearls among a younger generation of buyers. According to Branellec, younger individuals are seeing the unique value proposition of Jewelmer’s pearls as wearable and incredibly versatile gems. Pearls are also appealing more to style-conscious men and have grown to become distinctive menswear accessories and bold fashion statements. “To see that younger buyers are leaning towards more environmentally friendly practices is gratifying and uplifting,” said Branellec. “Furthermore, Jewelmer’s exceptional pieces are selling exponentially well. These rare and one-of-a-kind creations continue to be sought after by passionate collectors who have been longstanding supporters of the brand.” ‘Les Classiques’ earrings and pendant; ‘Signature’ pendant; ‘Caravelles’ bracelets, ‘Mon Secret’ bracelet and ‘Hope Scarf’ ‘Les Classiques’耳环和吊坠‘; Signature’吊坠‘; Caravelles’ 手镯‘; Mon Secret’手镯和‘希望围巾’
PEARL REPORT | 12 | 2022-2023 COVER STORY ‘Les Classiques’ strand; ‘Madame de Pompadour’ ring and earrings; and ‘Goutte d’Or’ bracelet’ ‘Les Classiques’珍珠链‘; Madame de Pompadour’戒指和耳环‘; Goutte d’Or’ 手镯 扎根菲律宾的Jewelmer崇尚珍珠的永恒魅力，并视 之为该行业在经济、政治和环境问题的挑战下稳 步复苏的动力。该公司的两项革命性发展——数字化和 可持续发展，也是令珍珠业取得长远成功的契机。 作为南洋金珠和珍珠首饰的顶级生产商，Jewelmer 誉满全球。在该公司的引领下，以上两个影响深远的概念 正在逐渐融合。他们一直推行可持续发展项目，而随着新 冠疫情和其他主要不利因素带来各种转变，数字化进程 在其发展战略中也日益关键。 Jewelmer执行副总裁兼副首席执行官Jacques Christophe Branellec称：“面对这些挑战，本公司秉持坚 毅的精神，以乐观的态度共同面对不确定性，并视之为宝 贵的学习机会，迈步成长和适应环境。”
PEARL REPORT | 13 | 2022-2023 封面故事 驱动持续发展 多年来，Jewelmer注意到稀有奢侈品在市场上日渐 火红。中国客户向来热衷于投资菲律宾南洋珠和成品首 饰，更是带动需求飙升的支柱。Branellec透露：“我们致 力立足中国市场，希望与当地消费者产生更多共鸣。” 他补充说，在强劲需求的带动下，顶级珍珠的价格已 经回弹，甚至超越前几年的水平。再者，消费者对正品和 价值为本的追求，也在推动业务增长。珍珠已经成为道德 环保实践的象征，市场也越来越接纳这种主张。 “每个人都更关注身边的事物和反思自身的价值观， 并萌生一种渴求，希望多加了解其光顾品牌的产地来源。 人们借着这些珍品获得喜悦，但也积极地探索背后的更 深内涵。”Branellec说。 他又称，Jewelmer的足迹遍及寰宇，预计中美两国将 成为业务增长的核心市场。 应对各种挑战 Branellec表示，自然环境的变化与珍珠的生产和供 应有莫大关联，从而带出保育天然资源的重要性。 对Jewelmer而言，某些环境变化因素会加剧水温波 动、海洋酸化和改变浮游生物的分布，对珍珠产业影响深 远。气候变化更会影响某些批次牡蛎的存活率以及整体 生长速度。总体而言，全球暖化所带来的挑战，使生产珍 珠变得难上加难。 “然而祸兮福之所倚——现在Jewelmer的主要挑战 是全球分销量将会减少，但随着水中生物量密度降低， 便有可能出产更优质的珍珠，从而提升产品的平均质 量。”Branellec解释说。 数字化战略 2020年疫情最严峻的时候，几乎所有面对面的人际 交流都被终止，旅游限制亦非常严格。当时，Jewelmer依 靠科技继续与客户互动营商，更史无前例地推出了一系 列线上拍卖，深受业内欢迎。 Branellec表示：“客户对Jewelmer的珍珠分拣、分级 和分类系统继续给予信任和支持，令线上拍卖因而取得 成功，我们对此深感欣慰。除了现场拍卖之外，我们将会 继续举行线上拍卖。” 该公司的其他数字化方案，还包括在其电子商务平台 上提供身历其境式的用户友好体验，例如是虚拟珠宝试 戴体验。Jewelmer在2020年推出了美国电子商务网站， 目标是将这项服务扩展到日本和中国市场。 建立强大而具吸引力的社交媒体形象，是Jewelmer 数字化转型战略的另一个重要部分。截至本文发稿时，该 公司在Instagram上已拥有超过76,000名关注者，在脸书 上则拥有约54,000名关注者。Jewelmer指出，社交媒体 平台是促进线上联系的途径。 带领可持续发展 可持续发展从来是Jewelmer运营的核心。位于菲律 宾巴拉望的珍珠养殖场，就是该公司长久以来提倡海洋 生物和环境保育的有力证明。养殖场位于珊瑚礁三角区 的中心，是世界上最多样化的海洋生物和珊瑚礁的家园。 Branellec分享道：“由于珍珠只能在最原始纯净的环 境中生存，因此是健康海洋生态系统的重要指标。当地社 区承诺保护沿岸环境，并通过非营利组织‘拯救巴拉望海 洋基金会’(SPSF)获得支援。” SPSF由Jewelmer的创始人在2006年成立，旨在支持 海洋资源的保育工作，其生计项目为受益者提供收入。最 近，基金会向遭受2021年台风奥黛特影响的菲律宾灾民 提供援助，该台风严重破坏沿海地区，导致区内的家庭流 离失所或无法获得清洁水源。多得善长仁翁慷慨解囊，令 SPSF能够向大约2,000户家庭赠送救济物资。 基金会最近还举办了募书活动，以捐助缺乏学习资源 的学生和学校，该会也借着社区研讨会提高人们对该岛 濒危物种的认识，还进行海岸清洁活动，让巴拉望岛的天 然纯白沙滩回复美丽。Branellec说：“这些计划对陆地、 海洋和社区都产生了正面而持久的影响。” Jewelmer还为今年的另一项工作而感到骄傲——他 们采用南洋金珠，为菲律宾环球小姐选美大赛设计了精 致非凡的La Mer en Majesté后冠。该传统盛事致力推崇 及歌颂菲律宾女性，在当地备受敬重，亦令菲律宾人深感 自豪。Jewelmer设计后冠之时，也适逢法国和菲律宾建 交75周年。后冠由接受过卢浮宫学院传统珠宝技术培训 的菲律宾工匠制作，除了展示国宝级珍珠，也向每一位为 制作过程付出过贡献的菲律宾人致敬，包括珍珠养殖者。 珠光宝气的未来 据Branellec称，中国市场对南洋珠的兴趣预计将进 一步提升。中国消费者特别钟情和欣赏南洋金珠的美态， 正促使Jewelmer在这个欣欣向荣的市场获得更大的份 额。Jewelmer除了拥有品牌专卖店，亦与日本和欧洲等 世界各地的授权零售商合作，下一个目标是进军东南亚 市场。这家专门从事珍珠业务的公司，也带领行业展开另 一场变革，推动珍珠买家年轻化的趋势。 据Branellec称，Jewelmer珍珠的独特价值在于容易 搭配且非常多样化，已深受当今的年轻人了解和喜爱。珍 珠也愈发吸引注重时尚的男士，还已发展成为独特的男 士配饰素材，塑造大胆的时尚宣言。 他说：“看到年轻买家倾向更环保的业务实践，真的令 人感到欣慰和振奋。此外，Jewelmer的优秀出品销量亦 大幅增长。这些稀有而独一无二的作品，将会继续受到长 期支持品牌，又充满热忱的收藏家追捧。” All jewellery pieces by Jewelmer 所有珠宝均来自Jewelmer
INSIGHT PEARL REPORT | 14 | 2022-2023 Resilience and innovation in the pearl sector 珍珠行业的坚毅与创新 The pearl industry has proven its mettle in the face of health, economic and political crises, thanks to pearl traders’ ingenuity, inspired by the beloved gem’s enduring allure. 在公共卫生、经济和政治危机下，珍珠行业 仍然展现强韧不屈的精神。业者从珍珠的恒久魅力撷取灵感，展现无限创意。 | Bernardette Sto. Domingo 杜明高 |
睿智角度 PEARL REPORT | 15 | 2022-2023 Pearl farmer seeding a pearl oyster on Friday Island in the remote Torres Strait Islands off northern Australia. Paulharding00 / Shutterstock.com; Pearls from Paspaley | 在澳大利亚北部偏远的托雷斯海峡群岛，珍珠养殖者正在星期五岛上为牡 蛎植入珍珠核。Paulharding00 / Shutterstock.com; Paspaley的珍珠 The world has changed drastically in the past two and a half years amid major health, political and economic headwinds. What remained steadfast though was the market’s insatiable appetite for luxury, including refined pearls and pearl jewellery. International traders, designers and jewellery manufacturers are banking on the pearl’s timeless appeal to fuel market demand amid extraordinary times. Digitalisation played a crucial role in staying in touch with clients and eventually, trading pearls through virtual channels. More educated and sophisticated consumers, especially from the Chinese market, are also fuelling a welcome shift in buying behaviours, which translates to greater appreciation and stronger demand for higher-quality pearls. Pearl jewellery designs, meanwhile, are becoming more and more adventurous, edgy and innovative, placing the pearl’s versatile beauty to the test and earning the admiration of ever-discerning buyers. State of the trade Michael Bracher, executive director of Australia-based pearl specialist Paspaley, said supply of Australian South Sea pearls has remained relatively consistent amid Covid-induced fluctuations in consumer demand. Australia has the longest production lead time, thanks to a longer husbandry period compared with other pearl producers so lower demand had little impact on short-term supply. “As a result, the initial collapse in demand due to Covid did little to impact the short-term supply at the pearl farms,” noted Bracher. “The opposite is also true. Demand is now very strong, but it will be many years before this can have any impact on supply.”
INSIGHT PEARL REPORT | 16 | 2022-2023 By 2023 however, supply could tighten as effects of conservative seeding levels at the onset of the pandemic start to become evident, said Bracher. Companies also had to find ways to meet rising demand and deliver goods to buyers in the face of stringent travel restrictions. Paspaley developed an online auction system and wholesale portal, which have greatly benefited customers since these provide them with additional information, including detailed images and videos of lots. The virtual platforms alsoallowbetter cross-referencing of lots and prices from previous auctions. Paspaley’s clients can access its online stock portal to view single pearls, pairs and strands 365 days a year. Both initiatives provide a valuable service to customers and will be permanent fixtures in the company’s distribution system. Bracher said consumers gravitate towards highquality round and drop or oval-shaped pearls, regardless of size, with major markets China, the US and Europe exhibiting solid growth. “The biggest change is the increased level of sophistication within the Chinese market. They have quickly become well-educated and discerning, which has resulted in better awareness and appreciation of pearl quality,” he revealed. Just as pearl companies are effectively adapting to the new normal, work also carried on for gemmological laboratories. Laurent E. Cartier FGA, head of education at Swiss Gemmological Institute SSEF, said majority of SSEF’s research and work on cultured pearls and natural pearls over the past three years was centred on age dating and DNA fingerprinting of pearls. “We tested several exceptional and historic natural pearls. These techniques brought new information and documentation on the pearls’ age and species to light,” shared Cartier. “We even discovered a new species of natural pearls submitted by a client. This species has never been reported in the jewellery industry – Pinctada persica.” The natural pearl jewellery set consisted of 63 natural pearls – 61 strands and two loose pearls. SSEF said the pearls exhibited an attractive colour, subtly ranging from delicate cream to cream. Radiocarbon dating confirmed they were “historic in age” while further analysis using DNA fingerprinting revealed that one of the pearls was from the Pinctada radiata species (Persian Gulf and Ceylon pearl oyster). Other pearl samples from the set were attributed to another species: Pinctada persica or Pinctada margaritifera persica. “To our knowledge, this is the first time that pearls from Pinctada persica have been reported. To date, this species has only been found exclusively in the Persian Gulf (Ranjbar et al. 2016),” noted SSEF in a case study. Tahitian pearls The Tahitian pearl industry also suffered an immense setback during the pandemic, specifically on the supply side. To combat these challenges, the Tahitian Pearl Association of Hong Kong (TPAHK) is intensifying growth strategies and implementing more dynamic marketing and promotional initiatives. According to TPAHK co-president Johnny Cheng, the pandemic prevented Chinese grafters from travelling to French Polynesia to cultivate pearls. As a result, production sank by more than 30 per cent. This significant drop in supply, particularly of highly sought-after topquality Tahitian pearls, also pushed prices up. Amy Yan, co-president of TPAHK, revealed that round pearls remain the most popular while other sizes bearing decent colours and designs are also well-liked by customers. Buyers have also generally become more cautious when purchasing jewellery. What was selling however were trendy, daily-wear jewellery pieces with subdued designs. Yan further commented, “The opening of borders in China and the rest of the world will pave the way for people to attend international trade shows once again. This in turn could lead to significant growth.”
睿智角度 PEARL REPORT | 17 | 2022-2023 TPAHK recently launched a DIY (do-it-yourself) workshop to teach participants how to make their own Tahitian pearl bracelets. This was well-received in the market, revealed Ida Wong, general manager of TPAHK. More workshops and seminars are in the offing to raise public awareness on Tahitian pearls. Joining the postCovid digital revolution, several Tahitian pearl companies are also incorporating online solutions to their businesses such as virtual bidding systems for pearl auctions. Pearl renaissance Pearl jewellery designers are at the forefront of a pearl revolution, bolstered in part by the fashion industry’s relentless representation of pearls as the gem of the new generation. According to Peggy Grosz, senior vice president at Assael, demand for pearls persisted despite Covid-related upheavals. She said retailers are eager to buy and replenish stocks, based on observations during two US shows that Assael attended in 2021 and 2022, respectively. Buyers were partial to pearl strands of all types as well as uniquely designed pearl jewellery. Assael’s trendy and one-of-a-kind designs that combine pearls with coloured gemstones were highly favoured alongside its Bubble Collection by Sean Gilson for Assael, which featured South Sea and Tahitian pearls. “Rare, exceptional gem-quality pieces are in demand, but I am delighted to say that the high-end consumer has also transitioned to innovative designs,” revealed Grosz. “They also support non-traditional combinations of materials like pearls with petrified wood.” The challenge, she said, is continuously expanding these collections while maintaining perceived value. With increased emphasis on the pearl’s sustainability, enduring beauty and versatility, the price becomes less relevant, the company official said. Assael is working on fresh initiatives to boost market demand, including bringing back and giving a new twist to classic Assael pearl and diamond jewellery pieces. “Pearls with ethically sourced diamonds are always a magical combination. And we are contemporising this illustrious pairing. An example would be our Bubble Diamond necklace by Sean Gilson for Assael. That is just the beginning of this journey,” shared Grosz. The company also started using lesser-known natural saltwater pearls in its latest collections, which garnered positive reviews from the market. Sustainability Cartier of SSEF said sustainability will play an even greater role in the future of the pearl sector, considering the worsening impact of climate change on many sectors. Pearl farmers, as frontliners, need to adapt and innovate. Consumers and brands meanwhile are increasingly sourcing responsible and sustainable materials. “Cultured pearls can meet many of these emerging consumer needs if they are farmed responsibly,” added Cartier. Pearl farm at Halong Bay, Vietnam; Pearl ring by Assael 越南下龙湾的珍珠养殖场; Assael的珍珠戒指
INSIGHT PEARL REPORT | 18 | 2022-2023 过去两年半衍生了健康、政治和经济方面的多重挑战， 令全球发生了翻天覆地的变化。然而市场对奢侈品的 需求保持不变，包括精致的珍珠和珍珠首饰。 在这段非常时期，贸易商、设计师和珠宝制造商极致发挥 珍珠的长青魅力，刺激市场需求。 数字化转型也担当着关键的角色，除了保持从业者与客 户的联系，亦推动了珍珠在线交易。越来越多受过教育和知 性型的消费者，尤其是中国的消费者，也更懂得欣赏优质珍珠 的价值，带动强劲需求，从而促成了购买行为上的积极转变。 与此同时，珍珠首饰设计变得更大胆前卫和创新，证明珍 珠拥有多样化的美，让眼光独到的买家击节赞赏。 Bracher, for his part, said Paspaley’s operations are already sustainable and have been certified by the Marine Stewardship Council (MSC), an independent Londonbased non-profit organisation that sets the highest standards for sustainable fishing. “Pearling already has a very low carbon footprint compared to other industries in the jewellery sector but further reductions are possible with focus and planning,” he noted. With information becoming more accessible to buyers, there is also increasing visibility into the origins of products and their supply chains. “Consumers will become more discerning with their spending decisions. Theywill demandhigher standards of social responsibility. In response to the increasing homogeneity of fashion and accessories, they are also likely to seek out products that express their individuality. This will bode very well for Australian South Sea pearls,” he added. 业内近况 澳大利亚珍珠专家Paspaley的执行董事Michael Bracher 称，尽管新冠疫情引发需求波动，澳大利亚南洋珠的供应仍 然相对地稳定。与其他珍珠产地相比，澳大利亚珍珠的养殖 时间较长，并拥有最长的生产周期。面对市场上需求减少，这 点有助抵消短期的影响。 “新冠疫情初期所导致的需求暴跌，对珍珠养殖场的短 期供应影响甚微。”Bracher指出。“相反地，虽然现时市场需 求相当强劲，但对供应的影响还需要很多年才会呈现出来。” 然而，他表示到了2023年，随着疫情之初，减少植核作业 的影响开始变得明显，供应量便可能会收紧。 在严格的旅游限制下，珍珠企业还须设法满足需求增长， 并确保能向买家顺利交付。Paspaley开发了在线拍卖系统和 批发门户网站，为客户提供拍品的详细图像和视频等额外信 息，令客户受惠良多。 这些虚拟平台还可更方便地与以往拍卖的批次和价格互 相参照。此外，Paspaley的客户也可以前往在线库存门户网 站，在全年任何日子随时查看单颗珍珠、对珠和串珠的资料。 这两项举措都能提供更有价值的客户服务，并将永久设立于 Paspaley的分销系统之中。 Bracher表示，不论产品尺寸，消费者都偏爱优质的圆形、 水滴形或椭圆形珍珠。中国、美国和欧洲市场都呈现持续增 长趋势。他透露：“其中最大的变化是中国市场发展更成熟， 教育水平和品味迅速提升，从而提高了当地对珍珠的认识和 鉴赏能力。” 宝石鉴定所也在逐渐适应新常态。SSEF瑞士珠宝研究院 的教育主管Laurent E. Cartier FGA表示，过去三年SSEF在养 殖珍珠和天然珍珠方面的大部分工作，都集中在珍珠的年代 鉴定和采用DNA指纹识别技术进行种属鉴定。 Cartier分享道：“我们为历史悠久的顶级天然珍珠进行了 检测，当中的技术能够就珍珠年代和种属提供全新信息和佐 证。在客户呈交的样本之中，我们甚至发现了一个新的天然 珍珠品种——Pinctada persica，在珠宝行业前所未闻。” 该珍珠首饰套装包括63颗天然珍珠，其中61颗串成一条 珍珠串，还有两颗散珠。SSEF表示，这些珍珠色调迷人且变化 细腻，由柔和的奶油色到奶油色不等。 研究院采用放射性碳测年法，证实这些珍珠是“历史悠久 的”，而DNA指纹识别技术则显示它们源自Pinctada radiata 物种，即波斯湾和锡兰的珍珠牡蛎。 首饰套装的其他珍珠样本，则属于另一个品种：Pinctada persica或Pinctada margaritifera persica。SSEF在案例研究 中指出：“据我们所知，今次是Pinctada persica珍珠首度公诸 于世。以往该品种仅于波斯湾被发现(Ranjbar等人，2016年)。” 大溪地珍珠 大溪地珍珠产业在疫情期间也遭受了重创。有见及此，香 港大溪地黑珍珠协会(TPAHK)正在巩固发展策略，并推出更
睿智角度 PEARL REPORT | 19 | 2022-2023 积极的营销和促销项目。TPAHK联席会长郑廷伟表示，疫情 令中国养殖者未能前往法属玻里尼西亚培育珍珠，导致产量 骤降超过30%。供应减少导致价格上涨，对深受欢迎的顶级 大溪地珍珠影响特别严重。 另一位联席会长甄秀雯表示，圆形珍珠最受市场爱戴，而 其他色泽迷人而尺寸不同的珍珠也广受青睐。 买家选购首饰时比以往更加谨慎。现时最畅销的产品是 设计简洁时尚、供日常佩戴的首饰。 甄秀雯称：“中国和全球其他地区陆续通关，将为人们重 新参加国际贸易展做好准备，或会令业务显著增长。” TPAHK最近推出了DIY工作坊，教导参与者如何制作大溪 地珠手链。协会总经理黄素珠表示，这项活动在市场上大受 欢迎。协会将举办更多工作坊和研讨会，以提高人们对大溪 地珍珠的认识。几家大溪地珍珠公司也加入后疫情时代的数 字革命行列，实施一系列在线业务方案，例如是用于珍珠拍 卖的虚拟竞投系统。 珍珠复兴时代 珍珠首饰设计师正在发动一场珍珠革命，当中部分的驱 动力源于时尚界将珍珠定义为新一代的瑰宝。 珍珠商Assael的高级副主席Peggy Grosz表示，在新冠疫 情的挑战下，市场对珍珠的需求仍然持续。根据Assael分别在 2021年和2022年参加的两场美国展会的观察所得，零售商对 采购珍珠呈现一定渴求。 不少买家均采购各种类型的珍珠串和设计独特的珍珠首 饰。Assael的大热产品为结合珍珠与彩宝的时尚独特设计，而 由Sean Gilson为品牌设计的Bubble联乘系列，则采用南洋珠 和大溪地珠制作，也广受市场欢迎。 Grosz透露：“稀有的顶尖宝石级作品依然需求甚殷，但观 乎现今高端消费者对创新设计的追求，也令我感到兴奋。他 们还热衷于非传统的物料组合，如珍珠与石化木。” 未来的挑战在于不断扩充系列，同时保持顾客感知价值。 她指出，随着人们越来越重视珍珠的可持续性、恒久美态和 多样化风格，价格的重要性已相对下降。 Assael正在制订全新计划，以刺激市场需求，例如是为经 典的Assael珍珠钻石首饰注入新意，再度推出市场。Grosz分享 道：“珍珠与道德采购钻石是一个奇妙的组合。我们正在考虑 为这个组合赋予簇新的面貌，而Sean Gilson为Assael设计的 Bubble钻石项链就是其中一个例子，也是这段旅程的开端。” 该公司还开始在产品系列中采用知名度较低的天然海水 珍珠，并获得了正面的市场评价。 可持续发展 SSEF的Cartier表示，气候变化的影响日益严重，因此珍 珠行业将会更加重视可持续发展。珍珠养殖者作为前线人 员，必须加以适应趋势和勇于创新。与此同时，消费者和品 牌也购入了更多合乎责任道德和可持续的物料。“如果能够 以负责任的方式养殖珍珠，将可满足新兴消费者的庞大需 求。”Cartier补充道。 Bracher表示，Paspaley现已采取可持续的经营模式，并 已获得海洋管理委员会(MSC)的认证，这家位于伦敦的独立 非牟利组织，为可持续渔业设定了最高标准。他指出：“与珠 宝行业的其他范畴相比，珍珠的碳足迹已经非常低，但如果 可以更集中和有条理地规划，仍然可以进一步减少碳数据。” 由于现今的买家更容易获取信息，产品来源及其供应链 的透明度也日渐提升。他补充道：“消费者在购物时将会作出 更明智的决定，提高对社会责任标准的要求。随着市面上的 时装和配饰风格趋向千篇一律，消费者或许会多加搜罗更能 表达个性的产品。这样对澳大利亚南洋珠来说是一件好事。” Pearl earrings by Assael Assael的珍珠耳环 White pearls 白珍珠
PEARL REPORT | 20 | 2022-2023 DESIGN The evolution of pearls in jewellery is unrelenting. Designers, ever prolific and adventurous, ardently and abidingly curate collections and one-off pieces featuring an enchanting coalescence of pearls, gems and precious metals – each creation more contemporary and alluring than the last. From Japan, a ballerina shoe made entirely of Japanese Akoya pearls is turning heads in the industry for its innovative take on pearl versatility. Other jewellers and major jewellery maisons are also offering fresh styles and gem and diamond combinations that place the pearl at the centre of an inevitable design revolution. PEARLS: Classic charm, contemporary glam 珍珠首饰： 经典魅力，时尚瑰宝 ‘Lotus Leaf Pearl’ ring and brooch with a Tahitian pearl centre gem designed by Jane Ji for Edelweiss Jewellery Co Ltd. The piece was named Tahitian Pearl Award winner and champion in the Open Group / Open Group II category of the Hong Kong Jewellery Manufacturers’ Association Jewellery Design Competition 2021. Photo courtesy of the Tahitian Pearl Association of Hong Kong | “荷珠”戒指及胸针以大溪 地珠为主角，由设计师季佳为香港大宝珠宝有限公司创作。这件作品在2021年香港珠宝制造业厂商会(JMA“) 国际珠宝设计比赛”中荣获大溪地珍 珠特别大奖及公开组/公开组 II 组别冠军。照片鸣谢：香港大溪地黑珍珠协会
PEARL REPORT | 21 | 2022-2023 设计 珍珠在珠宝业持续革新蜕变。勇于创新 而产量甚丰的设计师们，都以迷人的珍 珠、宝石和贵金属创作一个又一个出色 的系列，并成就举世无双之作，每件新作 品都将现代感和魅力逐步推上高峰。有 日本珠宝商以日本海水珠制成一只芭蕾 舞鞋，证明了珍珠这种材质拥有多元化 的慑人美态。其他珠宝商也陆续推出新 颖的款式，以及崭新的宝石钻石搭配，而 珍珠正是这场设计革命的核心瑰宝。 1. South Sea pearl earrings with diamonds by Yoko London; 2. Ring in platinum with white South Sea pearl and diamonds by Tiffany (photo credit: © Tiffany & Co); 3. Ring in 18-karat gold with diamonds and a pearl centre stone from the high jewellery collection of Mateo; 4. Tahitian pearl necklace by Rio Pearl | 1. Yoko London 镶钻南洋珠耳环; 2. 蒂芙尼铂金戒指，镶嵌南洋白珠和钻石 (照片鸣谢：©蒂芙尼); 3. Mateo高级珠宝 系列18K金戒指，镶嵌珍珠和钻石; 4. Rio Pearl的大溪地珠项链 1 3 4 2
PEARL REPORT | 22 | 2022-2023 DESIGN 1. Freshwater pearl pendant in 14-karat yellow gold with diamonds by Mastoloni; 2. Golden South Sea pearl and Sonoran turquoise earrings in 18-karat gold by Assael; 3. ‘Tie &Dior’ necklace in white gold with diamonds, sapphires, Paraiba-type tourmalines and a grey cultured pearl by Dior | 1. Mastoloni钻石配淡水珠14K金吊坠; 2. Assael南洋金珠配索诺兰绿松石18K金耳环; 3. Dior“Tie & Dior”白金项链，镶嵌钻石、蓝宝石、 帕拉伊巴碧玺和灰色养殖珍珠 1 2 3
PEARL REPORT | 23 | 2022-2023 设计 1. ‘Pearl Pointe Shoe’ made of Japanese Akoya pearls carefully curated by Tokyo Pearl Co Ltd. The only one of its kind in the world, the shoe was produced in collaboration with Jewels Co Ltd to celebrate the 100th anniversary of legendary ballerina Anna Pavlova performing the masterpiece dance, The Dying Swan, for the first time in Japan. The Pearl Pointe Shoe was created to fit the foot of world-famous ballerina Shoko Nakamura; 2. Amethyst and pearl earrings by Tayma; 3. Tiffany & Co Schlumberger® Cascade earrings in 18-karat yellow gold and platinum with white and golden South Sea pearls and diamonds (photo credit: Tiffany & Co); 4. Ring in 18-karat gold with a Tahitian pearl centre stone and aquamarine accents by Assael | 1. “珍珠芭蕾舞鞋”采用东京真珠株式会社挑选的日本海水珠制成。这只独一无二的芭蕾舞鞋， 是Jewels Co Ltd为纪念著名芭蕾舞者安娜·帕夫洛娃(Anna Pavlova)，于日本首次出演杰作《垂死的天鹅》百周年而制作的，并以世界著名芭蕾舞者 中村祥子的足子为参考尺寸; 2. Tayma紫水晶配珍珠耳环; 3. 蒂芙尼Schlumberger®系列Cascade 18K金和铂金耳环，镶嵌南洋白珠和金珠及钻石( 照片鸣谢：蒂芙尼); 4. Assael大溪地珠配海蓝宝石18K金戒指 1 2 4 3
PEARL REPORT | 24 | 2022-2023 DESIGN 1 2 3 1. Tiffany & Co Schlumberger® Inverted Petals ring in 18-karat yellow gold and platinum with a golden South Sea pearl and diamonds (photo credit: Tiffany & Co); 2. Freshwater mabé pearl earrings in silver by Tayma; 3. Pink gold ring with diamonds and a cultured pearl focal gem by Dior | 1. 蒂芙尼Schlumberger®系列Inverted Petals 18K金和铂金戒指，镶嵌南洋金珠及钻石(照片鸣谢：蒂芙尼); 2. Tayma淡水半珠银耳环; 3. Dior玫瑰金戒指，镶嵌钻石和养殖珍珠
PEARL REPORT | 28 | 2022-2023 DESIGN ‘Sleek Blush’ pink freshwater pearl and diamond stud earrings in 18-karat gold by Yoko London Yoko London“Sleek Blush”18K金粉色淡水珠配钻石耳钉 丰富多样的时尚珍珠杰作 The luminous pearl is at the centre of artistic movements in the jewellery design sector, with companies offering novelty and sophistication with each new collection. 光彩流溢的珍珠在首饰设计领域开创艺术新潮流，不少全新系列均糅合新鲜感与高雅格调。 Pearl jewellers are taking cues frommodern buyers’ ever-evolving preferences for multifunctional pieces that are not only aesthetically pleasing but provide value for money as well. In most cases, the jewellery has to have resonance with the wearer – either as a symbol of devotion or a memento of survival or strength amid adversity. More meaningful purchases became the norm during and after pandemic-induced lockdowns, shared Michael Hakimian, CEO of Yoko London. Buyers also gravitated towards less ostentatious designs. “We experienced strong demand for jewellery that can be worn daily while still being glamorous,” he noted. “Many people want to invest in these kinds of jewellery as opposed to something that is kept in a safe and only worn occasionally.” Yoko London saw substantial increase in demand for contemporary, everyday pieces, which the company offers as part of its Trend, Sleek and Eclipse collections. Its latest offering, Eclipse, features an enchanting combination of Akoya or freshwater pearls and diamonds in delicate hoops and stackable earrings in 18-karat gold. The collection captures the enigma and mystery of a total eclipse. Versatile and modern pearls
PEARL REPORT | 29 | 2022-2023 设计 Hakimian remarked, “The collection was designed to give the wearer the opportunity to express their unique style by mixing and matching designs.” Yoko London also recently upgraded its bestselling Trend and Sleek collections to include new colour variations. It now offers select designs adorned with resplendent, mesmerising pink freshwater pearls interspersed with diamonds. Buyers can also choose pieces in 18-karat rose gold. The company also updated its Starlight collection, launching a multitude of new designs to expand its wellloved motifs and include smaller, easy-to-wear designs. “The broadening of these collections means customers can express their own style in new and exciting ways,” explained Hakimian. “Our team of designers are constantly reimagining the way people wear pearl jewellery. We have beautiful new collections in the pipeline that will be launched later this year.” With the easing of Covid restrictions in most markets, the company official said buyers are once again investing in one-of-a-kind pearl jewellery pieces, especially in the Middle East. Life events that were postponed during the pandemic are also expected to take place throughout 2022. These are important occasions to wear special jewellery, presenting massive opportunities for jewellery designers. Modern appeal Italian jewellery designer Lia Di Gregorio is giving pearl jewellery an even more contemporary feel, with her nontraditional take on the beloved gem. As a designer, she views the pearls’ innate colour, spherical and geometrical shape, and overall charisma as liberating and inspiring. “I use pearls as solid components of my designs and not merely as precious centre stones,” explained Di Gregorio. “I focus on the concept more than the decoration. This gives my creations a more edgy, modern and standout appeal.” Di Gregorio is making a name for herself among today’s discerning consumers. One iconic element of her designs is the non-traditional placement of pearls in the jewellery. For instance, her Pointillisme ring in 18-karat gold has an Akoya pearl centre gem set below the bridge of the ring, giving the illusion of a “hidden pearl.” The Trasparenze B bracelet in 18-karat gold meanwhile showcases Akoya pearls in varying sizes between two golden bands. “Inverting the position of the pearl or placing it in a way that surprises the wearer or the observer is part of the design conceptualisation that sets my creations apart from others in the market. Hiding the pearls or repositioning them alters the aesthetic concept of every jewellery,” noted Di Gregorio. The jeweller takes inspiration from everyday life as well as art, architecture, people and cultures. When travelling, she also imbibes foreign history, music and tradition to fuel her creative endeavours. Di Gregorio currently works with small concept stores and select shops mainly in Japan, Europe and the US. “I love working with pearls because they can express personal styles in a discrete, delicate way. Fine jewellery, in my opinion, is more interesting when the concept is compelling and the material and workmanship are functional to the central idea,” she remarked. ‘Trasparenze’ ring by Lia Di Gregorio Lia Di Gregorio的Trasparenze戒指 ‘Eclipse’ Akoya pearl and diamond earrings in 18-karat white gold by Yoko London | Yoko London“Eclipse”18K白金海水珠配钻石耳环
PEARL REPORT | 30 | 2022-2023 DESIGN 现代消费者的喜好不断演变，并钟情于多功能而物有所 值的悦目首饰，因而启发珍珠首饰公司革新设计方 向。无论是代表忠诚、生命力或逆境自强的首饰作品，都应与 佩戴者产生共鸣。 Yoko London首席执行官Michael Hakimian表示，在新冠 疫情引发的封锁时期及之后，消费者倾向购买更有意义和内 涵的首饰，也减少佩戴炫耀奢华的设计。 他指出：“我们察觉到客户渴望购买那种可以每天佩戴的 迷人时尚首饰。现在人们都会投资在这类首饰上，而不是那 些长年存放在保险箱内，只会偶尔佩戴的珠宝。” Yoko London窥见市场对日常当代首饰的强劲需求，而 这类产品已成为该公司的Trend、Sleek和Eclipse系列的一 部分。 最新Eclipse系列以海水珠或淡水珠搭配钻石，设计成精 致的圈状和可叠戴的18K金耳环，探索全食天文现象的奥秘。 Hakimian称：“该系列旨在让佩戴者混合搭配设计，表达 她的独特风格。” Yoko London亦将最畅销的Trend和Sleek系列升级，赋予 新颖色调，亮点设计缀以动人的粉色淡水珠和钻石。买家还 可以选择18K玫瑰金款式。 Starlight系列以深受人们喜爱的造型为基础，推出了多个 全新款式，并加入更小巧、更易于配戴的设计。 “这些系列增添了更多单品，让客户以崭新时尚的方式 表达个人风格。”Hakimian解释道。“我们的设计师不断重新 构思珍珠首饰的配戴方式。本公司也将于今年稍后推出美轮 美奂的全新系列。” Hakimian表示，随着大多数市场放宽疫情限制，人们已再 次热衷购买独一无二的珍珠首饰，尤其在中东市场。因为疫 情而延期的人生庆典，也在2022年陆续复办，这些场合正是 佩戴特别珠宝的理想时机，为珠宝商提供了庞大机遇。 摩登魅力 意大利珠宝设计师Lia Di Gregorio采用非传统的手法，使 珍珠首饰更富现代美感。她认为珍珠与生俱来的色泽、圆润 和几何的形态，以至浑然绽放的魅力，令作品呈现自由自在 的气质和灵感。 “我视珍珠为骨干的设计元素，而不仅是一种珍贵的主 石。”Di Gregorio解释道。“对我来说，概念比装饰性更重要， 不但能令作品更前卫摩登，也散发非凡的吸引力。” Di Gregorio越来越受当今的消费者欢迎。她为每颗珍珠 精心策划了一个非传统的镶位，并已成为其作品的招牌元 素。Pointillisme 18K金戒指在桥位下方镶嵌了一颗海水珠， 产生“隐藏的珍珠”的错觉。 Trasparenze B 18K金手镯则于两枚金环之间展示不同大 小的海水珠。 “颠覆珍珠的位置或以新颖的编排缔造惊喜，在我的设 计概念中占据重要位置，也令我的作品在芸芸首饰中脱颖而 出。将珍珠隐藏起来或重新调动位置，可以为每件珠宝的美 学概念带来变化。”Di Gregorio指出。 她的灵感来自日常生活，还有艺术、建筑、人和文化。旅行 的时候，她会汲取外国的历史、音乐和传统精髓，为创作注入 深邃气质。 Di Gregorio与日本、欧洲和美国等地的小型概念店和精 品店合作。她说：“我喜欢制作珍珠首饰，以不张扬而精致的 方式呈现个人风格。引人注目的概念若能搭配合适的物料和 工艺，便能将高级珠宝变得更有趣。” South Sea and Tahitian pearl necklace with diamonds in 18-karat gold by Yoko London | Yoko London 18K金南洋珠及大溪地珠配 钻石项链 ‘Pointillisme’ ring by Lia Di Gregorio Lia Di Gregorio的Pointillisme戒指
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