目录 Spotlight 市场聚焦 LGD Summit 2022: Your Future in Lab-Grown Diamonds 08 论坛日程安排及内容简介 Fenix Diamonds ups the ante on LGD sustainability 10 Fenix Diamonds 提升培育钻石之可持续性 Caraxy grows “love forest” to build green credentials 12 培育钻石先驱凯丽希蕴育"爱的森林"以践行绿色承诺 Game Changers 突破常规 Pushing boundaries in the lab-grown diamond world 14 实验室培育钻石业屡创佳绩 GIA leads LGD grading and identification 16 GIA 推动培育钻石分级和鉴定发展 Smiling Rocks highlights design and innovation 17 Smiling Rocks 以设计与创新为宗旨 Rockrush blazes a trail in the lab-grown space 18 培育钻石专家Rockrush 另辟新径 ZS-Tech scores LGD breakthroughs 20 征世科技于培育钻石业成就斐然 Classic Grown Diamonds steps into LGD limelight 22 Classic Grown Diamonds 跻身LGD 业界焦点 Ningbo Crysdiam spearheads innovation 24 宁波晶钻锐意创新 Diamspark’s vibrant lab-grown diamond future 26 Diamspark 以实验室培育钻石创造光辉未来 Market Indicators 市场指标 Next-gen consumers and LGDs 28 新一代消费者与实验室培育钻石的关系 Focus 焦点 Dazzling prospects for lab-grown diamonds 30 实验室培育钻石前景璀璨 08 14 28 30 CONTENTS
Every care has been taken to ensure the accuracy of the information in the Lab-Grown Diamond Special. However, the publication of such information is at the sole discretion of the publisher. The publisher and the editorial team shall not be held responsible or in any way held liable for any errors, omissions or inaccuracies in this publication, or for any consequences arising therefrom. The contents of this publication are protected by copyright and cannot be reproduced, photocopied, transmitted or posted in any form without the prior written consent of the publisher. 本公司已尽力确保《实验室培育钻石特刊》所刊登的内容正确无误。如因错漏而引致任何损失，本公司概不负责。本公司保留刊登有关资料的一切权利。版权所有，如未获得本公司事先之书面允 许，不得以任何方式翻印、仿制或转载本刊物任何部份之文字或图片。 Printed by Asia One Printing Limited,13/F, Asia One Tower, 8 Fung Yip Street, Chai Wan, Hong Kong. 印刷商:宏亚印务有限公司香港柴湾丰业街8号宏亚大厦13楼 Associate Publisher & Editor-in-Chief Olivia Quiniquini 副出版人及主编程爱莉 EDITORIAL 编辑部 Deputy Editor Bernardette Sto. Domingo 副编辑杜明高 Assistant Digital Product Manager William Yick 助理数码产品经理易昌耀 ADVERTISING 广告部 Assistant Director Christine Sinn 区域营业总监冼蕙珠 Digital & Sales Manager Ken Chan 數碼業務及銷售經理陈赞健 Sales Manager Donald Chow 銷售經理周嘉鸿 MARKETING 市場推广部 Senior Marketing & Communications Manager Ronny Pang 高级市场及传讯经理彭秋影 Senior Marketing & Communications ExecutiveGrace Tam 高级市场及传讯主任谭淑恩 Marketing & Communications ExecutiveVincent Wong 市场及传讯主任黄志伟 PRODUCTION 制作部 Production Manager Jennifer So 制作部经理苏丽娟 Senior Designer Eva Kam 高级设计师甘铭灵 Assistant Exhibition and Media Service Manager Bonnie Law 助理展览和媒体服务经理罗凤伦 ADVERTISING REPRESENTATIVES 广告代理 China 中国: 广州代表处胡淑晶 | Tel 电话: (86) 20 8666 0158 Email 电邮: [email protected] Germany 德国: Liz Dobelmann | Tel 电话: (49) 721 384 1881 Email 电邮: [email protected] Italy 意大利: Mauro Arati | Tel 电话: (39) 02048517853 Email 电邮: [email protected] Japan 日本: Nobuaki Nito | Tel 电话: (81) 3 52961020 Email 电邮: [email protected] Taiwan 台湾: Rita Hung | Tel 电话: (886) 2 2738 3898 Email 电邮: [email protected] Thailand 泰国: Anna Vichvech | Tel 电话: (66) 2 036 0500 Email 电邮: [email protected] US 美国: Bonnie Chan | Tel 电话: (1) 347 906 4693 Email 电邮: [email protected] President & CEO – AsiaMargaret Ma Connolly 亚洲主席及行政总裁马颖 Senior Vice President – AsiaDavid Bondi 亚洲高级副总裁庞大为 Director of Jewellery FairsCeline Lau 珠宝展览部总监刘小雯 Published by Informa Markets 出版 1701-1705, China Resources Building, 26 Harbour Road, Wanchai, Hong Kong 香港湾仔港湾道26 号华润大厦1701-1705 室 Email 电邮: [email protected] JewelleryNet.com
SPOTLIGHT JNA LAB-GROWN DIAMOND SPECIAL 2022 | 8 Demand for lab-grown diamonds is soaring, driven by its modern narratives and appealing value in price and size. Sponsored by X Diamond and organised by Informa Markets Jewellery, this summit highlights growth prospects in the lab-grown diamond space by examining successful branding, product, design and business strategies to engage key consumer markets. It identifies business opportunities for retailers, professional trade buyers, jewellery designers and brands in the lab-grown diamond scene and shares how they can successfully market lab-grown diamonds and jewellery to today’s discerning consumers. 性价比高的实验室培育钻石，以现代化的理念和故事为基础，令市场需求持续飙升。国际培育钻石峰 会由X Diamond赞助，Informa Markets Jewellery主办，透过剖析主要消费市场的品牌、产品、设 计和业务策略，探讨培育钻石的发展潜力。零售商、专业买家、珠宝设计师和品牌均可借着峰会了解 他们在实验室培育钻石业的商机，并认识如何向眼光独到的现今消费者成功推广培育钻石和钻饰。 Date 日期: August 16, 2022 Time 時間: 2pm – 5pm Shenzhen 深圳 Venue 地点: Sheraton Shenzhen Futian Hotel 深圳大中华喜来登 Language 語言: English and Mandarin, with subtitles or simultaneous interpretation 英语和普通话，带字幕或同声传译 Moderator 主持: Dr. Miro Ng 吴飞洋博士, Founder and President 创始人兼总裁 Centre for Gemmological Research Keynote Session: Branding for Success in the Lab-Grown Diamond World 专题演讲：建立成功实验室培育钻石品牌 The keynote session reveals branding and marketing strategies to successfully unlock business opportunities in the lab-grown diamond sector. It showcases marketing, product and distribution strategies of leading jewellery brands, discusses the importance of branding for lab-grown diamond jewellery, and looks at growth areas in the branded labgrown diamond jewellery space. 这场主题演讲专为零售商和买家而设，讨论实验室培育钻石的品牌及战略，并阐释各种业务契机。国际领先珠宝品牌分 享营销，产品及分销战略，探讨建立品牌的重要性，剖析实验室培育钻石首饰吸引现今消费者的主因。 Speakers 演讲嘉宾 Nick Smart Commercial Director 商业总监 Lightbox Anthony Tsang CEO and Founder 创始人兼首席执行官 The Future Rocks LGD Summit: 国际培育钻石峰会 Your Future in Lab-Grown Diamonds 缔造您的璀璨未来
市场聚焦 JNA LAB-GROWN DIAMOND SPECIAL 2022 | 9 LGDs for Gen Zs 为Z世代而设的实验室培育钻石 This session assists LGD players in marketing lab-grown diamonds to Gen Z shoppers – a major consumer force in today’s market – by examining their consumption habits, retail expectations and preferences. It examines the appeal of lab-grown diamonds among younger consumers, shares values-based marketing strategies that resonate with next-gen customers, and identifies retail opportunities to sell lab-grown diamonds to Gen Z shoppers. 本环节将帮助零售商了解现今重要的Z世代 (1995-2009年出生的年轻人) 的消费习惯、期望和喜好。深入探讨实验室培 育钻石在年轻消费者中的吸引力，分享能与新一代客户产生共鸣的价值观，从而制定相关的营销策略，并透视向 Z 世代 消费者推销实验室培育钻石的商机。 Speakers 演讲嘉宾 Profits in the LGD space 实验室培育钻石的业务利润 This session highlights LGD jewellery’s strengths and margins, presents viable marketing strategies and shares retail best practices to enlighten the trade on how to turn this category into a profitable segment of their business. It discusses the market positioning of lab-grown diamonds for fine and fashion jewellery and examines margins and pricing in the LGD jewellery product segment. 本环节将探讨实验室培育钻石业务的优势，讲解各种可行的营销方案，并分享最佳零售实践经验，从而协助零售商把实 验室培育钻石发展成为有利可图的生意。嘉宾还会探讨实验室培育钻石于高级/时尚首饰的市场定位，零售商售卖实验 室培育钻石的成功例子，并分析实验室培育钻石于珠宝首饰市场的价格定位及利润。 Speakers 演讲嘉宾 Sponsor 赞助商 X Diamond invites modern women to explore infinite possibilities with intelligent and visionary designs. The Singaporebased lab-grown diamond jewellery brand integrates Eastern and Western cultural aesthetics. Its fashion-forward jewellery collections produced using cutting-edge processes cater to modern women who enjoy the finest things in life. X Diamond is bringing its unique, daring perspective on design and innovation to the international market, making its intricate yet affordable jewellery available to consumers around the world. X Diamond 鼓励现代女性以巧妙而富前瞻性的设计，探索无限的可能性。这个新加坡培育钻饰品牌结合东西美学元素， 系列流露时尚风采，并采用先进技术制造而成，迎合现代女性的奢华品味。现在，X Diamond 将独特果敢的设计与创新 宗旨带进国际市场，为世界各地的消费者呈献价格适中的精致钻饰。 Aven Li 李亚威女士 President 总裁 X Diamond Emily Yey 叶羿女士 Partner and Director of Merchandise, Lusant 露璨合伙人、商品负责人 Zulu Ghevriya CEO & Co-Founder 首席执行官和联合创始人 Smiling Rocks Nelson Liu 刘迩苏先生 VP & COO, Venti Jewelry 珠宝副总经理，首席运营官 Ren Liu 刘韧先生 Co-Founder, Light Mark 小白光联合创始人 Yiliu Pu 浦奕柳女士 Founder 创始人 ANOTA Vivian Chen 陈晓燕女士 Partner, Yuyuan Inc and Executive President & Chief Product Officer, Yuyuan Jewelry & Fashion Group 豫园股份合伙人，豫园珠宝时尚集团执行总裁、首席产品官 Leon Guo 郭升先生 Founder, Caraxy Grown Diamonds 凯丽希CARAXY董事长 Kidd Gao 高云鹏先生 Vice President of Sales – Asia Pacific, Signity 升丽婷亚洲区销售副总裁
SPOTLIGHT JNA LAB-GROWN DIAMOND SPECIAL 2022 | 10 US-based Fenix Diamonds has bolstered the sustainability element of its premium-quality lab-grown diamonds by obtaining an international accreditation and upgrading its LGD narrative. 美国Fenix Diamonds透过国际认证和卓尔不凡的 培育钻石敍事，巩固其优秀出品的可持续性。 UPS THE ANTE ON LGD SUSTAINABILITY FENIX DIAMONDS Fenix Diamonds has steadily gained prominence in the lab-grown diamond (LGD) space since its inception in 2018, thanks to responsible business practices, ethically produced stones and its relentless desire to continuously innovate in the LGD field. The company recently obtained the SCS-007 Jewelry Sustainability Standard – Sustainability Rated Diamonds certification from SCS Global Services, making it a globally accredited producer and handler of “Certified Sustainability Rated Diamonds.” According to SCS, this certification standard, which applies to both natural and lab-grown diamonds, establishes unprecedented benchmarks of performance and transparency, featuring stringent environmental, social and governance achievement; climate neutrality; sustainable production practices with net zero impact; comprehensive origin traceability for the highest possible source-to-market certainty; and sustainability investments that support vulnerable communities. All these are backed by independent, third-party certification. “We passed a comprehensive SCS environmental, social and governance audit with an A+ rating for origin traceability, ethical stewardship, verified climate neutrality, sustainable production practices and sustainability investments,” Fenix Diamonds revealed. “Diamonds can also contribute to a greener and more 提升培育钻石之可持续性 | Bernardette Sto. Domingo 杜明高 |
JNA LAB-GROWN DIAMOND SPECIAL 2022 | 11 sustainable tomorrow. That is why we are taking a stance – becoming accountable for our carbon footprint and providing consumers with transparency and a more sustainable option.” To further boost its sustainability narrative, Fenix Diamonds introduced the “5th c” of diamond quality, in addition to colour, clarity, cut and carat. The new c, which stands for “choice,” supports the notion of empowering modern buyers to make informed decisions when purchasing LGDs or mined diamonds, the company said. “Through years of innovation and scientific development, we are able to offer the consumer a new choice – a genuine alternative to mined diamonds,” it noted. “Fenix Diamonds is that new choice, whether your customer is looking for a large-sized or a fancy shape lab-grown diamond, or an exquisite fancy blue LGD.” Sparkling innovation Fenix Diamonds operates a certified carbon-neutral facility in India where it grows an expansive range of ready-to-ship LGD inventory that includes round labgrown diamonds as well as fancy shapes such as trillions, pears, ovals, emerald-cuts, princess and baguettes, to name a few. All shapes are cut and polished to specific ratios to maximise brilliance, fire and sparkle. It also runs a lab-grown diamond jewellery retail business. The company’s core products are 0.25-carat to 4-carat lab-grown diamonds of D-H colours and VS2 and above clarity grades in round and fancy shapes. It also offers commercial lab-grown diamonds of H-I-J colours and fancy blue LGDs. “On demand, production of special sizes and fancy shapes and colours is another of Fenix Diamonds’ fortes,” it added. “We can customise our production strengths to meet your exact needs.” Lab-grown diamonds bearing top colours and clarity grades are highly sought after and command a premium, according to Fenix Diamonds. Its stones are graded and certified using the same standards as mined diamonds by independent laboratories. The company also offers third-party laboratory certification for its lab-grown diamonds above 0.50 carat. 自2018年创办以来，Fenix Diamonds于实验室培 育钻石(LGD)领域实践负责任商业行为和道德 钻石生产，并不断创新，因而在行业的地位日 渐攀升。最近，该公司获SCS Global Services颁发“SCS- 007珠宝可持续发展标准——可持续发展等级钻石”认 证，成为全球认可的“经认证可持续等级钻石”生产及处 理商。SCS称，该认证适用于天然及实验室培育钻石，在产 品素质和透明度方面建立了前所未有的基准，当中涵盖 严格的环境、社会和管理规范；气候中和；净零影响可持 续生产；全面溯源及实现“来源到市场”的最高确定性； 以及支持弱势社群的可持续发展投资。以上项目均获独 立第三方认证。 Fenix Diamonds透露：“我们通过了全面的SCS环境、 社会和管理审计程序，在溯源、道德管理、气候中和验证、 可持续生产实践和可持续投资方面获取A+评级。另外， 钻石亦可缔造更环保、更可持续的未来。因此我们为碳 足迹问责，为消费者提供更具透明度和可持续性之选。” 为了进一步提升可持续叙事，Fenix Diamonds在颜 色、净度、切工和克拉以外引入“第五个C”，代表“选择”， 借此支持当今买家在购买LGD或天然钻石时作出精明 抉择。该生产商表示：“经过多年的创新和科技发展，我们为 消费者提供了一项能真正替代开采钻石的崭新选择，为 您的客户提供大尺寸或花式切割培育钻石，甚至是优质 培育蓝钻。” 璀璨创意 Fenix Diamonds在印度的碳中和生产厂房建立了大 型LGD钻石库存，包括圆形及花式切割培育钻石，如三角 形、梨形、椭圆形、祖母绿式、公主方形和狭长方形等。所 有形状均按特定比例切割和打磨，令亮度、火彩和闪烁度 极致提升。该公司同时经营培育钻饰零售业务。 核心产品为0.25至4克拉，D至H色和拥有VS2及以上 净度的圆形和花式切割实验室培育钻石，亦有提供H、I、J 色商业级培育钻石和彩蓝LGD钻石。公司补充：“我们的 另一强项是按需生产特殊尺寸、花式切割和颜色的LGD 钻石，就着您的确切需求作出调整。” Fenix Diamonds称，具有顶级颜色和净度的培育钻 石备受追捧，而且价值不菲。其出品采用与天然钻石相等 的标准于独立鉴定所进行分级和认证。该公司还为0.50 克拉以上的LGD钻石提供第三方鉴定所认证。 All images courtesy of Fenix Diamonds 照片由Fenix Diamonds提供
SPOTLIGHT JNA LAB-GROWN DIAMOND SPECIAL 2022 | 12 | Julius Zheng 郑嵘 | Chinese lab-grown diamond jewellery brand Caraxy puts sustainability and growth at the heart of its operations with a project to combat desertification in northwest China. 中国培育钻石珠宝品牌凯丽希(Caraxy)以可持续发展和成长作为其运营核心， 在中国西北地区开展植树治理沙漠化的公益项目。 GROWS "LOVE FOREST" TO BUILD ITS GREEN CREDENTIALS CARAXY Caraxy is a trailblazer inChina’s lab-grown diamond sector. Founded in 2015, it was the first to retail lab-grown diamonds in the country and the first China-based company to become a member of the International Grown Diamond Association. Caraxy now scores another first with its 2022 ESG (Environmental, Social, Governance) project to combat desertification. In northwest China, desert sands are engulfing farmlandsand towns.TheMinqinCounty inGansuProvince is bound by the Tengger and the Badain Jaran deserts – China’s third and fourth largest deserts, respectively – on the east, west and north. The oasis, once a natural barrier between the two seas of sand, is now shrinking as the deserts increasingly encroach on its borders. As part of its new ESG project, Caraxy has joined the decade-long endeavour to build a buffer zone between cultivated areas and the deserts to preserve the oasis. For each piece of lab-grown diamond jewellery it sells, a saxaul tree is planted in the Caraxy Love Forest in Minqin County. Typically one to nine metres high, saxauls are shrub-like trees native to deserts where it stabilises sand by accumulating soil around its roots. Saxauls are known as “desert guardians” for their vital role in combatting desertification. The project extends to its packaging policy as well. While Caraxy uses eco-packing materials, customers who forego the outer package for their purchases get the right to name a saxual tree in the Caraxy Love Forest. They are given a picture of the tree with a sign bearing their name and special messages. 培育钻石先驱凯丽希蕴育“爱的森林” 以践行绿色承诺
市场聚焦 JNA LAB-GROWN DIAMOND SPECIAL 2022 | 13 All images courtesy of Caraxy 照片由Caraxy提供 Caraxy Founder Leon Guo said, “We will maintain our ESG project for the foreseeable future to meet our target of planting 100,000 saxaul trees in the forest." Sustainability in the lab-grown sector should extend beyond its products. ESG should be embraced and underpin daily operations to enact positive change for the industry and society while offering consumers more choices for jewellery, he continued. Brand pillars Sustainability and growth indeed are the cornerstones of Caraxy’s brand philosophy. It invites customers to “Grow Your Love” with its jewellery, a concept reflected in the very nature of its product. The beauty and brilliance of Caraxy grown stones are the result of cutting-edge technique and exceptional focus during the growing process; the same is true for eternal love, which is nurtured with care and dedication over time. Caraxy draws design inspiration from nature, with its creations representing the company’s commitment to beauty and environmental protection. Flora and fauna themes such as flowers, vines and butterflies come to life in distinctive lab-grown diamond jewellery in a variety of colours and precious metals. The brand sells its lab-grown diamond jewellery on e-commerce platforms and brick-and-mortar shops. Essentially "Greenhouses to grow love," its physical stores provide an informative, immersive and engaging customer experience that helps consumers understand lab-grown diamonds and decide on their purchase. A virtual try-on function and a physical try-on toolkit meanwhile enhance the online shopping experience, enjoining more customers to buy online. In 2019, Caraxy partnered with the International Gemological Institute (IGI) to launch Caraxy x IGI labgrown diamond grading reports for all its stones over 0.30 carat, providing clear visual brand recognition. The certificate is bundled with a speedy resale service and free upgrades to maintain the financial value of Caraxy's lab-grown diamonds. 通常有一到九米高，是沙漠原生灌木状树木，根部有强大 的固沙能力。梭梭树被称为“沙漠卫士”，因为它们在防治 沙漠化方面发挥着重要作用。 该公益项目也延伸到公司的包装材料。尽管凯丽希使 用生态包装，但是愿意放弃外包装,同时希望进一步支持 环保的顾客将可以获得一棵梭梭树的署名和留言权。顾 客会得到插上爱心小牌的梭梭树照片作为回报。 凯丽希创始人郭升说：“我们将在可预见的将来坚持 这个ESG项目，以实现在凯丽希爱的森林中种植100,000 棵梭梭树的总目标。” 他补充道，培育钻石行业应该将可持续发展的思考超 越产品本身，将ESG的理念根植于培育钻石企业的各种 经营活动中，推动行业和社会产生积极变化，同时为消费 者提供更多美丽的珠宝新选择。 品牌支柱 可持续性和成长是凯丽希的品牌哲学。 品牌鼓励顾客通过培育钻石珠宝表达“让爱成长”的 观念, 这一种细水长流的爱情观也与培育钻石本身的可 持续发展理念相符。凯丽希培育钻石的华美璀璨源于杰 出的工艺和生长过程中的悉心呵护；永恒的爱情也是如 此，是通过无微不至的关怀和奉献培养出来的。 凯丽希从大自然中汲取设计灵感，其作品代表了该公 司对美和环保的承诺。在各种颜色的实验室培育钻石和 贵金属的衬托下，花卉、藤蔓和蝴蝶等造型的珠宝都变得 栩栩如生。 该品牌通过线上平台和实体店销售其培育钻石珠宝。 实体店以“让爱成长的钻石温室”为概念，提供信息丰富、 沉浸式和引人入胜的服务，让客户深入了解培育钻石，并 作出最后的购买决策。同时，数字化虚拟试戴功能和实物 试戴工具包增强了线上购物体验，让更多消费者可以在 品牌的线上渠道达成交易。 2019年，凯丽希与国际宝石研究院(IGI)进行了联名 合作，推出了CARAXY x IGI联名培育钻石证书，品牌30分 以上的培育钻石均附有该证书, 与市场上其他流通的培 育钻石形成了明显的视觉差异化。品牌提供的一些专属 服务也和这个联名证书进行了强绑定，其中包括快速转 售服务和免费升级服务，让凯丽希的培育钻石能相对维 持其金融价值。 凯丽希（CARAXY）是中国实验室培育钻石领域的 先锋。公司成立于2015年，是第一家在国内从 事培育钻石零售业务的公司，也是国际培育钻 石协会在中国的首家会员企业。今天，凭借其2022年的 ESG（环境、社会、治理）项目，凯丽希又迈出了培育钻石 的另一个第一步——治理沙漠化。 在中国西北部，沙漠正在吞噬农田和城镇。甘肃省民 勤县的东、西、北三面被腾格里沙漠和巴丹吉林沙漠—— 中国第三和第四大沙漠包围。这片绿洲曾经是两片沙海 之间的天然屏障，如今随着沙漠对其边界的日益侵袭而 不断缩小。 作为其ESG新项目的一部分，凯丽希加入了造林固土 治沙工作已有十多年，在耕地和沙漠之间建立了一个缓 冲区，保护当地的绿洲。 凯丽希承诺每出售一件实验室培育钻石珠宝，就会在 民勤县的“凯丽希爱的森林”里种下一棵梭梭树。梭梭树
GAME CHANGERS JNA LAB-GROWN DIAMOND SPECIAL 2022 | 14
突破常规 JNA LAB-GROWN DIAMOND SPECIAL 2022 | 15 Inventive specialists and related suppliers are harnessing the power of creativity and innovation to bring to market distinctive lab-grown diamond products that resonate with the consumers of today. Jewellers are weaving modern brand narratives centred on sustainability and philanthropy; manufacturers are extending technological frontiers to produce superior lab-grown diamonds; and ancillary enterprises are offering products and services to significantly increase consumer confidence in the sector. 饶富创新思维的培育钻石业专家和珠宝业供应商，将创意和创造力极致发 挥，造就一系列别具特色的产品，并与新兴消费群引起共鸣。珠宝商以可持 续发展和慈善道德为核心，编织出时尚的品牌故事；生产商的科技与日具 进，推出品质超群的实验室培育钻石；而辅助企业则透过提供相关的产品 和服务，大大增强消费者对行业的信心。 Visionary stakeholders in the lab-grown diamond space are revolutionising the sector with new product lines, refreshing marketing approaches and cutting-edge growing techniques. 实验室培育钻石业的持份者高瞻远瞩，不断将产品 推陈出新，同时实践新颖的营销策略和划时代的生产技术， 展现日新月异的革新精神。 Pushing boundaries in the lab-grown diamond world 实验室培育钻石业突破界限
GAME CHANGERS JNA LAB-GROWN DIAMOND SPECIAL 2022 | 16 HPHT and CVD growth methods 高温高压(HPHT)和化学气相沉积培育方法 The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) is helping consumers make informed buying decisions by providing stateof-the-art grading and identification services for lab-grown diamonds (LGD). At the heart of these initiatives is the GIA Laboratory-Grown Diamond Report alongside continuous research on LGDs, according to Tom Moses, executive vice president and chief laboratory and research officer at GIA. The digital reports cater to labgrown diamonds in the D to Z range as well as fancy colour diamonds. They include colour and clarity specifications, the method used to grow the LGDs and whether there is evidence of post-growth treatment. Moses underscored the importance of certification in the LGD field, noting growing demand for GIA’s Laboratory-Grown Diamond Reports amid rising consumer awareness. “As laboratory-grown diamonds have gained acceptance in the trade and by consumers, often as a category distinct from natural diamonds, it is important that their origin and characteristics are properly disclosed,” he said. GIA first examined gem-quality lab-grown diamonds created by General Electric more than 50 years ago and published the first scientific study of the then-new material in 1971. At present, GIA can identify LGDs produced via high pressure, high temperature (HPHT) and chemical vapor deposition (CVD) methods with 美国宝石研究院( G I A )通过 最先进的实验室培育钻石 (LGD)分级和鉴定服务，协 助消费者作出明智的购买决定。GIA 执行副总裁兼鉴定所和研究室首席 官Tom Moses表示，他们的核心项目 包括推出GIA实验室培育钻石报告， 以及就着这个钻石范畴的最新发展 持续进行研究。 该些数字报告适用于D至Z级颜 色的实验室培育钻石和彩色钻石，资 料包括颜色和净度规格、培育钻石的 方式，以及产品有否经过后期处理。 Moses强调鉴定报告在LGD领域 的重要性，并指出消费者意识提高的 同时，对GIA实验室培育钻石报告的 需求也不断增加。他说：“实验室培 育钻石越来越受业界和消费者认可， 亦被视为有别于天然钻石的类别，因 此，精确而详细地列出其来源和特质 是非常重要的。” 50多年前，GIA首次鉴定由通用电 气公司培育的宝石级LGD钻石，并在 1971年发表了对当时这项崭新物料 的第一份科研文献。如今，GIA已能够 百分百准确辨识以高温高压(HPHT) 和化学气相沉积法(CVD)生产的钻 石，并继续对培育钻石进行广泛而深 入的研究，领先一步了解培育程序、 处理方式和技术上的发展。 Moses透露：“研究工作包括在自 家科研设施中培育CVD钻石，以确保 我们能够掌握最新的技术、生产程序 和加工处理技巧。我们还会使用这些 内部生产的合成钻石，来改善和测试 我们的鉴别能力。” GIA窥见实验室培育钻石在珠宝 和宝石业的闪亮机遇，大前提是加以 善用。Moses称，现代培育技术使生产 商能够制造数量更多、尺寸更大的优 质钻石，以供应宝石和珠宝市场。 100 per cent accuracy. It continues extensive and in-depth research on lab-grown diamonds to stay ahead of advances in growth processes, treatments and technology. “That research includes growing CVD diamonds in our own research facility to ensure we have up-todate insights into new technology, processes and treatments. We also use these in-house produced synthetic diamonds to refine and challenge our identification abilities,” Moses disclosed. GIA sees glowing opportunities for lab-grown diamonds, provided these are properly disclosed. Moses said modern growth technologies have allowed producers to grow highquality LGDs in greater quantities and bigger sizes for the gem and jewellery market. The Gemological Institute of America is relentlessly making advances in lab-grown diamond testing and identification to foster consumer trust and confidence in the thriving LGD sector. 美国宝石研究院致力提升实验室培育钻石的测试 和鉴定水平，从而深化消费者对这个蓬勃行业的信任和信心。 GIA leads LGD grading and identification 推动培育钻石分级和鉴定发展 GIA Laboratory-Grown Diamond Report GIA实验室培育钻石报告
突破常规 JNA LAB-GROWN DIAMOND SPECIAL 2022 | 17 All images courtesy of Smiling Rocks 照片由Smiling Rocks提供 Three years into its inception, lab-grown diamond jewellery brand Smiling Rocks already works with over 500 retailers in the US and has strengthened its presence in Europe, Australia, the UK and Asia, with an eye to double its retail network by end-2022. “The lab-grown diamond business has grown tremendously as the market becomes more accepting of this innovative product,” remarked Smiling Rocks CEO Zulu Ghevriya. Inspired by this growth potential as well as the opportunity to give back to society, Ghevriya and his brother, Manish Jiwani, founded Smiling Rocks in 2019 as a contemporary lab-grown diamond jewellery brand that operates on a “philanthropic” business model. At present, the brand supports different charities under four initiatives – environmental preservation, educational andmedical support, and animal protection. Glittering collections Smiling Rocks positions itself as the premium lab-grown diamond jewellery brand, particularly in the engagement and bridal segment. Its portfolio consists of basic essential, bridal, fine fashion and high jewellery collections and recently, a men’s engagement ring line. This men’s collection offers six designs adorned with round and fancy lab-grown diamonds in 14-karat 創办三年以来，实验室培育 钻饰品牌Smiling Rocks已 经与美国500多家零售商合 作，同时加强开拓欧洲、澳大利亚、英 国和亚洲市场，并计划在2022年底前 将零售网络扩大一倍。 Smiling Rocks首席执行官Zulu Ghevriya称：“随着实验室培育钻石 越来越受市场欢迎，这项创新产品的 业务亦有可观增长。” Ghevriya和兄长Manish Jiwani窥 见其发展潜力，同时希望回馈社会， 因此在2019年创立了Smiling Rocks。 这个洋溢当代风格的培育钻饰品牌， 采用“慈善”商业运营模式，目前循 四个方向支持不同的慈善项目，分别 是环境保护、教育、医疗和动物权益。 闪闪生辉的系列 Smiling Rocks定位为顶尖实验室 培育钻饰品牌，尤其聚焦在订婚和婚 庆领域。产品包括基本款式、婚庆首 饰、高级时尚设计和奢华珠宝，最近 还推出了男士订婚戒指系列。 男士系列提供六种设计选择，当 中14K和18K黄金或铂金订婚戒指 上，镶嵌了圆形和花式切割实验室培 育钻石。钻石具有多种切割和形状， 主石重1克拉至3克拉。 Ghevriya指出：“我们的男士订婚 戒指宣传企划，完全体现了男士与首 饰之间的联系，这点反映于经典戒指 的慑人魅力之中。设计赋予鲜明轮 廓，散发阳刚气息——现在是时候让 男士拥有奢华的单石戒指了。” Smiling Rocks的设计师作品广泛 迎合奢侈以至时尚等消费市场，令该 公司深感自豪。Ghevriya说：“我们是 一个实力非凡的生产和品牌合作伙 伴，从裸石到成品珠宝，全面满足终 端消费者不断蜕变的需求和喜好。” and 18-karat gold or platinum. The diamonds come in a variety of cuts and shapes and are available in 1-carat to 3-carat centre stones. “Our men’s engagement ring campaign is all about a man’s connection with his jewellery as reflected in the magnetic aura of the classic rings,” noted Ghevriya. “It is time for men to enjoy the luxury of owning a solitaire ring with bold and masculine designs.” Smiling Rocks takes pride in its designers whose creations cater to a wide range of consumer markets, from luxury to fashion. “From loose stones to finished jewellery, we are a strong manufacturing and brand partner that can support the everevolving demand and preference of end-consumers,” said Ghevriya. Riding on the exponential growth of the lab-grown diamond industry, Smiling Rocks is cementing its sparkling future with inventive collections and a strong brand narrative grounded on sustainability. 实验室培育钻石业发展一日千里，Smiling Rocks乘着这股升浪， 以其创意钻饰和可持续发展的品牌敍事，巩固璀璨未来。 highlights design and innovation Smiling Rocks 以设计与创新为宗旨 Men’ s engagement ri ngs男士订婚戒指
GAME CHANGERS JNA LAB-GROWN DIAMOND SPECIAL 2022 | 18 All images courtesy of Rockrush 照片由Rockrush提供 Rockrush is disrupting the disruptive world of lab-grown diamonds by defying existing limitations of sizes and cuts. Its breakthroughs in the field open up new horizons for the fast-growing category. Rockrush超越实验室培育钻石在尺寸和 切割上的既有限制，在业界大放异彩。种种突破性成就，为这个发展迅速的范畴开拓新领域。 blazes a trail in the lab-grown space Rockrush 培育钻石专家另辟新径 Rockrush is expanding possibilities in the lab-grown diamond sector by filling the gap in the market for bigger, gemquality stones. Smit Virani, director of the Hong Kong-based lab-grown diamond manufacturer, said, “Demand is always healthy for commercial stones from 1 to 5 carats in all shapes and sizes. But there is also a huge pickup for stones of 5 carats and up. This indicates that lab-grown diamonds are developing into a full-fledged jewellery category with countless design possibilities.” Attesting to Rockrush’s capabilities is the 14.60-carat Freedom of India, a VS2 lab-grown diamond in F colour – one of the largest ever produced by chemical vapor deposition (CVD). The company also has special cuts for its lab-grown diamonds, adapting the Optica series of diamond cuts, licensed from diamantaire Hini Star Ltd. Star-inspired Optica Stelo has 91 facets; Rozo, 56 facets; and floral-patterned Floro, 77 facets. “Our initiatives encourage consumers to see things in a different light,” Virani said. “We are opening up a whole new world of lab-grown diamonds to consumers across the globe, offering spectacular gemquality stones with fascinating production stories and enticing new designs.” Rockrush’s colourless Rockrush最近以一颗14.60克拉 的“Freedom of India”实验室培育 钻石展示其技术实力，这颗钻石采用 化学气相沉积(CVD)技术制造，是以 此技术培育的其中一颗最大的钻石， 拥有VS2级别净度及F成色。他们最 近获Hini Star Ltd授权使用其Optica 系列钻石切割技术，为其实验室培育 钻石推出多款独特样式：星型(Stelo) 拥有91个切割面、玫瑰型(Rozo)拥有 56个切割面、花型(Floro)则有77个 切割面。 Virani说：“本公司的一系列新猷， 鼓励消费者打破旧有观念。我们旨 在提供至臻完美的宝石级别钻石， 以极致的生产工艺和新颖迷人的设 计为全球消费者开拓培育钻石新天 地。”Rockrush提供D至H成色的无色 钻石，另外也制造多种彩色实验室培 育钻石。 璀璨前景 据Virani所称，实验室培育钻石市 场的按年增长仍然相当显著。北美市 场的需求冠绝全球，而东南亚地区的 消费者接受度亦有所提升。 Virani预期，由于现时产品供不应 求，因此制造量亦会相应大增。他解 释：“市场上将会出现越来越多已打 磨的培育钻石，但是因为新产量可被 需求吸收，所以价格将会保持平稳。” Virani最后补充，Rockrush致力投 放资源进行教育和支持业内生力军， 这点有助消除大众对实验室培育钻 石的误解。 stones come in D to H colours. The company’s production also includes a wide array of fancy colour labgrown diamonds. Bright prospects The market for lab-grown diamonds is growing exponentially year on year, according to Virani. North America leads demand, with consumer acceptance catching on in Southeast Asia as well. Virani thus expects production to soar as demand outstrips supply. “There will be more and more carats of polished lab-grown diamonds entering the marketplace. Prices should remain stable though as there is enough demand to absorb new production,” he explained. Rockrush invests in education and support for new players in the industry to help eradicate misconceptions about lab-grown diamonds, Virani added. Rockrush透过制造尺寸更大、 宝石级别的实验室培育钻石， 以填补市场空白，借此创造独 特地位。这家实验室培育钻石的生产商及 制造商总监Smit Virani指出：“各种 形状和尺寸的1至5克拉商业级别钻 石需求一向稳健，但是5克拉或以上 的钻石，受欢迎程度也大有增长，意 味着实验室培育钻石现正发展成一 个完整的珠宝类别，在设计上拥有无 限可能性。”
GAME CHANGERS JNA LAB-GROWN DIAMOND SPECIAL 2022 | 20 All images courtesy of ZS-Tech 所有照片由征世科技提供 Shanghai Zhengshi Technology Co Ltd (ZS-Tech) is spearheading innovation and development in the lab-grown diamond sector, particularly with regards to the chemical vapor deposition (CVD) growth method. The multinational company has proven its mastery of the process by pioneering key initiatives that cement its position as a leading producer of gem-quality CVD diamonds in a wide range of sizes, colours and clarity grades. ZS-Tech specialises in the research and development (R&D), production and sales of industrialgrade to gem-quality lab-grown diamonds. The company has a business presence in over 27 countries and regions, and operates wholly owned subsidiaries in Hong Kong, New York and Los Angeles. Among its milestones is its record-breaking 16.41-carat princesscut lab-grown diamond produced in 2021, which was certified by the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) as the world’s largest lab-grown CVD diamond. GIA experts graded 上海征世科技股份有限公司 (简称“征世科技”)是实验 室培育钻石业界的龙头企 业，在创新科技范畴屡创佳绩，尤以 化学气相沉积法(CVD)为强项。 作为业界先驱，这家跨国企业的 产品水平卓越，无论是重量、颜色或 净度，其CVD钻石已攀上珠宝级培育 钻石之巅峰。 征世科技集研发、生产、销售为一 体，产品涵盖工业级和珠宝级实验室 培育钻石。该公司的业务覆盖27个国 家和地区，在香港地区、纽约和洛杉 矶均设有全资子公司。 该公司在 2 0 2 1年生产了一颗 16.41克拉的公主方形切割钻石，获 美国宝石研究院(GIA)鉴定为全球最 大的CVD培育钻石，刷新世界纪录， 亦成为其业务的里程碑。GIA专家对 这颗钻石进行分级时，采用了该鉴定 所就着实验室培育钻石所规划的严 格流程。 征世科技以高超技术培育优质钻 石，其主营的1-17克拉钻石颜色达G 色以上，净度则为VS1以上，并且无需 进行后期改色处理或改善净度。 此外，该公司已完全掌握微波等 离子化学气相沉淀法(MPCVD)，是研 发方面的另一重大突破，对实验室培 育钻石业界贡献良多。 产品质量好、生产效率高一直是 征世科技推出工业级和珠宝级培育 钻石的不懈追求。他们将会继续提供 尺寸更大、更优秀的培育美钻，并透 过研发崭新技术和物料，令业务更上 一层楼。 the diamond using the institute’s standard rigorous process for labgrown diamonds. ZS-Tech also prides itself on its ability tooffer high-quality "as-grown" diamonds. The manufacturer’s technical prowess enables it to produce lab-grown diamonds of 1 to 17 carats in at least G-colour and a clarity grade of VS1 or higher without the need for post-growth treatment or clarity enhancement. The company also perfected the MPCVD (Microwave Plasma-enhanced Chemical Vapor Deposition) process – another significant R&D breakthrough that benefits the entire lab-grown diamond community. ZS-Tech said it has successfully addressed challenges in ensuring product quality and manufacturing efficiency in the mass production of lab-grown diamonds for industrial and jewellery-making applications. The company remains firmly committed to delivering lab-grown diamonds of bigger sizes and better quality while continually improving the manufacturing process by developing new techniques and materials. Bagging several firsts in the lab-grown diamond sector, ZS-Tech pushes the envelope on innovation and product quality through trailblazing R&D and technological advances. 征世科技在实验室培育钻石领域完成多项创举， 透过革新研发和在技术上的长足进步，贯彻创新与品质为先的宗旨。 ZS-Tech scores LGD breakthroughs 征世科技于培育钻石业成就斐然
GAME CHANGERS JNA LAB-GROWN DIAMOND SPECIAL 2022 | 22 All images courtesy of Classic Grown Diamonds 照片由Classic Grown Diamonds提供 The future is bright for labgrown diamond (LGD) producers, thanks to steady market demand and continuous supply of goods, according to Classic Grown Diamonds. Established in 2013, the company – part of Shashvat Diamonds Inc, which is based in New York – has offices in New York, Hong Kong, Antwerp and London. Classic Grown Diamonds’ transition to the LGD business is a success story, with the manufacturer establishing a solid customer base in major jewellery markets. Global Operations Director Shashvat Sadhani shared, “We have been producing lab-grown diamonds for close to a decade now. We were initially in the HPHT (high pressure, high temperature) natural diamond business and eventually switched to LGDs. It was a monumental shift.” The company’s strength lies in the production of D- to G-colour labgrown diamonds, including solitaires and small loose stones. Its lab-grown diamonds come with certifications from the Gemological Institute of America and the International Gemological Institute. Sadhani said market appetite for 1-carat to 3-carat lab-grown diamonds in fancy shapes such as ovals and pears remains robust, with North America driving demand. 在市场需求持续和产品供应 源源不绝的基础上，Classic Grown Diamonds认为实 验室培育钻石(LGD)生产商的前景无 限。该公司创立于2013年，隶属纽约 Shashvat Diamonds Inc旗下，在纽 约、香港地区、比利时和伦敦均设有 办事处。 Classic Grown Diamonds成功 投身LGD业务，并在主要珠宝市场建 立了稳固的客户群。全球运营总监 Shashvat Sadhani分享道：“本公司 生产实验室培育钻石已接近十年。我 们最初从事高压高温(HPHT)天然钻 石业务，最终转型生产LGD钻石。这 是一个重大的转变。” 该公司擅长培育D色至G色钻石， 当中包括单颗美钻和小型裸钻，产品 获美国宝石研究院(GIA)和国际宝石 学院(IGI)认证。 Sadhani表示，市场对1至3克拉的 LGD花式切割钻石，尤其是椭圆形和 梨形的需求依然非常强劲，北美市场 更是背后的推动力。 Classic Grown Diamonds亦提供 一系列镶嵌实验室培育钻石的成品 首饰。买家可以从琳琅满目的产品之 中仔细挑选，包括婚庆首饰、层叠式 戒指、耳环、网球手链、项链和吊坠。 据Sadhani称，多年来实验室培育 钻石业务呈几何级数增长，在国际珠 宝和宝石业的受欢迎程度与日具增。 然而，该行业在建立和维持消费者对 LGD钻石的信心方面仍然面临挑战。 他指出：“实验室培育钻石业已经 成功克服了过去种种挑战。而目前， 我们需要加强市场对产品的信心，而 且避免降价行为。买家保证可以持续 获得各种形状和尺寸的培育钻石，以 满足珠宝制造商的需求，从而为LGD 钻石生产商提供充裕的发展机会。” Classic Grown Diamonds also offers finished jewellery with labgrown diamonds. Buyers can choose from a diverse selection that includes bridal jewellery, stackable rings, earrings, tennis bracelets, necklaces and pendants. According to Sadhani, the labgrown diamond business has expanded exponentially over the years and continues to gain traction in the international jewellery and gemstone trade. The sector however faces the challenges of building and preserving consumer confidence in lab-grown diamonds. “The lab-grown diamond industry has emerged successfully frommany other challenges in the past. For now, we need to foster confidence in the product. We should also avoid reducing prices,” noted Sadhani. “Buyers are assured of consistent supply of LGDs in various shapes and sizes to support the needs of jewellery manufacturers, providing ample growth opportunities for labgrown diamonds producers.” Almost a decade into its lab-grown diamond business, Classic Grown Diamonds continues to soar in prominence as a reliable source of top-quality LGDs. 近十年來，Classic Grown Diamonds从事培育钻石业务，在行内声名显赫， 成为备受信赖的顶级LGD钻石供应商。 Diamonds steps into LGD limelight Classic Grown 跻身LGD业界焦点
GAME CHANGERS JNA LAB-GROWN DIAMOND SPECIAL 2022 | 24 Lab-grown diamonds by Ningbo Crysdiam 宁波晶钻的实验室培育钻石 Founded in 2013 by top-notch scientists and entrepreneurs in Zhejiang, China, Ningbo Crysdiam Industrial Technology Co Ltd is among the most advanced labgrown diamond (LGD) producers in the world today. In 2014, it established the first microwave plasma-enhanced chemical vapor deposition (MPCVD) single crystal diamond production line, becoming the first company in China that specialises in the industrial production of large-sized LGDs using the MPCVD process. Ningbo Crysdiam has also made a name for itself in manufacturing LGDs for jewellery in H colour or above and with VS2 clarity grades or higher. According to the company, a single rough LGD can produce a polished round brilliant LGD centre stone weighing up to 5 carats and four side stones of around 0.30 carat. Ningbo Crysdiam likewise manufactures fancy colour LGDs. It has a diversified client portfolio that includes mainland Chinese and overseas diamond manufacturers and jewellers. Owing to its strong research and development capability, Ningbo Crysdiam owns 17 international and national patents. It also has 3,000 square metres of E0-grade workshops, 500 square metres of E0-grade R&D laboratory, and 300 square metres of sales office. Majority of its 150-strong workforce are doctorate and master’s degree holders and technical staff. 宁波晶钻科技股份有限公司 成立于2013年，由一流的 科学家和企业家在浙江创 办，是当今最先进的实验室培育钻石 (LGD)生产商之一。 2 0 1 4 年，公司建立了第一条 微波等离子增强化学气相沉积法 (MPCVD)单晶钻石生产线，从而成为 中国第一家专门采用MPCVD工艺进 行大尺寸实验室培育钻石工业化生 产的公司。 宁波晶钻在生产珠宝用途的实验 室培育钻石方面也成绩斐然，专业生 产H色或以上，净度为VS2或以上的 实验室培育钻石。该公司介绍，单颗 实验室培育钻石毛坯可以切磨成一 颗圆形明亮式主石，重达5克拉，以及 四颗约为0.30克拉的辅石。 宁波晶钻还生产彩色实验室培育 钻石。 公司的客户组合非常多元化，包 括中国大陆和海外的钻石生产商和 珠宝商。凭借其强大的研发能力，宁波晶 钻拥有17项国际和国家专利。公司还 拥有3,000平方米的E0级车间，500平 方米的E0级研发实验室，以及300平 方米的销售办公室。在其150多名员 工中，大部分拥有博士和硕士学位， 或者是技术人員。 为了进一步支持其创新工作，宁 波晶钻正在浙江省宁波市建设一个 钻石产业园，规划总用地面积约为 82,000平方米，建筑面积为70,000平 方米。 项目的第一阶段计划在年内完 成。该设施预计每年生产和加工120 万克拉的大尺寸实验室培育钻石，进 一步实现公司成为国际知名的高端 实验室培育钻石材料、设备和器件供 应商的愿景。 To further support its innovative endeavours, Ningbo Crysdiam is building a diamond industrial park in Ningbo, Zhejiang Province, with a total planned land area of approximately 82,000 square metres and a construction area of 70,000 square metres. The first phase of the project is scheduled for completion within the year. The facility is expected to produce and process 1.2 million carats of large-size LGDs annually, further realising the company’s vision to become an internationally renowned supplier of high-end LGD materials, equipment and devices. Almost a decade into its lab-grown diamond business, Ningbo Crysdiam emerges as a renowned manufacturer and forerunner in research and development. 从事实验室培育钻石业务近十年，宁波晶钻已发展成为知名的生产商和研发先行者。 Ningbo Crysdiam spearheads innovation 宁波晶钻锐意创新
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