world GEMS2024 Fascinating gems 教人心醉神迷的宝石 Insights and innovations 独到见解与创新力量 A Publication US$20 宝世 石界 宝石世界 Glittering road ahead for coloured gemstones 彩色宝石的璀璨前路
CONTENTS 目录 DIGEST 市场指标 Coloured gems dazzle at New York auction 纽约拍卖会上琳琅满目的彩色宝石 8 FOCUS 焦点 Glittering road ahead for coloured gemstones 彩色宝石的璀璨前路 10 INSIGHT 精辟洞见 Luxury gems winning favour in global markets 奢华宝石广受环球市场热捧 16 Radiant prospects in ruby and emerald trade 红宝石与祖母绿前景辉煌 18 Coloured gemstones shine in Asian markets 彩色宝石在亚洲市场大展风采 20 Inter-Pacific sees solid demand for lab-grown emeralds 泛洋控股窥见实验室培育祖母绿庞大商机 22 INNOVATION 创新科技 Gemmological advances from GIA GIA在宝石学上的贡献 26 AIGS facilitates provenance requirements AIGS积极优化宝石溯源准则 28 SHOWCASE 精品荟萃 The perpetual warmth of peach 温暖柔和的蜜桃色调 30 Vibrant elegance 艳丽优雅 34 SPOTLIGHT 市场聚焦 Verdant future for emerald traders 祖母绿贸易商的未来欣欣向荣 36 Ruby radiance 红宝石之耀眼光芒 40 Sapphires reign supreme in gemstone world 蓝宝石于业界保持优势 44 The mesmerising Paraiba tourmaline 魅力无穷的帕拉依巴碧玺 48 Spectacular spinel 动人心魄的尖晶石 52 MARKET INTELLIGENCE 市场情報 Sapphires from Yogo Gulch make a comeback 约戈峡谷蓝宝石重现眼前 56 Bespoke cuts for coloured gems 定制彩色宝石切工 58 On the Cover 封面 Mosaic Tiles cocktail rings from Bulgari’s Mediterranea High Jewellery Collection 宝格丽Mediterranea高级珠宝系列 Mosaic Tiles鸡尾酒戒指
Associate Publisher & Editor-in-Chief Olivia Quiniquini 副出版人及主编 程爱莉 EDITORIAL 编辑部 Deputy Editor Bernardette Sto. Domingo 副编辑 杜明高 Assistant Editor Sharon Kwok 助理編輯 郭芷雯 Assistant Digital Product Manager William Yick 助理数码产品经理 易昌耀 ADVERTISING 广告部 Assistant Director Christine Sinn 区域营业总监 冼蕙珠 MARKETING 市場推广部 Senior Marketing & Communications Manager Ronny Pang 高级市场及传讯经理 彭秋影 Assistant Marketing & Communications Manager Monica Kwok 市場及傳訊助理經理 郭君寧 Marketing & Communications Executive Vincent Wong 市场及传讯主任 黄志伟 PRODUCTION 制作部 Production Manager Jennifer So 制作部经理 苏丽娟 Senior Designer Eva Kam 高级设计师 甘铭灵 Assistant Event and Media Service Manager Bonnie Law 助理项目及媒体服务经理 罗凤伦 ADVERTISING REPRESENTATIVES 广告代理 China 中国: 广州代表处 胡淑晶 | Tel 电话: (86) 20 8666 0158 Email 电邮: [email protected] Germany 德国: Liz Dobelmann | Tel 电话: (49) 721 384 1881 Email 电邮: [email protected] Italy 意大利: Mauro Arati | Tel 电话: (39) 02048517853 Email 电邮: [email protected] Japan 日本: Nobuaki Nito | Tel 电话: (81) 3 52961020 Email 电邮: [email protected] Taiwan 台湾: Rita Hung | Tel 电话: (886) 2 2738 3898 Email 电邮: [email protected] Thailand 泰国: Alongkorn Chanyangarm | Tel 电话: (66) 2 036 0500 ext 206 Email 电邮: [email protected] US 美国: Bonnie Chan | Tel 电话: (1) 347 906 4693 Email 电邮: [email protected] President & CEO - Asia Margaret Ma Connolly 亚洲主席及行政总裁 马颖 Senior Vice President - Asia David Bondi 亚洲高级副总裁 庞大为 Director of Jewellery Fairs Celine Lau 珠宝展览部总监 刘小雯 Published by Informa Markets 出版 17/F, China Resources Building, 26 Harbour Road, Wanchai, Hong Kong 香港湾仔港湾道26号华润大厦17樓 Email 电邮: [email protected] JewelleryNet.com Every care has been taken to ensure the accuracy of the information in GEMSWORLD 2024. However, the publication of such information is at the sole discretion of the publisher. The publisher and the editorial team shall not be held responsible or in any way held liable for any errors, omissions or inaccuracies in this publication, or for any consequences arising therefrom. The contents of this publication are protected by copyright and cannot be reproduced, photocopied, transmitted or posted in any form without the prior written consent of the publisher. 本不公得司以已任尽何力方确式保翻《印宝、石仿世制界或2转0载24本》刊所物刊任登何的部内份容之正文确字无或误图。片如。因错漏而引致任何损失，本公司概不负责。本公司保留刊登有关资料的一切权利。版权所有，如未获得本公司事先之书面允许， Printed by Asia One Printing Limited,13/F, Asia One Tower, 8 Fung Yip Street, Chai Wan, Hong Kong. 印刷商: 宏亚印务有限公司香港柴湾丰业街8号宏亚大厦13楼
DIGEST 市场指标 GEMSWORLD | 8 | 2024 The coloured gemstone trio of emerald, ruby and sapphire once again proved their enduring allure at Christie’s Magnificent Jewels auction in New York on December 6, 2023. Among the auction’s top lots were a ring adorned with a 9.13-carat emerald-cut Colombian emerald in 18-karat gold that sold for US$1 million, beating pre-sale estimates of US$200,000 to US$300,000; and a 7.31-carat Burmese ruby and diamond ring, which fetched US$1.13 million – well within its projected value. Meanwhile, a 23-carat Kashmir sapphire and diamond ring surpassed estimates of US$800,000 to US$1.2 million when it sold for US$3.01 million. Weight in carats of a Burmese sapphire that is central to Gübelin Jewellery's latest creation named Coral Blossom – a modifiable piece that can be worn as a brooch, necklace or cocktail ring. Coral Blossom, which took 350 hours to complete, highlights the uniqueness of the cushion-cut sapphire whose internal shapes and structures resemble elegant corals. Rubies further accentuate the design. 在2023年12月6日于佳士得纽约瑰丽珠宝拍卖会上，宝石三巨头—— 祖母绿、红宝石和蓝宝石再次证明了它们的永恒魅力。拍卖会上的顶 级拍品包括一枚镶嵌9.13克拉哥伦比亚祖母绿的18K金戒指，以100 万美元的高价成交，超过了拍卖前20万至30万美元的估价；一枚7.31 克拉缅甸红宝石配钻石戒指，以113万美元的高价成交，在其估价范 围之内；同时，一枚23克拉克什米尔蓝宝石配钻石戒指，则以301万 美元的价格成交，远超其80万至120万美元的估价。 古宝琳珠宝最新作品Coral Blossom的主石——缅甸蓝宝石的重量。 该作品可作为胸针、项链或鸡尾酒戒指佩戴。Coral Blossom耗时350 小时完成，凸显了枕形切割蓝宝石的独特性，其内部形状和结构宛如 优雅的珊瑚。红宝石的点缀更令设计锦上添花。 三大宝石 Big Three 5 carats克拉 Coral Blossom multifunctional cocktail ring by Gübelin Jewellery 古宝琳珠宝的Coral Blossom多功能鸡尾酒戒指 Emerald, ruby and sapphire rings Photo credit: Christie’s 祖母绿、红宝石和 蓝宝石戒指。图片来源: 佳士得 Revenue generated at Gemfields’ final ruby auction for 2023. The auction featured mixed-quality rough rubies from Mozambique, mined by Montepuez Ruby Mining Limitada (MRM). All 97 lots, or a total of 239,591 carats, were sold, with an average per-carat price of US$290.02. Weight in carats of a loose Burmese sapphire, which sold at Bonhams’ New York Jewels auction on December 4, 2023. The gem fetched US$660,900 and was accompanied by a report from the American Gemological Laboratories stating that it is of Burmese origin with no gemmological evidence of heat treatment. Gemfields于2023年最后一场红宝石拍卖会的收入。此次 的拍品是由Montepuez Ruby Mining Limitada (MRM)公 司开采的莫桑比克红宝石原石，涵盖多种品质。所有97项 拍卖品(合计239,591克拉)全数售出，每克拉平均价格为 290.02美元。 在2023年12月4日于邦瀚斯纽约珠宝拍卖会上售出的缅 甸蓝宝石裸石的重量。这颗宝石以660,900美元的高价成 交。它附有一份美国宝石实验室的报告，称这颗宝石原产 自缅甸，未见宝石经过热处理的证据。 US$70 million 11.87 carats 7,000万美元 克拉 Mozambique rubies 莫桑比克红宝石 Photo credit 图片来源: Gemfields 11.87-carat Burmese sapphire Photo credit: Bonhams 重11.87克拉的缅甸蓝宝石 图片来源: 邦瀚斯
FOCUS 焦点 GEMSWORLD | 10 | 2024 Prices, supply issues, responsible sourcing and next-generation consumers are among the factors shaping the business landscape of the coloured gemstone sector in the post-pandemic world. Demand for coloured gems has been at an all-time high since the pandemic as the market gravitates towards colour after the gloom of the Covid-19 years. Robust demand, coupled with supply disruptions, resulted in exponential increases in the prices of favoured coloured gemstones since the second half of 2022. This upward trajectory continued into 2023, with gemstone manufacturers and dealers remaining firm on their prices amid market hesitation over the hefty increases. Despite the resumption of trade fairs around the world in 2023, high prices slowed trading and professional trade buyers spent cautiously, mostly seeking to fulfil orders than to stock up on gems. Towards the end of 2023 though, the market started to settle amid economic and geopolitical uncertainties, with the trade anticipating a strong start to business in 2024. According to S A Ali, managing director of Bangkokbased United Colour Stones Co Ltd (UCS), the slowdown started in October 2023. “Rubies and sapphires continue to be in high demand but the market for other coloured gemstones such as aquamarine, zircon and tanzanite, among others, softened slightly from October to December 2023. Business will likely strengthen again from the first quarter of 2024,” the company official disclosed. Damien Cody, president of the International Colored Gemstone Association (ICA), agreed, pointing to “some consumer nervousness surrounding inflationary impacts and rises in interest rates” towards end-2023. The top-end of the market, however, remained robust, witnessing strong demand and high prices as borne out by auction results and reported sales, he added. Growth segments All indicators point to significant growth in the coloured gemstone sector in 2024, with prices poised to settle at their new post-pandemic levels. Cody noted solid demand for better-quality stones at the major trade fairs in the latter part of 2023. Improving economies will also drive transactions as retailers start to fill their inventories ahead of anticipated consumer demand. “Inventories have fallen to low levels and, as prices stabilise, we can expect increased demand from all sectors of the market to rebuild stocks,” Cody said. Clement Sabbagh, director of Ben Sabbagh Bros and former ICA president, said better-quality rubies, sapphires | Olivia Quiniquini 程爱莉 with reports from Richa Goyal Sikri and Julius Zheng 郑嵘 | With pricing levels and trading conditions of coloured gemstones set to stabilise in 2024, the gemstone industry trains its sights on nurturing demand in a socially conscious market while winning over younger consumers. 来到 2024年，彩色宝石的价格水平和贸易条件将渐趋稳定，宝石行业亦针对具社会意识的市场 及培养其需求，并吸引年轻消费者。 Glittering road ahead for coloured gemstones 彩色宝石迈向璀璨未来
FOCUS 焦点 GEMSWORLD | 11 | 2024 International Colored Gemstone Association President Damien Cody; Ben Sabbagh Bros Director Clement Sabbagh; Lotus Gemology Founder Richard W. Hughes 国际有色宝石协会主席 Damien Cody; Ben Sabbagh Bros 董事 Clement Sabbagh; Lotus Gemology 创办人 Richard W. Hughes and emeralds in medium to best colours were much favoured in 2023 and likely to stay in demand this year. “Paraiba tourmaline is extremely popular as well, fetching high prices due to supply constraints for good stones. Other market favourites include spinel, opal, tsavorite and Santa Maria aquamarine,” he continued. Cody and Sabbagh both expect the resurgence of China in 2024 after its prolonged remission in 2023. While the Chinese market had been struggling to accept post-pandemic prices, buyers are expected to resume purchases in time, Sabbagh shared. Cody also sees fresh opportunities in China, noting that female self-purchase accounted for nearly 80 per cent of the country’s market for coloured gemstones. “Traditional purchases are engagement rings and gifts, but the biggest segment in China now is women buying jewellery for themselves, which is rather unique to this market,” he revealed. Another growth avenue for the sector is online sales. Cody cited the burgeoning number of commercial sales transacted on the Internet, which has been instrumental in driving demand, particularly in China. “There are tremendous Internet sales on Little Red Book and Weibo. This is a huge part of our sector and among the biggest trends I have seen in recent years,” he remarked. Capacity influx Mining production for some coloured gemstones is likewise expected to increase, relieving the strain on supply that had exerted upward pressure on prices. Fuli Gemstones, for one, is scheduled to commence mining operations this year, said Pia Tonna, chief marketing officer and executive director of the vertically integrated peridot specialist. “We are on track to start bringing products to market in the third quarter of 2024. There will be a ramp-up period and, at full capacity, our mine is targeted to produce 64.5 per cent of the world’s peridot supply,” she revealed. Coloured gemstone miner Gemfields is likewise bullish, following a healthy 2023 with robust prices, albeit at lower levels than its “standout” performance in 2022, according to CEO Sean Gilbertson. “Barring any Black Swan events like the Covid-19 pandemic and geopolitical upheavals such as invasions, the market should remain relatively steady and in good shape in 2024,” he said. Supply constraints may also be eased by a growing trend Sabbagh observed in the mining sector. “More vertically integrated companies are offering mine-to-market services. More tenders are taking place as well. Dealers are coming to Brazil to source materials from mines and then holding tenders in Dubai or Bangkok,” he disclosed. Consumer expectations The coloured gemstone trade is also addressing the market’s intensified focus on sustainability, which is driven largely by socially conscious consumers. Cody views the clamour for full transparency as among the biggest challenges facing the sector. Having a completely transparent supply chain from mine to market is difficult to achieve as around 80 per cent of coloured gemstones are produced by artisanal miners in remote locations, he noted. Moreover, the industry leaves very little scars on the planet, has a small footprint and supports whole communities. “We need to deflect some of the focus on coloured gemstones away to the real causes of climate change and the real areas of concern for our society,” he remarked, pointing out that one per cent of the world’s energy is spent on mobile phones. Provenance matters The industry does make an effort though to address provenance, traceability and transparency concerns. ICA GemLab incorporates Provenance Proof Tracking in its Origin and Identification Reports. Leveraging the power of blockchain technology, the report gives each gemstone a
FOCUS 焦点 GEMSWORLD | 12 | 2024 Apprenticeship models also work best to develop cutting skills, rather than expecting trainees to meet international standards after short training periods, she continued. Next-gen customers Another major test – and opportunity – for the coloured gemstone market is nurturing demand among younger generations of consumers. Cody said, “The biggest challenge will be getting a share of mind of the new luxury buyer. The industry will need to build and maintain high levels of consumer confidence with this younger segment of new buyers.” Apart from highlighting responsible sourcing and sustainability initiatives, changing the narrative of coloured gemstones would help build emotional resonance among consumers, said Lotus Gemology founder and celebrated gemmologist and author Richard W. Hughes. “At Lotus Gemology, we tell stories to provide the human aspect to these wonderful things we work with. That is what the industry needs to do. It must stop focusing on numbers and technical descriptions and instead, focus more on the incredible beauty of each gemstone,” Hughes said. Cody admitted that storytelling should be an essential part of the sales pitch. “People do not remember facts and figures; they remember stories. Our industry deals in goods that are millions of years old. Each item is unique. We should ‘romance the stone’ and sell the idea of gemstones as works of art,” he remarked. For Sabbagh, exposure and education would help build a culture of coloured gemstones among younger generations. This goes hand in hand with building consumer confidence, Cody added. Achieving this requires full disclosure of treatments, abiding to a code of ethics, and clearly depicting the coloured gemstone journey from mine to market along with the lives they impact and the good they generate. digital identity and a traceable journey from its origin to its final destination. The Provenance Proof platform, meanwhile, had some eight million coloured gemstones from over 700 companies in its blockchain as of September 2023, said Gübelin Gem Lab Managing Director Daniel Nyfeler. And the lab’s Emerald Paternity Test, which embeds traceable nano particles into rough crystals, is applied to more than 30 per cent of the annual production of high-end emeralds. Nyfeler said, “Though the Provenance Proof blockchain is free to use, the midstream has either not yet fully understood and embraced traceability initiatives or received sufficient pressure from the brands to provide traceable goods. Jewellery brands also may not know the number of traceable stones available in the market.” Blockchain platforms are also not exclusively confined to bigger players. Nyfeler cites as example artisans in a small mining community in Madagascar who polish coloured gem waste into beads that are sold to tourists. “Every single piece they produce is on the blockchain, though the value of their goods may be minute. All that is needed is a smartphone to register, take a picture and enter the information. That done, the stone has a digital twin on the blockchain,” he explained. Nyfeler conceded that full transparency and traceability would take time. But since the technology is available, implementation can speed up, especially if brands start requiring traceable goods. “Having over eight million gemstones on the blockchain is a promising sign. Despite the complex and fragmented value chain of the coloured gemstone sector, there is also a bottom-up effort to achieve greater traceability,” he said. Responsible practices For his part, Gemfields’ Gilbertson proposes that the players in the downstream focus on “mine of origin” rather than “country of origin” to boost traceability. At the CIBJO (World Jewellery Confederation) Congress in October 2023, the first after the pandemic, he shared Bank of Mozambique data indicating that prior to Gemfields’ ruby auctions, rubies were either smuggled or their value was under-declared. “Setting price at the point of export is wrong and has cost Africa to lose billions of dollars,” Gilbertson said. And during the Congress’ session on responsible sourcing of coloured gemstones, Jenna White from the Colorado School of Mines disclosed that most local miners in key mining locations in Africa prefer fair prices for their gemstones, instead of donations. 80% Female self-purchase accounts for 80 per cent of the coloured gemstone market in China, according to ICA President Damien Cody ICA主席Damien Cody表示 ， 女性自购佔中国彩色宝石市场的80%
FOCUS 焦点 GEMSWORLD | 13 | 2024 国际有色宝石协会(ICA)主席Damien Cody表示贊同，并 指出2023年底“部分消费者感受到通胀和加息的压力”。不 过，高端市场走势依然强劲，拍卖和销售成绩证明了需求和 价格居高不下。 市场增长领域 纵观所有市场指标，2024年彩宝行业将呈现显著增长， 价格预计将回稳至疫后全新水平。 Cody指出，2023年下半年的大型贸易展对优质宝石需 求若渴。经济改善之际，零售商也开始在消费者需求提升之 前补充库存，从而推动贸易数字。 他表示：“库存已降至较低水平，随着价格回稳，我们预 计市场各个领域的需求都会增加，以重建库存。” Ben Sabbagh Bros董事兼前ICA主席Clement Sabbagh 称，拥有中等至顶级颜色的优质红宝石、蓝宝石和祖母绿在 2023年大受欢迎，今年应该会维持高需求。 他补充：“帕拉伊巴碧玺也备受青睐，价格并因优质宝石 供应有限而攀升。其他大热宝石包括尖晶石、欧泊、沙弗莱 石、圣玛利亚海蓝宝石等。” Cody和Sabbagh都认为，中国市场在2023年缓慢复苏 后，将于2024年重振辉煌。 Sabbagh表示，中国市场虽然需时适应疫情后的宝石价 格，但预计买家快将恢复采购。 Cody更指出，女性自购占中国彩色宝石市场近80%，窥 见其崭新机遇。他透露：“订婚戒指和首饰礼品为该国的传 统消费种类，但如今女性自购珠宝在市场上独占鳌头，是一 个非常独特的现象。” 在线销售是彩宝行业的另一个发展途径。Cody指出，电 商销售量不断增长，对推动需求发挥了重要作用，尤其是在 中国市场。 “小红书和微博上的销量惊人，堪称宝石行业的重要 销售渠道，也是我近年来看到的最火红的趋势之一。”他说。 提高产能 部分彩色宝石的开采产量预计也会增加，从而缓解供应 紧张状况，减少对价格造成的上行压力。 富丽宝石是一家专营橄榄石的垂直整合企业，首席营销 官兼执行董事Pia Tonna表示，该公司计划在今年开展采矿 业务。她透露：“我们预计在2024年第三季开始将产品推向 市场。业务将进入加速期，矿山在满载产能的情况下，目标 产量将占全球橄榄石供应量的64.5%。” 彩宝开采商Gemfields的首席执行官Sean Gilbertson表 示，继2023年业务表现稳健及价格走势强劲，来年发展同样 看俏，但将稍逊于2022年的“卓越”水平。 他说：“除非出现新冠疫情等黑天鹅事件，以及侵略战 争等地缘政治动盪，否则市场在2024年应相对维持稳定。” Sabbagh在矿业观察到的一项趋势，也有可能缓解供应 限制。他透露：“越来越多垂直整合公司开始提供‘从矿山到 市场’的服务。业内也正进行更多招标会。不少经销商都前 往巴西矿场采购宝石，然后在迪拜或曼谷进行招标。” 消费者期望 近来，具有社会意识的消费者对可持续发展日益关注， 彩宝行业也开始回应这方面的诉求。 Cody认为，要达致彻底的透明度，是行业面临的最大挑 战之一。他指出，大约80%的彩色宝石是由偏远地区的手工 采矿者生产的，因此要从矿山到市场实现百分百透明度是 非常困难的。 宝石价格、供应问题、责任采购和新一代消费者崛 起，都是后疫情时代影响彩宝行业的重大因素。 随着市场走出新冠疫情的阴霾，对彩色宝石 趋之若鹜，令需求处于史上最高水平。 需求强劲加上供应中断，导致热门彩宝价格在2022年下 半年以来呈指数级增长，并持续到2023年。尽管市场对价格 飙涨犹豫不决，但宝石制造商和经销商仍然坚守价格水平。 全球贸易展览会在2023年陆续复办之际，价格高企导致 交易放缓，买家大多针对现有订单谨慎采购，增加库存并非 主要目的。然而，到了2023年底，市场开始在不确定的经济 和地缘政治环境中稳定下来，预料2024年市况会明朗。 曼谷宝石商United Color Stones Co Ltd (UCS)的执行总 监SAAli表示，市场从2023年10月起开始有放缓迹象。他指 出：“红、蓝宝石的需求仍然高企，但海蓝宝石、锆石和坦桑 石等市场从2023年10月到12月稍见缓和。业务表现预测，从 2024年第一季开始将再次走强。” “We could perhaps create compelling collaterals on the real journey of our goods. There are beautiful stories every step of the way that need to be celebrated and conveyed to younger generations. Social media is a great asset in this respect,” Cody said. Small but effective steps can likewise be undertaken at the retail level to engage consumers and get them excited about the product, Hughes remarked. Shining laser pointers on rubies to show their radiance would fascinate consumers and help reveal that this feature of rubies sparked the development of the first laser pens, said Hughes. Getting customers to hold a coloured gemstone in one hand and a piece of glass in the other to feel the difference is another worthwhile exercise. Letting customers view the stone through a microscope at the store or having an in-store gemmologist explain colour-change qualities would likewise build excitement around coloured gems. New market conditions and consumer expectations have prompted a shift in the way business is done postpandemic. Ensuring sustainable growth and development of the coloured gemstone sector requires industry-wide commitment and effort, a journey that has already begun.
FOCUS 焦点 GEMSWORLD | 14 | 2024 此次CIBJO大会以彩色宝石责任采购为主题，科罗拉多 矿业学院(Colorado School of Mines)的Jenna White透露， 非洲主要矿区的大多数采矿公司，都希望以公平的价格出 售宝石，而不是接受捐献。期望学员在短期训练后达到国际 标准也是不切实际的，学徒制度始终是训练切割技能的最 理想模式。 新一代消费者 培养年轻消费者的需求，是彩宝市场的另一个考验，但 同时也衍生重大机遇。 Cody说：“获取新一代奢侈品买家的认同是最大的挑战。 业者必须对准年轻消费者群，致力建立并维持强大信心。” Lotus Gemology创办人、宝石学家兼作家Richard W. Hughes表示，除了推行责任采购和可持续发展举措外，创造 崭新的宝石故事将有助为消费者建立情感共鸣。 他说：“Lotus Gemology透过敍述宝石的故事，为这些奇 妙瑰宝赋予人性化的一面。业界不能只关注数字和技术细 节，应该多加展现每颗宝石的非凡美态。” Cody承认，故事敍述应当成为营销的重要环节。“人们只 会记得宝石的故事，不会记得实际资料和数字。彩色宝石拥 有数百万年的历史，每件都是独一无二的。我们应该为宝石 注入浪漫情感，并视作艺术品来推销。” 对Sabbagh来说，加强宣传和教育将有助为年轻一代创 建彩色宝石文化。Cody补充说，这点与建立消费者信心息 息相关。 要实现这一目标，便需要全面公开宝石的处理方式、遵 守道德准则、清晰描述宝石从矿山到市场的整个过程，以及 当地社群和其他方面如何受惠。 “我们或许可以在宝石旅程中的每一步塑造精彩故事， 并传达给年轻一代。在这方面而言，社交媒体是相当有价值 的资产。”Cody说。 Hughes透露，零售店同样可以采取有效的小策略来吸 引消费者，让他们对商品产生好感。 其中一个方法是以雷射笔照射红宝石，以显示其耀眼光 芒。除了令消费者深深着迷，也让他们了解到红宝石雷射正 是开发第一支雷射笔的原因。零售商亦可让顾客一手拿着 彩色宝石，另一手拿着一块玻璃，感受两者的差异。他补充 说，顾客如果可以在店里透过显微镜观察宝石，或是由驻店 宝石学家解释色彩的变化，同样可以激发消费者对宝石的 兴趣。 市场环境和消费者期望的转变，促使业界在疫情后开展 崭新业务形式。要确保行业达到可持续增长和发展，需要所 有业者群策群力——这趟精彩旅程已经正式开始！ 与此同时，该行业在地球上造成的破坏和碳足迹其实微 乎其微，而且一直支持多个社区的生计。“我们必须将外界 对彩宝行业的关注，重新转移到造成气候变化的真正原因， 以及社会需要切实面对的问题。”他又指出，世界上1%的能 源其实都消耗在手机上。 追本溯源 不过，该行业也致力应对产地溯源的关注。国际有色宝 石鉴定所(ICA Gem Lab)在其原产地和鉴定报告中纳入了原 产地证明追踪编码，使用区块链技术为每颗宝石赋予数字 身分，并从原产地到最终目的地建立可追溯旅程。 此外，古宝琳宝石鉴定所执行总监Daniel Nyfeler表示， 截至2023年9月，其原产地证明区块链已记录了700多家公 司约800万颗彩色宝石的资料。其祖母绿亲子鉴定技术将可 追溯的纳米颗粒嵌入原石晶体中，应用于30%以上的高端祖 母绿年产量。 Nyfeler称：“尽管原产地证明区块链可供免费使用，但中 游供应商或许尚未完全理解和接受业内的溯源举措，或未 完全感受到品牌客户对可追溯商品所施加的压力。再者，珠 宝品牌可能也不了解市场上可追溯宝石的数目。” 区块链平台也并非大公司专属。Nyfeler以马达加斯加一 个小型采矿社区为例，工匠将彩宝废料抛光成珠子，然后出售 给游客。他解释道：“其商品价值可能很低，但每一件都在区块 链上留存纪录。只需要一部智能手机、拍照并输入资料即可註 册。完成后，这颗宝石在区块链上就拥有数字双胞胎。” Nyfeler承认，要达到完全透明和可追溯性需要一点时 间。但由于技术已经可供应用，因此可以加快实行，满足品 牌客户对可追溯商品的要求。 “观乎区块链上储存了超过800万颗宝石，前景相当乐 观。儘管彩宝行业的价值链複杂而分散，但仍得到自下而上 的努力来实现更大的可追溯性。”他说。 责任实践 Gemfields的Gilbertson则建议下游企业专注于“原产矿 区”而非“原产国”，从而提高产品的可追溯性。 国际珠宝首饰联合会(CIBJO)在2023年10月举行疫后 第一场大会，他在会上分享了莫桑比克银行的数据，表明 Gemfields推出红宝石拍卖之前，市场上的红宝石通常是走 私得来或价值申报不足。他说：“在出口时设定价格是错误 之举，并使非洲损失了数十亿美元收入。”
INSIGHT 精辟洞见 GEMSWORLD | 16 | 2024 The enduring allure of high-end gems alongside rising consumer awareness and education on gem origins, characteristics and certifications are likely to fuel steady market demand in 2024 onwards. Perennial favourites rubies, sapphires and emeralds, which are already enjoying a strong following in the trade, will continue to lead the growth, according to Color Jewels Inc CEO Ashish Dangayach. “These are the best-performing gems for us,” he noted. “Nowadays, origin and certification are keys to making a sale. People are on the lookout for Burmese rubies, specifically from Mogok, as well as Kashmir, Burmese and Sri Lankan sapphires. Meanwhile, Colombian emeralds remain highly sought after.” Color Jewels’ top markets are Asia and Europe. Its buyers favour coloured gemstones of 8 carats to 20 carats while the most requested cuts for rubies and sapphires are antique, cushion, oval and traditional; and emerald cut for emeralds, added Dangayach. Investment gems Luxury rubies, sapphires and emeralds are easier to sell as they speak for themselves in terms of beauty, quality and investment value. These gems, however, have become harder to come by due to dwindling supply in Colombia and Myanmar (formerly Burma), where celebrated gemstone mines are located. Meanwhile, prices are up 50 per cent to 100 per cent from pre-Covid levels, signalling solid buyer interest in coloured gems. Take, for instance, a top-range Burmese sapphire of 5 carats to 10 carats. Dangayach said that a gem of this quality sells for US$15,000 to US$20,000 a carat as of end-2023 compared to US$10,000 per carat three or four years earlier. This upward trend in prices is expected to continue amid rising demand and limited stocks. The company official explained, “There are more people wanting to own and invest in these coveted gems compared to 10 to 15 years prior, so demand outweighs what is in the market now.” Color Jewels Inc offers an expansive selection of premium-quality coloured gemstones that consistently captivate buyers worldwide amid supply constraints and macroeconomic woes. 在供应紧张和宏观经济困境的氛围下，Color Jewels Inc仍为市场提供种类 繁多的优质彩色宝石，引来环球买家的艳羡目光。 winning favour in global markets Luxury gems 奢华宝石广受环球市场热捧 Sapphire ring, polished emerald and ruby, and ruby ring by Color Jewels Inc Color Jewels Inc的蓝宝石戒指丶祖母绿和红宝石及红宝石戒指
INSIGHT 精辟洞见 GEMSWORLD | 17 | 2024 There are more people wanting to own and invest in these coveted gems compared to 10 to 15 years prior, so demand outweighs what is in the market now. Emerald, ruby and sapphire from Color Jewels Inc Color Jewels Inc的祖母绿、红宝石和蓝宝石 Perceptive buyers The level of consumer education is also unprecedented, according to Dangayach. Even end-buyers now have greater knowledge of gemstone origins, certifications and enhancements, among others, helping them make informed purchasing decisions. This was not the case around a decade ago. “Customers have become more educated about important factors that, in the past, only people in the trade know. Overall, the market has become more discerning,” the company official added. Moving forward, buyer interest in premium gems could further strengthen in 2024, with pink and Padparadscha sapphires, Paraiba tourmalines from Mozambique and Mahenge spinels as prospective superstars in the trade. Major jewellery brands and designers are already using these in their latest collections, which only adds to the gems’ exceptional charm and saleability, noted Dangayach. Global challenges, however, could hinder consumer spending throughout the first half of 2024. According to him, people are spending less, and the luxury sector – the gem and jewellery sector included – is bearing the brunt of such austerity measures. The trade is not seeing the same level of demand as it did pre-Covid, he added. “It will take time for the market to stabilise. People tend to spend more on luxury items when the economy is doing well, so we just need to wait for the global economy to improve and the luxury sector will follow suit," he said. "The good news is coloured gems will continue to be viable investment alternatives during challenging times.” 宝石，特别是来自抹谷的红宝石。而克什米尔、缅甸和斯里 兰卡的蓝宝石也令人趋之若鹜。与此同时，哥伦比亚祖母绿 仍然备受追捧。” Dangayach补充说，买家偏爱8克拉至20克拉的宝石。另 外，红宝石和蓝宝石的大热切割款式包括古典式、枕形、椭 圆形和传统式；而祖母绿则以祖母绿式切割最受欢迎。 投资级宝石 璀璨艳丽的红宝石、蓝宝石和祖母绿相对容易销售，因 为它们的美丽、品质和投资价值不言而喻。不过，由于哥伦 比亚和缅甸等著名宝石矿区的供应量不断减少，这些宝石 日益难求。 同时，它们的价格更比疫情前上升了50%到100%，这表 明买家对彩色宝石有着浓厚的兴趣。Dangayach说，以5至 10克拉的顶级缅甸蓝宝石为例，这种品质的宝石截止2023 年底每克拉售价为15,000至20,000美元，而三四年前每克拉 售价为10,000美元。 在需求上升和库存有限的情况下，预计价格上涨的趋势 将持续。Dangayach解释说：“与10至15年前相比，现在有更 多人想拥有和投资这些令人垂涎的宝石，因此需求遠超过 市场上的供應。” 精明的买家 Dangayach认为，消费者的知识已达到前所未有的水平。 即使是终端买家也更了解宝石的产地、认证和处理方法等 知识，因这有助他们做出明智的购买决定。与大约10年前的 情况大相径庭。 他补充道：“客户对过去只有业内人士才知道的重要因 素，今天均有更深入的了解。总体而言，市场变得更加挑剔。” 展望未来，买家在2024年对优质宝石的兴趣可能会进一 步增强，粉红蓝宝石和帕帕拉恰蓝宝石、莫桑比克帕拉伊巴 碧玺和马亨格尖晶石将成为业界的明日之星。 Dangayach指出，主要珠宝品牌和设计师已经在其最新 系列中使用了这些宝石，为宝石的非凡魅力和适销性锦上 添花。 然而，环球挑战可能会拖累2024年上半年的消费支出。 他认为，人们的消费正在减少，而奢侈品行业（包括宝石和 珠宝）在这种紧缩措施中首当其冲。该行业的需求水平与疫 情前不可同日而语。 Dangayach解释道：“市场需要时间才能稳定下来。经济 形势好的时候，人们往往倾向花更多钱购买奢侈品，所以我 们只需要等待环球经济好转，奢侈品行业也会随之回暖。好 消息是，在充满挑战的时期，彩色宝石仍将会是可行的投资 选择。” 高级宝石永恒不变的吸引力，加上消费者对宝石产 地、特性和认证的知识不断提高，这些因素可能 推高2024年及往后稳定的市场需求。 Color Jewels Inc的主要市场是亚洲和欧洲，其首席执行 官Ashish Dangayach表示，红宝石、蓝宝石和祖母绿拥有忠 诚的追随者。它们在业界人气旺盛，将会继续引领增长。 Dangayach指出：“对我们来说，这些都是表现最好的宝 石。目前，产地和认证是销售的关键。人们都在寻找缅甸红
GEMSWORLD | 18 | 2024 INSIGHT 精辟洞见 Kagem emerald mine in Zambia 赞比亚卡棋穆祖母绿矿 Gemfields’ continued success hinges upon a multipronged strategy spanning core operational pillars: Auctions, collaborations and corporate responsibility. The year 2023 marked glittering achievements in these respective categories, with the company eyeing sustained growth in 2024, fuelled by solid consumer demand and improving economic fundamentals. Robust business Gemfields’ auction arm performed strongly in 2023, thanks to steady sales. Its final auction of the year, which offered mixed-quality rough rubies from Mozambique, generated revenues of US$69.5 million, signalling the ongoing strength of the ruby market. Held from November 20 to December 5, 2023, it featured rubies mined by Montepuez Ruby Mining Limitada (MRM). Gemfields has a 75 per cent stake in MRM while its Mozambican partner, Mwiriti Limitada, owns the other 25 per cent. All 97 lots, or a total of 239,591 carats, sold at the auction, with an average realised per-carat price of US$290.02. This brings total revenues from MRM’s 21 auctions since June 2014 to US$1.05 billion. Gemfields’ Managing Director of Product & Sales Adrian Banks said ruby prices at Gemfields auctions grew steadily in recent years. He added, “This auction has shown that demand and pricing for rough rubies is decidedly healthy. Gemfields’ total auction revenue for 2023 stands at US$242 million, the second highest in our history. This auction also takes Gemfields past the milestone of US$2 billion in cumulative emerald and ruby auction sales.” Building alliances Gemfields also partnered with several jewellers to further highlight the exceptional allure of Zambian emeralds and Mozambican rubies. The Sandy Leong x Gemfields Serenity Collection, a collaboration with the New York-based jewellery designer Ruby and emerald specialist Gemfields fortifies its multifaceted approach to achieving growth, encompassing solid business strategies, sustainability initiatives and dynamic partnerships. 红宝石和祖母绿专家 Gemfields大力推动业务策略、可持续发展和合作伙伴关系，从多方面促进增长。 in ruby and emerald trade Radiant prospects 红宝石与祖母绿前景辉煌 Emerald twist cocktail ring from the Sandy Leong x Gemfields Collection; rough Zambian emeralds from Gemfields; Kundal earrings with Mozambican rubies and pearls from The Line x Gemfields ‘Songbird’ Collection. Sandy Leong x Gemfields系列的Twist祖母绿鸡尾酒戒指; Gemfields的赞比亚祖母绿原石; The Line x Gemfields ‘Songbird’系列的Kundal耳环，采用莫桑比克红宝石和珍珠制作
GEMSWORLD | 19 | 2024 INSIGHT 精辟洞见 Rough Mozambican rubies from Gemfields Gemfields的莫桑比克红宝石原石 and sustainability advocate, shines the spotlight on Zambian emeralds interspersed with pearls in stunning, asymmetrical jewellery pieces, while the House of Meraki x Gemfields J’aime Collection offers arresting designs with a focus on Zambian emeralds. Both collections were launched in 2022. Meanwhile, the Line x Gemfields Songbird Collection, which reimagines emeralds and rubies in contemporary, Indian-inspired motifs; and IVY New York x Gemfields, featuring statement pieces showcasing the natural beauty and versatility of rubies and emeralds, were released in 2023. Gemfields’ Marketing & Communications Director Emily Dungey explained, “Brand collaborations provide us with an opportunity to share guidance on buying coloured gemstones and styling them, which helps build consumer confidence. It is through these pillars of education and visibility that we grow desire for coloured gemstones and support our business objectives.” Road to sustainability According to Dungey, Gemfields effectively improved and polished its corporate responsibility programme in 2023. “Our strategic approach has been updated and a structured framework implemented,” shared Dungey. “We completed several community projects in Zambia and Mozambique throughout the year. Meanwhile, our charitable arm, Gemfields Foundation, saw the inauguration of a solarpowered computer laboratory at Kapila primary school in Zambia, in addition to funding construction projects at two primary schools in Madagascar.” Gleaming opportunities Gemfields recorded strong financial performance from its rough ruby and emerald business in 2023. Moving forward, Dungey said vibrant consumer interest and growth in the coloured gemstone sector is likely to continue. “Production of high-quality gems is never guaranteed and has not been as abundant through 2023 as previous years,” noted Dungey. “This is not a cause for concern, but a reminder that nature is no supermarket: Each gemstone found is a gift from the earth to be treasured. Emeralds are said to symbolise hope, growth and renewal, and it is with this mindset that we look to 2024.” Gemfields的持续成功要诀，在于对准拍卖、协作和 企业责任等核心范畴实施多方面策略。该公司在 2023年成绩斐然，并计划在消费者需求和经济表 现改善的推动下，于2024年实现持续增长。 强劲业务增长 Gemfields在2023年的拍卖成绩亮丽，年底最后一次拍 卖呈献莫桑比克的混合品质红宝石原石，收入达6,950万美 元，证明红宝石市场持续走强。 该拍卖会在2023年11月20日至12月5日举行，其红宝 石拍品产自Montepuez Ruby Mining Limitada (MRM) 。 Gemfields拥有MRM的75%股份，其余25%则由莫桑比克合 作伙伴Mwiriti Limitada持有。 总重239,591克拉的97项拍品均已售出，每克拉平均成 交价为290.02美元。连同这次在内，MRM自2014年6月以来 共举行了21场拍卖会，总收入达到10.5亿美元。 Gemfields产品与销售执行总监Adrian Banks表示， 近年来Gemfields拍卖会上的红宝石价格持续上扬。他补 充说：“这次拍卖显示红宝石原石的需求和价格保持稳 健。Gemfields的2023年拍卖总收入为2.42亿美元，达到本公 司史上第二高水平，更令祖母绿和红宝石的累计成交额突 破20亿美元的里程碑。” 建立协作关系 Gemfields也与多家珠宝商合作，进一步展现赞比亚祖 母绿和莫桑比克红宝石的非凡魅力。 该公司与提倡可持续发展的纽约珠宝设计师Sandy Leong合作，推出Sandy Leong x Gemfields Serenity系列， 多款赞比亚祖母绿首饰呈不对称形态，并以珍珠点缀，效果 瑰丽夺目。House of Meraki x Gemfields J'aime系列则以赞 比亚祖母绿为焦点，设计引人注目。这两个系列均于2022 年面世。 至于2023年发布的两个系列中，Line x Gemfields Songbird系列为祖母绿和红宝石首饰赋予当代印度风，而 IVY New York x Gemfields的大型作品，亦展示了红宝石和 祖母绿的自然美和设计上的可能性。 Gemfields行销与传播总监Emily Dungey解释说：“品牌 合作令我们能够与消费者分享选购彩色宝石和造型上的可 能性，有助建立其信心。我们通过教育工作和提升知名度， 令市场对彩宝更加渴求，从而达到我们的业务目标。” 可持续之路 Dungey表示，Gemfields在2023年有效地改进和完善其 企业责任计划。 她分享道：“我们更新了策略方针并确立结构化框架。本 公司在2023年于赞比亚和莫桑比克实践了多个社区计划。 与此同时，我们的慈善机构Gemfields基金会为赞比亚的 Kapila学校设立太阳能电脑实验室，并资助马达加斯加两所 小学的建设项目。” 把握闪亮机遇 Gemfields的红宝石和祖母绿原石业务，在2023年取得 了强劲成绩。Dungey表示，消费者对彩色宝石兴趣甚殷，相 信行业会继续蓬勃发展。 “优质宝石的产量是个永远的未知数，2023年的数字也 逊于前几年。”Dungey指出。“这并非令人担忧的原因，但是 我们要记住，大自然不是超市：每一颗宝石都是地球赠予我 们的礼物，值得好好珍惜。祖母绿象征希望、成长和革新，我 们怀着这样的信念，迈步踏进2024年。”
GEMSWORLD | 20 | 2024 INSIGHT 精辟洞见 Headquartered in Hong Kong, Miranda Group Co Ltd has built a solid reputation in the trade for its expansive array of layouts featuring exquisitely cut and matched gems. At the heart of these are Paraiba tourmaline, aquamarine, morganite, rubellite, and pink and green tourmaline, to name a few. The company caters to a wide range of customers comprising leading international jewellery brands and designers, primarily in the US. According to Miranda Group Director Cam Li, demand for high-quality gems from the US, Switzerland, Italy, Taiwan, Hong Kong, China and India was robust in 2023. In particular, the coloured gemstone specialist has made significant strides in India, Japan and Taiwan. It is also training its sights on other promising markets such as Malaysia, Vietnam and China, noted Li. “A dedicated team is being assembled to handle our expansion efforts in Asia. We will also actively participate in international fairs, leveraging these platforms to showcase our offerings and explore new business opportunities,” Li remarked. New collections The colour blue is well-loved in the market, leading to steady demand for Paraiba tourmaline, aquamarine and other blue gems, revealed the company official. “Blue stones possess a remarkable ability to shine on their own or sparkle in harmony with other colours. Thus, they are always highly sought after” she explained. Li also cited consistent requests for pink and green gemstones. Notably, pink and mint green tourmaline stones are moving fast while demand for other gems such as morganite is likewise on the rise. “Designers as well as mid-range to top jewellery brands are consistently seeking new, good-quality gems, attractive colour combinations as well as good to excellent cuts and polish, to produce exciting collections. This has been instrumental to driving demand throughout 2023,” Li explained. As demand for coloured gemstones soars in Asia, Miranda Group is strategically capitalising on this thriving market with its latest offerings such as special cuts and spectacular layouts. 彩色宝石的需 求在亚洲市场激增，美宏达集团乘着此趋势，以其最新的产品，包括独特的切割 和精美的成套宝石，战略性地从这一蓬勃发展的市场中获利。 shine in Asian markets Coloured gemstones 彩色宝石在亚洲市场大展风采 Carnival Collection layouts of 130.07 carats of Paraiba tourmalines; and 20 aquamarines and tanzanites weighing a total of 380.77 carats, from Miranda Group Co Ltd 美宏达集团的Carnival系列，包括重130.07克拉的帕拉伊巴碧玺成套宝石，以及20颗海蓝宝石和坦桑石成套宝石， 共重380.77克拉
GEMSWORLD | 21 | 2024 INSIGHT 精辟洞见 A vertically integrated company, Miranda Group sources raw materials from its own and associate mines in Brazil, Mozambique and Nigeria; processes these at its Hong Kong workshop under the supervision of a Brazilian master gemstone cutter; and then polishes the stones at its factory in China. All polished gemstones are then returned to Hong Kong for international distribution. According to Li, the company launched eight new collections in 2023 to meet growing demand from Europe and Asia. The collections – Paraiba, Amazon, Blue Planet, Ocean, Carnival, Barbie, Fire and Rainbow – consist of more than 300 layouts of fine-quality, carefully selected and matched coloured gemstones. The leading collection, Carnival, offers meticulously arranged layouts of diverse gemstones with matching colour tones in uniform or complementary cuts and shapes. These gems, including morganite, kunzite, aquamarine, tanzanite stones and Paraiba tourmalines, come in various gradations, sizes and colours, providing a diverse array of options to suit individual preferences. “Our customers appreciate our efforts to assist them in creating cohesive collections. With our meticulously curated layouts, they can produce an entire set or line without worrying about matching colours and cuts,” Li said. Besides its signature layouts, Miranda Group introduced special boxes consisting of single pieces, matched pairs and sets of Paraiba tourmalines from its own mines in the fourth quarter of 2023. The mines Li described the gemstone market in 2023 as “conservative,” owing to global uncertainties such as rising inflation, natural disasters, lacklustre consumption and geopolitical issues. “Despite these challenges, our sales have been increasing steadily as the market continues to seek good-quality gemstones. By sourcing directly from our own mines and associate mines, we were able to meet market demand for premium goods,” she said. Looking ahead, the company is advancing its mining projects to ensure a sustainable supply of high-quality gemstones and further solidify its position in the market. It also plans to implement its Brazil Paraiba Batalha mine project this year while a full-scale production of Paraiba tourmalines in Mozambique is expected to likewise commence in 2024. “Paraiba tourmalines from Brazil have become highly sought after in the market in recent years, but low production has created constraints in meeting demand. We are thus excited about the impending production boost from our new mine projects,” Li said. 美宏达集团的总部设于中国香港，以精美切割和匹 配的彩色宝石，编制出各式各样的成套宝石，在 业界享有盛誉。其核心产品包括帕拉依巴碧玺、 海蓝宝石、摩根石、红碧玺、粉红碧玺和绿碧玺等等。该集团 的客户范围多元化，当中包括国际领先的珠宝品牌和设计 师，客户主要来自美国。据美宏达集团总经理Cam Li称，美 国、瑞士、意大利、台湾地区、中国香港、中国内地，以及印度 在2023年对高品质宝石的需求强劲。 目前，该公司在印度、日本和台湾地区取得了长足进步。 美宏达集团还将目光投向马来西亚、越南和中国内地等其 他前景光明的市场。 Li說∶“我们正在组建一支专门的团队，负责亚洲市场的 拓展工作。我们还将积极参加国际展览会，利用这些平台展 示我们的产品，发掘新机遇。” 全新系列 该公司管理层指蓝色深受人们喜爱，所以市场对帕拉伊 巴碧玺、海蓝宝石和其他蓝色宝石的需求稳定。 她解释说：“蓝色宝石具有令人惊叹的魅力，既能独当一 面，也能与其他颜色的宝石和谐搭配。因此，它们一直备受 追捧。” Li还指出，市场对粉红色和绿色宝石的需求持续，尤其以 粉红碧玺和薄荷绿碧玺最为畅销，而其他宝石如摩根石的 需求也同样节节上升。 Li解释道∶“设计师、中端到顶级珠宝品牌一直在寻找新 的、优质的宝石，富有吸引力的颜色组合，以及良好至出色 的切割和抛光，以制作出令人兴奋的首饰系列。这对推动整 个2023年的需求发挥了关键作用。” 作为一家垂直整合的公司，美宏达集团从其位于巴西、 莫桑比克和尼日利亚的自有矿场和联营矿场采购原材料； 及后在巴西宝石切割大师的监督下，在其香港地区的工场 进行加工；然后在内地的工厂进行宝石抛光工序。所有经过 抛光的宝石会运回中国香港进行国际分销。 Li表示，该集团在2023年推出了八个新系列，以满足欧 洲和亚洲日益增长的需求。这些系列名为Paraiba、Amazon 、 Blue Planet、Ocean、Carnival、Barbie、Fire和Rainbow，提供 300多套由精心挑选和搭配的优质彩色宝石组成的成套宝石。 领衔系列Carnival将各种色调相匹配、切割和形状一致 或互补的彩色宝石，精心编排成成套宝石。这些宝石包括摩 根石、紫锂辉石、海蓝宝石、坦桑石和帕拉依巴碧玺，并有不 同等级、大小和颜色，以供客户根据个人喜好选择。 Li说∶“我们的客户非常欣赏我们付出的努力，为其打造 具一致性的宝石系列。他们可以利用成套宝石制作一整套 首饰，甚至整个系列，而不必担心颜色和切割的匹配问题。” 除了标志性的成套宝石，美宏达集团还在2023年第四季 度推出了由单颗、成对和成套帕拉伊巴碧玺组成的特别礼 盒。这些帕拉伊巴碧玺均来自其自家矿山。 矿山发展 由于通胀、自然灾害、消费疲软和地缘政治问题等环球 不确定因素，Li形容2023年的宝石市场为“保守"。 她说：“尽管面临这些挑战，我们的销售额仍然稳步上扬， 因为市场持续寻求优质宝石。通过直接从我们自己的矿场和 联营矿场采购，我们能够满足市场对优质产品的需要。” 展望未来，公司正在推进其采矿项目，以确保高品质宝 石的可持续供应，并进一步巩固其市场地位。 该公司计划在今年实施巴西帕拉伊巴巴塔拉(Paraiba Batalha)矿项目，而莫桑比克帕拉伊巴碧玺的全面生产，预 计也将于2024年开始。Li说∶“近年来，来自巴西的帕拉伊 巴碧玺在市场上备受追捧，但由于产量低，难以满足需求。 而新矿山项目将提升产量，我们為此感到兴奋。”
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