GEMSWORLD | 58 | 2024 MARKET INTELLIGENCE 市场情报 Coloured gemstone specialists are making the cut with special shapes to add character and vitality to jewellery designs. Fuli Gemstones has unveiled bespoke peridot cuts for those seeking alternative shapes for fine jewellery creations. Based on an antique cushion, its Fuli Cut contains 65 facets, instead of the usual 58. The gemstone is also cut on the cross, revealing its distinctive vivid green colour and vitality. The Fuli Cut capitalises on two of peridot’s special gemmological features: Pleochrism, where a gemstone shows different colours when viewed from different angles; and high birefringence, where a single ray of light entering the gem splits into two rays, appearing to double the facets. Fuli Gemstones Chief Marketing Officer and Executive Director Pia Tonna said, “We had enquiries from designers and brands from Europe and India when we unveiled the Fuli Cut at Jewellery & Gem WORLD Hong Kong 2023.” Meanwhile, Fuli Gemstones’ Radiant Sun and Nonagon cuts in 1 carat and above both play with facets to showcase peridot’s birefringence. Trendy rubies Thailand-based Navneet Gems & Minerals, for its part, has launched a collection of responsibly sourced unheated portrait-cut rubies in trendy geometric shapes ranging from 0.50 carat to 2 carats. Noting that alternative cuts are increasingly popular, company director Navneet Agarwal said portrait-cut rubies open new creative opportunities for designers and manufacturers. Portrait cuts have been mostly used for diamonds. “Opting for an unheated portrait-cut ruby can be an excellent choice for those who appreciate something rare and distinctive,” he said. The portrait cut is a thin, flat cut with a large table and slight facets on the side. Unlike traditional gemstones that feature numerous facets across their surface to enhance brilliance and sparkle, portrait cuts reduce the number of facets, particularly along the gem’s outer edges. This creates a distinct visual effect that resembles a clear sheet of glass. “Portrait cuts give the impression of a bigger gemstone and promise great value for money in terms of visual impact,” Agarwal noted. 彩色宝石专家们通过特殊形状的切工为珠宝设计 增添个性和活力。富丽宝石推出了定制的橄榄石 切工，为高级珠宝创作提供另类选择。“富丽切 工”(Fuli Cut)以古董枕形切工为基础，包含65个刻面而非常 见的58个。宝石还切割成十字形，展现了富丽切工橄榄石独 有的鲜绿色彩和迷人活力。 洋溢当代美的“富丽切工”运用了橄榄石的两个特殊宝 石学特征。第一个是多色性，即宝石从不同角度观赏时会显 示出不同的颜色；另外一个光学特性为高双折射，即进入橄 榄石的单束光线会分裂成两束光线，在视觉上产生双刻面 的错觉。富丽宝石首席营销官兼执行董事Pia Tonna说“: 富 丽切工在2023年环球盛事|九月香港珠宝首饰展览会亮相 时，我们收到了来自欧洲和印度的设计师和品牌的垂询。” 另外，1克拉及以上的富丽“明亮太阳切工”(Radiant Sun cut)和“九边形切工”(Nonagon cut)宝石，均利用切面来展示 橄榄石的双折射。 时尚的红宝石 泰国宝石公司Navneet Gems & Minerals推出了一系列 负责任采购未经加热“肖像切工”(Portrait cut)红宝石，呈现 时尚的几何形状，重量从0.50克拉到2克拉不等。该公司指 出，另类切工越来越受欢迎，其肖像切工红宝石能让设计师 和制造商发挥创意。以往肖像切工主要应用于钻石。公司董 事Navneet Agarwal说：“对于那些追求独特稀品的人士来 说，未经加热肖像切工红宝石或许是一个上佳的选择。” “肖像切工”是一种纤薄平坦的切工，桌面刻面宽大，侧 面稍为缀上刻面。传统的刻面宝石表面有许多刻面，以提高 宝石的闪亮度。而肖像切工则减少了刻面的数量，尤其是宝 石外缘的刻面，从而产生一种类似透明玻璃片的独特视觉 效果。Agarwal表示：“肖像切工令宝石看起来更大，视觉效 果更震撼，绝对物超所值。” Fuli Cut peridot from Fuli Gemstones; portrait-cut ruby from Navneet Gems & Minerals; Nonagon-cut peridot from Fuli Gemstones 富丽宝石的“富丽切工”橄榄石；Navneet Gems & Minerals的“肖像切工”红宝石；富丽宝石的“九边形切工”橄榄石 | Olivia Quiniquini 程爱莉 | Fuli Gemstones and Navneet Gems & Minerals have introduced special cuts to enhance the appeal of peridots and rubies, respectively. 富丽宝石和Navneet Gems & Minerals均推出了特色切工，分别提升了橄榄石和红宝石的吸引力。 for coloured gems BESPOKE CUTS 定制彩色宝石切工
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