LAB-GROWN DIAMOND Special 2023 实验室培育钻石特刊 SUSTAINABILITY AND INNOVATION 可持续性和创新 Jewellery High-end branding from Smiling Rocks Smiling Rocks为高端 LGD品牌化铺路 A Publication | May 2023 | US$15
目录 Spotlight 市场聚焦 Rockrush: Multipronged approach to success 08 Rockrush: 多头并进创下佳绩 GoGreen sees dazzling future for lab-grown diamonds 10 GoGreen窥见实验室培育钻石之耀眼未来 Greenlab Diamonds retains edge in sustainable 12 LGD manufacturing Greenlab Diamonds掌握LGD钻石可持续生产之优势 Diamsparkz eyes wider reach for LGD jewellery 14 Diamsparkz锐意扩大实验室培育钻石珠宝市场 Bhanderi’s business grows from strength to strength 16 Bhanderi业务持续壮大 GIA: Ahead of the curve in LGD detection and testing 18 GIA: 引领LGD检测和测试趋势 Cover Story 封面故事 Smiling Rocks paves road to high-end LGD branding 20 Smiling Rocks为高端LGD品牌化铺路 Digest 市场指标 India sees sparkling growth in polished LGD exports 24 印度看好抛光实验室培育钻石的出口亮眼增长 Focus 焦点 Robust demand for lab-grown diamonds 26 实验室培育钻石需求强劲 08 20 24 26 CONTENTS On the Cover 封面 Lab-grown diamond jewellery by Smiling Rocks 所有实验室培育钻饰皆由Smiling Rocks提供
Every care has been taken to ensure the accuracy of the information in the Lab-Grown Diamond Special. However, the publication of such information is at the sole discretion of the publisher. The publisher and the editorial team shall not be held responsible or in any way held liable for any errors, omissions or inaccuracies in this publication, or for any consequences arising therefrom. The contents of this publication are protected by copyright and cannot be reproduced, photocopied, transmitted or posted in any form without the prior written consent of the publisher. 本许公，司不已得尽以力任确何保方《式实翻验印室、培仿育制钻或石转特载刊本》刊所物刊任登何的部内份容之正文确字无或误图。片如。因错漏而引致任何损失，本公司概不负责。本公司保留刊登有关资料的一切权利。版权所有，如未获得本公司事先之书面允 Printed by Asia One Printing Limited,13/F, Asia One Tower, 8 Fung Yip Street, Chai Wan, Hong Kong. 印刷商: 宏亚印务有限公司香港柴湾丰业街8号宏亚大厦13楼 Associate Publisher & Editor-in-Chief Olivia Quiniquini 副出版人及主编 程爱莉 EDITORIAL 编辑部 Deputy Editor Bernardette Sto. Domingo 副编辑 杜明高 Assistant Digital Product Manager William Yick 助理数码产品经理 易昌耀 ADVERTISING 广告部 Assistant Director Christine Sinn 区域营业总监 冼蕙珠 Digital & Sales Manager Ken Chan 数码业务及销售经理 陈赞健 MARKETING 市場推广部 Senior Marketing & Communications Manager Ronny Pang 高级市场及传讯经理 彭秋影 Assistant Marketing & Communications Manager Monica Kwok 市場及傳訊助理經理 郭君寧 Marketing & Communications Executive Vincent Wong 市场及传讯主任 黄志伟 PRODUCTION 制作部 Production Manager Jennifer So 制作部经理 苏丽娟 Senior Designer Eva Kam 高级设计师 甘铭灵 Assistant Event and Media Service Manager Bonnie Law 助理项目及媒体服务经理 罗凤伦 ADVERTISING REPRESENTATIVES 广告代理 China 中国: 广州代表处 胡淑晶 | Tel 电话: (86) 20 8666 0158 Email 电邮: [email protected] Germany 德国: Liz Dobelmann | Tel 电话: (49) 721 384 1881 Email 电邮: [email protected] Italy 意大利: Mauro Arati | Tel 电话: (39) 02048517853 Email 电邮: [email protected] Japan 日本: Nobuaki Nito | Tel 电话: (81) 3 52961020 Email 电邮: [email protected] Taiwan 台湾: Rita Hung | Tel 电话: (886) 2 2738 3898 Email 电邮: [email protected] Thailand 泰国: Anna Vichvech | Tel 电话: (66) 2 036 0500 Email 电邮: [email protected] US 美国: Bonnie Chan | Tel 电话: (1) 347 906 4693 Email 电邮: [email protected] President & CEO - Asia Margaret Ma Connolly 亚洲主席及行政总裁 马颖 Senior Vice President - Asia David Bondi 亚洲高级副总裁 庞大为 Director of Jewellery Fairs Celine Lau 珠宝展览部总监 刘小雯 Published by Informa Markets 出版 1701-1705, China Resources Building, 26 Harbour Road, Wanchai, Hong Kong 香港湾仔港湾道26号华润大厦1701-1705室 Email 电邮: [email protected] JewelleryNet.com
SPOTLIGHT JNA LAB-GROWN DIAMOND SPECIAL 2023 | 8 Hong Kong-based lab-grown diamond manufacturer Rockrush leads LGD advancements on multiple fronts as the company aims to expand its global reach. 香港地区实验室培育钻石 生产商Rockrush积极开拓全球市场，从多角度带领业界发展。 Multipronged approach to success Rockrush: Rockrush is at the forefront of developments in the lab-grown diamond (LGD) space, from product and market expansion to technological innovation and consumer education. The company is aiming to take advantage of manifold growth opportunities in the trade on the back of soaring interest in LGDs, shared Smit Virani, director of Rockrush. He remarked, “We expect Rockrush to further grow in popularity and become more mainstream in 2023 as we offer a wider range of LGD products, including larger stones and more intricate designs.” Rockrush is also taking the lead in consumer education and providing pertinent information about the benefits of buying LGDs and how these compare to natural diamonds. “Technological advances in LGD production will also continue to drive innovation in the industry,” added Virani. “We can expect to see improvements in the quality and consistency of LGDs as well as new techniques for creating unique colours and shapes.” Overall, Virani is anticipating robust business for Rockrush moving forward, with the manufacturer’s online platform playing a critical role in sourcing high-quality LGDs as well as in disseminating LGD education to consumers. Power of brands Major brands are increasingly offering LGD jewellery collections while some, such as Pandora, are now using LGDs in place of natural diamonds. According to Virani, this development impacts the industry in varied ways: Increased competition, improved consumer awareness and greater acceptance of LGDs. Competition is likely to intensify as more players enter the LGD business. This could bolster overall interest in LGDs and demand for better-quality products as companies strive to stand out and capture a larger market share. Renowned brands selling LGD jewellery, meanwhile, could help to “legitimise the sector” and make it more socially acceptable, explained Virani. “This could encourage more people to consider LGDs as a viable alternative to mined diamonds,” he added. “Major brands have a significant marketing and advertising budget, which they can use to educate consumers about LGDs. This 多箭齐发创佳绩
市场聚焦 JNA LAB-GROWN DIAMOND SPECIAL 2023 | 9 Rockrush从研发产品、扩展市场、创新技术和消费者 教育方面着手，引领实验室培育钻石(LGD)领域全 速发展。 董事Smit Virani表示，Rockrush窥见市场对LGD钻石 兴趣飙升，因而希望乘着升势，善用丰厚的增长机遇。他指 出：“我们将提供更多样化的LGD产品，包括尺寸更大的钻石 和更精细的设计，预料Rockrush在2023年会更受欢迎，并融 入行业主流。” Rockrush还领头开展消费者教育，并就着购买LGD的好 处及与天然钻石的比较给予相关信息。 Virani补充道：“LGD钻石的生产技术日益进步，也将继续 推动行业革新前进。我们期望LGD钻石的质量和一致性，以 及创造独特颜色和形状的崭新技术方面均有所提升。” could help dispel some of the myths and misconceptions surrounding LGDs and help inspire consumer interest.” Stronger growth Brilliance and beauty that are comparable to natural diamonds alongside low price points and a sustainability element contribute to the unique allure of LGDs. Rising demand for LGDs is driven by more awareness in the market, noted Virani. Buyers also have at their disposal an expansive range of products in terms of size, colour and clarity, making LGDs an attractive choice for today’s consumers. Most sought-after items however vary depending on a company’s target market as well as consumer preferences. In general, Virani said 1-carat to 5-carat stones are more popular among buyers due to their affordability. Meanwhile, round brilliant cuts as well as colourless and near-colourless LGDs remain highly favoured in the trade. With LGDs steadily gaining traction and market acceptance, consumers are likely to continue purchasing LGDs in larger sizes and special cuts offered by Rockrush. “Buyers are always on the lookout for new varieties and differentiation and thus, we still expect sustained positive response,” added Virani. Rockrush has an extensive LGD inventory, which also includes several 30-carat plus stones. 展望未来，他预期Rockrush的业务将稳步强劲发展，其 线上平台在采购优质LGD钻石和LGD教育方面也会发挥关 键作用。 品牌的力量 各大品牌正陆续推出LGD钻石首饰系列，而潘多拉等品 牌现在更以LGD代替天然钻石。Virani表示，这股趋势将从多 方面影响该行业，包括企业之间竞争加剧，而消费者意识及 市场对LGD的认可度则会相继提升。 越来越多业者进驻LGD行业，将会令竞争更加激烈。这 些公司致力从芸芸竞争者中脱颖而出，占领更大的市场份 额，相信会刺激市场对LGD的兴趣和对优质产品的需求。 据Virani解释，售卖LGD首饰的知名品牌将有助“提升行 业认受性”，更容易被社会大众接纳。 “这样会鼓励更多人将LGD视为开采钻石的可行替代 品。”他补充道。“大型品牌拥有充裕的营销和广告预算，可 以预留部分用作教育消费者，从而消除一些有关LGD的偏见 和误解，以及激发消费者的兴趣。” 强劲发展势头 LGD钻石的瑰丽光彩媲美天然钻石，加上实惠的价格和 可持续性元素，造就了其独树一帜的魅力。Virani指出，市场 意识提高能够推动LGD产品需求。琳琅满目的尺寸、颜色和 净度，也令LGD钻石成为极具吸引力的消费选择。 然而，产品的受欢迎程度亦因目标市场和消费者喜好而 有所差别。Virani认为，1克拉到5克拉的LGD钻石因为价格实 惠，一般来说较受买家欢迎。此外，圆形明亮式切工，以及无 色和近乎无色的品种均属长青产品之列。 随着LGD钻石渐受欢迎和获得市场认可，预期消费者将 会购买更大尺寸和拥有花式切工的Rockrush产品。Virani补 充道：“买家不断寻求新颖品种和独特卖点，因此，我们仍然 预期市场会有持续正面的回响。” Rockrush拥有丰富的LGD库存，当中包括一些30克拉以 上的宝石。 All lab-grown diamond jewellery by Rockrush 所有实验室培育钻石首饰均为Rockrush出品
SPOTLIGHT JNA LAB-GROWN DIAMOND SPECIAL 2023 | 10 Stronger demand for lab-grown diamonds hinges upon the market’s growing penchant for traceable, sustainable and more affordable product options. 市场倾向支持可溯源、可持续和 价钱更亲民的产品，为实验室培育钻石市场带来增长契机。 sees dazzling future for lab-grown diamonds GoGreen Diamonds GoGreen Diamonds is capitalising on soaring market preference for lab-grown diamonds (LGD) while relying on continuous innovation to sustain business growth. According to Rushabh Mehta, director of GoGreen Diamonds, buyers have become more accepting of LGDs since coming out of the pandemic as evidenced by rapidly increasing sales, especially for certain product categories. “We have observed a big difference in acceptance of LGDs post-pandemic,” remarked Mehta. “The volume of LGDs sold has multiplied in both the wholesale and retail sectors. What we are seeing now, particularly in Asia, is growing demand for 1-carat stones in D, E and F colours and VS quality.” Solid market interest Mehta explained that the market has become more receptive to LGDs due in part to a “societal shift” towards a more conscious and environmental focus alongside LGD’s affordability. “Lower price points have transformed what was traditionally a luxury product that only a few can afford into something more accessible,” he added. Continuous consumer education, however, is needed to sustain market growth. Established in 2015, GoGreen Diamonds has made a name for itself in the LGD sector. Majority of its business is focused on the US market, but after the pandemic, demand in China and other Asian countries also started to pick up, shared Mehta. A vertically integrated company, GoGreen Diamonds is able to ensure the quality of every diamond it produces – from growing the rough to the sale and delivery of the finished product to jewellers, giving the manufacturer an “unparalleled level of traceability and quality control.” With a state-of-the-art manufacturing facility in Surat, India, the company is capable of handling large volumes of LGDs. Its inventory includes certified lab-grown diamonds graded by the Gemological Institute of America, the International Gemological Institute and HRD Antwerp. It produces over 10,000 LGDs a month, available in round and fancy shapes with 98 per cent of the stones being triple excellent in cut, symmetry and polish. 窥见实验室培育钻石之耀眼未来
市场聚焦 JNA LAB-GROWN DIAMOND SPECIAL 2023 | 11 LGDs in the future of jewellery The rapid rise in demand for LGDs will only strengthen overtime as the market matures, according to Mehta. He noted, “This is just the beginning. The potential for growth of and demand for LGDs are only going to increase. There is only a small percentage of consumers around the world who can purchase diamond-studded jewellery. We expect this to rise significantly as more people can afford to buy LGD jewellery.” With customers now paying more attention to the origin and environmental impact of the diamond that they are purchasing, LGDs will continue to enjoy a premium status in the trade, added Mehta. Innovation is key to GoGreen’s success. Noting shifts in consumer mindset and rising clamour for more sustainable and traceable products, the company decided to enter the LGD space eight years ago, becoming one of the pioneers in LGD manufacturing. GoGreen was able to refine its LGDs using advanced technology and chemical vapor deposition or CVD methods. Through this technology, the company can now grow fancy colour LGDs and offer a more expansive product range to the market. “We are increasingly cognizant of the detrimental state that our environment is in and, in response, we are now working with renewable energy with the intention of making the diamond-growing process completely carbon neutral,” revealed Mehta. To meet an escalating demand for LGDs, GoGreen is also planning to participate in more international jewellery exhibitions in Asia in 2023. GoGreen Diamonds看准市场对实验室培育钻石 (LGD)兴趣飙升的趋势，并凭借持续创新来维持业 务增长。 GoGreen董事Rushabh Mehta表示，基于销量快速增长， 特别是某些产品类别，可见买家在后疫情时期对LGD钻石接 受程度更高。Mehta指出：“我们观察到疫后市场对LGD钻石 的接受程度大有不同，批发和零售量以倍数增长。我们看到 D、E、F色和VS净度级别的1克拉钻石需求不断上升，尤其是 在亚洲市场。” 市场兴趣日渐浓厚 The company official表示，市场现在更接受LGD钻石的 部分原因在于“社会上的转变”，人们更加关注道德和环保 意识，而LGD钻石的价钱也更容易負担。他补充说：“较低的 价格点将一种本来只有少数人买得起的奢侈品，转变为更 容易获得的消费品。”然而要维持市场增长，也需要持之以 恒的消费者教育。 GoGreen创立于2015年，以美国为主要市场，但Mehta分 享道，疫情后中国和其他亚洲国家的需求也在上升。作为一 家垂直整合的公司，GoGreen兼顾毛坯钻石的生成工序，以 至向珠宝商销售和交付成品等流程，因此能够全面确保LGD 钻石的质量，具有“无比透彻的可追溯性和质量控制水平”。 该公司在印度苏拉特拥有最先进的厂房，能够处理大量 的LGD产品。其库存包括由美国宝石研究院(GIA)、国际宝石 学院(IGI)和HRD Antwerp分级认证的LGD钻石。 GoGreen每月生产超过10,000颗LGD钻石，有圆形和花 式切割可供选择，其中98%在切工、对称性和打磨方面达到 “三优“(Triple Excellent)水平。 LGD在珠宝行业的未来 Mehta表示，随着市场渐趋成熟，快速增长的LGD需求将 会继续攀升。他指出，“这只是个起步阶段。LGD的发展潜力 和需求将会有增无减。全球本来只有一小部分人有能力购 买钻石首饰，但越来越多人买得起LGD钻饰，可能会令这个 数字大幅上升。” Mehta补充说，鉴于客户日趋关注钻石的原产地和对环 境的影响，LGD将继续享有领先地位。 创新发展是GoGreen的成功关键。该公司注意到消费者 在心态上的改变，追求更可持续和可追溯产品的呼声也日 益提高，因此在八年前已进军LGD领域，成为LGD钻石的制 造先驱。 GoGreen采用先进技术和化学气相沉积法(CVD)生产精 良的LGD产品。通过这项技术，该公司现在有能力培育LGD 彩钻，为市场提供更多样化的产品。 “我们越加意识到大自然环境受到严重损害，因此 集中使用可再生能源，使钻石的培育过程完全实现碳中 和。”Mehta透露。 为了满足市场对LGD钻石的庞大需求，GoGreen还计划 在2023年参加更多亚洲地区的国际珠宝展。 Rushabh Mehta, director of GoGreen Diamonds GoGreen Diamonds 董事 Rushabh Mehta
SPOTLIGHT JNA LAB-GROWN DIAMOND SPECIAL 2023 | 12 Greenlab Diamonds’ LGD factory in India Greenlab Diamonds位于印度的LGD钻石工厂 Glowing opportunities in a market that has become more receptive to lab-grown diamonds are fuelling expansion initiatives at India-based Greenlab Diamonds LLP. 市场对实验室培育 钻石的接受程度与日俱增，印度企业Greenlab Diamonds LLP 因而把握闪亮机遇，成就拓展大计。 retains edge in sustainable LGD manufacturing Greenlab Diamonds Greenlab Diamonds LLP is gearing up for brighter prospects in the lab-grown diamond (LGD) industry on the back of significantly growing consumer demand. The India-based company said plans are underway to ramp up its monthly production capacity to meet an anticipated jump in LGD orders, disclosed Sanket Patel, director of Greenlab Diamonds. It currently manufactures approximately 200,000 carats of rough LGD via chemical vapor deposition (CVD) per month. “The industry has seen an influx of investments from venture capitalists and tech companies, which in turn, have driven innovation and acceptance of LGDs,” noted Patel. “Growth in e-commerce and a shift in consumer buying habits have also enabled more people to access and purchase LGDs.” Alongside a planned increase in LGD production is Greenlab Diamonds’ commitment to research and development to further raise the profile of LGDs globally. Greenlab Diamonds is a major source of CVD diamonds of 2 carats and up in 3ex (triple excellence) cut and LGD jewellery. Armed with over five decades of diamond manufacturing expertise, the company successfully transitioned from natural to lab-grown diamonds. Sustainability initiatives According to Patel, being sustainable is a company’s way of giving back to nature and helping rejuvenate the ecosystem. Greenlab Diamonds is at the centre of sustainable programmes in the LGD space. “We plant a tree for every LGD that we create,” noted Patel. “We likewise ensure that our standards and policies result in minimising our environmental impact through our manufacturing procedures and supply chains. There is no room for greenwashing.” Greenlab Diamonds is investing in programmes that allow consumers to recycle and repurpose their LGD 掌握LGD钻石可持续生产之优势
市场聚焦 JNA LAB-GROWN DIAMOND SPECIAL 2023 | 13 jewellery. It is also implementing a waste-reduction initiative that requires reusing materials at its factory whenever possible. Even water is recycled, thereby reducing water consumption and reliance on local water resources. The company also uses eco-friendly packaging materials like recycled paper and biodegradable plastic. Carbon-neutral methods are similarly employed in its facilities. “We work tirelessly for a sustainable business that nourishes the people and the planet,” shared Patel. “We harness clean energy using solar power through our 25-megawatt solar and 10-megawatt wind power plants, which run for 365 days without any interruptions.” Greenlab Diamonds works closely with its suppliers to ensure adherence to ethical and sustainable distribution practices. It conducts regular audits and provides transparency in its operations by sharing information on sourcing, manufacturing processes and environmental impact. Committed to a global effort to address climate change, the company has signed the United Nations Framework Convention on Climate Change pledge to cut greenhouse gas emissions. It has also been audited and listed in the US Green Building Council LEED rating system for its green building concept. Business growth Patel expects stronger growth in the LGD sector, owing to rising consumer preference for ethical and sustainable jewellery, higher disposable income and increasing awareness about the environmental benefits of LGDs. Technological advancements in production have likewise made LGDs more affordable and accessible. “LGDs also offer more design flexibility than mined diamonds as they can be grown in a variety of shapes, sizes and colours," he continued. The challenge is to continue innovating and developing new technology to modernise processes and improve LGD quality. Patel added, "The sector must likewise keep on educating consumers on the differences between mined and lab-grown diamonds, so they can make informed buying decisions.” 展和消费者购买习惯的转变，也让更多人能够接触和购买 LGD产品。” 除了计划增加LGD产量外，Greenlab Diamonds还致力进 行研发工作，以进一步提升LGD钻石在国际间的地位。 Greenlab Diamonds是2克拉及以上3EX(三优等级)切工 CVD钻石和LGD钻饰的主要供应商。该公司凭借超过50年的 专业钻石生产知识，已从天然钻石业务成功转型至实验室 培育钻石。 可持续发展举措 据Patel所称，可持续发展是Greenlab Diamonds回馈大 自然和修复生态系统的方式，而该公司正处于LGD可持续进 程的核心。 “我们每制造一颗LGD钻石，便会栽种一棵树。”Patel 说。“同样地，我们也通过一连串专业标准和政策，确保生 产程序和供应链尽量减少对环境 的影响。我们不会容许任何洗绿的 行为。” Greenlab Diamonds为新计划投 放资源，让消费者能够回收和重新 打造LGD钻饰。该公司还实施减废 计划，要求辖下的工厂尽可能重复 使用物料。甚至水也得以循环利用， 从而减少用水量和对当地水资源的 依赖。此外，他们还使用环保包装材 料，如再生纸和可生物降解塑料，并 将碳中和策略应用于企业设施中。 “为了建立可持续的业务形式， 我们不遗余力，令人类和地球均受 裨益。”Patel分享道。“我们的25兆 瓦太阳能发电站和10兆瓦风力发电 站，可以连续365天无间断运行，源 源不绝地产生清洁能源。” Greenlab Diamonds与供应商密 切合作，以确保在分销流程上遵守 道德和可持续原则。该公司定期进 行审计，并通过分享采购、生产工序 和对环境影响的信息来提高运营透明度。 为了应对气候变化，他们还签署了《联合国气候变化框 架公约》，承诺减少温室气体排放，借此成为全球力量的一 分子。其绿色建筑概念经过审核后，也被列入美国绿色建筑 委员会LEED评分认证系统。 行业蓬勃发展 Patel预计LGD行业将呈现更强劲的增长势头，原因是消 费者更加推崇合乎道德和可持续原则的珠宝、可支配收入 增加，以及他们对LGD钻石的环境效益逐渐加深认识。生产 技术上的进步，同样使LGD钻石价格更实惠和更容易购买。 他补充：“LGD钻石可以培育成各种形状、尺寸和颜色， 设计灵活性比开采钻石更高。另外，在可追溯性方面，由于 LGD钻石是在实验室中生成，因此可以沿着整个供应链彻 底溯源。” 现在，行业所面对的挑战在于持续创新和开发崭新技 术，令生产流程更现代化和提升LGD钻石的质量。“随着行 业不断发展，消费者将继续选购更符合责任标准的LGD钻 石。此外，行业必须继续就开采钻石和实验室培育钻石之 间的区别向消费者进行教育，帮助他们作出更明智的购买 决定。” 随着消费者的需求显著增加，专注生产实验室培育 钻石(LGD)的Greenlab Diamonds LLP正准备就 绪，迎接更璀璨的行业前景。Greenlab Diamonds 的董事SanketPatel透露，这家总部位于印度的公司积极提 升月产能，以满足预期大增的LGD订单数目。 该公司目前使用化学气相沉积(CVD)技术，每月生产大 约200,000克拉的LGD毛坯钻石。 Patel指出：“行业得到风险资本家和科技公司注入资金， 因而推动了科技创新和LGD钻石的认受性。电子商务的发 Sanket Patel, director of Greenlab Diamonds LLP Greenlab Diamonds LLP董事Sanket Patel
SPOTLIGHT JNA LAB-GROWN DIAMOND SPECIAL 2023 | 14 All lab-grown diamond jewellery pieces by Diamsparkz 所有实验室培育钻石首饰为Diamsparkz出品 The New York-based jeweller aims to raise the profile of sustainable, reasonably priced lab-grown diamonds as the modern consumer’s jewellery of choice. 这家总部设于纽约的珠宝 商致力推广具可持续性、价格合理的实验室培育钻石(LGD)首饰，使其成为现代消费者心仪的选择。 随着买家愈发追求具可持续性和更实惠的产品， LGD在国际首饰行业有着亮丽的前景。根据 Diamsparkz公司创始人Raj Vaidya表示，其品牌 正以这些工作為核心。 近年来，LGD首饰在市场上逐渐占有一席之地，有越来 越多的买家选择以其作为送礼之选。Vaidya解释说：“人们对 LGD首饰的兴趣日益增加。LGD跟天然钻石一样美丽，但价 格更实惠。” 消费者逐渐意识到开采钻石对环境的影响，并选择以 LGD作为一种合乎道德、可持续的替代品，这亦是LGD首饰 需求飙升的原因。Vaidya补充说，由于LGD比天然钻石价格 相宜，有更多消费者具购买LGD首饰的能力。 拓展市场 Diamsparkz正在抓紧市场对LGD首饰有增无减的热 情。Vaidya表示，公司正在推出新的LGD首饰系列，扩展其现 有产品之余，并满足顾客不断变化的需求。Diamsparkz还将 提供更多元化的价格。 “纵然我们的LGD祼钻系列表现出色，但我们明白 到专注于首饰领域，让消费者更能负担得起产品的重要 性，”Vaidya透露。“我们的目标是让更多消费者能够购买得 起LGD首饰，我们可以通过扩大我们的首饰系列，并使它们 的价格更相宜来实现这个目标。” 为市场提供多元化的LGD首饰选择不仅是Diamsparkz 的增长战略，还有助于打造更具可持续性和合乎道德标准 的钻石行业。 “我们的愿景是扩展我们的业务，且为全球更多客户提 供服务，”Vaidya分享道。“在未来五年，我们计划在世界各地 开设新的办事处，让我们能够接触到更广泛的受众，为我们 的客户提供更优质的服务。” 他透露，Diamsparkz还将推出包含不同形状、尺寸和颜 色的LGD祼钻新系列，以满足市场各式各样的需求。 Lab-grown diamonds (LGDs) have a sparkling future in the international jewellery sector as buyers increasingly seek sustainable and more affordable options. And Diamsparkz is at the centre of these efforts, according to company founder Raj Vaidya. Over the years, LGD jewellery started to gain ground as a preferred gift for special occasions, supported by the market’s growing fascination for LGDs. Vaidya explained, “There is rising interest in LGD jewellery. LGDs are just as beautiful as natural diamonds but more affordable.” Soaring demand can also be attributed to consumers becoming more conscious of the environmental impact of mining and choosing LGDs as an ethical, sustainable alternative. Since they are more affordable than their natural counterparts, LGDs are likewise more accessible to more consumers, he added. Market expansion Diamsparkz is capitalising on the market’s growing penchant for LGD jewellery. Vaidya said the company is unveiling new LGD jewellery collections to expand its current offerings and cater to customers’ ever-evolving needs. Diamsparkz will also offer broader price points. “While our loose diamond collections are doing great, we recognise the need to focus on the jewellery segment and make it more affordable for consumers,” revealed Vaidya. “Our goal is to make LGD jewellery accessible to a wider audience and we can achieve this goal by expanding our jewellery collections and making them more affordable.” Providing the market with an extensive range of LGD jewellery choices is not only a growth strategy for Diamsparkz but will also contribute to a more sustainable and ethical diamond industry. “Our vision is to expand our presence and serve more customers across the globe,” shared Vaidya. “Over the next five years, we plan to open new offices around the world, which will allow us to reach a wider audience and better serve our customers.” Diamsparkz is also introducing new collections of loose fancy-shaped LGDs in different sizes and colours to meet the market’s diverse needs, he disclosed. Diamsparkz eyes wider reach for LGD jewellery 锐意扩大实验室培育钻石珠宝市场
SPOTLIGHT JNA LAB-GROWN DIAMOND SPECIAL 2023 | 16 All photos from Bhanderi Lab Grown Diamonds 所有照片由Bhanderi Lab Grown Diamonds提供 Encouraged by buyers progressively gravitating towards lab-grown diamonds, Bhanderi is setting its sights on dazzling expansion opportunities in the trade. 在买家对实验室培育钻石的喜好持续增长的趋势下， Bhanderi将迎来闪烁的扩张机遇。 Bhanderi’s business grows from strength to strength 多年来，因应消费者对实验室培育钻石(LGD)加深 了解及对负责任生产的商品愈发感兴趣，LGD 的需求呈现指数级的增长。印度的Bhanderi Lab Grown Diamonds便是推动这些发展趋势的行业先驱之一。 Bhanderi主席Ghanshyam Bhanderi透露，快速增长的 LGD需求为市场带来了蓬勃的发展商机。他援引行业报告 称，LGD市场预计将在2021至2028年间增长6.4%，到2028 年将达到95亿美元。有见及此，该公司计划在未来三到五年 内，把月产能大幅提高至每月“数千甚至数万克拉”。 据Ghanshyam说，这将让Bhanderi不仅可以满足珠宝行 业的LGD需求，还可以应付工业和科学应用的需求。 零售业务通过产品品牌化也有增长的潜力。Ghanshyam 表示：“在业务战略上，我们可能会推出新的LGD珠宝品牌， 扩大产品线并吸引更广泛客户。我们也可能会打造符合品 牌身份的LGD珠宝系列，以迎合目标受众的喜好。” 话虽如此，品牌建设需要周密的规划、研究和实践，还 有在推出LGD珠宝品牌后的综合营销和分销战略，他继续 说道。 浓厚的兴趣 Ghanshyam指出，目前圆形明亮式、公主方形和祖母绿 式切割的LGD最为抢手。买家也对较大的LGD感兴趣，其中1 克拉到3克拉最受欢迎。 “这是因为人们通常把较大颗的钻石与奢华和地位联 想在一起，它们经常用于订婚戒指和其他高端珠宝首饰，” 他解释道。“就质量而言，客户一般会选择净度和颜色出众 的LGD。” Demand for lab-grown diamonds (LGDs) has risen exponentially over the years, thanks to stronger consumer awareness and mounting interest in responsibly produced goods. At the centre of these developments are pioneers in the LGD trade such as India’s Bhanderi Lab Grown Diamonds. Company chairman Ghanshyam Bhanderi revealed that this rapid growth in LGD demand has brought about glowing business opportunities. Citing industry reports, Ghanshyam said the LGD market is expected to grow by 6.4 per cent between 2021 and 2028 to US$9.5 billion by 2028. In response, the company is planning to significantly ramp up its monthly production capacity within the next three to five years “in the range of thousands or even tens of thousands of carats” per month. According to Ghanshyam, this would allow Bhanderi to cater to the LGD needs of not only the jewellery sector but also in industrial and scientific applications. There is also potential for growth in the retail business through product branding. Ghanshyam remarked, “Introducing a new LGD jewellery brand could be a strategic move for us to expand our product line and appeal to a wider range of customers. We might also work on creating a range of LGD jewellery collections that align with the brand's identity and cater to the preferences of our target audience.” Brand building, however, requires careful planning, research and execution, as well as a comprehensive marketing and distribution strategy following the launch of an LGD jewellery brand, continued the company official. Solid interest LGDs in round brilliant, princess and emerald cuts are currently the most sought-after in the trade, according to Ghanshyam. Buyers also look for larger stones, with 1-carat to 3-carat stones being the most popular. “This is because larger diamonds are often associated with luxury and status, and they are regularly used in engagement rings and other high-end jewellery pieces,” he explained. “In terms of quality, customers generally look for higher-quality stones with excellent clarity and colour.” 业务持续壮大
SPOTLIGHT JNA LAB-GROWN DIAMOND SPECIAL 2023 | 18 All photos from GIA 所有照片由GIA提供 GIA’s lab-grown diamond report GIA实验室培育钻石鉴定报告 The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) stays at the forefront of advancements in lab-grown diamond production as it intensifies its transparency and consumer protection strategy. GIA美国宝石研究院通过加强透明度和保护消费者战略，一直处于实验室 培育钻石生产进步的前沿。 GIA: Ahead of the curve in LGD detection and testing 随着实验室培育钻石(LGD)以前所未有的数量涌入 市场，GIA美国宝石研究院正进一步增强其LGD 分级和鉴定能力，以巩固消费者的信任和信心。 GIA执行副总裁兼鉴定所和研发部首席执行官Tom Moses透露，他们的目标是增加市場上附带GIA报告的实验 室培育钻石的数量。 “我们的报告设计集中在消费者和零售商认为最重要 的信息——4C和钻石是天然还是实验室培育的，”Moses说。 2023年1月，GIA推出了更新及更经济的实验室培育钻石 报告——Dossier，此优化版报告报告删除了后期生长处理培 育类型选项，内容更精简，费用更经济，而所有重要数据都 齐全。同时，GIA为天然钻石和LGD而设的AGS Ideal Report， 则可测量和评估钻石的光性能表现、比例和修饰（包括对称 性和打磨）。 LGD发展 Moses解释培育技术不断改进，让买家现在可选择不同 尺寸、颜色和质量的LGD，款式林林总总。他补充说，“虽然有 这些发展，但天然钻石和LGD截然不同的形成方式，让GIA能 够百分百把它们区分出来。” 凭借过去数十年的研究，GIA的宝石学家和科学家采用 先进仪器以检查和分析LGD。这使GIA能够领先任何LGD生 产和鉴定方面的新趋势或发现。 LGD的未来 消费者对LGD作为天然钻石之外的另一选择的接受程度 与日俱增，并正在推动市场，但适当地披露LGD的资料对于 他们做出明智的购买决定是至关重要的。 关键在于选择附有由信誉良好的鉴定所，Moses评论道。 他补充说：“随着产量增加，LGD将跟随其他人造宝石的发展。 具创意的珠宝商会找更多方法把它们应用在设计中。最近， 我们留意到LGD的培育质量正在上升，而生产成本则下降。” With an unprecedented influx of lab-grown diamonds (LGDs) in the market, the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) is further augmenting its LGD grading and identification capabilities to better protect consumer trust and confidence. The goal is to increase the number of LGDs offered in the trade that come with GIA reports, revealed Tom Moses, executive vice president of GIA. “We tailor our reports to focus on the information that consumers and retailers find most important – the 4Cs and whether the diamond is natural or laboratory-grown,” continued Moses. In January 2023, the institute introduced a lower-cost Laboratory-Grown Diamond Report-Dossier, which is a revised version of the report that no longer includes the growth method or post-growth treatments, thereby reducing fees. Meanwhile, GIA’s AGS Ideal Report, which is available for natural diamonds and LGDs, measures and assesses the performance, proportions and finish – including symmetry and polish – of a diamond. LGD developments Citing continuous improvements in growth technology, Moses explained that LGDs are now available in a broader variety of sizes, colours and qualities that buyers can choose from. He added, “Even with these advances, the vastly different ways in which natural and LGDs form allow GIA to differentiate them with 100 per cent certainty.” GIA gemmologists and scientists employ advanced instrumentation, backed by decades of research, to examine and analyse LGDs. This allows GIA to stay ahead of any new trends or discoveries in LGD production and identification. Future of LGDs Wider acceptance of LGDs as natural diamond alternatives is fuelling sales in the market but proper disclosure is critical for consumers to make informed buying decisions. The key is choosing a gemstone that comes with a report from reputable laboratories such as GIA, remarked Moses. He added, “LGDs will follow the path of other manmade gems as volumes grow, and creative jewellers find more ways to use them in designs. Recently, we have seen both an improvement in growth quality and a decrease in the cost to produce LGDs.” 引领LGD检测和测试趋势
COVER STORY JNA LAB-GROWN DIAMOND SPECIAL 2023 | 20 | Bernardette Sto. Domingo 杜明高 | A leading name in the lab-grown diamond sector, Smiling Rocks is further elevating LGDs’ luxury status through one-of-a-kind designs while highlighting their relevance in the quest for business ethics and sustainability. 作为实验室 培育钻石(LGD)领域的领先品牌，Smiling Rocks正在通过独一无二的设计进一步提 升LGD的奢华地位，同时强调对商业道德和可持续性的追求。 paves road to high-end LGD branding Smiling Rocks New York-based Smiling Rocks is once again blazing trails in lab-grown diamond (LGD) circles by effectively repositioning LGDs as an emerging luxury jewellery option. The company is hoping to achieve this through product innovation and market expansion as well as green initiatives, revealed Smiling Rocks CEO Zulu Ghevriya. Furthermore, Smiling Rocks is establishing itself as a high-end LGD jewellery brand and a topquality designer that offers progressive, inventive LGD jewellery collections as a way to further enhance LGDs’ standing in the trade. “This has been our goal from day one and all our efforts are being directed towards this,” shared Ghevriya. “Smiling Rocks will continue to create aesthetic designs to attract new generations of buyers and introduce fresh trends in the market.” In response to rising demand for LGDs, the company is also actively expanding its retail network and boosting its international footprint. Its major market is the US, but it has successfully built a solid customer base in Europe, Japan and South Korea. Ghevriya remarked, “The brand is expanding globally. We extended our retail network from over 500 to more than 650 by end-2022.” Smiling Rocks为高端LGD品牌化铺路
封面故事 JNA LAB-GROWN DIAMOND SPECIAL 2023 | 21 Jewellery of the future Smiling Rocks is launching more than 20 new collections in June this year, featuring signature styles and new designs. Since its inception in 2019, the company has made a name for itself as a premium supplier of LGD bridal jewellery, including a highly sought-after line of men’s engagement rings that it unveiled in 2022. According to Ghevriya, the men’s engagement ring campaign, headlined by the Zulu Collection, was well-received in the trade and is now considered one of the brand’s most iconic collections. “This collection is representative of the founders’ vision to promote design trends for men’s jewellery,” the company official said. “This is one of the most exciting product lines that we introduced last year. Almost all our retailers ended up buying it.” Banking on steady demand, Smiling Rocks said it will reinvent, update and expand the Zulu Collection every year to meet consumers’ evolving needs. The jeweller is launching new men’s engagement rings in 2023 to refresh the collection. With leading brands now offering their own LGD jewellery lines, consumer awareness and interest are bound to strengthen over the coming years, noted Ghevriya. “We have seen premium brands such as Pandora and Breitling, to name a few, enter the LGD business,” he continued. “The catalyst for this is an emerging desire among today’s consumers for sustainable and responsibly produced goods, which companies are prepared to satisfy. LGDs have a solid sustainability narrative that the market cannot ignore.” Ghevriya said the LGD sector is poised to become increasingly mainstream as more and more major brands and jewellery manufacturers jump on the LGD bandwagon. This ongoing development is expected to impact consumer confidence in LGDs in a positive way and further bolster demand for LGD jewellery. Sustainable choice Transparency and accountability have always been at the core of Smiling Rocks’ operations. The company was founded by Ghevriya and his brother Manish Jiwani as a contemporary LGD jewellery brand, with sustainability and philanthropy as pillars. From the outset, Smiling Rocks has advocated for clear and transparent supply chains and ethical business operations, inspired by shifting societal conventions. According to Ghevriya, younger generations are becoming ever more partial to sustainable practices when choosing products and making buying decisions. “We mainly cater to this buyer demographic whose values align with their purchasing behaviours,” he explained. “They have a higher level of empathy for the people and the planet, which influences the products and services that they are willing to invest in.”
COVER STORY JNA LAB-GROWN DIAMOND SPECIAL 2023 | 22 总部设于纽约的Smiling Rocks通过有效地将实验室培育钻石(LGD)重新定位为新兴的奢 华珠宝，再次在LGD业界开辟新天地。Smiling Rocks首席执行官Zulu Ghevriya透露，该公 司希望通过产品创新、市场扩张，以及绿色倡议来实现这一目标。 此外，Smiling Rocks正锐意将公司打造为高端LGD珠宝品牌，并提供设计非凡、创意无限的LGD 珠宝系列，进一步提高LGD在行业内的地位。 Ghevriya分享道：“从第一天起，这就是我们的目标，所有的努力都朝向这一目标。Smiling Rocks 将继续创造瑰丽的设计，以吸引新一代的买家，并在市场上引入新趋势。” 鉴于LGD的需求不断上升，该公司也在积极扩大其零售网络并提升其国际影响力。公司的主要 市场是美国，但是已经在欧洲、日本和韩国成功奠定坚实的客户基础。Ghevriya评论道：“我们的品 牌正在向全球扩张，在2022年底已将零售网络从500多个销售点扩展到的650多个。” 未来珠宝 今年6月，Smiling Rocks将推出20多个具有标志性风格和新设计的新系列。自2019年成立以来， 该公司已成为LGD婚庆珠宝的顶级供应商，并在2022年推出备受追捧的男士订婚戒指系列。 In response, companies must now be accountable for their actions and vigilant in how their products are sourced and manufactured. Smiling Rocks is also leading initiatives on this front. Ghevriya said the company has obtained the coveted Butterfly Mark certification, an independent, globally respected mark of trust awarded by Positive Luxury to luxury brands, retailers and suppliers that meet the highest standards of verified ESG+ (Environmental, Social, Governance and Innovation) performance. Smiling Rocks is also certified by business sustainability ratings provider Ecovadis on its ESG+ framework. Most recently, Smiling Rocks has been certified as an SCS Global Services Accredited Diamond Handler, which means the brand meets all requirements stipulated in SCS-007 Jewelry Sustainability Standard – Sustainably Rated Diamonds protocols. “We remain steadfast in our sustainability agenda as proven by our third-party certifications and audits. Our journey to becoming a sustainable and ethical brand continues,” noted Ghevriya. Smiling Rocks participated in an ocean-cleaning movement in 2022, which it continues to support. So far, the initiative has helped remove more than 30,000 pounds of trash in the sea, in collaboration with US-based 4ocean. This year, the company is in the process of establishing a digital education framework aimed at helping schools that do not have the resources to teach digital literacy to children. Smiling Rocks has established three digital libraries in rural areas in India. The goal is to be able to set up 100 digital libraries in the future. Ghevriya said, “We want children in rural schools and villages to receive the education and training that they need to face an increasingly digital world and ensure a promising future for them and their families.”
封面故事 JNA LAB-GROWN DIAMOND SPECIAL 2023 | 23 据Ghevriya介绍，以Zulu系列为首的男士订婚戒指推介活动在业界广受好评，如今已经被认为 是该品牌最具代表性的系列之一。 他说：“这个系列代表创始人推动男士珠宝设计趋势的愿景，这是我们去年推出的最令人兴奋 的产品系列之一，几乎我们所有的零售商都购入了。” 鉴于稳定的需求，Smiling Rocks称将每年重构、更新和扩大Zulu系列，以满足消费者不断变化的 需求。该珠宝商将在2023年推出新的男士订婚戒指，以更新该系列。 Ghevriya指出，随着领先品牌推出LGD珠宝系列，消费者的意识和兴趣在未来几年内必将加强。 他补充道：“我们已经看到潘多拉和百年灵等高端品牌开展LGD业务，主要是由于这些企业希 望满足当今消费者对可持续和负责任生产的商品的渴求。LGD有坚实的可持续发展叙事，市场毋庸 忽视。” Ghevriya说，随着越来越多的大品牌和珠宝制造商加入LGD的行列，LGD行业将日渐成为主流。 这种持续的发展预计将以积极的方式影响消费者对LGD的信心，并进一步支持对LGD珠宝的需求 。 可持续的选择 透明度和问责性一直是Smiling Rocks运营的核心。该公司由Ghevriya和兄长Manish Jiwani创 立，是一个以可持续性和慈善事业为支柱的当代LGD珠宝品牌 。 从创建时期，Smiling Rocks就受到社会习俗转变的启发，倡导清晰透明的供应链和道德化的商 业运作。据Ghevriya介绍，年轻一代在做出购买决定时，越来越偏向于可持续发展的践行。 他解释说：“我们主要迎合这些价值观与购买行为相一致的买家群体。他们对人和地球更有同 理心，从而影响他们愿意消费的产品和服务。” 作为回应，公司现在必须对其行为负责，并对其产品的采购和生产方式保持警惕。Smiling Rocks也在引领这方面的举措。Ghevriya说，该公司已经获得了业界趨之若鶩的蝴蝶标志认证，这是 一个独立的、受全球尊重的信任标志，由Positive Luxury公司授予那些在ESG+(环境、社会、治理和 创新)的表现经核实为达到最高标准的奢侈品牌、零售商和供应商。 Smiling Rocks还获得了商业可持续发展评级机构Ecovadis的ESG+框架认证。最近，Smiling Rocks经过认证，成为SCS全球服务认证钻石处理商，这意味着该品牌符合SCS-007珠宝可持续发 展标准——可持续评级钻石协议中规定的所有要求。Ghevriya指出：“我们仍然坚定不移地执行可持 续发展议程，这一点已被第三方认证和审计所证明，并会继续致力打造一个可持续和重视社会道德 的品牌。”Smiling Rocks参与了2022年的海洋清洁运动，并继续支持这一运动。至今，该倡议通过与 美国4ocean公司的合作，已经协助清除超过3万磅的海洋垃圾 。 今年，公司正在着手建立一个数字教育框架，旨在协助那些缺乏向儿童教授数字知识的资源的 学校。Smiling Rocks已经在印度的农村地区建立了三家数字图书馆，并设定建立100家数字图书馆 的目标。Ghevriya说：“我们希望农村学校和村庄里的儿童接受所需的教育和培训，以面对日益数字 化的世界，并确保儿童和他们的家庭有光明的前景。” All lab-grown diamond jewellery by Smiling Rocks 所有实验室培育钻饰皆由Smiling Rocks提供
DIGEST JNA LAB-GROWN DIAMOND SPECIAL 2023 | 24 Polished lab-grown diamonds 已打磨实验室培育钻石 Photo by 摄影： Johnny (Chak Wan) Leung (GIA) Lab-grown diamond ring from Helzberg Diamonds® 的实验室培育钻戒 Vivien Johnston Glass Size of the largest chemical vapor deposition (CVD) lab-grown diamond seen by the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) as of May 2023. The emerald-cut stone produced by Ethereal Green Diamond in India was evaluated by GIA’s laboratory in Hong Kong as VS2, G colour. It is 111 per cent bigger than the previous record holder, a 16.41-carat CVD diamond GIA saw in 2022. 截至2023年5月，美国宝石研究院(GIA)鉴定过最大的化学 气相沉积(CVD)实验室培育钻石的尺寸。这颗由印度生产商 Ethereal Green Diamond制造的祖母绿式切割钻石，经GIA的 香港地区鉴定所评估为VS2净度等级和G色。旧纪录保持者是 一颗重16.41克拉的CVD钻石，由GIA在2022年进行鉴定，刷新 纪录的钻石比前者大111%。 34.59 carats克拉 可持续发展领袖 Lab-grown diamonds used in rêve™, a collection launched recently by US-based retailer Helzberg Diamonds®. Helzberg Diamonds has become the first jewellery retail chain in the US accredited by SCS Global Services to offer LGDs certified under the strict SCS-007 Jewelry Sustainability Standard. 美国零售商Helzberg Diamonds®最近推出的rêve™系 列，全面采用第三方评级实验室培育钻石。Helzberg Diamonds所提供的LGD钻石，根据SCS-007珠宝可持续 发展标准进行严格认证，已成为美国第一家在这方面获 得SCS Global Services认证的珠宝连锁零售店。 100% third-party rated LGDs 100%第三方评级LGD钻石 Year-on-year jump in India’s exports of polished lab-grown diamonds (LGDs) from April 2022 to March 2023 to US$1.6 billion from US$1.3 billion, the Gem & Jewellery Export Promotion Council reported. India currently accounts for 15 per cent of global LGD production, the council revealed. The International Grown Diamond Association (IGDA), a US-based non-profit organisation, has named industry expert Vivien Johnston Glass as sustainability chair. She is tasked to oversee IGDA’s initiatives on consumer education and disseminating accurate information on sustainability as an evidence-based concept. Johnston Glass has over 20 years of experience in the jewellery sector and is adept in the responsible sourcing of precious metals, diamonds and gems. 根据宝石和珠宝出口促进委员会(GJEPC)的数据显示，印度实验室培育钻 石(LGD)从2022年4月到2023年3月的同比出口升幅。其出口额从13亿美 元跃升至16亿美元。该委员会透露，印度目前占全球LGD钻石产量的15%。 美国非营利组织——国际培育钻石协会(IGDA)最近任命行业专家Vivien Johnston Glass为新任可持续发展主席。她将 负责监督IGDA在消费者教育方面的举措，并以实证为基础，宣扬有关可持续发展的准确信息。Johnston Glass在珠宝 行业拥有超过20年的经验，对贵金属、钻石和宝石的责任采购范畴了如指掌。 27.85% Sustainability leader
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