GEMSWORLD | 42 | 2023 INSIGHT from US$3,000, up from US$2,000 at launch, to per-carat prices that rival that of Vietnam’s Luc Yen cobalt spinels. Completely untreated, the gems are certified by SSEF, GRS GemResearch Swisslab AG and ICA GemLab. “With the new Mahenge source, there is a lot of potential for cobalt spinels to be used in high jewellery,” Barber said. Case in point is Singapore jewellery design house MADLY, which features three cobalt spinels in its Interlace collection and has created individual pieces for its clients. Green option Peridot meanwhile is the primary focus of Fuli Gemstones. The company’s Yiqisong Nanshan mining project located in the foothills of the Changbai Mountains in China is slated to commence commercial production in 2024, with a ramp up over six years to full capacity production of 300,000 tonnes of ore per year from 2030. “Fuli Gemstones will be a dominant supplier of peridots in the global market once our mine reaches full capacity,” said Pia Tonna, the company’s chief marketing officer. “The sample testing during our mining exploration stage has suggested our mine can produce peridot in a variety of sizes. This will enable us to provide a consistent supply for the full spectrum of jewellery, from single, large gemstones for high jewellery suites through to stones below 1 carat for smaller calibrated goods.” According toTonna, Fuli Gemstones has a fully integrated business model, from mining and sorting to grading, cutting and polishing all the way to sales and marketing. It does not deal in rough. Cut and polished peridots, peridot gem dots and rough peridot gemstones will be its principal products. Fuli’s stones range from pure green to yellowish green, greenish yellow, brownish green and brown. “Peridot is a truly natural gemstone. Unlike many gems sold today, heat treatments are not typically associated with peridot. The beauty admired in gem-quality peridot comes naturally. Typically, the only enhancements performed on peridot come from fashioning a cut stone and integrating it into a jewellery design,” she explained. Till commercial production kicks in, the company is drumming up interest in peridot and positioning it as a fresh and vibrant gem. “For the last few years, we have been educating the industry and end-consumers on the history and background of peridot via our social media channels, designer collaborations and sponsorships. We are seeing highly respected, independent jewellers using peridot in their creations, for example, Taffin, Verdura and Hemmerle, as well as some young, up-and-coming designers,” said Tonna. Fuli Gemstones also works with established and upcoming jewellery designers on pieces featuring stones from its initial sampling to raise awareness of peridots. Recent projects include collaborating with gemstone cutter Mark Nuell on bespoke cuts with over 160 facets and working with young designer Akansha Sethi on peridot and pearl ear cuffs that were unveiled at GemGeneve in November 2022. On top of participating in key trade shows, Fuli Gemstones will have its own online platform, where the gemstone trade will be able to access its inventory. It is also developing a traceability programme for its peridots. Greater issues Aside from commercial success and sufficient supply, gemstone companies count ethical mining and sustainability among their foremost objectives. Customer interest in wider 14.49-carat rough peridot from Fuli Gemstones 富丽宝石的14.49克拉橄榄石原石 Peridot earrings by Annoushka x Fuli Gemstones Annoushka与富丽宝石合作推出的橄榄石耳环 5.96-carat peridot from Fuli Gemstones 富丽宝石的5.96克拉橄榄石
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