GEMSWORLD | 49 | 2024 SPOTLIGHT 市场聚焦 These copper-bearing tourmaline variants were first unearthed in the late 1980s in the Brazilian state of Paraiba, from which its name is derived. Nigeria and Mozambique in Africa are other major sources of Paraiba tourmaline. Market overview Demand for Paraiba tourmalines continued its upward trajectory amid challenging times, with the US, Europe and Asia driving growth. Niveet Nagpal, president and designer of Los Angelesbased jeweller Omi Privé, described Paraiba tourmalines as among the few stones that sell even when they are slightly included or come in a cabochon cut. “The stone’s exceptional saturation and distinctive neon blue to green hues set it apart from other gems. These are the most important factors considered by clients when making their purchases,” explained Nagpal. “We expect higher demand for smaller stones as these are more affordable. There is also growing interest in finer-quality Paraiba tourmalines.” According to Angela Yuen, managing director of Wilds Co Ltd in Hong Kong, upper- and middle-range qualities of the gem are enjoying solid demand. “Some buyers look for more accessible Paraiba tourmaline pieces for daily wear while others desire heirloom or investment pieces. Still, most buyers prioritise the quality of the gem,” she said. Amit Dugar, director of RMC Gems HK, agreed, adding that consumers want medium- to high-quality gems, specifically those of 2 carats and above. The most soughtafter shapes are oval and pear. Meanwhile, prices have surged over the past three years. He said, “Prices of Paraiba tourmaline from Mozambique have gone up by at least 100 per cent to 200 per cent, and there is still room for further increases. Meanwhile, prices of Brazilian Paraiba tourmaline have increased by 50 per cent. There is hardly any production from Brazil; prices continue to remain high.” Dugar explained that the Mozambique variant is inherently more affordable as it sells for around 20 per cent to 30 per cent of current Brazilian Paraiba tourmaline prices. However, prices of Mozambique gems are expected to rise in the future depending on the quality, colour and size of the stone. Exceptional designs The gem’s intense colour saturation and stunning clarity make it highly desirable among jewellery designers seeking a truly extraordinary material. Sebastian Leyser, co-founder and head of business development of Switzerland-based Leyser Ltd, described the natural fluorescence of Paraiba tourmalines as a “magical glow” that captivates audiences. To accentuate the gem’s inherent beauty, the company combines Paraiba tourmalines and diamonds in platinum in its jewellery collections. Paraiba tourmalines’ unique colour also complements other stones perfectly, Yuen of Wilds Co Ltd commented, adding that pairing small Paraiba tourmalines with other stones creates an unexpected and stunning effect, further enhancing the beauty of the adjacent gems. Yuen shared, “We had a client who requested a custommade jade jewellery. With our expertise, we proposed incorporating Paraiba tourmaline to further add elegance to the piece. The outcome was a remarkably harmonious composition where the Paraiba tourmaline imparted an exquisite radiance to the jewellery, elevating its overall aesthetic with a modern touch.” Paraiba tourmalines from RMC Gems HK RMC Gems HK的帕拉依巴碧玺 Spinning stones ring with Paraiba tourmalines and diamonds by Leyser Ltd的旋转宝石戒指，镶嵌帕拉依巴碧玺和钻石
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