焦点 JNA LAB-GROWN DIAMOND SPECIAL 2023 | 27 Silver ring with a 0.15-carat lab-grown diamond from the Diamonds by Pandora collection 镶嵌了0.15克拉实验室培 育钻石的银戒指，来自Diamonds by Pandora系列 High Jewelry ring in 14-karat white gold from Smiling Rocks, with 80 marquise, round and cushion-cut lab-grown diamonds weighing a total of 7.70 carats Smiling Rocks高级珠宝系列14K白金戒指，镶嵌80颗橄榄形、 圆形和枕形切割实验室培育钻石，共重7.70克拉 Butterfly ring with lab-grown diamonds by Vever Vever实验室培育钻石蝴蝶戒指 By all accounts, consumer demand for lab-grown diamonds and jewellery is on an upward trajectory, driven mainly by their sustainability narrative, relative affordability and enhanced presence on the international stage, among others. The category is steadily developing its own niche in the gem and jewellery market, particularly in the US where demand is currently greatest. According to market analytics firm Tenoris, consumers are showing a greater appetite for larger lab-grown diamonds. The April 2023 Tenoris report by diamond industry analyst Edahn Golan stated, “Over the last few years, especially since the Covid lockdowns, consumers’ lab-grown diamond purchases gravitated away from the traditional. At present, they are preferring higher colours and clarities, but even more so towards larger lab-grown diamonds.” Tenoris data indicated that US lab-grown diamond jewellery sales in March 2023 went up 57.6 per cent year-on-year in terms of units and 37.2 per cent in terms of value. “In March, there was a rise in lab-grown diamond inventory, up 5 per cent. Retailers not only seem to maintain greater confidence in lab-grown diamonds, but they are also realigning their purchases to their expected sells,” Golan said in the report, noting that the share of oval-shaped lab-grown diamonds is consistently rising, at the expense of rounds. Average retail price also increased by 2.4 per cent month-on-month. Golan attributed this to the rise in demand and memo supply as well as the shift to larger lab-grown diamonds. The average size of loose lab-grown diamonds sold rose from 1.79 carats in February to 1.82 carats in March. Sales of larger lab-grown diamonds – notably in the 4- and 5-carat range – are on the rise. According to Golan, the day will come when majority of loose diamonds sold by US specialty retailers will be lab-grown diamonds. He remarked, “At this pace, this will happen within a few months and before the year-end.” Jewellery consultancy firm The MVEye also noted growing acceptance of lab-grown diamonds among US consumers. In its research on US-based consumers’ gifting preferences for Valentine’s Day 2023, it noted that 25 per cent of respondents intended to give fine jewellery as a gift. Almost all the jewellery would have gemstones, with 38 per cent opting for mined diamonds and 16 per cent for lab-grown diamonds. In this group, a larger percentage of women, at 28 per cent, chose lab-grown diamonds versus 8 per cent of men. “Many women see lab-grown diamond as their jewellery of choice for gifts,” said Liz Chatelain, president of The MVEye. “The wide assortment and price points have given them greater opportunity to give fine jewellery in recent years.” Brand activities Greater mainstream presence of lab-grown diamonds is also giving the category a healthy boost. Pandora caused quite a stir in 2021 when it announced its shift to lab-grown diamonds in grand fashion. Soon after, it released its Pandora Brilliance collection of lab-grown diamond jewellery in the UK. The brand deepened its commitment to the cause in August 2022 with the launch of its Diamonds by Pandora category of lab-grown diamond jewellery in the US and Canada. Pandora Brilliance once again headlines this range with 33 pieces comprising rings, bangles, necklaces and earrings with lab-grown diamonds of VS+ quality set in silver, yellow gold or white gold. Prices start from US$300 and each stone weighs 0.15 to 1 carat. The collection's flagship product is a 1-carat lab-grown diamond set in a 14-karat gold ring.
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